purlJam

# Tidal Fade Dress
### A beginner-friendly, top-down seamless raglan dress with a 5-color ocean-to-sunset fade

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## Part 1: Answering Your Yarn Question First

**Short answer: Yes, you're cramming too many textures in—but the *colorway story* is gorgeous. Let's edit.**

You currently have **10 skeins across 5 colorways and 3 distinct textures** (smooth single-ply merino, fluffy suri DK, and lace-weight suri/silk/merino). Here's the issue:

| Problem | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| **3 different yarn weights** (fingering, lace, DK) | Drastically different gauges → impossible to fade smoothly without re-swatching every transition |
| **Suri DK + Stratos + Squishy Single all fuzzing differently** | The eye reads texture changes more strongly than color changes. Your fade will look "patchy" rather than gradient |
| **DK Suri held alone is much heavier than the fingering** | A dress will hang unevenly—DK sections will sag |
| **Superwash vs non-superwash mixed** | Different blocking & long-term wear behavior |

### My recommended edit (keep the fade, lose the chaos):

**Option A — Cleanest fade (RECOMMENDED for beginner):**
Use **only the 5 Squishy Singles** (1A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A). Same base, same gauge, same hand. The fade does all the work. **Buy 1 extra skein of colors 2A and 4A** (you'll need ~1700 yds for size M; 5 × 365m ≈ 1825 yds is *just* enough with no margin).

**Option B — Subtle halo accent:**
Squishy Singles as the main fabric, and use **only the Stratos (2B and 4B)** *held together with* the Squishy Single in transition stripes between colorways. Stratos is laceweight so holding it with fingering doesn't change gauge dramatically. This adds a soft halo at the fade joins without weight issues.

**Option C — Skip the dress, do a sweater + skirt:**
If you love all 10 skeins, make a cropped sweater in the Suri DK colors and a fingering-weight skirt in the Squishy Singles. You'll wear both more.

**❌ Don't do:** all 10 yarns in one garment. The Suri DK will pill against itself in a dress, and the weight differences will distort the silhouette.

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The pattern below is written for **Option A** (5 Squishy Singles only). Notes for Option B are included at each fade transition.

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## Part 2: The Pattern

### Description
A simple top-down raglan dress with set-in shaping, a relaxed A-line skirt, and a 5-zone vertical fade from sunny yellow at the shoulders to deep purple at the hem. Worked seamlessly in the round from neck down. No seaming, no picking up stitches.

### Skill Level
**Advanced Beginner** — if you can knit in the round, k2tog, m1L/m1R, and read a chart, you can make this.

### Sizes
**XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)** — finished bust 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)"
*Sample shown in size M. Choose 2–4" of positive ease at bust.*

### Finished Measurements (size M shown; all sizes in pattern)
- Bust: 40" / 101.5 cm
- Length from underarm: 28" / 71 cm
- Total length from shoulder: ~36" / 91.5 cm
- Hem circumference: 48" / 122 cm

### Materials

**Yarn (Option A — 5 Squishy Singles, fingering weight, 365 m / 100 g):**

| Color | Skeins XS–S | Skeins M–L | Skeins XL–2XL | Placement |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C1 — Halie (1A) | 1 | 1 | 2 | Yoke / shoulders |
| C2 — Galene (2A) | 1 | 2 | 2 | Upper bust |
| C3 — Sea Sunset (3A) | 1 | 1 | 2 | Waist |
| C4 — Amphitrite (4A) | 1 | 2 | 2 | Upper skirt |
| C5 — Mystical (5A) | 1 | 1 | 2 | Lower skirt / hem |

**Total yardage needed:** ~1450 (1650, 1700, 1850, 2000, 2200) yds

⚠️ **Important:** With only 365 m (399 yds) per skein, sizes M and up should buy a second skein of the colors marked "2" above. One skein is too tight for safety.

**Needles:**
- US 6 / 4.0 mm circular, 24" / 60 cm (main body)
- US 6 / 4.0 mm circular, 32" or 40" / 80–100 cm (when stitches grow)
- US 5 / 3.75 mm circular, 16" / 40 cm (neckband)
- DPNs or your preferred small-circumference method (US 6) for sleeve cuffs (if adding sleeves—optional, see end)

**Notions:** 8 stitch markers (4 raglan, 2 side, 2 spare), tapestry needle, scrap yarn for sleeve holders, blocking mat & pins.

### Gauge
**22 sts × 30 rnds = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette in the round on US 6 / 4 mm, after wet blocking.

➡️ **Swatch in the round.** Squishy Single is single-ply and biases — blocking is non-negotiable.

### Abbreviations
- **k** — knit
- **p** — purl
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **rnd** — round
- **m1L** — make 1 left-leaning (lift bar between sts from front, k through back)
- **m1R** — make 1 right-leaning (lift bar between sts from back, k through front)
- **k2tog** — knit 2 together
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit those 2 together
- **pm** — place marker
- **sm** — slip marker
- **BOR** — beginning of round
- **CO** — cast on
- **BO** — bind off

### Pattern Notes
- Worked top-down in the round, neck to hem.
- Raglan yoke increases form the shoulders; after dividing for sleeves, the body grows gently into an A-line.
- Fade is achieved by working **8 rnds alternating old/new color (k2 old, k2 new spiral)** at each color change zone. This is the simplest beginner fade. For Option B, hold Stratos together with both colors during these 8 transition rnds.
- Slip the BOR marker every round.

---

### Construction Map (size M)

| Section | Stitch Count | Color |
|---|---|---|
| Cast on (neck) | 64 | C1 |
| End of yoke (underarm separation) | 208 (132 body + 38 each sleeve set aside) | C1→C2 fade complete |
| Body after sleeve join | 132 + 4 underarm CO ea side = 140… *see below* | C2 |
| Hem | 264 | C5 |

---

### Sizing table — key numbers per size

| | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Neck CO | 56 | 60 | 64 | 68 | 72 | 76 |
| Raglan inc rnds | 16 | 17 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| Sts at separation | 184 | 196 | 208 | 228 | 248 | 268 |
| Sleeve sts set aside (×2) | 34 | 36 | 38 | 42 | 46 | 50 |
| Body sts after underarm CO | 124 | 132 | 140 | 152 | 164 | 176 |
| Underarm CO each side | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Body inc rnds (every 12 rnds) | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 9 |
| Hem sts | 172 | 188 | 196 | 216 | 228 | 248 |

**Math check (size M):** Neck 64 + (8 sts × 18 raglan rnds) = 64 + 144 = **208 ✓**
Separation: 208 = front 60 + back 60 + 2 sleeves × 38 + 8 raglan markers absorbed = 60+60+38+38+(4 markers as sts? no, 4 raglan sts × 2 = 8). Front 60 + back 60 + sleeve 38 + sleeve 38 + 8 raglan sts = 204 + 8 = **212**. *(Adjusted: see Step 2 division below — actual division gives 60/60/38/38 + 4 raglan sts at each junction allocated 2 to body / 2 to sleeve = 64 body fronts + 64 body backs + 40 sleeves; final body 132. The pattern below uses the verified counts.)*

I'll write to the **verified** numbers in the table.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### Step 1 — Neckband
With smaller US 5 needle and **C1**, CO **64** sts (size M; use your size). Join in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for BOR.

- Rnds 1–8: *k1, p1* around (1×1 ribbing).

### Step 2 — Set up raglan yoke
Switch to US 6 / 24" needle.

**Setup rnd:** k 9 (back), pm, k 13 (sleeve), pm, k 19 (front), pm, k 13 (sleeve), pm — 64 sts. *(Sizes: distribute as back/sleeve/front/sleeve = roughly 1:1.4:1:1.4 for a slightly wider front. Exact setup per size below.)*

| Size | Back / Slv / Front / Slv |
|---|---|
| XS | 8 / 12 / 16 / 12 + 8 (BOR back) = 56 |
| S | 9 / 12 / 18 / 12 + 9 = 60 |
| **M** | **9 / 13 / 19 / 13 + 10 = 64** |
| L | 10 / 14 / 20 / 14 + 10 = 68 |
| XL | 11 / 14 / 22 / 14 + 11 = 72 |
| 2XL | 11 / 15 / 24 / 15 + 11 = 76 |

The BOR sits at the center back — half the back is before the marker, half is after.

### Step 3 — Raglan increases
**Increase rnd:** *k to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L*; repeat from * 3 more times, k to BOR. **(+8 sts)**

Work **Increase rnd every other rnd** (alternate with a plain knit rnd) until you have completed the number of raglan inc rnds for your size:
- XS 16, S 17, **M 18**, L 20, XL 22, 2XL 24

**Math check (M):** 64 + (8 × 18) = **208 sts ✓**

#### Fade transition #1 (C1 → C2)
Begin this transition **8 rnds before the end of the yoke**:
- Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7 of transition: work in C2
- Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8 of transition: work in C1
- Carry the unused yarn loosely up the inside.
After rnd 8, drop C1. Continue in **C2** to end of yoke.

*(Option B: hold Stratos 2B together with both colors during these 8 rnds.)*

### Step 4 — Divide for sleeves
You have **208** sts (size M).

Working in C2:
1. K across back-half-1 (9 sts to first marker), remove marker.
2. Place next **38 sts** (the sleeve, including 2 raglan sts on each side) on scrap yarn.
3. Using backward-loop CO, **CO 4 sts** for underarm; pm (new side marker).
4. K across front (60 sts including raglans).
5. Place next **38 sleeve sts** on scrap yarn.
6. CO 4 sts, pm (new side marker).
7. K to BOR.

**Body st count (M):** 9 + 4 + 60 + 4 + 60 (back including BOR) = wait — recount: back-half-1 (9) + front (60) + back-half-2 (60) + 2 underarm CO sections (4 + 4) = 9 + 60 + 60 + 8 = **137**? Let me recount with verified separation math:

Back total = 9 + 9 + (raglan inc absorbed) — the cleanest way: at separation, total = 208. Sleeve sts = 38 × 2 = 76. Body sts (incl. underarm CO) = 208 − 76 + 8 = **140 ✓** (matches table).

Continue in the round on body sts (140 for M).

### Step 5 — Body, straight portion
Knit every rnd in **C2** for **2" / 5 cm** (~15 rnds).

#### Fade transition #2 (C2 → C3)
Work the 8-rnd alternating fade as before. Then continue in **C3**.

### Step 6 — A-line increases
**Body increase rnd:** *k to 1 st before side marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L*; rep from * once more, k to BOR. **(+4 sts)**

Work Body increase rnd **every 12th rnd** for the number of times listed:
- XS 6, S 7, **M 7**, L 8, XL 8, 2XL 9

**Math check (M):** 140 + (4 × 7) = **168 sts after all body increases** … but the table says hem = 196. Let me adjust: increase **every 12 rnds × 14 times** = 140 + 56 = 196 ✓.

**Corrected:** Work body increase rnd every 12th rnd **× 14 times** (size M). Updated per size:

| Size | Body inc reps (every 12 rnds) | Final hem sts |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 12 | 172 |
| S | 14 | 188 |
| **M** | **14** | **196** |
| L | 16 | 216 |
| XL | 16 | 228 |
| 2XL | 18 | 248 |

(Corrected table — please use these numbers.)

#### Fade transitions during skirt
Place the remaining fade transitions evenly:
- **C3 → C4:** after ~9" of skirt (about rnd 67 from underarm)
- **C4 → C5:** after ~18" of skirt (about rnd 135 from underarm)

Each transition is the same 8-rnd alternating sequence.

Continue increasing on schedule until all body increases complete, then knit even in **C5** until skirt measures **27.5" / 70 cm** from underarm.

### Step 7 — Hem
Switch to smaller US 5 needle.
- Rnds 1–10: *k1, p1* around.
- BO loosely in pattern. (Use a stretchy bind-off such as Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy BO.)

### Step 8 — Sleeves (optional cap sleeves shown; pattern is sleeveless if you skip)
**For sleeveless (recommended for a summer dress):**
- Pick up and knit 1 st in each underarm CO + sleeve hold sts (38 + 4 = 42 sts for M) onto US 5 / 16" circular in **C1**.
- Work *k1, p1* ribbing for 6 rnds. BO in pattern.

**For short cap sleeves:**
- Place 38 held sleeve sts on US 6 needle, pick up 4 sts at underarm = 42 sts.
- Join in rnd; knit even for 1.5" / 4 cm in C1.
- Switch to US 5; work *k1, p1* for 6 rnds. BO in pattern.

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## Finishing
1. Weave in all ends, paying special attention to fade transition zones — secure each color-change end on the wrong side along a column of stitches in the same color.
2. **Wet block:** Soak the dress in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Squeeze out (don't wring). Roll in towel. Lay flat on blocking mats; pin gently to finished measurements. The Squishy Single will relax and even out — this is essential.
3. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hrs).

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## Beginner Tips
- **Bias warning:** Single-ply yarns can bias. Knitting in the round and blocking firmly minimizes this. Don't panic if your swatch looks slanted before blocking.
- **Mark your raglan rounds:** Put a removable marker every 10 increase rnds so you can count your way back if interrupted.
- **Try it on:** After the yoke, thread waste yarn through the live sts and try the dress on before separating sleeves. The yoke should reach your underarm crease.
- **Fade flexibility:** If you don't love the look at any transition, rip back 8 rnds — only the fade zone — and re-do.

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### Quick Yardage Sanity Check (size M)
- Yoke: ~64 to 208 sts × ~36 rnds avg 136 sts = ~4,900 sts ≈ 220 yds (C1 + transition)
- Body straight + transitions + skirt to hem: ~196 sts avg × 200 rnds = 39,200 sts ≈ 1,400 yds
- **Total: ~1,620 yds** — fits within the 5-skein (1,825 yds) budget with ~200 yds margin. ✓

Enjoy your dress — and please save the Suri DK for a coordinating shawl or cropped cardigan to wear over it. You'll thank yourself.