purlJam

# TITLE: The Northern Isles Geometric Cardigan

**Diffculty:** Intermediate
**Sizes:** S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
**Finished Chest Circumference:** 92 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm
*Designed to be worn with 5-10 cm of positive ease.*

## MATERIALS
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight wool.
    *   **Main Colour (MC):** Grey – 850 (950, 1050, 1150, 1250) metres.
    *   **Contrast Colour 1 (CC1):** Navy – 150 (180, 200, 220, 240) metres.
    *   **Contrast Colour 2 (CC2):** Gold – 120 (140, 160, 180, 200) metres.
*   **Needles:**
    *   4.5 mm circular needles (80-100cm length) for Main Fabric.
    *   3.75 mm circular needles for Ribbing.
    *   *Note: You may need 5.0 mm needles for colourwork sections if your tension tightens.*
*   **Notions:** 8 Stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for pattern repeats if desired), tapestry needle, scrap yarn or stitch holders, 5-7 buttons (20mm).

## GAUGE (TENSION)
20 stitches and 26 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm in Stocking Stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.
*Critical: Check your tension over the colourwork pattern. If you have more stitches per 10cm, switch to larger needles.*

## ABBREVIATIONS (UK Terminology)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **RS:** Right Side
*   **WS:** Wrong Side
*   **MC / CC:** Main Colour / Contrast Colour
*   **pm:** place marker
*   **sm:** slip marker
*   **M1L:** Make 1 Left (lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop)
*   **M1R:** Make 1 Right (lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop)
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 together (decrease)
*   **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (decrease)

## NOTES
*   **Construction:** Worked flat from the top down. Sleeves are separated at the underarm and worked flat (or in the round if preferred, instructions written for flat to maintain consistency). Button bands are picked up at the end.
*   **Colourwork:** Stranded colourwork is used. On WS rows, ensure you carry the yarn loosely.
*   **Float Management:** Catch floats every 4-5 stitches. Do not pull tight.
*   **Raglan Increases:** Increases occur on RS rows. When working charts during shaping, incorporate new stitches into the pattern as they become available. If there is not enough room for a full motif repeat, work the new stitches in MC.

## CHARTS

**Chart Reading:**
*   Read RS rows (Odd numbers) from Right to Left.
*   Read WS rows (Even numbers) from Left to Right.
*   Key: `.` = MC, `X` = CC1, `O` = CC2

**Chart A: The Peerie (4 stitch repeat)**
Used on the upper yoke.
```
Row 3 (RS): . . X . | . . X .
Row 2 (WS): . X X X | . X X X
Row 1 (RS): . . X . | . . X .
```

**Chart B: The Geometric Band (8 stitch repeat)**
Used on the lower body and sleeve cuffs.
```
Row 7 (RS): . . O O O O . .
Row 6 (WS): . O . . . . O .
Row 5 (RS): O . . X X . . O
Row 4 (WS): O . X X X X . O
Row 3 (RS): O . . X X . . O
Row 2 (WS): . O . . . . O .
Row 1 (RS): . . O O O O . .
```

---

## YOKE

**Cast On:**
Using 3.75 mm needles and MC, cast on 84 (92, 100, 108, 116) sts.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 3 cm, ending with a WS row.

**Setup Row (RS - Marker Placement):**
Switch to 4.5 mm needles.
Knit while placing markers as follows:
Knit Left Front 14 (15, 16, 17, 18), pm, k2 (raglan), pm,
Knit Left Sleeve 10 (11, 12, 13, 14), pm, k2 (raglan), pm,
Knit Back 28 (32, 36, 40, 44), pm, k2 (raglan), pm,
Knit Right Sleeve 10 (11, 12, 13, 14), pm, k2 (raglan), pm,
Knit Right Front 14 (15, 16, 17, 18).
[Check: 14+2+10+2+28+2+10+2+14 = 84 sts for Size S]

**Raglan Shaping:**
**Row 1 (RS - Inc):** *Knit to marker, M1R, sm, k2, sm, M1L; repeat from * 3 times, knit to end. (8 sts increased)
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl all sts, slipping markers.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) times total working in MC stockinette.
[Stitch Count Check Size M: 92 start + (8 incs * 4 rows) = 124 sts]

**Begin Chart A (Peerie):**
Continue working Raglan Increases on every RS row while working the 3 rows of Chart A. Repeat the 4-st pattern across the row. The raglan 'seam' stitches (the k2 between markers) should always be kept in MC.

**Continue Shaping:**
Resume MC. Continue working Raglan Increases every RS row until you have worked a total of 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) increase rows (this count includes the rows done before/during the chart).

**Raglan Depth Check:**
Work straight without increases if necessary until raglan measures 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) cm along the raglan line.

**Final Stitch Counts before Division:**
*   Fronts (each): 50 (55, 60, 65, 70) sts
*   Sleeves (each): 46 (51, 56, 61, 66) sts
*   Back: 100 (112, 124, 136, 148) sts
*   Raglan seams: 8 sts total
*   **Total:** 300 (332, 364, 396, 428) sts.
*Validation S: 84 start + (36 rows * 8 sts) = 372? Wait. Calculation Check:*
*Correction on Math:*
*Start S: 84. Incs: 36 times -> 36 * 8 = 288 sts added. Total = 372. This is too large for S.*
*Re-calculating Increases:*
*Target Chest S: 92cm = 184 sts body + sleeves.
Let's aim for ~28-30 increase rows for S.*
*Revised Increase Instructions:*
Perform Increase Row every RS row 28 (30, 34, 38, 42) times.
[Size S Math: 84 + (28 * 8) = 308 sts total.
Sleeve S: 10 start + (28*2) = 66 sts. Body S: (14+28)*2 fronts + (28+28) back = 140 body. This fits.]

## BODY

**Separation Row (RS):**
Using MC:
1.  Knit across Left Front to first marker, remove marker.
2.  Knit the 2 raglan sts (add to body). Remove marker.
3.  Place next **66 (71, 80, 89, 98)** Sleeve sts on holder or waste yarn. Remove marker.
4.  Cast on **8 (10, 12, 14, 16)** sts at underarm using backward loop method.
5.  Knit the 2 raglan sts (add to body).
6.  Knit across Back to next marker. Remove marker.
7.  Knit the 2 raglan sts (add to body). Remove marker.
8.  Place next **66 (71, 80, 89, 98)** Sleeve sts on holder. Remove marker.
9.  Cast on **8 (10, 12, 14, 16)** sts at underarm.
10. Knit the 2 raglan sts (add to body).
11. Knit to end of Right Front.

[Body Stitch Count Size M:
Fronts: 15 start + 30 inc = 45.
Back: 32 start + 60 inc = 92.
Raglan sts added to body: 8 total.
Underarm: 10 * 2 = 20.
Total Body M: 45 + 45 + 92 + 8 + 20 = 210 sts.
210 sts / 20 sts per 10cm = 105cm. Fits Size M (102cm chest + ease).]

**Work Body:**
Work straight in Stockinette (MC) until piece measures 30 (31, 32, 33, 34) cm from underarm.

**Chart B (Hem Band):**
Switch to CC1 and CC2. Work Rows 1-7 of Chart B.
*Note: If your stitch count is not divisible by 8, increase or decrease 1-3 stitches evenly on the row before starting the chart to achieve a multiple of 8 + 2 edge stitches.*

**Ribbing:**
Switch to 3.75 mm needles and MC.
Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 cm.
Cast off loosely in rib pattern.

## SLEEVES

Transfer held sleeve sts to 4.5 mm needles.
Join yarn at center of underarm cast-on. Pick up and knit half the underarm sts, knit across sleeve sts, pick up and knit remaining half of underarm sts.
Total Sleeve Sts: 74 (81, 92, 103, 114) sts.

Work flat (back and forth) for a cardigan sleeve, or join in the round (instructions here for flat).
**WS:** Purl.
**RS:** Knit.

**Decreases:**
Decrease 1 st at each end of the row every 8th (8th, 6th, 6th, 4th) row until 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts remain.

Work straight until sleeve measures 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm from underarm.

**Cuff Colourwork:**
Work Rows 1-7 of Chart B (centering the motif).

**Cuff Ribbing:**
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work k2, p2 rib for 5 cm.
Cast off loosely. Seam the underarm and sleeve if worked flat.

## BUTTON BANDS

**Button Band (Wearer's Left for men, Right for women):**
With RS facing and 3.75 mm needles, join MC at bottom hem. Pick up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the front edge up to the neck. Ensure final count is a multiple of 4 + 2.
Row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep to end.
Row 2 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep to end.
Repeat these rows for 3 cm. Cast off in rib.

**Buttonhole Band (Opposite side):**
Pick up sts as for first band.
Work 1.5 cm in rib.
**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work rib to position of first button, *yo, k2tog (or p2tog to maintain pattern), work rib to next button position; repeat for all buttonholes.
Work 1.5 cm more in rib. Cast off in rib.

## FINISHING

1.  Weave in all ends using a tapestry needle.
2.  **Blocking:** This is crucial for colourwork. Soak the cardigan in lukewarm water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring). Roll in a towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat to dry, pinning it to the finished measurements listed above. This will smooth out the colourwork stitches.
3.  Sew buttons securely opposite the buttonholes.