purlJam

# TITLE: The "Ultima" Oversized Drop-Shoulder Pullover

### MACHINE_SETUP
*   **Machine Type**: Bulky Gauge (9mm).
*   **Bed Configuration**: Main Bed and Ribber required for 1x1 ribbing.
*   **Cast-on Method**: 1x1 Rib cast-on with wire and large weights. Use waste yarn and ravel cord for the body panels if a ribber is not available (then mock-rib or hand-latch).
*   **Tension Dial Suggestions**: 
    - Ribbing: T4/T4
    - Main Fabric: T8
*   **Tools Required**: 1x2 and 1x3 transfer tools, latch tool, cast-on comb, large and small weights, ravel cord, tapestry needle.

### MATERIALS
*   **Yarn**: 800g (approx. 1400m) Worsted weight wool or wool blend.
*   **Contrast Yarn**: Small amount of waste yarn in a contrasting color.
*   **Notions**: Ravel cord, measuring tape.

### GAUGE_AND_TENSION
*   **Tension**: T8 (Main Bed).
*   **Stitch Gauge**: 14 stitches = 10cm (4").
*   **Row Gauge**: 20 rows = 10cm (4").
*   **Measurement Note**: Knit a 40x40 swatch. Wash and lay flat to dry. Measure the center 10cm to ensure accurate RC calculations.

### SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES
*   **Size**: Oversized (One Size Fits M-XL).
*   **Finished Width**: 66cm (26").
*   **Finished Length**: 62cm (24.5").
*   **Sleeve Length**: 45cm (17.5").

### BACK_PANEL
1.  **Hem**: Set machine for 1x1 rib. Arrange 92 needles in 1x1 formation (L46 to R46). 
    - RC000: Cast on in 1x1 rib, T4/T4. 
    - RC000-015: Knit 15 rows of ribbing. 
2.  **Transition**: Transfer all ribber stitches to the main bed. 
    - RC015: Change to T8. Reset Row Counter to 000.
3.  **Body**: 
    - RC000-114: Knit straight. COL at RC114.
    - *Note*: Hang side weights every 30 rows to ensure even tension.
4.  **Shoulder & Neck Shaping**: 
    - RC115: At the end of the row, use Hold (H) position.
    - RC116-124: To shape the back neck, put the center 24 needles (L12 to R12) into Hold.
    - Shape shoulders by putting 11 needles into Hold at the carriage side for 3 passes (33 sts per shoulder).
    - RC124: Knit 1 row across all needles (or use waste yarn) and bind off shoulders and neck stitches loosely.

### FRONT_PANEL
1.  **Hem**: Repeat as for Back Panel (92 needles, 1x1 rib for 15 rows).
2.  **Body**: 
    - RC000: Transfer to Main Bed, T8. 
    - RC000-100: Knit straight.
3.  **Neckline Shaping**:
    - RC100: COL. To create the crew neck, put the center 14 needles (L7 to R7) into Hold.
    - Work the left side first (L46 to L8). Put the right side needles (R8 to R46) into Hold.
    - Decrease at the neck edge (center) 1 stitch every 2 rows 5 times (using the 2-prong tool for a fully fashioned look).
    - RC110: 32 stitches remain for the shoulder.
    - RC110-124: Knit straight.
4.  **Shoulder**: At RC124, bind off shoulder stitches. 
5.  **Right Side**: Return needles (R8 to R46) to Work. Mirror the shaping for the right side.

### SLEEVES (Knit 2)
1.  **Hem**: Arrange 40 needles in 1x1 formation (L20 to R20).
    - RC000-015: Knit 15 rows in 1x1 rib, T4/T4.
2.  **Transition**: Transfer to Main Bed. Reset RC to 000. Change to T8.
3.  **Increases**:
    - The sleeve increases from 40 sts to 76 sts to create the wide "bell" effect.
    - RC005-090: Increase 1 stitch at both ends every 5th row (Total 18 increase rows).
    - *Calculation Check*: 40 + (18 * 2) = 76 stitches.
4.  **Finish**:
    - RC090: 76 stitches total (L38 to R38).
    - RC090-100: Knit straight.
    - RC100: Bind off all stitches loosely using the latch tool.

### NECKBAND
1.  **Preparation**: Join the right shoulder using a mattress stitch or by rehanging on the machine and binding off.
2.  **Rehang**: With the right side facing you, pick up approximately 70-74 stitches around the neckline onto the machine needles.
3.  **Ribbing**: 
    - RC000-010: Knit 10 rows in 1x1 rib (T4/T4).
4.  **Bind-off**: Use the latch-tool bind-off method around the ribber and main bed needles to ensure the neck is stretchy enough to pass over the head.

### FINISHING
1.  **Steaming**: Remove panels from the machine. Steam each panel lightly, focusing on the edges to prevent curling. **Do not** steam acrylic yarn heavily; use a light touch.
2.  **Assembly**:
    - Join the left shoulder.
    - Mark the center of the sleeve head. Align with the shoulder seam. Pin and sew the sleeve to the body.
    - Sew the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous mattress stitch line.
3.  **Blocking**: Place on a sweater board or flat surface. Pin to final dimensions (66cm wide) and allow to set.

### ABBREVIATIONS
*   **RC**: Row Counter
*   **COL**: Carriage on Left
*   **COR**: Carriage on Right
*   **T**: Tension Dial Setting
*   **Sts**: Stitches
*   **Hold (H)**: Carriage setting where needles in E/D position do not knit.
*   **1x1 Rib**: One needle on the main bed, one needle on the ribber.