purlJam

# Top-Down Raglan Cardigan (Worsted Weight)
**Difficulty:** Beginner
**Sizes:** 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) 9 (10)

## 1. MACHINE SETUP
- **Machine:** Bulky (9mm) or Mid-gauge (6.5mm).
- **Yarn:** Worsted Weight.
- **Tension:** 
    - Main Tension: T6 (adjust for gauge of 5 sts / 7 rows per inch).
    - Ribbing Tension: T4.
- **Tools:** 1-prong, 2-prong, and 3-prong transfer tools, latch tool, waste yarn, ravel cord, weights, cast-on comb.

## 2. NECK CAST-ON & SETUP
Arrange needles for the neck cast-on. We are working flat.
**Needle Arrangement (Size 1 example):**
Left Front: 1 needle
Raglan: 1 needle
Sleeve: 8 needles
Raglan: 1 needle
Back: 22 needles
Raglan: 1 needle
Sleeve: 8 needles
Raglan: 1 needle
Right Front: 1 needle
**Total: 44 needles in work.**

1. Using **Waste Yarn**, cast on (44) 50 (52) 56 (58) 58 (64) 64 (64) 66 needles.
2. Knit 6 rows. End **COR**.
3. Knit 1 row with **Ravel Cord**. 
4. Switch to **Main Yarn**. Set RC to 000. Set Tension to Main Tension (T6).
5. **RC000 COL**: Knit 1 row (Vrang/WS in hand knitting).

## 3. YOKE SHAPING (RAGLAN & FRONT)
You will increase for the raglan every **RS (Right Side)** row and increase at the front edges every row as specified.

**Raglan Increase Method (FFI):** At each of the 4 raglan markers (the single raglan stitches), move the adjacent stitches outward by 1 needle using your transfer tool. Pick up the "heel" (the loop below) of the adjacent stitch to fill the empty needle.

**Front Edge Increase Method:** Bring 1 empty needle into work at the carriage side at the end of the row.

- **RC001 COR (RS):** 
    - Perform 8 Raglan Increases (one on each side of the 4 raglan needles).
    - Knit across to Left.
    - At the end of the row (Left side), bring 1 new needle into work.
    - **Total Stitches Increased: 9.**
- **RC002 COL (WS):**
    - Knit across to Right.
    - At the end of the row (Right side), bring 1 new needle into work.
    - **Total Stitches Increased: 1.**
- **RC003 - RC012:** Repeat rows 1-2. 
    - *Technical Check:* You are adding 10 stitches per 2 rows (8 raglan + 2 front).
- **RC013 COR:** Perform 8 Raglan Increases. At the end of the row, bring **2 needles** into work.
- **RC014 COL:** Knit across. At the end of the row, bring **2 needles** into work.
    - **Stitch Count Check (Size 1):** 116 stitches on bed.

**Center Front Extension:**
To complete the neck shaping, we will add the "underlap" stitches.
- **RC015 COR:** Knit across. At the end of the row, cast on (4) 6 (8) 8 (10) 10 (12) 12 (12) 14 new needles using the e-wrap method.
- **RC016 COL:** Knit across.
    - **Stitch Count Check (Size 1):** (128) 136 (140) 144 (148) 148 (156) 156 (156) 160 stitches.

**Continue Yoke:**
- Continue knitting and performing **8 Raglan Increases every other row** (on RC 17, 19, 21, etc.).
- Stop when the raglan line measures approx. 8" (20 cm) or until you reach the desired armhole depth.
- **Final Stitch Count Example (Size 1):** Approx 210-230 stitches.

## 4. SEPARATING BODY AND SLEEVES
- **COL**: Knit across the Left Front needles. 
- Using a tapestry needle and waste yarn, remove the Sleeve needles from the machine.
- Cast on 4-6 stitches for the underarm (e-wrap).
- Knit across the Back needles.
- Remove the Right Sleeve needles onto waste yarn.
- Cast on 4-6 stitches for the underarm (e-wrap).
- Knit across the Right Front needles.

## 5. THE BODY
- Work even in Stockinette on the remaining needles (Fronts + Back) until the body measures 12" (30 cm) or 2" (5 cm) less than desired total length.
- **Hem:** 
    - Decrease tension to T4. 
    - Work 1x1 rib by dropping every second stitch and latching up, or rehang for a folded hem.
    - Knit 14 rows.
    - **Bind off:** Latch tool bind off loosely.

## 6. SLEEVES (Work twice)
- Return the held sleeve stitches to the needles.
- **RC000**: Main Yarn, T6.
- Knit flat, decreasing 1 stitch at each end every 8th row (using 2-prong tool to maintain clean edges).
- Continue until sleeve measures 16" (40 cm) from underarm.
- **Cuff:** Work 1x1 rib for 2" (5 cm).
- **Bind off:** Latch tool bind off.

## 7. FINISHING
- **Button Bands:** Pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the front edges. Work 1" (2.5 cm) in 1x1 rib. On the right side (for women) or left side (for men), create buttonholes by transferring a stitch and creating a yarn over.
- **Neckband:** Pick up stitches around the neckline (including the waste yarn area). Work 1" (2.5 cm) in 1x1 rib.
- **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch to sew sleeve seams and underarm gaps.
- **Blocking:** Remove waste yarn. Steam lightly to set stitches, avoiding the ribbing to maintain elasticity.

**Math Validation (Size 1):**
- Start: 44
- Rows 1-14 Increases: +16 (Front) + 56 (Raglan) = 116
- Join: +12 = 128
- Total Raglan Lines: 128 total at RC016. Standard worsted yoke usually finishes around 220-240 sts for a 38" chest.