purlJam

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# TOP-DOWN SEAMLESS RAGLAN PULLOVER

### An Intermediate Knitting Pattern

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## IMPORTANT NOTE: YOUR 4MM NEEDLE SWATCH

You have swatched with **4mm needles** using worsted weight yarn. This is slightly finer than the typical needle size recommended for worsted weight (usually 4.5–5mm). This is perfectly fine — the tension you achieve is what matters, not the needle size. **This entire pattern is written using the tension obtained from your 4mm needle swatch.** Do not substitute a larger needle unless your tension does not match.

> **Always knit a swatch before beginning. Your tension governs every stitch count in this pattern.**

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (also labelled as Aran weight in some UK ranges), approximately 10 ply. Look for ~200 m / 100 g.

**Yardage / Meterage Required:**

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Metres | 1,150 | 1,350 | 1,600 | 1,850 | 2,100 |
| Yards | 1,260 | 1,480 | 1,750 | 2,025 | 2,300 |

**Needles:**
- 4mm (US 6) circular needle, 80cm (32") length — for body and yoke
- 4mm (US 6) circular needle, 40cm (16") length — for neckband and sleeves
- 4mm (US 6) double-pointed needles (DPNs) or 80cm circular for magic loop — for sleeves

**Notions:**
- 4 locking stitch markers (distinct colour or style — these are your raglan markers)
- 2 plain stitch markers (for beginning-of-round)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeves)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

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## TENSION / GAUGE

**22 stitches & 30 rows = 10cm (4") in stocking stitch (stockinette), worked in the round, on 4mm needles — after blocking.**

> **This tension is the foundation of all calculations in this pattern.** If your tension differs, your finished measurements will differ. A difference of even 1 stitch per 10cm across a 94cm (37") bust results in a significant change in fit. Measure your swatch carefully after washing and blocking it as you intend to care for the finished sweater.

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## SIZING

This pattern is written for **five sizes**: Small (S), Medium (M), Large (L), Extra Large (XL), 2 Extra Large (2XL).

**Choose your size based on your actual bust/chest measurement, then add your preferred ease:**
- Standard / relaxed fit: 6–8cm (2.5–3") positive ease ← *this pattern is written for this ease*
- Fitted: 0–2cm ease — go down a size
- Oversized: 10cm+ ease — go up a size

### Size Chart

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **To fit bust (cm)** | 86–91 | 96–101 | 106–112 | 117–122 | 127–132 |
| **To fit bust (inches)** | 34–36" | 38–40" | 42–44" | 46–48" | 50–52" |
| **Finished bust (cm)** | 94 | 104 | 114 | 124 | 134 |
| **Finished bust (inches)** | 37" | 41" | 45" | 49" | 53" |
| **Body length, underarm to hem (cm)** | 40 | 41 | 43 | 44 | 45 |
| **Body length, underarm to hem (inches)** | 15.5" | 16" | 17" | 17.5" | 17.75" |
| **Sleeve length, underarm to cuff (cm)** | 46 | 46 | 47 | 47 | 48 |
| **Sleeve length, underarm to cuff (inches)** | 18" | 18" | 18.5" | 18.5" | 19" |
| **Yoke depth — approximate (cm)** | 22 | 25 | 29 | 33 | 37 |
| **Yoke depth — approximate (inches)** | 8.5" | 10" | 11.5" | 13" | 14.5" |
| **Upper arm circumference (cm)** | 40 | 45 | 50 | 55 | 60 |
| **Upper arm circumference (inches)** | 15.75" | 17.75" | 19.75" | 21.75" | 23.5" |

> **Note on yoke depth:** In top-down raglan construction, larger sizes naturally have a deeper yoke — more increase rounds are required to build enough stitches for a larger body. This is how raglan geometry works. The yoke depth figures above are the vertical measurement from the neckline to the underarm. Larger sizes (XL, 2XL) will find this measurement on the deeper side; this is correct and provides a comfortable, relaxed fit. Because this sweater is worked top-down, **you can try it on at any stage** and separate the sleeves earlier if preferred.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **BOR** | Beginning of round |
| **CO** | Cast on |
| **Dec** | Decrease(s) / Decreasing |
| **k** | Knit |
| **k2tog** | Knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **M1L** | Make 1 Left: insert left needle from front to back under the bar between stitches, knit through the back loop |
| **M1R** | Make 1 Right: insert left needle from back to front under the bar between stitches, knit through the front loop |
| **p** | Purl |
| **PM** | Place marker |
| **rem** | Remaining |
| **Rep** | Repeat |
| **RM** | Remove marker |
| **RS** | Right side |
| **Rnd(s)** | Round(s) |
| **sl** | Slip |
| **sl m** | Slip marker |
| **ssk** | Slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, insert left needle through front of both slipped sts, knit together (left-leaning decrease) |
| **st(s)** | Stitch(es) |
| **St st** | Stocking stitch (knit every round when working in the round) |
| **WS** | Wrong side |
| **yo** | Yarn over |

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This sweater is worked **seamlessly from the top down**.

1. A neckband is worked flat briefly, then joined in the round.
2. Raglan increases are worked at 4 marked positions, adding 8 stitches every other round throughout the yoke.
3. When the yoke is complete, sleeve stitches are placed on holders, underarm stitches are cast on, and the body is worked in the round to the hem.
4. Sleeves are worked from the underarm down, with regular decreases, to the ribbed cuff.
5. No seaming is required.

**Raglan marker positions divide the stitches into four sections:**
- Back panel
- Left sleeve
- Front panel
- Right sleeve

**Increase round:** *M1L, slip raglan marker, M1R* at each of the 4 markers = 8 stitches increased per increase round.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND & CAST-ON

**All sizes: Cast on 88 stitches.**

Using your 40cm circular needle (or DPNs), CO 88 sts using a long-tail cast-on or your preferred stretchy cast-on method.

**Arrange stitches as follows**, placing locking markers (use a distinct colour or tag them A, B, C, D):

| Section | Stitches |
|---|---|
| Back | 32 sts |
| Raglan Marker A | Place marker |
| Right sleeve | 14 sts |
| Raglan Marker B | Place marker |
| Front | 28 sts |
| Raglan Marker C | Place marker |
| Left sleeve | 14 sts |
| Raglan Marker D | Place marker |
| **Total** | **88 sts** |

> **Stitch count check:** 32 + 14 + 28 + 14 = 88 stitches ✅

Place a BOR marker (different from raglan markers) and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

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### SECTION 2: NECKBAND

Work **1×1 rib** (k1, p1) for **8 rounds** (approx. 2.5cm / 1").

This creates a tidy crew neckband. If you prefer a deeper neckband or mock turtleneck, continue in rib for up to 20 rounds (approx. 6.5cm / 2.5"), then fold over and tack down on the inside, or simply leave it as a tall collar.

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### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

Switch to your 80cm circular needle as the work grows.

The yoke is worked in alternating rounds:

- **Increase Round (RS):** \*Knit to 1 st before raglan marker, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L; rep from \* 3 more times, knit to end of round. *(8 sts increased)*

  > *Note: Working an extra k1 before and after each marker creates a clean, visible raglan column — 1 knit stitch on each side of each marker. This is optional; you may omit the k1 columns and simply work M1L before the marker and M1R after if you prefer an invisible increase.*

- **Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**Work these two rounds alternately for the number of increase rounds shown for your size:**

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Number of increase rounds to work** | 33 | 38 | 44 | 49 | 55 |

> **Stitch count after completing all increase rounds (before sleeve separation):**
>
> | Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
> |---|---|---|---|---|---|
> | Back sts | 98 | 108 | 120 | 130 | 142 |
> | Front sts | 94 | 104 | 116 | 126 | 138 |
> | Each sleeve | 80 | 90 | 102 | 112 | 124 |
> | **Total sts** | **352** | **392** | **440** | **480** | **528** |
>
> **Verification:**
> - S: CO 88 + (33 × 8) = 88 + 264 = 352 ✅
> - M: 88 + (38 × 8) = 88 + 304 = 392 ✅
> - L: 88 + (44 × 8) = 88 + 352 = 440 ✅
> - XL: 88 + (49 × 8) = 88 + 392 = 480 ✅
> - 2XL: 88 + (55 × 8) = 88 + 440 = 528 ✅

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### SECTION 4: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

On the next round (a plain knit round), you will place each sleeve on a holder and cast on underarm stitches.

Work as follows:

1. Knit across **Back** stitches to Raglan Marker A.
2. **Remove Marker A.** Place the next **sleeve sts** (right sleeve) onto a stitch holder or length of waste yarn. Remove Marker B.
3. Using the **backward loop (e-wrap) method**, cast on **8 stitches** for the right underarm. PM (plain stitch marker) to mark the centre of the underarm cast-on — this is useful for sleeve pick-up later. *(Optional but recommended)*
4. Knit across **Front** stitches to Raglan Marker C.
5. **Remove Marker C.** Place the next **sleeve sts** (left sleeve) onto a holder. Remove Marker D.
6. Cast on **8 stitches** for the left underarm.
7. Knit to BOR marker.

> **Body stitch count after separation + underarm cast-on:**
>
> | Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
> |---|---|---|---|---|---|
> | Back | 98 | 108 | 120 | 130 | 142 |
> | Front | 94 | 104 | 116 | 126 | 138 |
> | Underarm (2 × 8) | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 | 16 |
> | **Total body sts** | **208** | **228** | **252** | **272** | **296** |
>
> **Verification against finished bust:**
> - S: 208 ÷ 22 × 10 = 94.5cm ≈ 94cm ✅
> - M: 228 ÷ 22 × 10 = 103.6cm ≈ 104cm ✅
> - L: 252 ÷ 22 × 10 = 114.5cm ≈ 114cm ✅
> - XL: 272 ÷ 22 × 10 = 123.6cm ≈ 124cm ✅
> - 2XL: 296 ÷ 22 × 10 = 134.5cm ≈ 134cm ✅

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### SECTION 5: BODY

The body is now worked in the round on all body stitches.

**Continue in stocking stitch** (knit every round) until the body measures the target length from the underarm to the start of the hem ribbing, **minus 5cm (2") for the ribbing**:

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Work body until (cm from underarm) | 35 | 36 | 38 | 39 | 40 |
| Work body until (inches from underarm) | 13.75" | 14.25" | 15" | 15.25" | 15.75" |

> Measure your work hanging freely, not stretched. The 5cm ribbing will add the remaining length and will have a slight draw-in due to the rib texture.

**Tip:** Try the sweater on as you go! This is one of the great advantages of top-down construction. Put the sts on a long piece of waste yarn or your cable and slip it over your shoulders to check fit and length.

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#### HEM RIBBING

Work **1×1 rib** (k1, p1) for **5cm (2")** — approximately **15 rounds**.

Cast off loosely using a stretchy cast-off, such as the **sewn cast-off** or **k1, p1, pass first stitch over** ribwise.

> **Important:** A tight cast-off at the hem will prevent the sweater from sitting properly. If your cast-offs tend to be tight, go up one or two needle sizes for the cast-off row only.

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### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Work one sleeve at a time. Both sleeves are identical.

**Step 1: Pick up stitches.**

Transfer one sleeve from the holder back onto the 40cm circular needle or DPNs. With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the centre of the underarm:

1. Pick up and knit **4 stitches** from the first half of the underarm cast-on.
2. Knit across all **sleeve sts** from the holder.
3. Pick up and knit **4 stitches** from the second half of the underarm cast-on.
4. PM and join to work in the round.

> **Sleeve stitch count after pick-up:**
>
> | Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
> |---|---|---|---|---|---|
> | Sleeve sts from holder | 80 | 90 | 102 | 112 | 124 |
> | Underarm pick-up (4+4) | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 |
> | **Total sleeve sts** | **88** | **98** | **110** | **120** | **132** |
>
> **Upper arm circumference:** 88÷22×10=40cm (S) ✅ / 98÷22×10=44.5cm (M) ✅ / 110÷22×10=50cm (L) ✅ / 120÷22×10=54.5cm (XL) ✅ / 132÷22×10=60cm (2XL) ✅

**Step 2: Work 2 plain rounds** to settle the pick-up round.

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**Step 3: Sleeve decreases.**

Work sleeve decreases on **Decrease Rounds** as follows, working evenly in stocking stitch between decrease rounds.

**Decrease Round:** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

Target: Decrease until **44 stitches** remain for the cuff (approx. 20cm / 8" cuff circumference — a standard fit cuff).

> *If you have narrow wrists, decrease to 40 sts. If you have wider wrists, stop at 48 sts.*

**Decrease schedule by size:**

| Size | Start sts | End sts | Total decs needed | Dec rnds | Work dec every… | Total dec rows | Remaining rows (plain) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 88 | 44 | 44 sts (22 dec rnds) | 22 | every 6th rnd | 132 | +6 plain = 138 rnds |
| M | 98 | 44 | 54 sts (27 dec rnds) | 27 | every 5th rnd | 135 | +3 plain = 138 rnds |
| L | 110 | 44 | 66 sts (33 dec rnds) | 33 | every 4th rnd | 132 | +9 plain = 141 rnds |
| XL | 120 | 44 | 76 sts (38 dec rnds) | 38 | every 4th rnd | 152 | adjust to length |
| 2XL | 132 | 44 | 88 sts (44 dec rnds) | 44 | every 3rd rnd | 132 | +9 plain = 141 rnds |

> **Sleeve length check:**
> - Target sleeve: 46cm (S/M) = 138 rounds at 30 rows/10cm ✅
> - 47cm (L) = 141 rounds ✅
> - 47cm (XL) = 141 rounds — work dec every 3rd round for last section if needed, or adjust plain rounds
> - 48cm (2XL) = 144 rounds — work 141 rounds + 3 extra plain at top ✅
>
> **Always measure your actual sleeve length rather than relying solely on round counts.** Sleeve length is highly personal. Try the sweater on and mark your preferred sleeve length before working the cuff ribbing.

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#### CUFF RIBBING

Work **1×1 rib** (k1, p1) on the remaining **44 stitches** for **7cm (2.75")** — approximately **21 rounds**.

Cast off loosely ribwise, as for the hem. A stretchy cast-off is essential for cuffs, which must stretch to pass over the hand.

**Repeat Section 6 for the second sleeve.**

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## FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle. Weave ends in at least two directions for security, especially at the underarm join.
2. **Seam the underarm gap** (if any): If a small hole has appeared where the sleeve sts meet the underarm pick-up, use the yarn tail to close it with a couple of neat stitches from the wrong side. This is a common occurrence and nothing to worry about.
3. **Block your sweater:** Wet blocking is strongly recommended. Submerge the sweater in cool water with a small amount of wool wash, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), lay flat on blocking mats, and pin to the finished measurements. Allow to dry completely — this can take 24–48 hours depending on fibre content.

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## OPTIONAL TECHNIQUES

### Short-Row Back Neck Shaping (Recommended for Better Fit)
For a more professional fit, especially noticeable in larger sizes, work short rows across the back before joining the round. This raises the back neck by approximately 1.5–2cm, which prevents the neckline from sliding forward in wear.

After the neckband, work as follows:
1. Knit across the Back sts, turn.
2. Slip 1, purl back across Back sts, turn.
3. Work a short row with a wrap-and-turn (W&T) or German short row method at each end of the back section.
4. On the following round, pick up wraps (if using W&T) and knit across, joining to continue in the round.
5. Then begin the raglan increase rounds as instructed.

This is optional but recommended — and is a lovely intermediate technique to learn.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

| Issue | Solution |
|---|---|
| Neckline is too tight | Use a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or German twisted). Go up one needle size for the CO only. |
| Holes at the underarm | Use yarn tail to close any gaps when finishing. |
| Raglan lines are twisted or messy | Check that you are working M1L and M1R in the correct direction. M1L lifts the bar from front to back; M1R lifts from back to front. |
| Sleeve is too wide at upper arm | Decrease a few extra sts in the first 5cm of sleeve. |
| Tension is different to pattern | Re-swatch. This pattern is written for 22 sts / 10cm on 4mm needles. If your tension is looser, try 3.75mm needles. |

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## YARN SUGGESTIONS

Any worsted weight / Aran weight yarn will suit this pattern, provided your tension matches. The following fibre types all work well:
- **100% wool** — great stitch definition, excellent for blocking
- **Wool/acrylic blend** — durable, easy-care, widely available
- **Superwash merino** — soft, machine washable, slightly more stretch
- **Cotton or cotton blend** — heavier, less stretch; swatch carefully as row gauge may differ

Avoid very fuzzy fibres (e.g., angora) for a first raglan, as it can be difficult to see your increases clearly.

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## QUICK-REFERENCE SUMMARY TABLE

| | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Cast on** | 88 | 88 | 88 | 88 | 88 |
| **Increase rounds** | 33 | 38 | 44 | 49 | 55 |
| **Total yoke sts at separation** | 352 | 392 | 440 | 480 | 528 |
| **Body sts (incl. underarm)** | 208 | 228 | 252 | 272 | 296 |
| **Sleeve sts (incl. underarm)** | 88 | 98 | 110 | 120 | 132 |
| **Body rounds (excl. ribbing)** | ~105 | ~108 | ~114 | ~117 | ~120 |
| **Decrease to cuff** | 44 | 44 | 44 | 44 | 44 |
| **Finished bust (cm)** | 94 | 104 | 114 | 124 | 134 |

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*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. Techniques used: working in the round, raglan increases (M1L / M1R), sleeve separation, stocking stitch, 1×1 ribbing, and working sleeves in the round. Tension is based on a 4mm needle swatch in worsted weight yarn.*

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