purlJam

<pattern>
### Tortoiseshell Butterfly Tank Top

**Difficulty Level:** Advanced

**Sizes:**
To fit bust circumference: 81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) cm / 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) inches
*(XS, S, M, L, XL)*

**Finished Measurements:**
Garment bust circumference: 86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127) cm / 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) inches
*(Approximately 5 cm / 2 inches of positive ease)*
Total length from shoulder: 53 (55, 57, 59, 61) cm / 21 (21¾, 22½, 23¼, 24) inches

**Materials:**
*   **Yarn:** Fingering weight yarn (approx. 400m / 100g)
    *   **MC (Main Colour):** Grey – 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) x 100g skeins
    *   **CC1 (Contrast Colour 1):** Black – 1 x 50g skein
    *   **CC2 (Contrast Colour 2):** White – 1 x 50g skein
*   **Needles:**
    *   3.25mm (US 3) circular or straight needles (for main fabric)
    *   2.75mm (US 2) circular or straight needles (for ribbing)
    *(It is recommended to use circular needles even for knitting flat, as they can accommodate a large number of stitches comfortably.)*
*   **Other:**
    *   Stitch markers
    *   Stitch holders or waste yarn
    *   Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
    *   Multiple small bobbins for intarsia colourwork

**Gauge/Tension:**
30 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Stocking stitch using 3.25mm (US 3) needles, blocked.
*(Please take time to check your tension carefully. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain correct tension.)*

**Abbreviations:**
*   **cm:** centimetres
*   **CC1:** Contrast Colour 1 (Black)
*   **CC2:** Contrast Colour 2 (White)
*   **dec:** decrease
*   **k:** knit
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together
*   **m:** metres
*   **MC:** Main Colour (Grey)
*   **p:** purl
*   **patt:** pattern
*   **rep:** repeat
*   **RS:** Right Side
*   **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped sts and k them together)
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **WS:** Wrong Side
*   **yo:** yarn over

**Notes:**
*   This pattern is worked flat in two separate pieces (Front and Back) from the bottom up, then seamed.
*   The "advanced" difficulty rating comes from the use of fingering weight yarn, precise shaping required for armholes and V-neck, and particularly the intricate intarsia colourwork on the Front panel, which involves managing multiple bobbins and interpreting an organic "tortoiseshell" motif rather than following a simple chart.
*   When working intarsia, always twist the yarns when changing colours to prevent holes. Pick up the new colour from *underneath* the old colour.
*   Block all pieces gently to measurements before seaming for the best finish.

**Stitch Patterns:**

1.  **1x1 Rib:**
    *   **Row 1 (RS):** *K1, P1; rep from * to end.
    *   **Row 2 (WS):** *P1, K1; rep from * to end.
    *   Repeat Rows 1-2 for ribbing.

2.  **Stocking Stitch (St-st):**
    *   **RS Rows:** Knit all stitches.
    *   **WS Rows:** Purl all stitches.

3.  **Tortoiseshell Intarsia Pattern (Front only):**
    *   This is an abstract colourwork pattern using MC (Grey) as the background with irregular "spots" of CC1 (Black) and CC2 (White). The exact placement of the colour blocks is left to the knitter's interpretation for a unique, organic "tortoiseshell" effect, mimicking butterfly wing patterns.
    *   **Guidelines for Intarsia:**
        *   Divide your Front panel into a central colourwork section (approx. 60-70% of the total stitches) with MC borders on each side.
        *   On RS rows, work MC for the border, then introduce CC1 and CC2 in irregular, non-repeating shapes within the central section. Work the remaining MC border.
        *   On WS rows, purl stitches in their respective colours.
        *   You will need to use multiple small bobbins for each colour (MC, CC1, CC2) within the central intarsia area. For example, if you have a section of MC, then CC1, then MC, then CC2, then MC, you'll need 5 bobbins (1 MC for left border, 1 CC1, 1 MC, 1 CC2, 1 MC for right border).
        *   Regularly switch colours, creating soft, curving or jagged edges as preferred. Aim for asymmetry and natural variation.
        *   Twist yarns at every colour change on both RS and WS rows to avoid holes.
    *   **Example Row (RS) – *This is a guideline, not a strict instruction***:
        *   Work 20 (24, 26, 30, 32) sts in MC (left border).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 10 sts in CC1 (bobbin 1).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 15 sts in MC (bobbin 2).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 8 sts in CC2 (bobbin 3).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 12 sts in MC (bobbin 4).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 10 sts in CC1 (bobbin 5).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 15 sts in MC (bobbin 6).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 8 sts in CC2 (bobbin 7).
        *   *Twist yarns.* Work 20 (24, 26, 30, 32) sts in MC (right border).
        *   *This example totals 128 (144, 158, 174, 188) stitches for the various sizes. Adjust stitch counts for the intarsia sections and borders to fit your chosen number of stitches per size and your design vision.*
    *   Vary the width and placement of the CC1 and CC2 sections on subsequent rows to create the "tortoiseshell" effect. Feel free to allow colours to bleed into one another, creating softer transitions, or maintain sharper lines.

---

**Pattern Instructions:**

**BACK:**
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and MC, cast on 128 (144, 158, 174, 188) stitches.
*(XS: 128 sts, S: 144 sts, M: 158 sts, L: 174 sts, XL: 188 sts)*
Work in 1x1 Rib for 4 cm (1½ inches), ending after a WS row.

Change to 3.25mm (US 3) needles.
Work in Stocking stitch in MC until piece measures 29 (30, 31, 32, 33) cm / 11½ (12, 12¼, 12½, 13) inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

**Shape Armholes:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) stitches, k to end. [123 (139, 152, 168, 181) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) stitches, p to end. [118 (134, 146, 162, 174) sts]
*   **Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [2 sts dec]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Purl.
Repeat Decrease Row every RS row 15 (17, 18, 20, 21) more times.
*(Total 16 (18, 19, 21, 22) decrease rows.)*
You will have 86 (98, 108, 120, 130) stitches remaining.

Work even in Stocking stitch until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm / 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½) inches, ending after a WS row.
Total length from cast-on edge will be approximately 53 (55, 57, 59, 61) cm / 21 (21¾, 22½, 23¼, 24) inches.

**Shape Shoulders:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, k to end. [78 (88, 97, 107, 116) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, p to end. [70 (78, 86, 94, 102) sts]
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, k to end. [62 (68, 75, 81, 88) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, p to end. [54 (58, 64, 68, 74) sts]
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, k to end. [46 (48, 53, 55, 60) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, p to end. [38 (38, 42, 42, 46) sts]
Place remaining 38 (38, 42, 42, 46) stitches onto a stitch holder for back neck.

**FRONT:**
Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and MC, cast on 128 (144, 158, 174, 188) stitches.
Work in 1x1 Rib for 4 cm (1½ inches), ending after a WS row.

Change to 3.25mm (US 3) needles.
Work in Tortoiseshell Intarsia Pattern until piece measures 29 (30, 31, 32, 33) cm / 11½ (12, 12¼, 12½, 13) inches from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
*Remember to manage your bobbins carefully and twist yarns at every colour change.*

**Shape Armholes:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) stitches, k in patt to end. [123 (139, 152, 168, 181) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 5 (5, 6, 6, 7) stitches, p in patt to end. [118 (134, 146, 162, 174) sts]
*   **Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [2 sts dec]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
Repeat Decrease Row every RS row 15 (17, 18, 20, 21) more times.
*(Total 16 (18, 19, 21, 22) decrease rows.)*
You will have 86 (98, 108, 120, 130) stitches remaining.

**Shape V-Neck (AT SAME TIME as armhole shaping):**
When armhole measures approximately 5 cm (2 inches) from first bind-off, begin V-neck shaping.
*   **Next RS Row (after any armhole decs):** Work in patt to centre 2 sts, k2tog, place remaining sts on holder to work left side later.
    *(To find centre: 86 (98, 108, 120, 130) sts / 2 = 43 (49, 54, 60, 65) sts. Work 42 (48, 53, 59, 64) sts, k2tog.)*
    [43 (49, 54, 60, 65) sts]
Continue working on these stitches for the right side of the V-neck.
*   **Neck Decrease Row (RS):** Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [1 st dec at neck edge]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
Repeat Neck Decrease Row every RS row 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) more times.
*(Total 21 (22, 23, 24, 25) neck decreases.)*
You will have 22 (26, 30, 36, 40) stitches remaining for the shoulder.

Work even (if necessary) in patt until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm / 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½) inches, ending after a WS row.

**Shape Right Shoulder:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, work to end. [14 (16, 19, 23, 26) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, work to end. [6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
*   **Next Row (RS):** Bind off remaining 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts.

**Shape Left Shoulder:**
Return to stitches on holder for the left side of the V-neck. Place remaining sts on holder to work right side later. Rejoin yarn at neck edge on a RS row.
*   **Next RS Row (after any armhole decs):** Slip 1 st knitwise, k2tog, k to end. [43 (49, 54, 60, 65) sts]
    *(This is effectively k1, ssk, k to end, assuming you slip 1 and k2tog with next two stitches)*
*   **Neck Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in patt to end. [1 st dec at neck edge]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
Repeat Neck Decrease Row every RS row 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) more times.
*(Total 21 (22, 23, 24, 25) neck decreases.)*
You will have 22 (26, 30, 36, 40) stitches remaining for the shoulder.

Work even (if necessary) in patt until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm / 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½) inches, ending after a RS row.

**Shape Left Shoulder:**
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, work to end. [14 (16, 19, 23, 26) sts]
*   **Next Row (RS):** Work in patt.
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off 8 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, work to end. [6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts]
*   **Next Row (RS):** Work in patt.
*   **Next Row (WS):** Bind off remaining 6 (6, 8, 10, 12) sts.

**FINISHING:**

1.  **Block:** Gently block all knitted pieces to the finished measurements. Pin out carefully, especially the intarsia pattern, to ensure it lies flat and smooth. Allow to dry completely.
2.  **Seam Shoulders:** Using the mattress stitch or your favourite seaming method, seam the shoulders of the Front and Back pieces.
3.  **Seam Sides:** Using the mattress stitch, seam the side edges from the bottom ribbing up to the armholes.
4.  **Neckband:**
    *   Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and MC, with RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 1 stitch for every row along the V-neck edge, and the held stitches from the back neck. Aim for a stitch count that is a multiple of 2 for 1x1 rib.
    *   Work in 1x1 Rib for 2 cm (¾ inch).
    *   Bind off loosely in rib.
5.  **Armhole Bands:**
    *   Using 2.75mm (US 2) needles and MC, with RS facing, pick up and knit stitches evenly around each armhole. Aim for approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows.
    *   Work in 1x1 Rib for 2 cm (¾ inch).
    *   Bind off loosely in rib.
6.  **Weave in Ends:** Carefully weave in all remaining yarn ends, particularly the numerous ends from the intarsia colourwork.
7.  **Final Block (Optional):** Give the finished garment a final light steam or block if desired.

Enjoy your unique Tortoiseshell Butterfly Tank Top!