Type
Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
tank
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: The user requested a "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" aesthetic at an "advanced" difficulty for a "fingering" weight yarn tank top.
* **Aesthetic**: I will interpret the "Tortoiseshell butterfly" as a mottled, organic colourwork pattern. The "black white grey" will be the palette for this pattern.
* **Difficulty**: To achieve "advanced" difficulty, I will incorporate stranded colourwork for the front panel, combined with V-neck shaping, and standard armhole and shoulder shaping. This adds complexity beyond basic garment construction.
* **Yarn Weight**: Fingering (4-ply) yarn necessitates a finer gauge, smaller needles, and significantly higher stitch counts compared to the template's default worsted weight.
* **Construction**: The pattern will follow the specified "worked flat in pieces (front and back) then seamed" construction.
* **Fit**: A "standard fit" with 5-10 cm (2-4 inches) of positive ease will be targeted.
* **Neckline**: A V-neck has been chosen to complement the advanced skill level and offer a flattering silhouette.
* **Terminology**: All terminology will adhere to UK English spelling and metric measurements first, with imperial in parentheses, as requested.
2. **Construction Plan**:
* **Gauge**: Establish a fingering weight tension (gauge) of 30 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch on 2.75mm needles.
* **Yarn/Needles**: Specify Fingering (4-ply) yarn, 2.75mm (US 2) for main fabric and 2.25mm (US 1) for ribbing.
* **Back Panel**:
* Cast on appropriate stitches for each size.
* Work 1x1 Ribbing.
* Work in stocking stitch to underarm.
* Shape armholes: Bind off initial stitches, then decrease 1 stitch at each end on right side (RS) rows.
* Work straight until desired length is reached, then shape shoulders and bind off remaining neck stitches.
* **Front Panel**:
* Same as back up to armhole.
* Introduce a centred colourwork chart (6 sts, 8 rows repeat) for the "Tortoiseshell" pattern after ribbing. The sides of the front will remain in main colour (MC) stocking stitch.
* Shape armholes simultaneously with back.
* Begin V-neck shaping by dividing the panel at the centre and decreasing 1 stitch at the neck edge on RS rows, while continuing armhole and eventually shoulder shaping.
* **Finishing**: Block pieces, seam shoulders and sides. Pick up stitches for armhole and neckline bands, work 1x1 ribbing, and bind off.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
* **Stitch Counts**: Recalculate all stitch counts based on the chosen fingering weight gauge (30 sts = 10 cm / 4 inches) and target finished measurements, ensuring they are divisible as needed for colourwork and shaping.
* **Shaping Proportions**: Verify that armhole, neck, and shoulder shaping rates are consistent across sizes and will result in the desired garment dimensions. Ensure simultaneous shaping instructions are clear.
* **Colourwork Chart**: The chart must be clear, legible, and include instructions for reading both RS and WS rows. Stranding instructions (carrying unused yarn) will be implicitly required for the technique.
* **Terminology**: A final check for consistent UK English spelling, metric-first measurements, and standard UK knitting abbreviations.
* **Difficulty**: The combination of fingering yarn, stranded colourwork, and complex V-neck/armhole/shoulder shaping ensures the "advanced" difficulty level is met.
4. **Final Calculations**:
* **Tension (Gauge)**: 30 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch on 2.75mm needles.
* **Finished Bust Circumference (with approx. 7.5 cm / 3 inches positive ease)**:
* XS: 84 cm (33 inches) -> Each panel 42 cm (16.5 inches) wide -> 124 stitches per panel.
* S: 94 cm (37 inches) -> Each panel 47 cm (18.5 inches) wide -> 138 stitches per panel.
* M: 104 cm (41 inches) -> Each panel 52 cm (20.5 inches) wide -> 154 stitches per panel.
* L: 114 cm (45 inches) -> Each panel 57 cm (22.5 inches) wide -> 168 stitches per panel.
* XL: 124 cm (49 inches) -> Each panel 62 cm (24.5 inches) wide -> 184 stitches per panel.
* **Colourwork Centring**:
* XS: 12 repeats of 6 sts = 72 sts. (124 - 72) / 2 = 26 MC sts each side.
* S: 14 repeats of 6 sts = 84 sts. (138 - 84) / 2 = 27 MC sts each side.
* M: 16 repeats of 6 sts = 96 sts. (154 - 96) / 2 = 29 MC sts each side.
* L: 18 repeats of 6 sts = 108 sts. (168 - 108) / 2 = 30 MC sts each side.
* XL: 20 repeats of 6 sts = 120 sts. (184 - 120) / 2 = 32 MC sts each side.
* **Lengths**: Total length approx. 58-63 cm (23-25 inches). Length to armhole approx. 38-40 cm (15-15.75 inches). Armhole depth approx. 20-23 cm (8-9 inches).
* **Shaping Rates**: Armhole: BO 4 sts once, then dec 1 st every RS row until desired depth. V-Neck: Dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row. Shoulder: Bind off in 3 steps.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
Before generating the pattern, verify your plan against the requirements:
1. **Completeness**: Yes, all required sections from the template structure will be included, and all template instructions will be addressed.
2. **Consistency**: Yes, stitch counts have been derived from the specified fingering weight gauge and target dimensions. Shaping instructions will be consistent with these calculations.
3. **Constraints**: Yes, "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" is addressed with a specific colourwork chart and palette. "advanced" difficulty is met with colourwork, V-neck, and precise shaping. "fingering" yarn weight is applied to gauge and stitch counts. UK English spelling/measurements are planned.
4. **Safety**: All critical calculations (stitch counts, shaping rates, dimensions) have been reviewed and will be double-checked during pattern generation using inline math validation.
Pattern
# Tortoiseshell Flutter Tank Top
This advanced knit tank top features an intricate tortoiseshell-inspired colourwork motif on the front, worked in a subtle black, white, and grey palette. Worked flat in pieces (front and back) then seamed, this piece offers a refined fit with elegant V-neck and classic armhole shaping. Perfect for summer or as a sophisticated layering garment.
**DIFFICULTY LEVEL:** Advanced
**SIZES:** XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit bust: 76-81 (86-91, 96-102, 107-112, 117-122) cm / 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48) inches
**FINISHED BUST MEASUREMENT (APPROX.):** 84 (94, 104, 114, 124) cm / 33 (37, 41, 45, 49) inches
*Sample shown in size M with 8 cm (3 inches) positive ease.*
---
## MATERIALS
* **YARN:** Fingering (4-ply) weight yarn, 100% Cotton, Cotton/Linen blend, or superwash Merino wool recommended for drape and definition.
* **MC (Main Colour - Black):** 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) x 50g balls / 150 (180, 210, 240, 270) g approx.
* **CC1 (Contrast Colour 1 - Grey):** 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) x 50g balls / 50 (60, 70, 80, 90) g approx.
* **CC2 (Contrast Colour 2 - White):** 1 x 50g ball / 30 (35, 40, 45, 50) g approx.
*(Approximate yarn requirements: 450 (540, 630, 720, 810) metres / 492 (590, 689, 787, 886) yards total)*
* **NEEDLES:**
* 2.75 mm (US 2) circular or straight needles (for main fabric)
* 2.25 mm (US 1) circular or straight needles (for ribbing)
* **OTHER:**
* Stitch holders or waste yarn
* Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
* Stitch markers
---
## TENSION (GAUGE)
30 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking stitch using 2.75 mm (US 2) needles, blocked.
*Please take time to check your tension (gauge). Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct tension (gauge).*
---
## ABBREVIATIONS
**k** = knit
**p** = purl
**st(s)** = stitch(es)
**RS** = right side
**WS** = wrong side
**MC** = Main Colour
**CC1** = Contrast Colour 1
**CC2** = Contrast Colour 2
**k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
**ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
**BO** = bind off
**M1L** = make 1 left (lift strand between needles from front to back, knit into back of loop)
**M1R** = make 1 right (lift strand between needles from back to front, knit into front of loop)
**pm** = place marker
**sm** = slip marker
**rem** = remaining
**cm** = centimetre(s)
**rep** = repeat
**foll** = following
---
## STITCH PATTERN: Tortoiseshell Motif Chart
Work Chart in stocking stitch, reading RS rows from right to left and WS rows from left to right. Carry unused colours loosely across the back of the work to prevent puckering.
**Chart Legend:**
* **\[ ]** = Knit stitch in MC
* **\[ - ]** = Knit stitch in CC1
* **\[ + ]** = Knit stitch in CC2
```
6 5 4 3 2 1 Stitch Count
8 [+][-][-][+][-][-] Row 8 (WS) - CC1, MC, CC2, CC1, MC, MC
7 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 7 (RS) - MC, CC2, CC1, MC, CC2, MC
6 [-][-][+][-][-][-] Row 6 (WS) - CC1, MC, CC1, MC, MC, CC1
5 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 5 (RS) - MC, CC1, MC, MC, CC1, MC
4 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 4 (WS) - CC1, MC, CC2, CC1, MC, MC
3 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 3 (RS) - MC, CC1, MC, CC1, CC2, MC
2 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 2 (WS) - CC1, MC, CC1, MC, MC, CC1
1 [-][+][-][-][+][-] Row 1 (RS) - MC, MC, CC1, MC, CC1, MC
```
*Note: The chart provided above is a text representation. In a visual chart, the symbols would represent the colours for each stitch.*
*My intended chart for reference:*
*Row 1 (RS): k MC, k MC, k CC1, k MC, k CC1, k MC*
*Row 2 (WS): p CC1, p MC, p CC1, p MC, p MC, p CC1*
*Row 3 (RS): k MC, k CC2, k CC1, k MC, k CC1, k MC*
*Row 4 (WS): p CC1, p MC, p CC1, p CC2, p MC, p MC*
*Row 5 (RS): k MC, k CC1, k MC, k MC, k CC1, k MC*
*Row 6 (WS): p CC1, p MC, p MC, p CC1, p MC, p CC1*
*Row 7 (RS): k MC, k CC2, k MC, k CC1, k CC2, k MC*
*Row 8 (WS): p CC1, p MC, p CC2, p MC, p CC1, p MC*
---
## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS
### BACK PANEL
Using 2.25 mm (US 1) needles and MC, cast on 124 (138, 154, 168, 184) sts.
**Ribbing:**
Row 1 (RS): \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.
Row 2 (WS): \*p1, k1; rep from \* to end.
Rep these 2 rows until work measures 4 cm (1.5 inches), ending on a WS row.
Change to 2.75 mm (US 2) needles and MC.
Work in stocking stitch (k RS rows, p WS rows) until piece measures 38 (38, 39, 40, 40) cm / 15 (15, 15.5, 15.75, 15.75) inches from cast-on edge, ending on a WS row.
#### Shape Armholes
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. \[116 (130, 146, 160, 176) sts rem]
**(XS: 124 - 8 = 116)**, **(S: 138 - 8 = 130)**, **(M: 154 - 8 = 146)**, **(L: 168 - 8 = 160)**, **(XL: 184 - 8 = 176)**.
Next Row (RS): k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. \[2 sts dec]
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Rep these 2 rows 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) more times. \[94 (104, 116, 126, 138) sts rem]
**(XS: 116 - 22 = 94)**, **(S: 130 - 26 = 104)**, **(M: 146 - 30 = 116)**, **(L: 160 - 34 = 126)**, **(XL: 176 - 38 = 138)**.
Work straight in stocking stitch until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 22, 23) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.75, 8.75, 9) inches from BO edge, ending on a WS row. Total length approx. 58 (59, 61, 62, 63) cm / 23 (23.25, 24, 24.5, 25) inches.
#### Shape Shoulders and Back Neck
Next Row (RS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, knit until 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts rem, BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. \[78 (86, 96, 106, 116) sts rem, including sts on needle after BO]
**(XS: 94 - 16 = 78)**, **(S: 104 - 18 = 86)**, **(M: 116 - 20 = 96)**, **(L: 126 - 20 = 106)**, **(XL: 138 - 22 = 116)**.
Next Row (WS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, purl until 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts rem, BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. \[62 (68, 76, 86, 94) sts rem]
**(XS: 78 - 16 = 62)**, **(S: 86 - 18 = 68)**, **(M: 96 - 20 = 76)**, **(L: 106 - 20 = 86)**, **(XL: 116 - 22 = 94)**.
Next Row (RS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, knit across remaining 54 (59, 66, 76, 83) sts.
**(XS: 62 - 8 = 54)**, **(S: 68 - 9 = 59)**, **(M: 76 - 10 = 66)**, **(L: 86 - 10 = 76)**, **(XL: 94 - 11 = 83)**.
Next Row (WS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, purl across remaining 46 (50, 56, 66, 72) sts.
**(XS: 54 - 8 = 46)**, **(S: 59 - 9 = 50)**, **(M: 66 - 10 = 56)**, **(L: 76 - 10 = 66)**, **(XL: 83 - 11 = 72)**.
BO all remaining 46 (50, 56, 66, 72) back neck stitches.
---
### FRONT PANEL
Using 2.25 mm (US 1) needles and MC, cast on 124 (138, 154, 168, 184) sts.
**Ribbing:**
Row 1 (RS): \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.
Row 2 (WS): \*p1, k1; rep from \* to end.
Rep these 2 rows until work measures 4 cm (1.5 inches), ending on a WS row.
Change to 2.75 mm (US 2) needles.
Set-up Row (RS): Knit 26 (27, 29, 30, 32) sts in MC, pm, work Row 1 of Tortoiseshell Motif Chart over 72 (84, 96, 108, 120) sts, pm, knit to end in MC.
**(XS: 26 MC + 72 Chart + 26 MC = 124)**, **(S: 27 MC + 84 Chart + 27 MC = 138)**, **(M: 29 MC + 96 Chart + 29 MC = 154)**, **(L: 30 MC + 108 Chart + 30 MC = 168)**, **(XL: 32 MC + 120 Chart + 32 MC = 184)**.
Next Row (WS): Purl to first marker in MC, sm, work Row 2 of Chart to next marker, sm, purl to end in MC.
Cont in pattern as established (MC stocking stitch for side sections, Chart for centre section) until piece measures 38 (38, 39, 40, 40) cm / 15 (15, 15.5, 15.75, 15.75) inches from cast-on edge, ending on a WS row.
#### Shape Armholes and V-Neck (Simultaneously)
**Armhole Shaping:**
BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows. \[116 (130, 146, 160, 176) sts rem]
**(XS: 124 - 8 = 116)**, **(S: 138 - 8 = 130)**, **(M: 154 - 8 = 146)**, **(L: 168 - 8 = 160)**, **(XL: 184 - 8 = 176)**.
**V-Neck Shaping:**
Next Row (RS): k1, ssk, work in pattern as established to centre (before last 2 sts of chart section), k2tog, pm (centre), join second ball of yarn, ssk, work in pattern as established to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. \[4 sts dec total (2 for armholes, 2 for V-neck)]
**(XS: (116 - 2) / 2 = 57 sts per side)**, **(S: (130 - 2) / 2 = 64 sts per side)**, **(M: (146 - 2) / 2 = 72 sts per side)**, **(L: (160 - 2) / 2 = 79 sts per side)**, **(XL: (176 - 2) / 2 = 87 sts per side)**.
*You now have two sections for the front, working each side separately with separate balls of yarn.*
Next Row (WS): Purl across first side in pattern to centre, sm. Purl across second side in pattern to end.
Rep these 2 rows (armhole decrease on each RS row, V-neck decrease on each RS row) 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) more times.
After all armhole decreases are complete, continue V-neck shaping (dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row) until 24 (27, 30, 30, 33) sts rem for each shoulder.
**(XS: 57 - 11 (armhole) - 22 (neck) = 24)**
**(S: 64 - 13 (armhole) - 24 (neck) = 27)**
**(M: 72 - 15 (armhole) - 27 (neck) = 30)**
**(L: 79 - 17 (armhole) - 32 (neck) = 30)**
**(XL: 87 - 19 (armhole) - 35 (neck) = 33)**
Work straight in pattern on rem shoulder sts until armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 22, 23) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.75, 8.75, 9) inches from BO edge, ending on a WS row. Total length approx. 58 (59, 61, 62, 63) cm / 23 (23.25, 24, 24.5, 25) inches.
#### Shape Shoulders
**First Shoulder:**
Next Row (RS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. \[16 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts rem]
**(XS: 24 - 8 = 16)**, **(S: 27 - 9 = 18)**, **(M: 30 - 10 = 20)**, **(L: 30 - 10 = 20)**, **(XL: 33 - 11 = 22)**.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, knit to end. \[8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts rem]
**(XS: 16 - 8 = 8)**, **(S: 18 - 9 = 9)**, **(M: 20 - 10 = 10)**, **(L: 20 - 10 = 10)**, **(XL: 22 - 11 = 11)**.
Next Row (WS): Purl.
Next Row (RS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts.
**Second Shoulder:**
With WS facing, re-join yarn to inner edge of second shoulder.
Next Row (WS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. \[16 (18, 20, 20, 22) sts rem]
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Next Row (WS): BO 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts, purl to end. \[8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts rem]
Next Row (RS): Knit.
Next Row (WS): BO rem 8 (9, 10, 10, 11) sts.
---
### FINISHING
1. **Blocking:** Gently block both front and back pieces to their finished dimensions according to yarn care instructions. Allow to dry completely. Blocking is crucial for evening out colourwork tension and achieving a good drape.
2. **Seaming:**
* Place front and back pieces RS together.
* **Shoulder Seams:** Sew shoulder seams using the mattress stitch.
* **Side Seams:** Sew side seams from the cast-on edge up to the armhole shaping using the mattress stitch.
3. **Armhole Bands:**
* Using 2.25 mm (US 1) needles and MC, and with RS facing, pick up and knit approximately 1 stitch for every row along each armhole edge. Aim for a neat edge, adjusting pick-up rate slightly to lie flat.
* Work in 1x1 Rib (k1, p1) for 2 cm (0.75 inches).
* BO all stitches in pattern loosely.
4. **Neckline Band:**
* Using 2.25 mm (US 1) needles and MC, and with RS facing, begin at a shoulder seam. Pick up and knit approximately 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the V-neck shaping, and 1 stitch for every stitch along the back neck BO edge. Aim for a neat edge, adjusting pick-up rate slightly to lie flat.
* Work in 1x1 Rib (k1, p1) for 2 cm (0.75 inches).
* BO all stitches in pattern loosely.
5. **Final Touches:** Weave in any remaining loose ends securely.
---
**CARE INSTRUCTIONS:** Refer to your yarn label for specific care instructions. Hand washing and laying flat to dry is generally recommended for knitted garments.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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