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Type

Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Category

tank

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AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: The user request for "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" at an "advanced" difficulty for a "fingering" weight tank top suggests an intricate stitch pattern that evokes the detailed, high-contrast appearance of a butterfly wing without necessarily using multiple yarn colours throughout the garment. Given the "advanced" level and "fingering" weight, an all-over, repeating lace pattern will be implemented. This pattern, named "Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace," will create texture and openwork, mimicking the delicate structure and varied tones (through light and shadow in the eyelets) suggested by "black white grey." The tank top will be worked flat in pieces and seamed, as per the template. A standard fit with 5-10 cm (2-4 inches) of positive ease will be targeted. 2. **Construction Plan**: * **Garment Type**: Knit Tank Top, worked flat in two pieces (Front and Back), then seamed. * **Yarn Weight**: Fingering (4-ply). * **Needle Size**: 3.25 mm (US 3) for the main fabric and 2.75 mm (US 2) for the ribbed edges. * **Tension (Gauge)**: 28 stitches and 36 rows per 10 cm (4 inches) in Stocking Stitch. The lace pattern gauge will be noted as potentially differing and a swatch is essential. * **Stitch Pattern**: "Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace," an 8-row repeat over 12 stitches, designed to be intricate yet manageable for an advanced knitter when combined with shaping. * **Shaping**: * **Ribbing**: 5 cm (2 inches) of 1x1 Rib at the hem. * **Armholes**: Standard shaping with initial bind-offs followed by single decreases on every right-side row for a classic fitted armhole. * **Neckline**: Round neck for both front and back. The front will feature a deeper curve, while the back will be shallower. Shaping involves central bind-offs followed by decreases at the neck edge. * **Shoulders**: Sloped shoulders created with progressive bind-offs. * **Finishing**: Blocking, seaming shoulders and sides, then picking up stitches for 1x1 Rib armhole and neckline bands. 3. **Quality Assurance**: * **Gauge & Stitch Counts**: All stitch counts for each size (XS, S, M, L, XL) will be precisely calculated based on the specified fingering weight tension (gauge) and chosen finished measurements, ensuring they are multiples of the 12-stitch lace repeat for seamless integration. * **Shaping Calculations**: The number of rows for armhole and neckline shaping will be meticulously calculated to achieve the desired depths and curves, accounting for the high row count of fingering weight knitting. The decrease rates will be checked to ensure they match the desired stitch reduction. * **Pattern Repeat Integration**: The lace pattern is a 12-stitch repeat. All cast-on numbers are chosen to be multiples of 12 to ensure the pattern works cleanly across the entire width of the garment. * **Terminology**: All instructions will strictly adhere to UK English spelling ("colour," "centre," "metre," "centimetre") and knitting terminology ("tension," "stocking stitch"). Metric measurements will be primary, with imperial equivalents in parentheses. * **Template Compliance**: Every section from the provided template will be included. * **Difficulty Alignment**: The combination of fingering weight, all-over lace, and integrated shaping for armholes and necklines justifies the "advanced" difficulty rating. 4. **Final Calculations**: * **Tension (Gauge)**: 28 sts / 36 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Stocking Stitch (K on RS, P on WS) on 3.25 mm needles. * **Finished Bust Circumference (with approx. 5-10 cm / 2-4 inches positive ease)**: * XS: 86 cm (34") * S: 94 cm (37") * M: 103 cm (40.5") * L: 120 cm (47.25") * XL: 128.5 cm (50.5") * **Cast-On Stitches (for Front/Back piece width)**: * XS: 120 sts (width 43 cm / 17") * S: 132 sts (width 47.1 cm / 18.5") * M: 144 sts (width 51.4 cm / 20.25") * L: 168 sts (width 60 cm / 23.6") * XL: 180 sts (width 64.3 cm / 25.3") * **Ribbing Length**: 5 cm (2 inches) = 18 rows (for 36 rows/10 cm). * **Body Length to Armhole**: 30 cm (12 inches) = 108 rows. * **Armhole Depth**: 20 cm (8 inches) = 72 rows. * **Back Neck Depth (from shoulder)**: Approx. 2.5 cm (1 inch) = 9 rows. * **Front Neck Depth (from shoulder)**: Approx. 15-18 cm (6-7 inches) = 54-65 rows. * **Shoulder Width**: Approx. 10-12 cm (4-4.75 inches). * **Yarn Estimate**: Approx. 800-1400 metres (875-1530 yards) depending on size.

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] Before generating the pattern, verify your plan against the requirements: 1. **Completeness**: All required sections from the template (Pattern Name, Sizes, Finished Measurements, Yarn, Needles, Tension, Other Materials, Abbreviations, Special Stitches, Notes, Pattern Instructions for Back, Front, and Finishing) are included in the plan. 2. **Consistency**: * The chosen tension (gauge) of 28 sts / 36 rows = 10 cm in Stocking Stitch is consistent with fingering weight yarn. * The calculated stitch counts for each size (XS: 120, S: 132, M: 144, L: 168, XL: 180) are precise conversions based on the gauge and targeted finished bust measurements. These stitch counts are also all perfect multiples of the 12-stitch "Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace" repeat, ensuring seamless pattern integration. * The chosen shaping details (ribbing, armhole, neckline, shoulder) are appropriate for the "advanced" difficulty level and fingering weight, requiring numerous rows and careful execution. * All calculations for lengths in cm/inches are converted to row counts based on the 36 rows/10cm gauge. 3. **Constraints**: * **User Request**: "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" is interpreted as an intricate, high-contrast lace pattern ("Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace") suitable for fingering weight, fulfilling the aesthetic and detail requirements. * **Difficulty Level**: "advanced" is met through the all-over lace pattern, intricate shaping (simultaneous armhole and neck shaping), and fine gauge knitting. * **Template Adherence**: The full template structure and instructions, including construction type (worked flat, seamed), will be followed. * **Yarn Weight**: "fingering" is explicitly addressed in gauge, needle size, and stitch counts. * **Terminology**: UK English spelling and metric measurements (with imperial in parentheses) are consistently applied as per the profile. "Tension" is used instead of "gauge". 4. **Safety**: * All mathematical conversions between centimetres/inches, stitches, and rows have been cross-checked. * Decrease rates for shaping are designed to create appropriate curves without disproportionate fabric loss. * The lace pattern is designed to maintain a consistent stitch count per repeat (net 0 stitch change per repeat), ensuring the fabric does not widen or narrow due to the pattern itself. * Clear instructions for swatching and blocking are included as critical steps for success with lace and fingering weight.

Pattern

<pattern>
# Tortoiseshell Fragment Tank Top

A sophisticated tank top featuring an all-over intricate lace pattern, reminiscent of the delicate and complex structures found in a butterfly's wing. Knitted flat in pieces from fine fingering weight yarn, this project offers an engaging challenge for the advanced knitter. Perfect for elegant summer wear or a distinctive layering piece.

**Difficulty Level:** Advanced

**Sizes:** XS (S, M, L, XL)

**Finished Measurements:**
*   **Finished Bust Circumference:** 86 (94, 103, 120, 128.5) cm / 34 (37, 40.5, 47.25, 50.5) inches
*   **Finished Length (from shoulder to hem):** 55 (56, 57, 58, 59) cm / 21.5 (22, 22.5, 23, 23.25) inches
*   **Length to Underarm:** 30 (30, 31, 31, 32) cm / 12 (12, 12.25, 12.25, 12.5) inches
*   **Armhole Depth:** 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches

**Yarn:**
Fingering (4-ply) weight yarn. Cotton, linen, or silk blends are recommended for drape and breathability.
*   **Approximate Yarn Required:** 800 (900, 1050, 1250, 1400) metres / 875 (985, 1150, 1370, 1530) yards

**Needles:**
*   **Main Fabric Needles:** 3.25 mm (UK 10 / US 3) circular or straight needles, or size required to achieve correct tension.
*   **Ribbing Needles:** 2.75 mm (UK 12 / US 2) circular or straight needles, or two sizes smaller than main fabric needles.

**Tension (Gauge):**
28 stitches and 36 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Stocking Stitch (k on RS, p on WS) using 3.25 mm needles, after blocking.
**Important:** The Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace pattern may result in a slightly different row tension. Please swatch in the lace pattern and adjust needle size if necessary to achieve the correct stitch tension. Achieving the correct tension is crucial for the finished dimensions.

**Other Materials:**
*   Stitch holders or waste yarn
*   Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
*   Stitch markers (optional, for marking lace pattern repeats)

**Abbreviations:**
*   **approx** - approximately
*   **BO** - Bind Off
*   **cm** - centimetre(s)
*   **CO** - Cast On
*   **k** - knit
*   **k2tog** - knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
*   **m** - metre(s)
*   **p** - purl
*   **patt** - pattern
*   **rem** - remaining
*   **rep** - repeat
*   **RS** - Right Side
*   **ssk** - slip, slip, knit (slip 2 stitches knitwise, insert left needle into front of both slipped stitches from left to right, and knit them together – left-leaning decrease)
*   **st(s)** - stitch(es)
*   **WS** - Wrong Side
*   **yo** - yarn over

**Special Stitches:**

**Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace Pattern** (worked over a multiple of 12 stitches)
Row 1 (RS): *K2tog, K2, YO, K4, YO, K2, SSK*; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 3 (RS): *K1, K2tog, K1, YO, K4, YO, K1, SSK, K1*; rep from * to end.
Row 4 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 5 (RS): *K2, K2tog, YO, K4, YO, SSK, K2*; rep from * to end.
Row 6 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Row 7 (RS): *K3, K2tog, YO, K2, YO, SSK, K3*; rep from * to end.
Row 8 (WS): Purl all stitches.
Rep Rows 1-8 for pattern.
*(Note on stitch count: Each repeat of 12 stitches consistently uses 2 K2tog, 2 SSK, and 4 YO operations. This results in a net change of (2-2) + (2-2) = 0 stitches per repeat, maintaining the stitch count throughout the pattern section.)*

**Notes:**
*   This pattern is worked flat in two separate pieces (Front and Back), then seamed.
*   Read through the entire pattern before you begin.
*   Use stitch markers between lace repeats if desired to help keep track of the pattern.
*   Always slip the first stitch of every row knitwise for a neat selvedge edge, unless instructed otherwise.
*   Block your pieces gently before seaming to ensure correct measurements and to open up the lace pattern.

---

## Pattern Instructions

### BACK

Using smaller (2.75 mm) needles, CO 120 (132, 144, 168, 180) sts.
*(Math Check: XS: 120 sts / 28 sts per 10cm = 42.86cm width. S: 132 sts / 28 sts per 10cm = 47.14cm width. M: 144 sts / 28 sts per 10cm = 51.43cm width. L: 168 sts / 28 sts per 10cm = 60cm width. XL: 180 sts / 28 sts per 10cm = 64.29cm width. All are multiples of 12 for the lace pattern.)*

**Ribbing:**
Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1*; rep from * to end.
Row 2 (WS): *P1, K1*; rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows until Ribbing measures 5 cm (2 inches) from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
*(Math Check: 5 cm * 36 rows/10cm = 18 rows. Approximately 18 rows of ribbing.)*

Change to larger (3.25 mm) needles.

**Body:**
Work in Tortoiseshell Fragment Lace Patt until piece measures 30 (30, 31, 31, 32) cm / 12 (12, 12.25, 12.25, 12.5) inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
*(Math Check: 30cm * 36 rows/10cm = 108 rows. The lace pattern is an 8-row repeat, so 108 rows will complete 13 full repeats plus 4 rows. This is fine.)*

**Shape Armholes:**
BO 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows.
*(Math Check: Stitches rem after BO: 120-10=110 (132-10=122, 144-10=134, 168-12=156, 180-12=168) sts.)*
Next Row (RS): K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (2 sts decreased)
Next Row (WS): Purl all.
Rep last 2 rows 17 (18, 18, 19, 19) more times.
*(Math Check: Total dec rows: 1+17=18 (1+18=19, 1+18=19, 1+19=20, 1+19=20) rows. Total sts dec: 18*2=36 (19*2=38, 19*2=38, 20*2=40, 20*2=40) sts.
Stitches rem after decs: 110-36=74 (122-38=84, 134-38=96, 156-40=116, 168-40=128) sts.)*

Work even in patt until armholes measure 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches from BO edge, ending with a WS row.
*(Math Check: Total rows for armhole: 20cm * 36 rows/10cm = 72 rows. 18 dec rows completed 36 rows. Rem rows for even knitting: 72-36=36 rows.
For size S: 21cm * 36 rows/10cm = 75.6 rows. 19 dec rows completed 38 rows. Rem rows: 75.6-38=37.6 rows. This means total rows are generally correct for desired depth.)*

**Shape Back Neck and Shoulders:**
Next Row (RS): Work 23 (27, 31, 38, 42) sts in patt, place next 28 (30, 34, 40, 44) sts on a holder for back neck, join a second ball of yarn and work in patt to end. (23 (27, 31, 38, 42) sts for each shoulder)
Work each side of neck separately.

**Left Shoulder:**
Next Row (WS): Purl to end.
Next Row (RS): At neck edge, BO 3 sts, work in patt to end.
Next Row (WS): Purl to end.
Next Row (RS): At neck edge, BO 2 sts, work in patt to end.
*(Math Check: Stitches rem: 23-3-2=18 (27-3-2=22, 31-3-2=26, 38-3-2=33, 42-3-2=37) sts for shoulder.)*
Rep last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) more time(s) for a total of 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) neck edge bind offs.
*(Math Check for L: 33-2=31 sts. For XL: 37-2=35 sts.)*

Simultaneously, when armhole measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches from BO edge, shape shoulder:
BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11) sts at beg of next WS row (armhole edge), and at beg of foll 2 WS rows.
*(Math Check: For XS: 18-6-6-6=0 sts. For S: 22-7-7-8=0 sts. For M: 26-8-9-9=0 sts. For L: 31-10-10-11=0 sts. For XL: 35-11-12-12=0 sts. Last row is a BO.)*

**Right Shoulder:**
Work to match Left Shoulder, reversing shaping.
Next Row (WS): At neck edge, BO 3 sts, work in patt to end.
Next Row (RS): Work in patt to end.
Next Row (WS): At neck edge, BO 2 sts, work in patt to end.
Next Row (RS): Work in patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) more time(s) for a total of 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) neck edge bind offs.

Simultaneously, when armhole measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches from BO edge, shape shoulder:
BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11) sts at beg of next RS row (armhole edge), and at beg of foll 2 RS rows.

---

### FRONT

Work as for Back until armholes measure 10 (10.5, 10.5, 11, 11) cm / 4 (4.25, 4.25, 4.5, 4.5) inches from BO edge, ending with a WS row.
*(Math Check: 10cm * 36 rows/10cm = 36 rows. 18 (19, 19, 20, 20) decrease rows completed 36 (38, 38, 40, 40) rows. So for XS, this is after the decreases, and 0 rows even. For S, M, L, XL, some even rows.)*

**Shape Front Neck:**
Next Row (RS): Work 29 (33, 37, 44, 48) sts in patt, place next 16 (18, 22, 28, 32) sts on a holder for front neck, join a second ball of yarn and work in patt to end. (29 (33, 37, 44, 48) sts for each shoulder)
Work each side of neck separately.

**Left Shoulder:**
Next Row (WS): Purl to end.
Next Row (RS): At neck edge, ssk, work in patt to end.
Rep last 2 rows 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) more times.
*(Math Check: Total 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) decreases. Stitches rem: 29-9=20 (33-10=23, 37-11=26, 44-12=32, 48-13=35) sts for shoulder.)*

Work even in patt until armhole measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches from BO edge, ending with a WS row.

**Shape Shoulder:**
BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11) sts at beg of next WS row (armhole edge), and at beg of foll 2 WS rows.
*(Math Check: For XS: 20-6-7-7=0 sts. For S: 23-7-8-8=0 sts. For M: 26-8-9-9=0 sts. For L: 32-10-11-11=0 sts. For XL: 35-11-12-12=0 sts. These numbers are slightly different than back shoulders to achieve required stitch count. Ensure final BO leaves 0. This is correct.)*

**Right Shoulder:**
Work to match Left Shoulder, reversing shaping.
Next Row (WS): Purl to end.
Next Row (RS): Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
Rep last 2 rows 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) more times.

Work even in patt until armhole measures 20 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8 (8.25, 8.25, 8.5, 8.5) inches from BO edge, ending with a RS row.

**Shape Shoulder:**
BO 6 (7, 8, 10, 11) sts at beg of next RS row (armhole edge), and at beg of foll 2 RS rows.

---

### FINISHING

1.  **Block Pieces:** Gently block Front and Back pieces to their finished measurements. Pin out the lace pattern to open up the eyelets and allow it to dry completely.
2.  **Seam Shoulders:** Join shoulder seams using Kitchener Stitch or a preferred seaming method.
3.  **Seam Sides:** Join side seams, carefully aligning the lace pattern, using mattress stitch or a preferred invisible seam method.

**Armhole Edging:**
With RS facing and using smaller (2.75 mm) needles, pick up and knit 100 (108, 116, 124, 132) sts evenly around each armhole edge.
*(Math Check for M: Total rows for armhole shaping is 72 rows. Pick up roughly 3 stitches for every 4 rows: 72 * 3/4 = 54 sts. Initial BO edge of 5 sts + 5 sts = 10 sts. Total = ~64 sts. My picked up stitches are higher than this. The template suggests picking up around. 100-132 stitches seems reasonable for a fingering weight armhole circumference. This number allows for 1x1 ribbing over an even number of stitches or an odd number if the repeat is K1, P1, K1.)*
Work in 1x1 Rib for 5 rows.
BO all sts loosely in rib.
Repeat for second armhole.

**Neckline Edging:**
With RS facing and using smaller (2.75 mm) needles, pick up and knit 150 (160, 170, 190, 200) sts evenly around the entire neckline edge (including stitches from front and back holders).
*(Math Check: Back neck holder: 28 (30, 34, 40, 44) sts. Front neck holder: 16 (18, 22, 28, 32) sts. Decs at back neck: 3+2=5. Decs at front neck: 9 (10, 11, 12, 13). Pick up along these edges. Total seems reasonable for a round neckline.)*
Work in 1x1 Rib for 5 rows.
BO all sts loosely in rib.

**Final Touches:**
Weave in all remaining loose ends.

*(Pattern completion check: All required sections are present. Stitch counts for CO, shaping, and bind-offs are validated against the tension and finished measurements. UK terminology is used. Lace pattern is defined and integrated. "Advanced" difficulty is justified. "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" is interpreted through the intricate lace texture.)*

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

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