purlJam

# Tortoiseshell Wing Tank Top

## Description:
Embrace the intricate beauty of nature with the "Tortoiseshell Wing Tank Top." This advanced-level knitting pattern features a stunning grayscale stranded colourwork motif, inspired by the distinctive patterns of a tortoiseshell butterfly's wing, rendered up close in charcoal, light grey, and cream. Worked flat in pieces and seamed, this tank top offers a challenging yet rewarding project for experienced knitters. The fingering weight yarn creates a delicate, comfortable fabric, perfect for layering or as a sophisticated standalone piece.

## Skill Level:
Advanced

## Sizes:
XS (S, M, L, XL)
To fit bust circumference: 76-81 (86-91, 97-102, 107-112, 117-122) cm / 30-32 (34-36, 38-40, 42-44, 46-48) inches

## Finished Measurements:
**Bust Circumference:** 89 (99, 109, 119, 129) cm / 35 (39, 43, 47, 51) inches
*This garment is designed with approximately 5-10 cm / 2-4 inches of positive ease for a standard fit.*
**Length (from shoulder to hem):** 56 (57, 58, 60, 61) cm / 22 (22.5, 23, 23.5, 24) inches

## Materials:
*   **Yarn:** Fingering weight yarn (approx. 400m/100g) in 3 colours:
    *   MC (Main Colour): Charcoal – 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) skeins (approx. 400 (480, 560, 640, 720) metres / 437 (525, 612, 700, 788) yards)
    *   CC1 (Contrasting Colour 1): Light Grey – 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skeins (approx. 200 (240, 280, 320, 360) metres / 219 (262, 306, 350, 394) yards)
    *   CC2 (Contrasting Colour 2): Cream – 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) skeins (approx. 100 (120, 140, 160, 180) metres / 109 (131, 153, 175, 197) yards)
    *   *Note: Yarn quantities are estimates. Always buy extra for colourwork projects.*
*   **Needles:**
    *   3.0 mm (US 2.5) circular needles, 60-80 cm (24-32 inches) long (or size needed to obtain tension)
    *   2.5 mm (US 1.5) circular needles, 60-80 cm (24-32 inches) long (for ribbing)
*   **Notions:**
    *   Stitch markers
    *   Stitch holders or waste yarn
    *   Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends

## Tension (Gauge):
30 stitches (sts) and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart using 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles, after blocking.
*It is crucial to take time to check your tension. A swatch worked in the Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart, blocked, is highly recommended to ensure accurate sizing.*

## Abbreviations:
*   **k** – knit
*   **p** – purl
*   **st(s)** – stitch(es)
*   **RS** – right side
*   **WS** – wrong side
*   **MC** – Main Colour
*   **CC1** – Contrasting Colour 1
*   **CC2** – Contrasting Colour 2
*   **CO** – cast on
*   **BO** – bind off
*   **k2tog** – knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
*   **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
*   **pm** – place marker
*   **sm** – slip marker
*   **rep** – repeat
*   **cm** – centimetre(s)
*   **inc** – increase
*   **dec** – decrease

## Special Stitches/Techniques:

**2x2 Rib:**
*   **Row 1 (RS):** *K2, P2; rep from * to end of row.
*   **Row 2 (WS):** *P2, K2; rep from * to end of row.
Rep these 2 rows for pattern.

**Stranded Colourwork:** Work with two colours in each row as charted. Ensure floats on the wrong side are carried loosely to maintain the fabric's elasticity. Catch floats every 3-5 stitches to prevent long strands from snagging and to maintain even tension.

**Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart (8 sts x 8 rows repeat):**
Work all knit rows (RS) from right to left and all purl rows (WS) from left to right.
Each square represents 1 stitch.
Colours: C = Charcoal (MC), G = Light Grey (CC1), R = Cream (CC2).

| **Row 8 (WS)** | C | G | R | C | C | G | R | C | (Purl these stitches)
| **Row 7 (RS)** | G | R | C | C | G | R | C | G | (Knit these stitches)
| **Row 6 (WS)** | R | C | G | C | G | R | C | C | (Purl these stitches)
| **Row 5 (RS)** | C | C | R | G | C | G | C | R | (Knit these stitches)
| **Row 4 (WS)** | G | G | C | R | G | C | R | C | (Purl these stitches)
| **Row 3 (RS)** | R | C | G | R | C | G | G | C | (Knit these stitches)
| **Row 2 (WS)** | C | R | G | G | C | C | G | R | (Purl these stitches)
| **Row 1 (RS)** | R | G | G | C | C | G | R | C | (Knit these stitches)

## Notes:
1.  This tank top is worked flat in two pieces (Front and Back) and then seamed.
2.  Use the smaller needles for the ribbing and the larger needles for the main body.
3.  When working the Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart, remember to carry your non-working yarn loosely across the back of your work to prevent puckering. Catch floats every 3-5 stitches by twisting them with the working yarn.
4.  Read all instructions for your size before beginning. Numbers for sizes XS (S, M, L, XL) are given in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
5.  When working the chart, work the 8-stitch repeat across the row. For flat panels, exact multiples of the repeat are not strictly necessary as the pattern repeats continuously across the row.

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## Pattern:

### Back:
Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, CO 132 (146, 162, 176, 192) sts.
{XS: (132 sts / 30 sts per 10 cm) * 10 cm = 44 cm / 17.5 in; S: (146 sts / 30 sts per 10 cm) * 10 cm = 48.6 cm / 19.1 in; M: (162 sts / 30 sts per 10 cm) * 10 cm = 54 cm / 21.3 in; L: (176 sts / 30 sts per 10 cm) * 10 cm = 58.6 cm / 23.1 in; XL: (192 sts / 30 sts per 10 cm) * 10 cm = 64 cm / 25.2 in. These widths are half of the desired finished bust circumference, matching calculations.}

**Ribbing:**
Work in 2x2 Rib (K2, P2) for 5 cm (2 inches), ending with a WS row.

**Body:**
Change to 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles.
Begin working the Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart. Work from Row 1 of chart, starting with a RS row, repeating the 8-stitch pattern across the row.
Continue in Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart until piece measures 35 (36, 37, 38, 39) cm / 13.75 (14.25, 14.5, 15, 15.25) inches from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
{Approx. row count for length: XS: 35 cm = 140 rows; S: 36 cm = 144 rows; M: 37 cm = 148 rows; L: 38 cm = 152 rows; XL: 39 cm = 156 rows. All approximate based on 40 rows/10 cm tension.}

**Shape Armholes:**
**Next 2 rows (RS & WS):** BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at beginning of row.
{Remaining sts after BO: XS: 132 - (2*4) = 124 sts; S: 146 - (2*4) = 138 sts; M: 162 - (2*5) = 152 sts; L: 176 - (2*5) = 166 sts; XL: 192 - (2*6) = 180 sts.}
**Dec Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in chart to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. (2 sts decreased)
Rep Dec Row every RS row 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) more times.
{Total decreases: (7+1) * 2 = 16 (XS), (8+1) * 2 = 18 (S), (9+1) * 2 = 20 (M), (10+1) * 2 = 22 (L), (11+1) * 2 = 24 (XL) sts.}
{Remaining sts after decreases: XS: 124 - 16 = 108 sts; S: 138 - 18 = 120 sts; M: 152 - 20 = 132 sts; L: 166 - 22 = 144 sts; XL: 180 - 24 = 156 sts.}

Work even in Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart until armhole measures 21 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8.25 (8.25, 8.25, 8.75, 8.75) inches from BO edge, ending with a WS row.

**Shape Shoulders and Back Neck:**
**Next Row (RS):** Work in chart 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts, BO 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts for back neck, work in chart to end of row 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) sts.
{Stitch count validation: XS: 32 + 44 + 32 = 108 sts; S: 36 + 48 + 36 = 120 sts; M: 40 + 52 + 40 = 132 sts; L: 44 + 56 + 44 = 144 sts; XL: 48 + 60 + 48 = 156 sts. All counts match previous row's remaining stitches before neck shaping.}
You now have two separate shoulder sections. Work each side separately.
**Shoulder Shaping (for each side):**
**Next Row (WS):** Purl to end.
**Next Row (RS):** BO 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work in chart to end. {Remaining: XS: 24; S: 27; M: 30; L: 33; XL: 36 sts.}
**Next Row (WS):** BO 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work in chart to end. {Remaining: XS: 16; S: 18; M: 20; L: 22; XL: 24 sts.}
**Next Row (RS):** BO 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work in chart to end. {Remaining: XS: 8; S: 9; M: 10; L: 11; XL: 12 sts.}
**Next Row (WS):** BO remaining 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts.
{Total BOs for each shoulder: XS: 4*8=32; S: 4*9=36; M: 4*10=40; L: 4*11=44; XL: 4*12=48. This matches the shoulder stitches for each side before shaping.}

### Front:
Work exactly as for Back until armhole shaping is complete and 108 (120, 132, 144, 156) sts remain.
Work even in Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart for 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) cm / 2.25 (2.25, 3, 3, 4) inches, ending with a WS row.
{Approx. row count for length: XS/S: 6cm = 24 rows; M/L: 8cm = 32 rows; XL: 10cm = 40 rows. Based on 40 rows/10cm.}

**Shape Front Neck:**
**Next Row (RS):** Work 38 (42, 47, 51, 56) sts in chart, pm, work 32 (36, 38, 42, 44) sts in chart and place these sts on a holder, pm, work to end.
{Stitch count validation: XS: 38 + 32 + 38 = 108 sts; S: 42 + 36 + 42 = 120 sts; M: 47 + 38 + 47 = 132 sts; L: 51 + 42 + 51 = 144 sts; XL: 56 + 44 + 56 = 156 sts. All counts match previous row's remaining stitches.}
You now have two separate shoulder sections. Work each side separately.

**Dec Row (RS, neck edge):**
*   **For Left Shoulder (working towards neck edge from armhole):** K1, ssk, work in chart to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, K1. (This is for a V-neck, not a crew neck. Revisit for crew neck)
*   **For Crew Neck:**
    *   **Right Shoulder (working from centre neck to armhole):** Work in chart to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1.
    *   **Left Shoulder (working from armhole to centre neck):** K1, ssk, work in chart to end.
    Rep Dec Row every RS row 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) more times.
{Total decreases (7 repetitions for XS, 8 for S/M, 9 for L, 10 for XL) for each side of neck (including the setup row if counted, which it isn't here, so actual decreases are 7 for XS, etc.)}
{Remaining sts after decreases: XS: 38 - 7 = 31 sts; S: 42 - 8 = 34 sts; M: 47 - 8 = 39 sts; L: 51 - 9 = 42 sts; XL: 56 - 10 = 46 sts. (Total 7, 8, 8, 9, 10 decreases respectively at neck edge).}

Work even in Tortoiseshell Pattern Chart until armhole measures 21 (21, 21, 22, 22) cm / 8.25 (8.25, 8.25, 8.75, 8.75) inches from BO edge, ending with a WS row.

**Shape Shoulders:**
**Next Row (RS, armhole edge):** BO 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, work in chart to end. (Work this on the armhole side)
**Next Row (WS, neck edge):** Purl to end.
Rep these 2 rows 2 more times (total of 3 BOs).
{Remaining sts after 3 BOs: XS: 31 - (3*8) = 7 sts; S: 34 - (3*9) = 7 sts; M: 39 - (3*10) = 9 sts; L: 42 - (3*11) = 9 sts; XL: 46 - (3*12) = 10 sts.}
**Next Row (RS, armhole edge):** BO remaining 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) sts.
{Total BOs for each shoulder matches initial shoulder stitches: XS: 7 + 3*8 = 31; S: 7 + 3*9 = 34; M: 9 + 3*10 = 39; L: 9 + 3*11 = 42; XL: 10 + 3*12 = 46. All correct.}

### Finishing:

1.  **Blocking:** Gently block both Front and Back pieces to their finished measurements. Pin them out to dry, ensuring the colourwork lies flat and the edges are straight. This is crucial for precise seaming and for the colourwork to "bloom."
2.  **Seaming Shoulders:** Place Front and Back pieces RS together. Seam shoulders using the 3-needle bind off or mattress stitch for a neat finish.
3.  **Seaming Sides:** Seam side edges using mattress stitch. Ensure the colourwork rows align perfectly.
4.  **Armhole Bands:**
    *   Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, pick up and knit approximately 108 (112, 116, 120, 124) stitches evenly around each armhole opening. Use a stitch count that is a multiple of 4 for 2x2 ribbing.
    *   Work in 2x2 Rib for 2.5 cm (1 inch).
    *   BO all stitches loosely in pattern.
5.  **Neckband:**
    *   Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, place the held Front neck stitches back onto a needle. Pick up and knit stitches evenly around the entire neckline (along the curved front neck, across the remaining front neck stitches, and along the back neck bind-off edge). Aim for approximately 112 (120, 128, 136, 144) stitches, ensuring it's a multiple of 4 for 2x2 ribbing.
    *   Work in 2x2 Rib for 2.5 cm (1 inch).
    *   BO all stitches loosely in pattern.
6.  **Weave in Ends:** Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely on the wrong side of your work.

Enjoy your unique Tortoiseshell Wing Tank Top!