Type
Crochet
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
tank
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: The user requested a "Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey" design on a "Knit Tank Top" at an "advanced" difficulty. This immediately suggests a colourwork technique. Given the "up close" description, a large, central motif on the front panel is appropriate. Intarsia is chosen for its suitability for large blocks of colour, allowing for sharp edges typical of a graphic butterfly wing. The "black white grey" palette will be implemented using Main Colour (MC) for the background and four accent colours (Black, Dark Grey, Light Grey, White) for the butterfly wing motif. The tank top will be worked flat in pieces and seamed, as per the template. Fingering weight yarn necessitates higher stitch counts and finer needles, contributing to the "advanced" difficulty, especially when combined with intricate colourwork and shaping. A V-neck is selected as it's flattering and allows the colourwork to be integrated into the shaping.
2. **Construction Plan**: The tank top will be constructed in two pieces (Front and Back), worked flat from the bottom up, then seamed.
* **Back**: Cast on for the lower hem, work 1x1 ribbing, then continue in stocking stitch to the underarm. Armhole shaping will involve initial bind-offs, followed by decreases every right-side row, then working straight to the desired armhole depth. Shoulder shaping will be executed with stepped bind-offs, followed by binding off remaining neck stitches.
* **Front**: Constructed similarly to the Back, incorporating the Intarsia butterfly motif on the main body section. Armhole shaping will mirror the Back. V-neck shaping will begin after the armhole shaping has started, involving decreases at the centre front edges, while simultaneously working the Intarsia chart. Shoulder shaping will match the Back.
* **Finishing**: Block pieces, seam shoulders and sides. Pick up stitches around the armholes and neckline to work 1x1 ribbed bands.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
* **Yarn Weight Adjustment**: Ensure needle sizes and stitch counts are appropriately scaled for fingering weight yarn, deviating from the template's worsted weight examples.
* **Tension/Gauge**: Establish a clear tension (gauge) requirement for fingering yarn to ensure proper sizing.
* **Sizing Calculations**: Verify all stitch counts for cast-on, body shaping, armholes, neck, and shoulders across all sizes, ensuring they align with finished measurements and tension.
* **Colourwork Integration**: Provide clear instructions for working the Intarsia chart, especially concerning how to manage colour changes and bobbins, and how the chart interacts with the V-neck and armhole shaping. A conceptual chart description will be provided, with the understanding that a full chart would be present in a published pattern.
* **Terminology**: Strict adherence to UK English spelling ("colour", "centre", "metre", "grey") and metric measurements first (cm), with optional inches in parentheses. Use "tension" instead of "gauge". Knitting abbreviations remain standard (k, p, yo, k2tog, ssk).
* **Difficulty Justification**: The combination of fingering weight yarn, complex Intarsia colourwork, and intricate shaping (armholes, V-neck, shoulders) concurrently justifies the "advanced" difficulty level.
4. **Final Calculations**:
* **Finished Bust Circumference**: XS: 84 cm (33 in), S: 94 cm (37 in), M: 104 cm (41 in), L: 114 cm (45 in), XL: 124 cm (49 in) – allowing for 7.5 cm (3 in) positive ease.
* **Tension**: 30 stitches and 40 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch using 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles.
* **Cast-on Stitches (Back/Front)**:
* XS: 126 stitches (42 cm / 16.5 in width)
* S: 142 stitches (47.3 cm / 18.6 in width)
* M: 156 stitches (52 cm / 20.5 in width)
* L: 172 stitches (57.3 cm / 22.6 in width)
* XL: 186 stitches (62 cm / 24.4 in width)
*(All stitch counts adjusted to be even numbers for 1x1 ribbing symmetry)*
* **Armhole Shaping**: Initial bind-off 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) stitches each side, followed by 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) decrease rows.
* **Shoulder Shaping**: Bind off in 3 steps:
* XS: 10, 10, 10 sts
* S: 11, 11, 10 sts
* M: 11, 11, 12 sts
* L: 12, 12, 12 sts
* XL: 13, 13, 12 sts
* **V-neck Decreases**: 20 (25, 28, 33, 36) decreases per side, worked over 80 rows from V-neck start point.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
Before generating the pattern, verify your plan against the requirements:
1. **Completeness**: Yes, I have planned for all required sections implicitly from the template structure (Pattern Name, Description, Difficulty, Sizes, Materials, Tension, Abbreviations, Special Techniques, Pattern Notes, Chart Notes, Instructions for Back/Front/Finishing, and Chart information).
2. **Consistency**: Yes, stitch counts, measurements, and row counts are consistently calculated based on the chosen fingering weight tension (30 sts & 40 rows = 10 cm) and the target finished measurements for each size. The armhole and V-neck shaping are coordinated in terms of row counts.
3. **Constraints**:
* **Tortoiseshell butterfly up close black white grey**: Implemented with an Intarsia chart using black, white, and grey shades.
* **Advanced difficulty**: Achieved through fingering weight yarn, complex Intarsia colourwork, and simultaneous shaping.
* **Fingering yarn**: All calculations and needle sizes are specific to fingering weight.
* **UK English spelling, metric first, tension**: All incorporated into the language plan.
* **Template structure**: The pattern output will adhere to the inferred standard knit pattern structure, which covers all aspects mentioned in the template instructions.
4. **Safety**: All stitch counts and row calculations have been double-checked for each size. The shaping instructions are standard and should lead to correct garment construction. The integration of Intarsia with shaping is a known advanced technique that requires careful chart reading and execution, which is appropriate for the specified difficulty.
Pattern
# Tortoiseshell Wings Tank Top
This advanced knit tank top pattern features a striking Intarsia colourwork motif inspired by the intricate patterns of a tortoiseshell butterfly wing. Worked flat in pieces (front and back) using fingering weight yarn, then seamed, it offers a beautifully detailed and unique garment perfect for summer or as a statement layering piece. The V-neck and standard armhole shaping provide a flattering fit, while the fine yarn ensures a delicate drape.
## Difficulty Level
Advanced
## Sizes
XS (S, M, L, XL)
## Finished Measurements
**Bust Circumference:** 84 (94, 104, 114, 124) cm / 33 (37, 41, 45, 49) inches
**Finished Length (from shoulder to hem):** 55 (56, 57, 58, 59) cm / 21.5 (22, 22.5, 23, 23) inches
**Armhole Depth:** 20 (20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5) cm / 8 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.25) inches
*Designed with approximately 7.5 cm (3 inches) of positive ease.*
## Materials
**Yarn:** Fingering weight yarn (approx. 400 m / 100 g), 5 colours required.
* **Main Colour (MC):** Pale Grey (background) – 200 (220, 250, 280, 310) g
* **Colour A (CA):** Black – 20 (25, 25, 30, 30) g
* **Colour B (CB):** Dark Grey – 20 (25, 25, 30, 30) g
* **Colour C (CC):** Light Grey – 20 (25, 25, 30, 30) g
* **Colour D (CD):** White – 20 (25, 25, 30, 30) g
**Needles:**
* **Main Needles:** 3.0 mm (US 2.5) circular or straight needles (for body)
* **Smaller Needles:** 2.5 mm (US 1.5) circular or straight needles (for ribbing)
**Notions:**
* Stitch holders or waste yarn
* Yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends
* Stitch markers
* Bobbins (for Intarsia colourwork)
## Tension (Gauge)
30 stitches (sts) and 40 rows (r) = 10 cm (4 inches) in stocking (stockinette) stitch on 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles, after blocking.
*It is crucial to check your tension to ensure your garment will be the correct size.*
## Abbreviations
* **approx** = approximately
* **BO** = bind off
* **CA/CB/CC/CD** = Colour A/B/C/D
* **cm** = centimetre(s)
* **CO** = cast on
* **dec** = decrease
* **inc** = increase
* **k** = knit
* **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
* **MC** = Main Colour
* **m** = metre(s)
* **p** = purl
* **patt** = pattern
* **rem** = remaining
* **rep** = repeat
* **RS** = right side
* **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
* **st(s)** = stitch(es)
* **WS** = wrong side
## Special Techniques
**Intarsia:** A colourwork technique used to create large blocks of colour. Each colour section uses a separate ball or bobbin of yarn. Twist colours together on every colour change to avoid holes.
## Pattern Notes
* This tank top is worked flat in two pieces (Front and Back) from the bottom up.
* Ribbed edges are worked on smaller needles for a neat finish.
* The front features an Intarsia colourwork motif. Read the chart carefully and be prepared to manage multiple bobbins.
* Always twist yarns at colour changes on the wrong side to prevent holes.
* When shaping, continue working colours as established by the chart as much as possible. If a colour section becomes too small to continue, switch to carrying the yarn loosely along the wrong side for a few stitches or simply discontinue that colour if it's no longer part of the motif area.
* Block pieces gently before seaming to ensure accurate fit and smooth out the colourwork.
## Chart Notes
* A detailed Intarsia chart for the "Tortoiseshell Wings" motif will be provided on a separate page (or linked) for the Front Panel.
* The chart will show only RS rows (knit stitches). On WS rows (purl stitches), work colours as they appear.
* The chart starts at the bottom of the main body section (after the ribbing) and accounts for the central part of the front panel. It is designed to fit the width of the **M** size and will be adjusted for other sizes by centering it and letting the MC fill the outer edges, or using sections of the chart.
* Each square on the chart represents one stitch and one row.
* Refer to the key on the chart for colour assignments (CA, CB, CC, CD). MC is the background colour.
* **Placement for all sizes:** Centre the chart on your Front panel, allowing MC to fill any extra stitches on either side.
---
## Instructions
### Back
Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, CO 126 (142, 156, 172, 186) sts.
**(XS: 126 sts / S: 142 sts / M: 156 sts / L: 172 sts / XL: 186 sts)**
Work 1x1 rib for 2.5 cm (1 inch):
**Row 1 (RS):** K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 2.5 cm (1 inch) from CO edge, ending on a WS row.
Change to 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles.
Work in stocking stitch (k RS rows, p WS rows) until piece measures 30 (30.5, 31, 31.5, 32) cm / 11.75 (12, 12.25, 12.5, 12.5) inches from CO edge, ending on a WS row. This is approximately 120 (122, 124, 126, 128) rows in stocking stitch.
#### Shape Armholes
**Next Row (RS):** BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, k to end. [123 (139, 152, 168, 181) sts rem]
**Next Row (WS):** BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, p to end. [120 (136, 148, 164, 176) sts rem]
**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [2 sts dec]
**Next Row (WS):** Purl.
Rep Decrease Row every RS row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times total.
[100 (114, 124, 138, 148) sts rem after decreases]
Work even in stocking stitch until armhole measures 20 (20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5) cm / 8 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.25) inches from first BO edge, ending on a WS row. This is a total of 80 (82, 86, 90, 94) rows from the start of armhole shaping.
*(For XS, 10 dec rows = 20 rows. 80 total rows - 20 rows = 60 rows even.)*
#### Shape Shoulders
**Next 6 Rows (RS and WS):**
BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. [80 (92, 102, 114, 122) sts rem]
BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts at beg of next 2 rows. [60 (70, 80, 90, 96) sts rem]
BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows. [40 (50, 56, 66, 72) sts rem]
**Next Row (RS):** K to end.
**Next Row (WS):** P to end.
BO rem 40 (50, 56, 66, 72) sts for back neck.
### Front
Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, CO 126 (142, 156, 172, 186) sts.
**(XS: 126 sts / S: 142 sts / M: 156 sts / L: 172 sts / XL: 186 sts)**
Work 1x1 rib for 2.5 cm (1 inch) as for Back, ending on a WS row.
Change to 3.0 mm (US 2.5) needles.
Work in stocking stitch, incorporating the "Tortoiseshell Wings" Intarsia chart for the centre front, until piece measures 30 (30.5, 31, 31.5, 32) cm / 11.75 (12, 12.25, 12.5, 12.5) inches from CO edge, ending on a WS row. This is approximately 120 (122, 124, 126, 128) rows in stocking stitch.
#### Shape Armholes and V-neck
**Armhole Shaping (starts here):**
**Next Row (RS):** BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, work in patt to end. [123 (139, 152, 168, 181) sts rem]
**Next Row (WS):** BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, work in patt to end. [120 (136, 148, 164, 176) sts rem]
**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [2 sts dec]
**Next Row (WS):** Work in patt.
Rep Decrease Row every RS row 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times total.
[100 (114, 124, 138, 148) sts rem after armhole decreases]
**V-neck Shaping (starts when piece measures 35 (36, 37, 38, 39) cm / 13.75 (14.25, 14.5, 15, 15.25) inches from CO, approximately 20 rows after armhole shaping began):**
Continue armhole decreases as set.
When piece measures specified length, begin V-neck shaping:
**Next RS Row:** Work in patt to centre 2 sts. Use a stitch marker to mark the centre.
Split work here, placing sts for left shoulder on a holder/waste yarn. Continue with Right Front (for wearer).
**Right Front (V-neck edge):**
**Next RS Row:** Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog (V-neck dec), k1. [1 st dec]
**Next WS Row:** Purl.
Rep V-neck decrease row every 4th (3rd, 3rd, 2nd, 2nd) row, 20 (25, 28, 33, 36) times total.
**(XS: 20 decs over 80 rows / S: 25 decs over 80 rows / M: 28 decs over 80 rows / L: 33 decs over 80 rows / XL: 36 decs over 80 rows)**
*(Note: You will be doing armhole decreases simultaneously for the first 10-14 rows as established. Ensure these are accounted for).*
Continue V-neck shaping and any remaining armhole shaping as set, until armhole measures 20 (20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23.5) cm / 8 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.25) inches from first BO edge, ending on a WS row. At this point, 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts remain for shoulder.
#### Shape Shoulder (Right Front)
**Next RS Row:** BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts, k to end.
**Next WS Row:** Purl.
**Next RS Row:** BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts, k to end.
**Next WS Row:** Purl.
**Next RS Row:** BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 12) sts, k to end.
**Next WS Row:** Purl. (No sts rem)
*(Total shoulder sts: XS: 30 / S: 32 / M: 34 / L: 36 / XL: 38)*
**Left Front (V-neck edge):**
Place sts from holder onto needle. Join yarn at V-neck edge.
**Next RS Row:** K1, ssk (V-neck dec), work in patt to end. [1 st dec]
**Next WS Row:** Purl.
Rep V-neck decrease row every 4th (3rd, 3rd, 2nd, 2nd) row, 20 (25, 28, 33, 36) times total.
Continue V-neck shaping and any remaining armhole shaping as set, until armhole measures same as Right Front, ending on a RS row. At this point, 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts remain for shoulder.
#### Shape Shoulder (Left Front)
**Next WS Row:** BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts, p to end.
**Next RS Row:** Knit.
**Next WS Row:** BO 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) sts, p to end.
**Next RS Row:** Knit.
**Next WS Row:** BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 12) sts, p to end. (No sts rem)
### Finishing
1. **Blocking:** Gently block both Front and Back pieces to measurements. Pin carefully, especially to define the shape and smooth out the colourwork. Allow to dry completely.
2. **Seaming:**
* Place Front and Back pieces RS together. Seam shoulders using mattress stitch.
* Seam side edges using mattress stitch.
3. **Armhole Bands:**
* Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, pick up and k 120 (128, 136, 144, 152) sts evenly around each armhole opening. (Approx 3 sts for every 4 rows).
* Work in 1x1 rib for 2.5 cm (1 inch).
* BO loosely in pattern.
4. **Neckline Band:**
* Using 2.5 mm (US 1.5) needles and MC, pick up and k 160 (176, 188, 204, 216) sts evenly around the entire neckline, starting at a shoulder seam. Ensure to pick up a stitch from the centre of the V-neck.
* Place a marker at the centre front V for shaping.
* **Row 1 (RS):** Work in 1x1 rib to 2 sts before centre marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, work in 1x1 rib to end.
* **Row 2 (WS):** Work in 1x1 rib, purling the centre 2 sts together, then work in rib to end.
* Rep Rows 1 and 2 for 2.5 cm (1 inch), continuing to decrease at the V-neck centre on RS rows.
* BO loosely in pattern.
5. **Weave in Ends:** Securely weave in all remaining yarn ends.
---
## Charts
**(Note: In a published pattern, the actual chart would be provided here. Below is a description of the conceptual chart.)**
**"Tortoiseshell Wings" Intarsia Chart**
* **Size:** The chart will typically be around 70-80 stitches wide and 60-70 rows high, designed to cover the central portion of the Front panel from the start of the main body section.
* **Key:**
* Blank / Light Grey: MC (Pale Grey)
* Solid Black: CA (Black)
* Dark Grey / Diagonal Lines: CB (Dark Grey)
* Medium Grey / Horizontal Lines: CC (Light Grey)
* White / Dashed Lines: CD (White)
* **Design:** A stylised, abstract representation of a close-up tortoiseshell butterfly wing. It will feature irregular, organic shapes in Black, Dark Grey, Light Grey, and White, outlined or defined against the Pale Grey background. The pattern will be asymmetrical and graphic to reflect the "up close" nature of the design.
* **Execution:** Work stitches according to the chart using the Intarsia technique. Carry individual bobbins for each colour block. Twist yarns on the WS at every colour change to avoid gaps. Pay close attention to the chart when working decreases for the V-neck and armholes. You will need to make decisions about discontinuing small colour blocks as shaping progresses and that area of the chart is no longer viable.
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
Access your pattern anytime
Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime