purlJam

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# TUCK STITCH SAMPLER
### A Beginner Machine Knitting Practice Panel

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## DESCRIPTION

This sampler teaches the **tuck stitch** — one of the most useful and satisfying techniques in machine knitting. Tuck stitch works by holding selected needles in the **upper working position (E/Hold position)** for two rows so the carriage lays yarn across them without knitting it off. When those needles are returned to working position and knitted, the accumulated loops create a raised, textured bump on the fabric surface.

This project produces an **8-inch × 10-inch (20 cm × 25 cm) swatch panel** using a classic **alternating (checkerboard) tuck pattern** — a simple 4-row repeat that creates an attractive all-over bobble texture. It is designed for main bed only; no ribber is required.

Completing this sampler will give you a reference swatch for your yarn and machine, practice with needle selection, and a reusable fabric piece (great for a small pocket, mug mat, or display swatch).

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | Worsted weight (CYCA #4), smooth, plied yarn recommended |
| **Yardage** | Approx. 100 yards (92 m) total — includes waste yarn |
| **Main Color (MC)** | ~80 yards (73 m) |
| **Waste Yarn** | ~20 yards (18 m) — contrast color, similar weight or slightly lighter |
| **Machine Type** | Standard gauge (4.5 mm) single-bed machine (Brother, Silver Reed/Studio, Pfaff, or equivalent) |
| **Ribber Required** | No |
| **Punchcard / Electronic** | Optional — manual needle selection instructions provided; punchcard and electronic notes included |

> **Yarn Tip:** Choose a smooth, plied worsted — avoid fuzzy or textured yarns for your first tuck swatch, as they obscure the stitch definition and are harder to re-knit if something goes wrong.

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## TOOLS REQUIRED

- Cast-on comb (standard width)
- Ravel cord (or smooth yarn in a bright contrast color)
- Claw weights (2–4 recommended for worsted weight)
- Needle pusher or single-transfer tool (for manual needle selection)
- Latch tool (for bind-off)
- Row counter (on machine or separate counter)
- Yarn winder or butterfly bobbin (optional)
- Tape measure
- Steam iron and blocking pins (for finishing)

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## TENSION / GAUGE

> ⚠️ **Always knit a tension swatch before starting.** Tuck stitches accumulate extra yarn; the gauge below accounts for this. Your tension may differ by ±1 dial number depending on your specific yarn and machine.

| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| **Main Tension Dial** | **T9** |
| **Stitch Gauge** | 16 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm) — **4 sts per inch** |
| **Row Gauge** | 22 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) — **5.5 rows per inch** |
| **Tuck rows are included in row gauge** | Yes — measured over 4-row tuck repeat |

> **Why T9 for worsted?** Standard gauge machines are designed for 4-ply/fingering weight. Worsted requires a significantly looser tension (T8–T10). T9 is the recommended starting point; adjust until your swatch measures correctly. If loops are dropping off needles, tighten by ½ dial. If fabric is stiff or carriage is hard to push, loosen by ½ dial.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Dimension | Measurement |
|---|---|
| **Width (after blocking)** | 8 inches (20 cm) |
| **Length (after blocking)** | Approx. 10 inches (25 cm) |
| **Stitches on needle** | **32 stitches** |
| **Total main rows** | **56 rows** (14 complete 4-row repeats) |

**Math Check:**
- Width: 32 sts ÷ 4 sts/in = **8.0 inches** ✓
- Length: 56 rows ÷ 5.5 rows/in = **10.2 inches ≈ 10 inches** ✓
- Pattern repeat: 56 rows ÷ 4-row repeat = **14 repeats exactly** ✓

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## ABBREVIATIONS & MACHINE KNITTING TERMS

| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **B position** | Basic working position — needle tip at front edge of gate pegs; knits normally |
| **E position** | Upper working position (also called Hold or UWP) — needle pushed forward until latch is past the gate peg; yarn is tucked but old loop is NOT knocked off |
| **COL** | Carriage on Left — carriage is at the left end of the bed before next pass |
| **COR** | Carriage on Right — carriage is at the right end of the bed before next pass |
| **RC** | Row Counter — the number displayed on your row counter |
| **T9** | Tension dial set to 9 |
| **MC** | Main Color yarn |
| **WY** | Waste Yarn |
| **RC 000** | Row counter reset to zero |
| **K** | Knit — pass carriage across the bed |
| **Tuck pass** | Carriage pass with selected needles in E position; yarn is added to those needles without knitting off |
| **Plain knit pass** | Carriage pass with ALL needles in B position; all stitches knit normally |
| **1x1 tuck** | Every other needle is in E (tuck) position, alternating |
| **4-row repeat** | The repeating unit of this tuck pattern: 2 tuck passes + 2 plain knit passes |
| **EON** | Every Other Needle |
| **Latch-tool BO** | Bind-off using a latch tool to chain stitches off the machine |

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## MACHINE SETUP

### Step 1 — Needle Selection for Cast-On
Bring **32 needles** into working position (B position):
- Needles **16L through 16R** (16 needles left of center 0, plus 16 needles right of center 0)
- All 32 needles should be in **B position**

> **Note on needle numbering:** On most standard gauge machines, needles are numbered outward from center 0. Needle 1L is immediately left of center; needle 16L is the 16th needle to the left. Mirror image on the right. If your machine numbers needles from 1 to 200, bring in 32 consecutive needles centered on the machine.

### Step 2 — Carriage Settings for Cast-On
- Set **both carriage levers/buttons to normal knit (N/K position)** — no tuck, no slip, no hold
- Confirm the **Part/Hold lever is OFF**
- Confirm the **Slip lever is OFF**
- Tension dial at **T9**
- Position carriage at **right (COR)**

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1 — WASTE YARN CAST-ON

**Purpose:** Creates a temporary foundation that allows you to remove the finished piece cleanly from the machine.

1. Thread **waste yarn (WY)** through the yarn feeder (tension mast and yarn carriage feeder).
2. COR. Lay **ravel cord** across all 32 needles in B position, resting it in the needle hooks. The ravel cord sits loosely in the hooks — it is NOT threaded through the feeder.
3. Hang **cast-on comb** below the needle bed, hooks upward, along the ravel cord. Secure comb weights.
4. **Pass carriage COR → COL** to begin knitting. The waste yarn will wrap around needles. Row counter does NOT start yet — leave RC at whatever number it shows (or set to 000 and count waste rows separately).
5. **Knit 8 rows in WY** (4 passes right-to-left and left-to-right). After 8 rows, the comb should be hanging securely below the bed.
   - After 8th WY row: **Carriage at left (COL)**
6. Add **claw weights** evenly across the comb — 2 minimum, 4 preferred.

> **Tip:** If your cast-on comb is not catching properly, try the e-wrap cast-on instead: e-wrap all 32 needles with WY, hang the comb, then knit 6–8 rows of WY.

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### SECTION 2 — TRANSITION TO MAIN YARN & SETUP ROWS

7. **Cut WY**, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. Thread **MC (main color, worsted weight)** through the feeder.
8. Verify: Tension dial at **T9**. All carriage levers set to **normal knit (N)**. COL.
9. **Reset row counter to RC 000.**
10. **COL → COR: Knit 2 plain rows in MC** (plain stockinette, all needles in B position). These are your setup rows.
    - After Row 1 (COL→COR): **RC 001, COR**
    - After Row 2 (COR→COL): **RC 002, COL**

> These 2 setup rows establish the fabric base before the tuck pattern begins. Check that stitches are even and tension looks correct. The fabric should hang smoothly below the bed. Add weights if needed.

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### SECTION 3 — TUCK STITCH PATTERN (4-ROW REPEAT × 14 TIMES)

> **Before you begin:** Read the entire tuck pattern section and the Tuck Technique Notes below before knitting.

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#### ⬡ TUCK TECHNIQUE NOTES

**Understanding E Position (Hold):**
Push a needle forward until its latch passes through to the front side of the gate peg and the hook is approximately 1 inch (2.5 cm) in front of the needle bed. This is **E position (Upper Working Position)**. The carriage will lay yarn into the hook of this needle but will NOT push the old loop off — it accumulates.

**Two-Row Maximum:**
Never leave needles in E position (tucking) for more than **2 consecutive carriage passes** with worsted weight on a standard gauge machine. More than 2 tuck passes risks:
- Dropped stitches (loops falling off)
- Carriage jamming
- Uneven or broken yarn

**Carriage Setting During Tuck Passes:**
The **Brother/Silver Reed carriage does NOT need to be switched to a special tuck setting** when you manually select needles to E position — the carriage in normal knit (N) position will automatically tuck any needle it finds in E/UWP. Just ensure:
- Slip is **OFF**
- Part/Hold is **OFF**
- Carriage in normal **N/K** position
- The carriage will tuck E-position needles and knit B-position needles in a single pass.

**Punchcard Users:**
- Use a **Card with a 2-stitch repeat**: 1 punched hole alternating with 1 blank space across the card row.
- Lock card on **Row 1** before beginning the tuck pattern.
- Set KC lever to **KC I** (card advance) and set cam levers to **Tuck** on the side that will select needles.
- The card automatically selects every other needle for tuck on each pass.
- See Punchcard Reference section at the end of the pattern.

**Electronic Machine Users:**
- Program pattern: **2 stitches wide × 2 rows tall**, alternating needle selection (checkerboard).
- Set machine to Tuck stitch mode.
- See Electronic Machine Reference section at the end of the pattern.

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#### 4-ROW TUCK REPEAT STRUCTURE

| Row in Repeat | Needle Selection | Carriage Action | Effect |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Row A** | **ODD** needles → E position | Tuck pass (normal N setting) | Yarn tucked onto odd needles; even needles knit |
| **Row B** | **ODD** needles → E position (same as Row A) | Tuck pass (normal N setting) | Second yarn loop tucked onto odd needles |
| **Row C** | **ALL** needles → B position | Plain knit pass | Odd needles knit off 2 tuck loops + their stitch; even needles knit normally |
| **Row D** | **EVEN** needles → E position | Tuck pass (normal N setting) | Yarn tucked onto even needles; odd needles knit |

> **Note:** In this pattern, Row D of Repeat #1 becomes the same as Row A of Repeat #2 for the "even needle" cycle, but then Row B of that cycle continues the even-needle tuck before a full plain row. See below for the full written-out sequence to avoid confusion.

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### FULL TUCK PATTERN SEQUENCE

> Begin at **RC 002, COL** (after the 2 plain setup rows).

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#### REPEAT 1 OF 14 (RC 003–RC 006)

**RC 003 — Row 1 of Repeat (ODD Tuck Pass 1)**
- COR. Before knitting, push **all ODD-numbered needles** to **E position**:
  Needles 1L, 3L, 5L, 7L, 9L, 11L, 13L, 15L (left side) and 1R, 3R, 5R, 7R, 9R, 11R, 13R, 15R (right side) = **16 needles total in E position**
  Even-numbered needles (2L, 4L... 2R, 4R... = 16 needles) remain in **B position**
- Verify carriage levers: N/K, Slip OFF, Part OFF. Tension **T9**.
- **Knit: COR → COL.** Carriage tucks yarn onto 16 odd needles; 16 even needles knit normally.
- Advance RC to **003. COL.**

**RC 004 — Row 2 of Repeat (ODD Tuck Pass 2)**
- COL. Check that the **16 odd needles are still in E position** (they should be — the carriage does not push them back). If any have slipped back to B position, push them forward to E again.
- **Knit: COL → COR.** Second tuck loop laid onto odd needles.
- Advance RC to **004. COR.**

**RC 005 — Row 3 of Repeat (Plain Knit — knits off ODD tuck loops)**
- COR. Push **all 32 needles to B position.** No needles should be in E position.
- **Knit: COR → COL.** All 32 stitches knit off normally. Odd needles knit off their 2 accumulated tuck loops plus original stitch, creating a raised tuck bump. Even needles knit off normally.
- Advance RC to **005. COL.**

**RC 006 — Row 4 of Repeat (EVEN Tuck Pass 1)**
- COL. Push **all EVEN-numbered needles** to **E position**:
  Needles 2L, 4L, 6L, 8L, 10L, 12L, 14L, 16L (left) and 2R, 4R, 6R, 8R, 10R, 12R, 14R, 16R (right) = **16 needles total in E position**
  Odd needles remain in **B position.**
- **Knit: COL → COR.** Yarn tucked onto 16 even needles; 16 odd needles knit normally.
- Advance RC to **006. COR.**

> ✅ **End of Repeat 1. RC 006. COR.**

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#### REPEAT 2 OF 14 (RC 007–RC 010)

**RC 007 — Row 1 of Repeat (EVEN Tuck Pass 2)**
- COR. Check that **16 even needles are still in E position.** Re-push any that slipped back.
- **Knit: COR → COL.** Second tuck loop onto even needles.
- Advance RC to **007. COL.**

**RC 008 — Row 2 of Repeat (Plain Knit — knits off EVEN tuck loops)**
- COL. Push **all 32 needles to B position.**
- **Knit: COL → COR.** All 32 stitches knit off. Even needles create tuck bumps.
- Advance RC to **008. COR.**

**RC 009 — Row 3 of Repeat (ODD Tuck Pass 1)**
- COR. Push **all ODD needles to E position** (16 needles).
- **Knit: COR → COL.**
- Advance RC to **009. COL.**

**RC 010 — Row 4 of Repeat (ODD Tuck Pass 2)**
- COL. Odd needles still in E position.
- **Knit: COL → COR.**
- Advance RC to **010. COR.**

> ✅ **End of Repeat 2. RC 010. COR.**

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### CONTINUING THE PATTERN — QUICK REFERENCE CHART

Once you understand the two-repeat cycle above, the pattern continues. Use this chart as your guide. **ODD = odd-numbered needles in E; EVEN = even-numbered needles in E; PLAIN = all needles in B.**

| RC | Direction | Needle Selection | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| 003 | COR→COL | ODD → E | Tuck Pass |
| 004 | COL→COR | ODD → E | Tuck Pass |
| 005 | COR→COL | ALL → B | Plain Knit |
| 006 | COL→COR | EVEN → E | Tuck Pass |
| 007 | COR→COL | EVEN → E | Tuck Pass |
| 008 | COL→COR | ALL → B | Plain Knit |
| 009 | COR→COL | ODD → E | Tuck Pass |
| 010 | COL→COR | ODD → E | Tuck Pass |
| 011 | COR→COL | ALL → B | Plain Knit |
| 012 | COL→COR | EVEN → E | Tuck Pass |
| 013 | COR→COL | EVEN → E | Tuck Pass |
| 014 | COL→COR | ALL → B | Plain Knit |

> **Pattern:** The 4-row repeat cycles as follows: ODD Tuck / ODD Tuck / Plain / EVEN Tuck — then continues: EVEN Tuck / Plain / ODD Tuck / ODD Tuck / Plain / EVEN Tuck / EVEN Tuck / Plain... etc.

> **Shortcut:** Think of it as: every PLAIN row is at RC 005, 008, 011, 014, 017, 020, 023, 026, 029, 032, 035, 038, 041, 044, 047, 050, 053, 056 — every 3rd row from RC 005 onward alternates plain. Actually more cleanly: Plain rows occur at RC 005, 008, 011, 014... (every 3rd row starting RC 005). Tuck needles alternate ODD/ODD before each EVEN plain, EVEN/EVEN before each ODD plain.

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### CHECKPOINT ROWS — RC MILESTONES

| Milestone | RC | Repeats Done | Approx. Knitted Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| After Setup rows | 002 | 0 of 14 | ~0.4 in (1 cm) |
| After Repeat 1 | 006 | 1 of 14 | ~1.1 in (2.8 cm) |
| **Midpoint check** | **030** | **7 of 14** | **~5.1 in (13 cm)** |
| After Repeat 14 | **058** | 14 of 14 | **~10.2 in (26 cm)** |

> **At RC 030 (midpoint):** Stop and check: (1) Tuck bumps are visible on both faces of the fabric alternating in a checkerboard pattern. (2) No dropped stitches. (3) Tension looks even. (4) Hanging weights are still providing downward tension — move weights up every 20 rows.

> **Weights reminder:** Move claw weights up toward the needle bed every 15–20 rows. As fabric grows, weights hanging too low lose effectiveness, causing uneven tension or dropped stitches.

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### SECTION 4 — COMPLETING THE FINAL REPEAT

Continue the tuck pattern until **RC 058, COR** (or COL depending on your last row direction — adjust as needed so that you complete a full plain-knit row as the final row before bind-off).

> **Final 2 rows (RC 057–058): Knit 2 plain rows** (all needles in B position, normal N setting, T9) to finish the piece neatly. These mirror the 2 setup rows at the beginning and give a clean edge.

After final plain row:
- **RC 058. COL** (or COR — position is now ready for bind-off)

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### SECTION 5 — BIND-OFF (LATCH TOOL METHOD)

The **latch-tool bind-off** (also called chain bind-off) creates a stretchy, clean edge suitable for this sampler.

1. Cut MC yarn, leaving a **24-inch (61 cm) tail** for working the bind-off.
2. Thread the tail onto a blunt tapestry needle and set aside (you'll use it to secure the last loop).
3. Remove the machine yarn from the feeder.
4. Transfer the stitch from the **leftmost needle** onto the latch tool hook.
5. Reach across to the **next needle to the right**, catch that stitch with the latch tool, and pull it through the loop on the latch tool hook — one stitch bound off, one stitch remains on latch tool.
6. Continue across all 32 needles, working left to right (or right to left — be consistent), binding off each stitch through the previous.
7. When all 32 stitches are chained off, one loop remains on the latch tool. Thread the MC tail through this final loop and pull snug to close.
8. Weave in the MC tail securely on the wrong side.

> **Tip:** For a looser, more even bind-off edge, work the latch-tool bind-off at **T10** — loosen your tension dial one click after cutting the yarn, then work the bind-off. This prevents the bound-off edge from pulling tighter than the rest of the fabric.

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### SECTION 6 — REMOVING FROM MACHINE & RAVEL CORD

9. Once bound off, gently **slide the fabric off the machine** — it will still be attached to the waste yarn at the cast-on end.
10. On a flat surface, locate the **ravel cord** (the smooth cord you laid across the needles at the very beginning). It sits between the waste yarn section and the MC fabric.
11. **Gently pull the ravel cord** — it should slide out cleanly, releasing the waste yarn from the MC fabric in one motion.
12. Remove the waste yarn. You will see the **live cast-on loops** exposed at the cast-on end.
13. These loops can be left as-is (a loopy edge), or worked with a **latch tool** in the same chain bind-off method to create a matching edge.

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## FINISHING

### Weave In Ends
- Weave in the MC starting tail at the cast-on edge (where you switched from WY to MC).
- Weave in the MC bind-off tail at the top edge.
- Use a blunt tapestry needle. Work ends on the **wrong side** (the side with less visible tuck bumps — or whichever side you prefer as the inside).

### Blocking
Tuck stitch fabric benefits greatly from blocking — it evens the texture and opens up the tuck bumps beautifully.

1. Fill a basin with **cool water** and a drop of wool wash (if using wool yarn).
2. Submerge the sampler and gently press — do not agitate or wring.
3. Remove, roll in a clean towel, and press firmly to absorb water.
4. **Pin to measurements** (8" × 10") on a blocking board or foam mat, using T-pins at intervals.
5. Allow to **dry completely** — 12–24 hours depending on humidity.
6. Alternatively, **steam block**: pin to measurements while dry, hold steam iron 1 inch (2.5 cm) above fabric, and apply steam. Do NOT press iron directly onto fabric. Allow to cool before unpinning.

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## TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

| Problem | Likely Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Carriage hard to push | Tension too tight; too many needles in E | Loosen tension ½ dial; check no more than 16 needles in E at once |
| Stitches dropping off in E position | Tension too loose; not enough weight | Tighten ½ dial; move weights up closer to bed |
| Tuck bumps not visible | Tension too tight; tuck rows not holding | Loosen tension; ensure needles fully in E position (latch past gate peg) |
| Uneven tuck texture | Inconsistent needle position | Double-check all E-position needles are fully forward before each tuck pass |
| Holes in fabric near tuck stitches | Tension too loose | Tighten ½ dial; try T8.5 |
| Fabric pulling sideways | Uneven weighting | Redistribute claw weights evenly; add more weights |

---

## PUNCHCARD REFERENCE (Brother KH-910, KH-940, KH-830, or similar)

For Brother punchcard machines using a **24-stitch repeat card:**

**Card Design:**
Punch the following pattern on a blank card — this is a simple 2-stitch repeat across 24 stitches (the standard card width), 2 rows tall:

```
Row 2: ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ ·  (punch: holes at positions 1,3,5,7... odd)
Row 1: · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○ · ○  (punch: holes at positions 2,4,6,8... even)

(○ = punched hole; · = no hole)
```

**Machine Setup for Punchcard Tuck:**
- Insert card and lock on **Row 1**
- Set **KC lever to KC I** (card advances each row)
- Set cam levers to **Tuck (T)** on both sides
- Set tension to **T9**
- Card automatically advances and selects needles for tuck — no manual needle pushing required
- Carriage passes are worked normally; the card controls selection
- The card will repeat across your 32 needles (32 ÷ 2 = 16 full repeats of the 2-stitch pattern) ✓

---

## ELECTRONIC MACHINE REFERENCE (Brother KH-950i, 970, or similar)

**Program the following pattern** (2 stitches wide × 2 rows tall):

```
Row 2: ■ □   (■ = selected/tucked; □ = not selected)
Row 1: □ ■
```

This creates an alternating checkerboard selection identical to the manual method.

- Set **Stitch Pattern Mode to Tuck**
- Set working width to cover needles 16L–16R
- Set tension to **T9**
- The machine will automatically select needles each row

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## QUICK-START SUMMARY (Experienced Knitters)

1. CO 32 sts on WY + ravel cord, T9
2. Switch to MC, knit 2 plain rows, RC 000→002
3. Work 14 repeats of 4-row tuck pattern:
   - 2 rows ODD needles in E (tuck)
   - 2 rows EVEN needles in E (tuck) — with plain row between each 2-needle-set sequence (see full chart)
4. Knit 2 plain rows, RC →058
5. Latch-tool bind-off, 32 sts
6. Remove, pull ravel cord, weave ends, block

**Finished size:** 8 in × 10 in (20 cm × 25 cm) after blocking
**Gauge:** 16 sts / 4 in, 22 rows / 4 in at T9 in worsted

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*Pattern designed for beginner machine knitters on standard gauge (4.5 mm) single-bed machines.*
*Techniques introduced: waste yarn cast-on, ravel cord removal, manual needle selection to E position, tuck stitch, latch-tool bind-off, steam blocking.*

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