purlJam

# Tuck Stitch Sleeveless Tank
**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate
**Machine**: Standard Gauge (4.5mm) with Ribber
**Yarn**: DK Weight (approx. 250-300g for Size M)
**Tension Settings**: 
- Main Bed (Tuck): T6
- Ribber (1x1 Rib): T4/4
- Stockinette (Edges): T5

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### GAUGE (Tuck Stitch, Tension 6)
- 18 stitches = 10 cm (4")
- 27 rows = 10 cm (4")
*(Math check: 1 stitch = 0.55 cm; 1 row = 0.37 cm)*

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### SIZING (Medium)
- **Finished Bust**: 100 cm (40")
- **Length**: 55.5 cm (22")
- **Armhole Depth**: 22 cm (8.7")

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### MACHINE SETUP
1. **Needles**: Arrange 45-0-45 (90 stitches total) in 1x1 rib configuration.
2. **Yarn**: Thread DK yarn. 
3. **Pattern**: Engage Punchcard (Standard Tuck #1 or #3) or select electronic tuck pattern.
4. **Tools**: Cast-on comb, large weights, 1-2-3 needle transfer tools.

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### BACK
1. **Hem (1x1 Rib)**:
   - Set Tension to 3/3 for cast-on.
   - Cast on 90 stitches (45-0-45).
   - Work 3 circular rows for a clean edge.
   - Set Tension to 4/4. Work 14 rows in 1x1 rib.
   - **RC 015**. Transfer all ribber stitches to the main bed.

2. **Main Body (Tuck Stitch)**:
   - Change carriage to Main Bed only.
   - Change Tension to **T6**. 
   - Set carriage to **TUCK** (Both tuck buttons/levers engaged). 
   - *Note: Keep the 2 outermost needles on each side in Work (B position) but ensure they do not tuck for easier seaming. Use the "End Needle Selection" (KCII) if available.*
   - Knit even to **RC 090** (approx. 33 cm). **COR**.

3. **Armhole Shaping**:
   - Change carriage to Stockinette (Plain) for shaping rows to ensure stability.
   - **RC 090**: Bind off 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows (82 sts rem).
   - **RC 092**: Bind off 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows (76 sts rem).
   - **RC 094**: Bind off 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows (72 sts rem).
   - **RC 096**: Decrease 1 st each side (using 2-needle transfer tool for fully fashioned edge) every RC until 66 stitches remain.
   - **RC 102**: Shaping complete. Return to Tuck Stitch (T6).
   - Knit even to **RC 140**.

4. **Shoulder & Back Neck**:
   - **RC 140**: **COR**. Bind off center 26 stitches for the back neck.
   - Work each side separately (20 stitches per shoulder).
   - **Shoulder Slope**: Bind off 7 sts at armhole edge, then 7, then 6.
   - **RC 150**: All stitches bound off.

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### FRONT
1. **Hem & Body**: 
   - Repeat all instructions for BACK from **RC 000** to **RC 120**. (66 stitches on bed, Tuck stitch pattern active).

2. **Crew Neck Shaping**:
   - **RC 120**: **COR**. We will shape the round neck.
   - Place center 14 stitches on a stitch holder or hold (Move to E position, set carriage to Russell Levers/Hold).
   - **Left Side**: 
     - At neck edge (center), dec 1 stitch every row 4 times, then every 2nd row 2 times (6 total decreases).
     - (Math: 26 stitches on side - 6 dec = 20 shoulder stitches).
   - Knit even to **RC 140**.
   - **Shoulder Slope**: At **RC 140**, bind off at armhole edge 7, 7, and 6 stitches to match the back.
   - **RC 150**: Side complete.
   - **Right Side**: Re-attach yarn at neck edge and mirror the shaping.

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### FINISHING

1. **Blocking**:
   - Tuck stitch requires gentle steam blocking. Pin pieces to measurements (50 cm width). Do not press flat, as this kills the tuck "pop."

2. **Shoulder Seams**:
   - Join using mattress stitch or link together on the machine (right sides facing).

3. **Neckband (Crew Neck)**:
   - With right side facing, pick up approx. 90-100 stitches around the neckline.
   - Work 8 rows of 1x1 rib (T4/4). 
   - Bind off loosely using a latch tool or tapestry needle (tubular bind-off recommended).

4. **Armhole Bands**:
   - Pick up approx. 80-86 stitches around each armhole.
   - Work 6 rows of 1x1 rib (T4/4).
   - Bind off loosely.

5. **Side Seams**:
   - Seam using mattress stitch, matching the tuck rows carefully.
   - Weave in all ends.

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**Technical Editor Note**: 
*Calculation Verification:* 
- *Shoulder (20 sts) + Neck (26 sts) + Shoulder (20 sts) = 66 sts.* (Matches stitch count after armhole decreases).
- *Armhole start (RC 90) to Finish (RC 150) = 60 rows.* 60 / 2.7 = 22.2 cm. (Matches 22 cm design depth).
- *Neckline depth: RC 120 to RC 150 = 30 rows.* 30 / 2.7 = 11 cm depth. Ideal for a standard crew neck.