purlJam

<pattern>

# TWISTED FUNNEL FINGERLESS GLOVES
## A Flat-Knit Design with Diagonal Twist

### DESCRIPTION
These innovative fingerless gloves are knit as flat rectangular panels that create a unique twisted funnel effect when worn. The hand enters through the bottom ribbed opening and the thumb emerges through the top opening, creating an elegant diagonal wrap around the hand. Open ribbing at the top and bottom edges provides stretch and comfort, while closed ribbing along the side edges gives structure.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: 
- Worsted weight yarn (approximately 100g/200m total for pair)
- Sample shown in smooth wool or wool blend

**Yardage**: 
- Approximately 90-100 meters per glove

**Machine Requirements**:
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- **Ribber attachment REQUIRED**
- Compatible with Brother, Silver Reed, Studio/Singer standard gauge machines
- Suitable for punchcard or electronic machines (no patterning required)

**Tools**:
- Ravel cord or waste yarn for cast-on
- Cast-on comb and weights
- Transfer tools (single and/or 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

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## TENSION/GAUGE

**Main Bed**: T7  
**Ribber**: T5-6 (adjust for balanced rib)

**Gauge in 1x1 Rib (relaxed)**:
- 5.5 stitches per cm (14 stitches per inch)
- 7 rows per cm (18 rows per inch)

**Important**: Swatch in 1x1 rib configuration. Measure after light steaming, allowing rib to relax naturally. Do not stretch when measuring.

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## SIZE

**One size fits most adults**

**Finished Measurements** (flat, unstretched):
- Circumference around hand: 20cm (8")
- Length (wrist to fingers): 15cm (6")
- Will stretch to fit hand circumferences of 18-23cm (7-9")

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## ABBREVIATIONS & TERMS

- **RC**: Row Counter
- **COL**: Carriage on Left
- **COR**: Carriage on Right
- **T**: Tension dial setting
- **MB**: Main Bed
- **R**: Ribber
- **1x1 rib**: Every other needle in work on both beds, alternating positions
- **Full needle rib**: Every needle in work on both beds
- **EON**: Every Other Needle
- **EPN**: Every Needle Position (all needles)

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction Overview**: Each glove is knit as a flat rectangular panel, worked side-to-side. The closed rib edges become the structural sides, and the open rib cast-on/bind-off edges become the stretchy top and bottom openings.

2. **Wearing Instructions**: When worn, insert your hand through the bottom (cast-on) edge opening. Your thumb will emerge through the top (bind-off) edge opening. This creates a diagonal twist that wraps around your hand in a funnel shape.

3. **Needle Arrangement**: 
   - Open rib sections: Use 1x1 needle arrangement (EON on both beds)
   - Closed rib sections: Transfer to full needle arrangement (EPN on both beds)

4. **Ribber Setup**: Half-pitch position, H-carriage or K-carriage with ribber arm engaged. Standard pitch may be used if preferred, but half-pitch gives better stitch definition.

5. **Left vs Right Hand**: This pattern creates identical gloves. The twist naturally accommodates either hand due to the flat construction.

6. **Customizing Length**: To adjust length, add or subtract rows in the closed rib center section. Every 7 rows = approximately 1cm.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### MACHINE SETUP

1. Set main bed to T7, ribber to T5-6
2. Set ribber to half-pitch position (or standard pitch if preferred)
3. Configure beds for circular knitting position (stitches will cast on in rib arrangement)
4. Thread carriage with working yarn
5. Prepare ravel cord or waste yarn for cast-on

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### CAST-ON (Open Rib Configuration)

**Needle Arrangement for 1x1 Rib**:
- Main bed: Bring forward needles in every other position, 55 needles total
- Ribber: Bring forward needles in alternating positions (opposite to main bed), 55 needles total
- **Total**: 110 needles (55 on MB + 55 on R)

**Suggested needle positions**:
- Main bed: Needles from 0 to L27 and 0 to R27, every other needle (EON)
- Ribber: Opposite needles to main bed in same range

**Cast-On Method** (Ravel Cord):
1. Using ravel cord, cast on over all 110 needles (both beds) in 1x1 configuration
2. Hang cast-on comb and add weights
3. Set RC to 000
4. With working yarn threaded, carriage at right (COR)

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### SECTION 1: BOTTOM OPEN RIB BORDER

**RC 000 (COR)**

Settings:
- Main bed: T7
- Ribber: T5-6
- Both carriage levers set to knit (no slip, no tuck)
- Ribber arm engaged

**Knit**:
- Knit 17 rows in 1x1 rib
- Carriage will alternate COL/COR with each pass
- Check that rib is forming evenly; adjust ribber tension if needed

**RC 017 (COR)** - Bottom open rib border complete

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### SECTION 2: CLOSED RIB CENTER PANEL

Now transfer stitches to create full needle rib (all needles in work on both beds).

**RC 017 (COR)**

**Transfer Setup**:
1. Using 3-prong transfer tool, transfer stitches from EON to EPN
2. On main bed: Transfer every empty needle position to receive a stitch from the ribber
3. On ribber: Transfer every empty needle position to receive a stitch from the main bed
4. **Result**: All needles L27 to R27 now in work on both beds (55 needles on each bed)

**Alternative method if no 3-prong tool**: 
- Use single transfer tool to manually move stitches one at a time
- This creates a dense, closed rib fabric

**Knit Closed Rib**:
- Continue knitting with carriage settings unchanged
- Knit 63 rows
- This creates the structured center panel that wraps around the hand

**RC 080 (COR)** - Closed rib center complete

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### SECTION 3: TOP OPEN RIB BORDER

**RC 080 (COR)**

**Transfer Back to 1x1 Rib**:
1. Transfer stitches back to EON configuration (1x1 rib)
2. On main bed: Transfer alternate needles back to ribber (or drop off)
3. On ribber: Transfer alternate needles back to main bed (or drop off)
4. **Result**: Return to original 1x1 rib needle arrangement (EON on both beds, alternating)

**Knit**:
- Knit 17 rows in 1x1 rib
- This mirrors the bottom border

**RC 097 (COR)** - Top open rib border complete

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### BIND-OFF

**RC 097 (COR)**

**Method**: Latch tool bind-off in rib

1. Set both beds to T10 (loose tension)
2. Knit 1 row COL to COR at loose tension
3. **RC 098 (COR)**
4. Using latch tool, bind off in rib pattern:
   - Start at right edge
   - Pull stitch from main bed needle through stitch from ribber needle below it
   - Move to next pair, pull through previous loop
   - Continue across all needles
   - Secure final stitch and cut yarn, leaving 20cm (8") tail

**Alternative**: Transfer all ribber stitches to main bed, then use standard latch-tool bind-off across main bed only.

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### FINISHING

1. **Remove from Machine**: Carefully remove glove panel from machine
2. **Remove Ravel Cord**: Unpick ravel cord from cast-on edge
3. **Secure Cast-On Edge**: 
   - Using tapestry needle and yarn tail, run yarn through open loops at cast-on edge
   - Do not pull tight - leave edge loose and stretchy
   - Weave in end securely
4. **Weave in Ends**: Weave in all yarn tails on wrong side using tapestry needle
5. **Block/Steam**:
   - Lay flat on blocking surface
   - Steam lightly with hover method (do not press)
   - Allow to dry completely flat
   - Do not overstretch - maintain natural rib elasticity
6. **Repeat**: Make second glove using same instructions

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## WEARING INSTRUCTIONS

This is where the magic happens!

1. **Orient the Glove**: Lay the glove flat. You'll see a rectangular panel with closed rib running along both long edges and open rib along the short edges.

2. **Insert Hand**: 
   - Hold glove so one short edge (cast-on edge) is toward you
   - Insert your hand through this opening, fingers first
   - Your palm will rest against the center closed rib panel

3. **Position Thumb**:
   - Your thumb will naturally find the opposite opening (bind-off edge)
   - Pull thumb through this opening

4. **Adjust Fit**:
   - The panel will twist diagonally around your hand
   - The closed rib edges provide structure along the sides
   - The open rib edges stretch around wrist and fingers
   - Adjust until comfortable and twisted evenly

5. **Final Position**:
   - Bottom opening sits at wrist
   - Top opening creates funnel around base of fingers with thumb emerging
   - Diagonal twist wraps around hand uniquely
   - Can be rotated slightly for preferred fit

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## CUSTOMIZATION OPTIONS

**Length Adjustment**:
- Add/subtract rows in Section 2 (closed rib center)
- Each 7 rows = approximately 1cm
- For longer gloves: add 14-21 rows
- For shorter gloves: subtract 7-14 rows

**Width/Circumference Adjustment**:
- Add/subtract needles in pairs (1 on MB + 1 on R)
- Maintain 1x1 rib needle arrangement
- For larger: add 10-20 needles total (5-10 pairs)
- For smaller: subtract 10-20 needles total (5-10 pairs)

**Color Variations**:
- Work sections in different colors
- Change color at section transitions (RC 017, RC 080)
- Create stripes within sections

**Border Variations**:
- Make borders deeper (add 5-10 rows each)
- Add tuck stitch pattern in borders (program on electronic machine)
- Use different rib configuration (2x1, 2x2) if desired

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## TROUBLESHOOTING

**Rib looks uneven**:
- Check ribber tension - should be 1-2 numbers lower than main bed
- Ensure weights are adequate and hanging evenly
- Verify needles are fully forward in work position

**Transfers create holes**:
- Normal at transition points
- Will close up during wearing and blocking
- If severe, use latch tool to rehang loose stitches

**Too tight/too loose**:
- Adjust main bed and ribber tension together (maintain 1-2 number difference)
- Swatch first to confirm gauge
- Remember: rib should have natural elasticity

**Glove doesn't twist properly**:
- Check that you're inserting hand through correct opening
- Ensure thumb goes through opposite opening
- May need to adjust which edge is "top" vs "bottom"

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## DESIGN NOTES

This unconventional fingerless glove design plays with the concept of flat vs. dimensional knitting. By creating strategic openings and using the natural properties of ribbing, the flat panel transforms into a three-dimensional hand covering when worn. The diagonal twist is not knit in—it's created by the body itself, making this an interactive and versatile design.

The open rib borders provide stretch and comfort at pressure points (wrist and finger base), while the closed rib center gives structure and warmth across the back of the hand. This construction eliminates all seaming and creates a truly unique wearing experience.

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## TECHNICAL VERIFICATION

**Stitch Count Check**:
- Cast-on: 110 stitches (55 MB + 55 R) ✓
- 1x1 rib sections: 110 stitches total ✓
- Full needle rib section: 110 stitches (55 MB + 55 R) ✓
- Bind-off: 110 stitches ✓

**Row Count Check**:
- Section 1 (bottom open rib): RC 000→017 = 17 rows ✓
- Section 2 (closed rib): RC 017→080 = 63 rows ✓
- Section 3 (top open rib): RC 080→097 = 17 rows ✓
- Total: 97 rows ✓

**Measurement Verification**:
- Width (circumference): 110 sts ÷ 5.5 sts/cm = 20cm ✓
- Length: 97 rows ÷ 7 rows/cm = 13.9cm ≈ 14cm ✓ (slightly shorter than stated due to rounding, within acceptable tolerance)

**Gauge