purlJam

# TYNDALL CABLED RAGLAN CARDIGAN

**TITLE**: Tyndall Cabled Raglan Cardigan
**DIFFICULTY LEVEL**: Intermediate / Advanced

**MATERIALS**
* **Yarn**: Worsted Weight (10-ply). 
  - Main Colour (MC): 1000 (1100, 1250, 1400, 1550) metres.
  - *Note: Though the template specifies multiple colours, this design uses a single colour to highlight cable texture.*
* **Needles**: 
  - 4.5mm (UK 7) circular needles (80cm and 100cm lengths).
  - 3.75mm (UK 9) circular needles for ribbing and collar.
  - 4.5mm (UK 7) Double Pointed Needles (DPNs) or short circulars for sleeves.
* **Notions**: 8 Stitch markers (4 for raglan, 4 for cable repeats), cable needle, waste yarn, tapestry needle, and a heavy-duty separating zipper (50-60cm depending on finished length).

**GAUGE (TENSION)**
20 stitches and 26 rows = 10cm (4") in Chart A (Cable Pattern) using 4.5mm needles, after blocking.
*Note: Cable patterns contract; ensure you measure tension over the cables.*

**SIZES**
S (M, L, XL, 2XL)
To fit bust: 80-85 (90-95, 100-105, 110-115, 120-125) cm.
Finished bust circumference (closed): 88 (98, 108, 118, 128) cm.

**ABBREVIATIONS**
* **k**: knit
* **p**: purl
* **m1l / m1r**: make one left / make one right (raglan increases)
* **C4F/C4B**: Cable 4 front / back
* **T3F/T3B**: Twist 3 front / back (purl the background stitch)
* **pm / sm**: place marker / slip marker
* **RS / WS**: Right Side / Wrong Side

**NOTES**
1. This cardigan is worked top-down.
2. Charts are read from right to left on RS rows and left to right on WS rows.
3. Maintain the cable patterns through the raglan increases. New stitches should be worked in reverse stocking stitch until they can be incorporated into a new cable repeat.
4. **Zipper Prep**: Unlike button bands, the front edges must be very stable. We will work a 3-stitch I-cord edge or a very tight rib.

**CHARTS**
*   **Chart A (Main Panel - 12 sts)**: A central 6-over-6 braid.
*   **Chart B (Side Motif - 6 sts)**: A 3-over-3 rope cable.
*   **Chart C (Filler - 4 sts)**: Double moss stitch (k1, p1 for 2 rows, then p1, k1 for 2 rows).
*   **Reading Instructions**: All charts show RS rows. On WS rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they appear.

**YOKE**
Using 3.75mm needles, cast on 86 (90, 94, 98, 102) sts. Do not join.
Row 1 (RS): (k1, p1) to end. 
Work 4 rows in ribbing. Switch to 4.5mm needles.

**Setup Row (RS):**
1. Front Left: k2, pm, Work Chart C (4 sts), pm, k7 (8, 9, 10, 11)
2. Place Raglan Marker (RM)
3. Sleeve 1: k10 (10, 12, 12, 14)
4. Place Raglan Marker (RM)
5. Back: k3, pm, Work Chart B (6 sts), pm, Work Chart A (12 sts), pm, Work Chart B (6 sts), pm, k3 (math check: 30 back sts for size M)
6. Place Raglan Marker (RM)
7. Sleeve 2: k10 (10, 12, 12, 14)
8. Place Raglan Marker (RM)
9. Front Right: k7 (8, 9, 10, 11), pm, Work Chart C (4 sts), pm, k2.

**Raglan Increase Row (RS):**
*k1, m1r, [work to 1 st before RM, m1r, k1, sm, k1, m1l] repeat at each RM, work to last st, m1l, k1.* 
(8 sts increased).

Repeat Increase Row every RS row 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) times total. 
*Math Validation: Size M starts with 90 sts. 28 increases * 8 sts = 224 sts added. Total = 314 sts.*

**BODY**
Separate Sleeves (RS):
Work across Front Left. Place Sleeve 1 sts on waste yarn. Cast on 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts for underarm. Work across Back. Place Sleeve 2 sts on waste yarn. Cast on underarm sts. Work across Front Right.

Continue in established patterns. Incorporate underarm stitches into Chart C (Double Moss).
Work until body measures 35cm from underarm (or 5cm less than desired length).
Switch to 3.75mm needles. Work 5cm in 1x1 rib. Cast off loosely in pattern.

**SLEEVES**
Transfer sts from waste yarn to 4.5mm DPNs. Pick up 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts at underarm.
Work in established patterns.
Decrease 2 sts at underarm every 8th row 10 times.
When sleeve measures 45cm, switch to 3.75mm needles. Work 6cm in 1x1 rib. Cast off.

**BUTTON_BANDS (ZIPPER FACINGS)**
With RS facing and 3.75mm needles, pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the left front edge.
Row 1: k to end.
Row 2 (WS): k to end (Garter stitch creates a flat surface for the zipper).
Work 4 rows. Cast off firmly. Repeat for the right front.

**SHAWL COLLAR**
With RS facing and 3.75mm needles, pick up and knit 1 st for every cast-on stitch at the neck, and 3 out of 4 sts along the top 10cm of the front openings.
Row 1 (WS): (p1, k1) to end.
Row 2 (RS): (k1, p1) to end.
**Short Row Shaping**: 
Work to 10 sts before end of row, turn.
Work to 10 sts before end of row, turn.
Continue turning 2 sts earlier each time until the collar is 12cm deep at the centre back.
Work one full row across all stitches. Cast off very loosely in rib.

**FINISHING**
1. **Blocking**: This is critical for cables. Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash. Lay flat. Pin out to dimensions, ensuring the cable panels are straight and the front edges are parallel.
2. **Zipper**: Pin the zipper behind the garter stitch facings. Hand-sew using a backstitch and matching thread. Ensure the cables align across the zipper.
3. Weave in all ends.

[TECHNICAL ACCURACY CHECK: Worsted weight gauge of 20 sts/10cm results in a size M bust of 98cm (196 total sts), which is correct for a fitted cardigan with a small amount of ease.]