purlJam

# URBAN CROWN: Basquiat-Inspired Doodle Cardigan

## TITLE
**Urban Crown Cardigan**
*A top-down raglan cardigan featuring neo-expressionist doodle motifs.*

## MATERIALS
*   **Yarn**: Worsted weight wool (approx. 200m/100g).
    *   **Main Colour (MC)**: 5 (6, 7, 8) skeins – *Cream or 'Canvas' White*. (Approx. 900-1100m)
    *   **Contrast Colour 1 (CC1)**: 2 skeins – *Black* (For scribble lines and text).
    *   **Contrast Colour 2 (CC2)**: 1 skein – *Bright Red* (For crowns).
    *   **Contrast Colour 3 (CC3)**: 1 skein – *Electric Blue* (For background noise/static).
*   **Needles**:
    *   4.5 mm (US 7) circular needles (80cm cable or longer) for Main Body.
    *   3.75 mm (US 5) circular needles for Ribbing.
*   **Notions**: 8 Stitch markers (4 distinct markers for Raglan lines), tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holders, 5-7 buttons (20mm).

## GAUGE (TENSION)
20 stitches and 26 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm over Fair Isle pattern on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.
*Note: Swatch in the round if possible, or swatch flat and block severely to check if your colourwork pulls in.*

## SIZES
**S (M, L, XL)**
To fit chest: 86 (96, 106, 117) cm.
Finished Chest Circumference (buttoned): 94 (104, 114, 124) cm.
*Designed with 8-10 cm positive ease.*

## ABBREVIATIONS
*   **k**: knit
*   **p**: purl
*   **st(s)**: stitch(es)
*   **CO**: cast on
*   **PM**: place marker
*   **SM**: slip marker
*   **M1L**: make one left (lift bar from front, knit through back loop)
*   **M1R**: make one right (lift bar from back, knit through front loop)
*   **RS**: right side
*   **WS**: wrong side
*   **MC**: Main Colour
*   **CC**: Contrast Colour
*   **Raglan st**: The 2 stitches separating sections (always knitted in MC).

## NOTES
1.  **Construction**: Worked flat from the top down. Sleeves are separated at the underarm and worked in the round. Button bands are picked up last.
2.  **Colourwork**: This pattern uses stranded knitting. Carry the non-working yarn loosely across the wrong side.
3.  **Float Management**: **Crucial.** Due to the isolated "doodle" nature of the charts, some spaces between colours are wide. Twist yarns (catch floats) every 3-4 stitches to prevent snagging.
4.  **Chart Reading**: Read RS rows from Right to Left. Read WS rows from Left to Right.
5.  **Dominance**: Keep CC1 (Black) dominant (held to the left/underneath) to make the scribble lines pop against the background.

## CHARTS

**Chart A: The Crown (12 st repeat, 8 rows)**
*Motif: A jagged three-point crown.*
```
Row 8: . . . . . . . . . . . .  (MC)
Row 7: . . R R . R R . R R . .  (R=Red)
Row 6: . R R R R R R R R R R .
Row 5: . R . R R R R R R . R .
Row 4: . R . R R R R R R . R .
Row 3: . R . . R R R R . . R .
Row 2: . R R R R R R R R R R .
Row 1: . . . . . . . . . . . .
```

**Chart B: The Scribble (8 st repeat, 4 rows)**
*Motif: Chaotic zig-zags mimicking oil stick.*
```
Row 4: . B . . B . . .  (B=Black)
Row 3: . . B B . B . .
Row 2: B . . . . . B B
Row 1: . B B . . B . .
```

**Chart C: Static Noise (4 st repeat)**
*Motif: Random pixels.*
```
Row 4: . X . .  (X=Blue)
Row 3: . . X .
Row 2: X . . .
Row 1: . . . X
```

## YOKE

**Cast On**
Using 3.75 mm needles and MC, CO 78 (82, 86, 90) sts.
Work 3 cm in k1, p1 rib ending with a WS row.

**Set Up Raglan (Transition to 4.5 mm needles)**
Change to 4.5 mm needles.
RS Row: k4 (Front), PM, k2 (Raglan), PM, k10 (10, 12, 12) (Sleeve), PM, k2 (Raglan), PM, k42 (44, 44, 46) (Back), PM, k2 (Raglan), PM, k10 (10, 12, 12) (Sleeve), PM, k2 (Raglan), PM, k4 (Front).
*Total: 78 (82, 86, 90) sts.*

**Yoke Shaping with Colorwork**
*Note: Raglan increases are worked on every RS row. Colorwork charts are inserted into the body/sleeve sections. Keep Raglan sts in MC.*

**Section 1: The Scribble (Chart B)**
Work Rows 1-12 (3 repeats of Chart B vertically).
*   **Row 1 (RS - Inc)**: *Work Chart B to marker, M1R, SM, k2 (MC), SM, M1L; rep from * 4 times, work Chart B to end.
    *   *Math Check Size M: [Start 82 + 8 inc = 90 sts]*
*   **Row 2 (WS)**: Purl all sts, slipping markers, working Chart B logic (reading L to R).
*   Repeat Rows 1-2 for 12 rows total (6 increase rows).
    *   *Math Check Size M: [Start 82 + (6 rows * 8 sts) = 130 sts]*

**Section 2: The Crown (Chart A)**
Work Rows 1-16 (2 repeats of Chart A vertically). Continue Raglan increases every RS row.
*   Keep incorporating new stitches into the pattern. Ideally, center a Crown motif on the Back section.
    *   *Size M at end of Section 2 (Total 28 rows worked): 130 + (8 rows * 8 sts) = 194 sts.*

**Section 3: Static Noise (Chart C) & Extension**
Work in Chart C pattern, continuing increases every RS row until Yoke measures approx 21 (23, 25, 27) cm deep.
Total Inc Rows needed approx: 20 (22, 25, 27) times total.
*   *Math Check Size M: 22 inc rows total * 8 sts = 176 sts added to original 82 = 258 sts.*
    *   *Wait, let's verify Chest width for M.*
    *   *Back sts: Original 44 + (22 * 2) = 88 sts. 88 sts / 20 gauge = 44 cm back width. Double for chest = 88cm. Too small for M.*
    *   *Correction: We need more increases for the body than the sleeves.*

**Corrected Raglan Instructions for Fit:**
Continue working Chart C.
*   **Next Phase**: Increase on Body and Sleeves every RS row until row 40.
*   **Final Phase**: Increase on Body sections ONLY every RS row, work Sleeves even, until desired count.

**Target Stitch Counts before separation (Size M):**
Back: 96 sts (48 cm). Fronts: 48 sts each. Sleeves: 66 sts. Raglans: 8 sts.
Total: ~314 sts.

## BODY

**Separation Row (RS)**
Using MC only (break CCs):
1.  Knit across Left Front to first marker. Remove marker.
2.  Knit 1 raglan st. Place next 66 (70, 74, 80) sleeve sts on waste yarn. Cast on 6 (8, 10, 12) sts at underarm.
3.  Knit remaining raglan st, knit across Back to next marker. Remove marker.
4.  Knit 1 raglan st. Place next 66 (70, 74, 80) sleeve sts on waste yarn. Cast on 6 (8, 10, 12) sts at underarm.
5.  Knit remaining raglan st, knit across Right Front.

*Stitch Count Check (Size M)*:
Front (48) + Raglan (1) + UA (8) + Raglan (1) + Back (96) + Raglan (1) + UA (8) + Raglan (1) + Front (48) = **212 sts**.
212 sts / 2 sts/cm = 106 cm circumference. (Good fit).

**Main Body**
Work in Stockinette stitch (or continue Chart B "Scribble" randomly placed for Basquiat effect) until piece measures 35 cm from underarm.
*Note: For the true doodle look, use Duplicate Stitch in Finishing to add isolated crowns or words like "KING" or "HERO" on the plain lower body.*

**Hem**
Switch to 3.75 mm needles.
Work k1, p1 rib for 5 cm.
Cast off loosely in pattern.

## SLEEVES
Transfer held sleeve stitches to 4.5 mm needles (DPNs or magic loop).
Pick up and knit 3 (4, 5, 6) sts from center of underarm cast on, knit across sleeve sts, pick up and knit remaining 3 (4, 5, 6) sts. Place Marker for beginning of round.
*Total: 72 (78, 84, 92) sts.*

**Sleeve Charting**
Work 5 cm in MC.
Work **Chart A (Crowns)** for one vertical repeat (8 rows).
Work **Chart C (Static)** for remainder of sleeve.

**Decreses**
Decrease 2 sts at underarm marker every 8th (8th, 6th, 6th) round until 44 (48, 52, 56) sts remain.
Continue until sleeve measures 45 cm from underarm.

**Cuff**
Switch to 3.75 mm needles. Work k1, p1 rib for 5 cm.
Cast off loosely.

## BUTTON BANDS
With RS facing and 3.75 mm needles, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along the left front edge.
Work k1, p1 rib for 3 cm. Cast off in rib.
Repeat for Right Front edge, creating 5-7 buttonholes evenly spaced on row 4 of ribbing (yo, k2tog).
*Math Check: Ensure buttonholes align with colourwork bands if possible for neatness.*

## FINISHING
1.  **Duplicate Stitch**: Using CC1 (Black), embroider sketchy lines around the "Crowns" to make them look hand-drawn. Add scribbles or words like "SAMO" or geometric shapes on the plain sections of the body.
2.  **Weave in ends**: This is a colorwork pattern; there will be many ends. duplicate the path of the stitch on the WS to secure.
3.  **Blocking**: Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash. Gently squeeze out excess water. Lay flat to dry, pinning out to schematic dimensions. *Important: Use blocking wires to ensure the button bands lie flat.*
4.  **Sew buttons** to correspond with buttonholes.