purlJam

<pattern>

# VALKYRIE HELMET HAT

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate

## DESIGN NOTES
This dramatic hat channels Viking warrior spirit with a blue domed crown, decorative harlequin colorwork band featuring red diamonds and gold accents, dramatic wing-like side flaps, and long braided "hair" earflaps. The colorwork section showcases traditional geometric motifs on a gray background, trimmed with cream accents.

## SIZES
S/M (L/XL)
- **Finished Circumference:** 20 (22)"
- **Finished Height:** 9 (9.5)" excluding braids
- **Wing Width:** 5" each
- **Braid Length:** 14" each

To fit head circumference: 20-21 (22-23)"

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Sport weight yarn
- **MC (Denim Blue):** 80-100 yd
- **CC1 (Light Gray):** 40 yd
- **CC2 (Cream):** 30 yd
- **CC3 (Red):** 20 yd
- **CC4 (Gold/Yellow):** 15 yd

**Needles:** 
- US 4 (3.5 mm) 16" circular needle and DPNs (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- US 3 (3.25 mm) 16" circular needle (for ribbing)

**Notions:**
- Stitch markers (1 BOR marker, 4 section markers)
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders
- Optional: Thin craft wire (18-20 gauge) for wing support

## GAUGE
24 sts × 32 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needles, blocked
**CRITICAL:** Check your gauge in both solid and stranded colorwork, as colorwork often differs.

## ABBREVIATIONS
- BOR = beginning of round
- CC = contrast color
- DPN(s) = double-pointed needle(s)
- k = knit
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
- m = marker
- MC = main color
- p = purl
- pm = place marker
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sl = slip
- sm = slip marker
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side

---

## COLORWORK CHARTS

### CHART READING INSTRUCTIONS
- Read RS (odd-numbered) rows from RIGHT to LEFT
- Read WS (even-numbered) rows from LEFT to RIGHT
- When working in the round, all rounds are RS; read all rounds right to left
- Each square represents one stitch
- Charts show pattern repeats in [ ] brackets
- Work colorwork using stranded knitting technique, catching floats longer than 5 stitches

### CHART A: HARLEQUIN BAND WITH DIAMONDS
**Pattern repeat: 12 sts × 20 rounds**
Work this chart 10 (11) times around for full circumference.

```
Round 20: □□□□□□□□□□□□
Round 19: □□□□●●●●□□□□
Round 18: □□□●■■■■●□□□
Round 17: □□●■■■■■■●□□
Round 16: □●■■■■■■■■●□
Round 15: □■■■■●●■■■■□
Round 14: □■■■●●●●■■■□
Round 13: □■■■●●●●■■■□
Round 12: □■■■■●●■■■■□
Round 11: □●■■■■■■■■●□
Round 10: □□●■■■■■■●□□
Round 9:  □□□●■■■■●□□□
Round 8:  □□□□●●●●□□□□
Round 7:  □□□□□□□□□□□□
Round 6:  ●□□□□□□□□□□●
Round 5:  □□□□□□□□□□□□
Round 4:  □□□●●□□●●□□□
Round 3:  □□□●●□□●●□□□
Round 2:  □□□□□□□□□□□□
Round 1:  ●□□□□□□□□□□●
```

**KEY:**
- □ = CC1 (Light Gray)
- ■ = CC3 (Red) - Diamond shape
- ● = CC4 (Gold/Yellow) - Accent dots

**Stitch Count Check:** 12 sts × 10 reps = 120 sts (S/M); 12 sts × 11 reps = 132 sts (L/XL) ✓

### CHART B: CREAM TRIM ACCENT
**Pattern repeat: 4 sts × 3 rounds**

```
Round 3: ▫▫▫▫
Round 2: ■■■■
Round 1: ▫▫▫▫
```

**KEY:**
- ▫ = MC (Denim Blue)
- ■ = CC2 (Cream)

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### RIBBED BRIM
With smaller needle and MC, CO 120 (132) sts using long-tail cast on. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for BOR.

**Setup Round:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 1.5", approximately 12 rounds.

**Stitch Count Check:** 120 (132) sts ✓

### CREAM TRIM BAND
Change to larger needle.

**Round 1:** With MC, knit all sts.
**Round 2:** With CC2 (Cream), knit all sts.
**Round 3:** With CC2, knit all sts.
**Round 4:** With MC, knit all sts.

**Stitch Count Check:** 120 (132) sts ✓

### COLORWORK HARLEQUIN BAND
Using stranded colorwork technique, work Chart A once through all 20 rounds, repeating the 12-st pattern 10 (11) times around.

**Color Management Notes:**
- Catch floats every 3-4 stitches when float exceeds 5 stitches
- Maintain even tension; colorwork should not pucker
- Carry unused yarn loosely across back of work

After completing Round 20 of Chart A, cut CC1, CC3, and CC4, leaving 6" tails for weaving.

**Stitch Count Check:** 120 (132) sts ✓

### TRANSITION TO CROWN
**Round 1:** With MC, knit all sts.
**Rounds 2-3:** Knit.

**Stitch Count Check:** 120 (132) sts ✓

### CROWN SHAPING

**Setup for Decreases:**
With MC, work as follows:

For S/M (120 sts):
*K20, pm; rep from * 5 more times. (6 sections of 20 sts each)

For L/XL (132 sts):
*K22, pm; rep from * 5 more times. (6 sections of 22 sts each)

**Decrease Round:** *Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sm; rep from * to end. 
(12 sts decreased per decrease round)

**Plain Round:** Knit all sts.

Repeat these 2 rounds as follows:

**For S/M:**
- After Decrease Round 1: 108 sts (18 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 2: 96 sts (16 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 3: 84 sts (14 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 4: 72 sts (12 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 5: 60 sts (10 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 6: 48 sts (8 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 7: 36 sts (6 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 8: 24 sts (4 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 9: 12 sts (2 sts per section) ✓

**For L/XL:**
- After Decrease Round 1: 120 sts (20 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 2: 108 sts (18 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 3: 96 sts (16 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 4: 84 sts (14 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 5: 72 sts (12 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 6: 60 sts (10 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 7: 48 sts (8 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 8: 36 sts (6 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 9: 24 sts (4 sts per section) ✓
- After Decrease Round 10: 12 sts (2 sts per section) ✓

When 12 sts remain, cut yarn leaving 10" tail. Thread tail through remaining sts, pull tight, and secure.

---

## WING FLAPS (Make 2)

These dramatic side pieces give the helmet its characteristic silhouette.

With larger needles and CC1 (Light Gray), CO 30 sts.

**Row 1 (RS):** Knit.
**Row 2 (WS):** Purl.

Work 4 more rows in stockinette st (6 rows total).

**Begin Wing Shaping:**

**Row 7 (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (28 sts)
**Row 8 (WS):** Purl.
**Row 9:** Knit.
**Row 10:** Purl.

Repeat Rows 7-10 another 6 times. (16 sts after all decreases)

**Next Row (RS):** K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (14 sts)
**Next Row (WS):** Purl.

Repeat last 2 rows 3 more times. (8 sts)

**Next Row (RS):** K1, ssk, k2, k2tog, k1. (6 sts)
**Next Row (WS):** P2tog, p2, p2tog. (4 sts)
**Next Row (RS):** Ssk, k2tog. (2 sts)
**Next Row (WS):** P2tog. (1 st)

Cut yarn and fasten off.

**Stitch Count Verification:**
- Start: 30 sts ✓
- After 7 decrease sequences: 16 sts ✓
- After 4 additional decrease rows: 8 sts ✓
- Final: 1 st ✓

### WING EMBELLISHMENT (Optional)

With CC4 (Gold), embroider small French knots or duplicate stitch dots along the wing edges for added decoration.

---

## BRAIDED EARFLAPS (Make 2)

These long braids simulate Viking hair and add warmth.

**BRAID CONSTRUCTION:**

Each braid consists of 3 i-cord sections worked separately, then braided together.

### I-CORD STRANDS (Make 6 total: 3 per braid)

With DPNs and MC, CO 4 sts.

**I-Cord:** *Without turning work, slide sts to opposite end of needle, k4 pulling yarn firmly across back; rep from * until cord measures 15".

BO all sts. Cut yarn, leaving 6" tail.

Make 5 more i-cords (total of 6).

### ASSEMBLING BRAIDS

For each braid:
1. Take 3 i-cord strands and align cast-on ends.
2. Tie together with scrap yarn 1" from cast-on edge.
3. Braid the three strands together firmly.
4. When 1" from bind-off ends, tie together with scrap yarn.
5. Trim ends to create 1" fringe at top and bottom.

Repeat for second braid.

---

## FINISHING

### BLOCKING
Soak hat in cool water with wool wash for 15 minutes. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). 

Block hat over an appropriately sized bowl or balloon:
- Smooth colorwork band to ensure even stitch definition
- Shape crown into rounded dome
- Pin wings flat to measurement
- Allow to dry