purlJam

# VERTICAL RIDGE GARTER COAT
**A loose-fitting, architectural coat knitted sideways to create vertical garter ridges.**

**Pattern Type:** Knitting
**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Size:** UK 22
**Finished Measurements:**
*   **To Fit Bust:** 112-117 cm (44-46 in)
*   **Actual Bust Circumference:** 136 cm (53.5 in)
*   **Length (Shoulder to Hem):** Approx. 85 cm (33.5 in)
*   **Sleeve Length:** 46 cm (18 in)

### MATERIALS
*   **Yarn:** Approx. 1600-1700m of DK weight yarn. (Ensure yarn has good structure, e.g., a wool or wool blend, to maintain the coat's shape).
*   **Needles:** 4.0mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needles, at least 80cm or 100cm length (to accommodate the long cast-on edge).
*   **Needles for Ribbing:** 3.25mm (UK 10 / US 3) circular needles for bands.
*   **Notions:** 5 large sew-on poppers (snaps), tapestry needle, stitch markers, stitch holder or waste yarn.

### TENSION (GAUGE)
22 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm (4 in) measured over Garter Stitch (knit every row) using 4.0mm needles.
*Note: In this pattern, the Stitch Count determines the Length of the coat, and the Row Count determines the Width. It is vital to check your tension.*

### ABBREVIATIONS (UK TERMINOLOGY)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **inc:** increase 1 stitch (knit into front and back of stitch)
*   **dec:** decrease 1 stitch (knit 2 stitches together)
*   **RS:** Right Side
*   **WS:** Wrong Side
*   **cast off:** bind off

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### INSTRUCTIONS

#### MAIN BODY (Knitted in one piece sideways)
*Construction Note: You will start at the Left Front edge, work across the back, and finish at the Right Front edge. The rows run vertically from hem to shoulder.*

**1. Left Front**
Using 4.0mm needles, cast on **158 sts**.
(This represents the length from Hem to Neck Base: Total length 180 sts minus 22 sts for neck depth).

*   **Row 1 (RS):** Knit to end.
*   **Row 2 (WS):** Knit to end.
*   Continue in Garter Stitch (knit every row) until work measures **12 cm** from cast-on edge (approx. 48 rows), ending with a WS row.

**Shape Neck:**
We will now increase stitches at the top edge (end of RS rows/start of WS rows) to curve up towards the shoulder.
*   **Next Row (RS):** Knit to last st, inc in last st. [159 sts]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Knit to end.
*   Repeat these 2 rows 21 more times.
    *   *[Math Check: 158 start + 22 incs = 180 sts]*
*   Work measures approx. 23 cm from start. You now have the full coat length (180 sts).

**Left Shoulder:**
*   Continue straight on these **180 sts** for **11 cm** (approx. 44 rows), ending with a WS row.

**Left Armhole:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Cast off **58 sts** (this forms the armhole depth), k to end. [122 sts remain for side body]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Knit 122 sts, turn, cast on **58 sts** using the cable cast-on method. [180 sts]
    *   *[Check: 122 side + 58 armhole = 180 sts]*

**2. Back**
*   Work straight in Garter Stitch on all 180 sts for **68 cm** (approx. 272 rows).
*   Ensure you end with a WS row.

**Right Armhole:**
*   **Next Row (RS):** Cast off **58 sts**, k to end. [122 sts remain]
*   **Next Row (WS):** Knit 122 sts, turn, cast on **58 sts**. [180 sts]

**3. Right Front**
**Right Shoulder:**
*   Work straight on these 180 sts for **11 cm** (approx. 44 rows), ending with a RS row.

**Shape Neck:**
*   **Next Row (WS):** K1, k2tog (dec), k to end. [179 sts]
*   **Next Row (RS):** Knit to end.
*   Repeat these 2 rows 21 more times. [158 sts remain]

**Right Front Panel:**
*   Continue straight on 158 sts until this section measures **12 cm** from the end of neck shaping (matching the Left Front width).
*   Cast off all stitches loosely.

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#### SLEEVES (Make 2)
*Knitted sideways to match the vertical ridges of the body.*
*Length (Cuff to Shoulder): 46 cm. Width (Upper Arm): 44 cm.*

Using 4.0mm needles, cast on **101 sts**. (46 cm length).

*   **Row 1:** Knit to end.
*   Continue straight in Garter Stitch until piece measures **44 cm** (approx. 176 rows) from cast-on edge.
*   Cast off all stitches loosely.

---

#### FINISHING & BANDS

**Assembly:**
1.  Block pieces gently to measurements. Garter stitch can shrink; stretch it slightly width-wise if necessary to hit the 136cm circumference.
2.  Fold the sleeve pieces in half lengthwise to find the centre point of the cast-off edge. Match this to the shoulder seam position on the body (the bridge of stitches above the armhole slit).
3.  Sew the long edge of the sleeve (the row ends) into the armhole slit.
4.  Sew the sleeve underarm seam (cast on/cast off edges of the sleeve).

**Front & Neck Ribbing:**
Using 3.25mm needles (smaller needles ensure firm bands):

**Left Front Band:**
1.  With RS facing, pick up and knit stitches along the Left Front vertical edge (the cast-on edge of the body). Aim for approx. 3 sts for every 4 rows.
    *   *Target: Approx. 102 sts.*
2.  **Row 1 (WS):** *P2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.
3.  **Row 2 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
4.  Work in 2x2 rib for 4 cm. Cast off in rib.

**Right Front Band:**
1.  Work as for Left Front Band along the Right Front vertical edge (the cast-off edge of the body).

**Neck Band:**
1.  With RS facing, pick up and knit stitches around the neckline:
    *   Start at top of Right Front Band.
    *   Pick up approx. 28 sts up the right neck curve.
    *   Pick up approx. 40 sts across the back neck (top of rows).
    *   Pick up approx. 28 sts down the left neck curve.
    *   End at top of Left Front Band.
    *   *Total approx: 96-100 sts.* (Ensure count is a multiple of 4).
2.  Work in 2x2 rib for 3 cm.
3.  Cast off loosely in rib.

**Fastening:**
1.  Sew the 5 poppers evenly spaced along the Front Bands. Ensure the "male" parts are on the Right Front band overlap and "female" parts on the underside of the Left Front band (or vice versa according to preference, standard women's fastening is Right over Left).

**Weave in all ends.**