purlJam

<pattern>

# VIKING FLIP-TOP CONVERTIBLE MITTENS

A pair of versatile convertible mittens featuring the iconic harlequin diamond band to match your Viking hat. These mittens include an i-cord trim at the cuff, optional thumb opening, fingerless section with twisted rib edge, and a flip-top flap to keep fingers warm when needed.

**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn
- **MC (Grey or Blue)**: 150 yards
- **CC1 (White)**: 50 yards  
- **CC2 (Yellow)**: 30 yards
- **CC3 (Red)**: 10 yards (for bobbles)

**Needles**: 
- US 7 (4.5 mm) DPNs or circular needle for magic loop (main pattern)
- US 6 (4 mm) DPNs (for i-cord only)
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scrap yarn or stitch holder for thumb
- Small button (optional, for flip-top closure)

---

## GAUGE

20 sts × 26 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch in the round on larger needles

**GAUGE IS CRITICAL** - Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary.

---

## SIZES

One size (Adult Medium)
- **Hand Circumference**: 8" (worn with slight negative ease)
- **Total Length**: Customizable (approximately 9-10")

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **CC**: contrast color
- **dpn(s)**: double-pointed needle(s)
- **k**: knit
- **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **m1L**: make 1 left-leaning increase (lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **m1R**: make 1 right-leaning increase (lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **MC**: main color
- **p**: purl
- **pm**: place marker
- **rep**: repeat
- **RS**: right side
- **sm**: slip marker
- **ssk**: slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **st(s)**: stitch(es)
- **WS**: wrong side
- **RT (Right Twist)**: k2tog but leave on needle, knit first st again, slip both sts off needle
- **[ ]**: repeat instructions within brackets

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction**: Mittens are worked in the round from the bottom up, beginning with an i-cord cast-on.

2. **Harlequin Pattern**: The 8-stitch harlequin diamond pattern from your Viking hat is worked over 5 repeats (40 sts total). Each repeat creates one diamond motif.

3. **Colorwork Tips**: 
   - Carry floats loosely across the back of work
   - Catch floats longer than 5 stitches
   - Maintain consistent tension to prevent puckering

4. **Thumb Options**: Instructions include an optional thumb gusset. You may omit the thumb entirely if you prefer a simple tube.

5. **Flip-Top Flap**: The flap is worked separately and sewn to the mitten top, allowing it to fold back when not needed.

6. **Sizing Adjustments**: To adjust circumference, add/subtract stitches in multiples of 8 to maintain harlequin pattern.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### I-CORD CAST-ON

With CC1 (white) and smaller needles, cast on 3 sts using cable cast-on.

**I-Cord Row** (RS): K3, do not turn. Slide sts to right end of needle.

Rep I-Cord Row until you have a cord measuring approximately 25" long (enough to wrap around 40-st circumference with ease). Cut yarn leaving 6" tail.

**Join to Form Ring**: 
Using US 7 (4.5 mm) needles and CC1, pick up and knit 40 sts along the right edge of the i-cord (pick up 1 st in the edge of each i-cord row, spacing evenly). 

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for beginning of round.

**Stitch count**: 40 sts ✓

---

### HARLEQUIN BAND

**Note**: Harlequin band is worked in stranded colorwork following chart. Each repeat is 8 sts wide; work 5 times around (8 × 5 = 40 sts ✓).

With CC1 (white) as background color:

**Round 1**: With CC1, knit all sts.

**Rounds 2-13**: Work Harlequin Chart (see Charts section below), repeating 8-st pattern 5 times around.

**Round 14**: With CC1, knit all sts.

**Stitch count**: 40 sts maintained ✓

---

### I-CORD TOP TRIM (Applied I-Cord)

**Note**: This i-cord is worked directly onto the live stitches at the top of the harlequin band, consuming them as you go.

Switch to MC (grey or blue) and smaller needles (US 6 / 4 mm).

**Setup**: Cast on 3 sts onto left needle using cable cast-on.

**Applied I-Cord Round**:
- K2, ssk (using 1 i-cord st and 1 live st from harlequin band), slide sts back to left needle.
- Rep from * around until all 40 sts have been consumed.

**Finishing I-Cord**: Graft or seam the 3 i-cord sts to the beginning of the i-cord to close the circle.

**Stitch count**: All harlequin sts consumed; i-cord edging complete ✓

---

### HAND SECTION

Switch to MC and larger needles (US 7 / 4.5 mm).

**Setup Round**: Pick up and knit 40 sts through the purl bumps along the top edge of the i-cord trim (inserting needle under both legs of each st). Pm for beginning of round.

**Stitch count**: 40 sts ✓

**Rounds 1-8**: Knit all sts.

**Stitch count after Round 8**: 40 sts ✓

---

### THUMB GUSSET (Optional)

**Note**: If you prefer no thumb opening, skip to "Continue Hand Without Thumb" section.

**Gusset Setup Round** (Round 9): K20, pm (thumb marker), m1R, k1, m1L, pm (thumb marker), k19 to end of round.

**Stitch count**: 42 sts (20 + 3 thumb + 19 = 42 sts ✓)

**Round 10**: Knit all sts.

**Round 11**: K to first thumb marker, sm, m1R, k to second thumb marker, m1L, sm, k to end.

**Stitch count**: 44 sts (20 + 5 thumb + 19 = 44 sts ✓)

**Round 12**: Knit all sts.

**Round 13**: K to first thumb marker, sm, m1R, k to second thumb marker, m1L, sm, k to end.

**Stitch count**: 46 sts (20 + 7 thumb + 19 = 46 sts ✓)

**Round 14**: Knit all sts.

**Round 15**: K to first thumb marker, sm, m1R, k to second thumb marker, m1L, sm, k to end.

**Stitch count**: 48 sts (20 + 9 thumb + 19 = 48 sts ✓)

**Rounds 16-17**: Knit all sts.

**Divide for Thumb**:
**Round 18**: K to first thumb marker, remove marker, place next 9 sts on scrap yarn or holder (thumb sts), remove marker, cast on 1 st using backward loop method, k to end.

**Stitch count**: 40 sts (20 + 1 cast-on + 19 = 40 sts ✓; 9 thumb sts on hold)

---

### CONTINUE HAND WITHOUT THUMB

**For No-Thumb Option**: Work Rounds 9-18 as follows:
**Rounds 9-18**: Knit all sts.

**Stitch count**: 40 sts ✓

---

### HAND TO FINGERS

**Rounds 19-28**: Knit all sts (approximately 1.5" above thumb opening).

**Stitch count after Round 28**: 40 sts ✓

---

### FINGERLESS EDGE (Twisted Rib)

**Round 29**: [RT, p1, k1, p1] rep around (10 times).

**Rounds 30-32**: [K2, p1, k1, p1] rep around (10 times).

**Stitch count**: 40 sts maintained ✓

**Bind off** loosely in pattern (k2, p1, k1, p1).

---

### FLIP-TOP FLAP

**Note**: The flap is worked flat in rows, then sewn to the top of the mitten.

With MC and larger needles, cast on 22 sts.

**Row 1** (RS): K1, [k1, p1] to last st, k1.

**Row 2** (WS): K1, [p1, k1] to last st, k1.

**Rows 3-4**: Rep Rows 1-2.

**Row 5** (RS): Knit all sts.

**Row 6** (WS): Purl all sts.

**Rows 7-18**: Rep Rows 5-6 six more times (12 rows stockinette total).

**Shape Top**:
**Row 19** (RS): K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

**Stitch count**: 20 sts (22 - 2 = 20 sts ✓)

**Row 20**: Purl all sts.

**Row 21**: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

**Stitch count**: 18 sts (20 - 2 = 18 sts ✓)

**Row 22**: Purl all sts.

**Row 23**: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

**Stitch count**: 16 sts (18 - 2 = 16 sts ✓)

**Row 24**: Purl all sts.

**Row 25**: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

**Stitch count**: 14 sts (16 - 2 = 14 sts ✓)

**Row 26**: P2tog across.

**Stitch count**: 7 sts (14 ÷ 2 = 7 sts ✓)

Cut yarn leaving 12" tail. Thread through remaining 7 sts and pull tight to close top.

---

### THUMB (If Worked)

Transfer 9 held thumb sts to larger needles. Join MC.

**Setup Round**: Pick up and knit 2 sts at gap, k9 from holder, pick up and knit 1 st at other side of gap. Pm for beginning of round.

**Stitch count**: 12 sts (2 + 9 + 1 = 12 sts ✓)

**Rounds 1-8**: Knit all sts (or until thumb measures desired length, approximately 1.5-2").

**Twisted Rib Edge**:
**Round 9**: [RT, p1, k1] rep around (3 times).

**Stitch count**: 12 sts maintained ✓

**Rounds 10-11**: [K2, p1, k1] rep around (3 times).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

---

## CHARTS

### HARLEQUIN CHART
**Pattern repeat: 8 stitches wide × 13 rounds tall**  
**Work repeat: 5 times around (8 × 5 = 40 sts total ✓)**

```
Round 14: W W W W W W W W
Round 13: W W W W W W W W
Round 12: W W W Y Y W W W
Round 11: W W Y Y Y Y W W
Round 10: W Y Y Y Y Y Y W
Round 9:  W Y Y Y Y Y Y W
Round 8:  Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Round 7:  W Y Y Y Y Y Y W
Round 6:  W Y Y Y Y Y Y W
Round 5:  W W Y Y Y Y W W
Round 4:  W W W Y Y W W W
Round 3:  W W W W W W W W
Round 2:  W W W W W W W W
Round 1:  W W W W W W W W
          8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
```

**Key**:
- **W** = CC1 (White) - knit
- **Y** = CC2