purlJam

<pattern>

# VINTAGE 1960s TURTLENECK SWEATER
**Classic Drop-Shoulder Pullover for Mid-Gauge Machine**

UK Size 14 | Finished Bust 40" (101.6cm) with 2" positive ease | Intermediate Level

---

## MACHINE_SETUP

**Machine Type:** Mid-gauge knitting machine (6.5mm standard bed), approximately 160-needle bed  
**Bed Configuration:** Main bed only for body and sleeves; ribber optional for turtleneck (see NECKBAND section)  
**Tension Dial:** Start at MT 6-7 for fingering weight yarn; adjust after swatching  

**SWATCH INSTRUCTIONS:**
1. Hang cast-on comb with waste yarn over 40 needles at center of bed
2. Knit 8 rows waste yarn at MT+2
3. Thread fingering weight yarn, set tension dial to MT 6
4. RC000: Knit 40 rows in stockinette
5. Transfer stitches to waste yarn, remove from machine
6. Steam press lightly with damp cloth, allow to cool flat
7. Measure over center 20 stitches and 30 rows; multiply to obtain stitches per inch and rows per inch
8. **TARGET GAUGE:** 6 sts/inch (2.36 sts/cm) and 8 rows/inch (3.15 rows/cm)
9. Adjust tension dial up (looser) or down (tighter) to match gauge exactly

**Required Tools:**
- Ravel cord (contrasting smooth waste yarn)
- Cast-on comb(s): 120-stitch capacity minimum
- Claw weights or multiple smaller weights (at least 4)
- Transfer tools (single-eye and multi-eye)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Stitch markers or contrast yarn
- Steamer or iron with damp pressing cloth

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Approximately 1200-1400 yards (1100-1280m) fingering weight yarn (400-500g)  
Suggested: 4-ply wool, wool-blend, or cotton-blend with good stitch definition

**Notions:**
- Contrast waste yarn (smooth, slightly heavier than main yarn)
- Sewing thread to match main yarn
- Tapestry needle (size 18-20)
- Blocking pins (optional)

---

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION

**GAUGE (after steaming):**
- **6 stitches** = 1 inch (2.54cm)
- **8 rows** = 1 inch (2.54cm)
- Measured in stockinette stitch at MT 6-7

**Tension Settings:**
- Main body and sleeves: MT 6-7 (adjust to match gauge)
- Turtleneck rib: MT -1 from main tension (MT 5-6)

**Measuring Your Swatch:**
After steaming and cooling completely, lay swatch flat without stretching. Use a rigid ruler to count stitches over 4 inches (10cm) horizontally, then divide by 4. Count rows over 4 inches vertically, divide by 4. If gauge is off by more than 0.25 st/inch, re-swatch at adjusted tension.

---

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES

**FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:**

```
BODY:
- Bust circumference: 40" (101.6cm) [UK 14 + 2" ease]
- Body length from shoulder: 24" (61cm)
- Shoulder width (each side): 8" (20.3cm) = 48 stitches
- Armhole depth: 10" (25.4cm) = 80 rows

SLEEVES:
- Cuff circumference: 10" (25.4cm) = 60 stitches
- Upper arm circumference: 16" (40.6cm) = 96 stitches
- Sleeve length from underarm: 17.5" (44.5cm) = 140 rows
- Total sleeve length including cap: 19.5" (49.5cm)

NECKLINE:
- Neck opening circumference: 20" (50.8cm) = 120 stitches
- Turtleneck height: 7" (17.8cm) = 56 rows [folds to 3.5"]
- Front neck depth: 1" (2.5cm) below shoulder line

SCHEMATIC:
        |←---- 20" (120 sts) ---->|
        ┌───────────────────────┐  ← Shoulder line
        │                         │
    10" │    BODY (Front/Back)   │ 10"
    80r │                         │ 80r
        │                         │
        ├─────────────────────────┤  ← Underarm
        │                         │
    14" │                         │ 14"
   112r │                         │ 112r
        │                         │
        └─────────────────────────┘

SLEEVE:
    ┌─────┐  ← 16" (96 sts) upper arm
    │     │
    │     │  17.5" (140 rows)
    │     │
    └─────┘  ← 10" (60 sts) cuff
```

**Math Verification:**
- Back panel: 120 sts × 192 rows ✓
- Front panel: 120 sts × 192 rows ✓
- Each sleeve: 60-96 sts × 160 rows ✓
- Neck: 120 sts × 56 rows ✓
- Total body circumference: 120 sts × 2 = 240 sts ÷ 6 sts/inch = 40" ✓

---

## BACK_PANEL

**Needle Arrangement:** Bring 120 needles to WP (working position), centered on bed (e.g., needles 60L to 60R on 160-needle bed, or 0-119 on electronic numbering)

**CAST-ON (open edge for possible hem):**
1. With ravel cord, e-wrap cast-on over all 120 needles
2. Hang cast-on comb with evenly spaced weights (4-6 claw weights total)
3. Knit 8 rows waste yarn at MT+2, ending COR (carriage on right)
4. Thread main yarn, set tension dial to MT 6-7
5. RC000

**BODY:**
- **RC000-010:** Knit 10 rows stockinette, ending COL (carriage on left). Check tension; adjust if necessary. Rehang weights to maintain even tension.
  - *Math check: 10 rows = 1.25" starting edge*
- **RC010:** Mark this row with contrast yarn at both edges (fold line if creating hem)
- **RC010-192:** Knit straight in stockinette for 182 rows, ending COL
  - *Every 20 rows, check that fabric is advancing evenly; rehang weights if needed*
  - *Math check: 192 rows total ÷ 8 rows/inch = 24" length ✓*

**SHOULDER SHAPING (minimal for drop-shoulder style):**
- **RC192:** All 120 stitches remain in work. Mark center 24 stitches for back neck (48 sts each shoulder).
  - *Math: 120 sts - 24 neck = 96 sts ÷ 2 = 48 sts per shoulder ✓*
  - Using contrast yarn, mark needles 12L to 12R (or equivalent 24 center needles)

**BIND-OFF:**
- **RC192 COL:** Transfer all stitches to waste yarn (run through with ravel cord and light-colored waste yarn for 8 rows at MT+2), then drop off machine on latch-off cord **OR** use latch-tool bind-off directly (recommended for clean shoulder seam).
  
**LATCH-TOOL BIND-OFF METHOD:**
1. COR, RC192: Manually remove carriage
2. Starting at right edge, use latch tool to chain off each stitch across row
3. Secure last stitch, cut yarn leaving 12" (30cm) tail
4. Remove from machine

**Remove from machine:** Leave long yarn tails (12"/30cm) at shoulders for seaming.

---

## FRONT_PANEL

**Needle Arrangement:** Bring 120 needles to WP, centered on bed (same as back)

**CAST-ON:** Repeat exactly as BACK_PANEL cast-on method (ravel cord, waste yarn, main yarn at RC000)

**BODY:**
- **RC000-172:** Knit 172 rows stockinette, ending COR
  - *Math check: 172 rows ÷ 8 = 21.5" before neck shaping ✓*
  - Rehang weights every 30-40 rows

**FRONT NECK SHAPING:**
The front neck is worked with center stitches placed on hold, then shoulders completed separately.

- **RC172 COR:** Begin neck shaping. Center 24 stitches will form neck opening; 48 stitches each shoulder remain.
  - *Math: 120 sts - 24 center = 96 sts ÷ 2 = 48 sts per shoulder ✓*

**Right Shoulder (worked first, from carriage side):**
- **RC172 COR:** Push center 24 needles and all 60 left-side needles to HOLD position (HP). 48 right shoulder needles remain in WP.
- **RC173-192:** Knit 20 rows on right shoulder needles only (48 needles), carriage moving COR to COL and back. End COR.
  - *Math: 20 rows = 2.5" neck depth; total front = 24" ✓*
- **RC192 COR:** Bind off right shoulder 48 stitches using latch-tool method or transfer to waste yarn.

**Left Shoulder:**
- **RC172:** Return to RC172. Bring 48 left shoulder needles back to WP (needles 61L to 12L or equivalent). Center 24 needles remain in HP. Right shoulder already completed.
- Set RC back to 172 manually
- **RC172 COL:** Carriage on left, 48 left shoulder needles in WP
- **RC173-192:** Knit 20 rows on left shoulder needles only, ending COL
- **RC192 COL:** Bind off left shoulder 48 stitches

**CENTER NECK STITCHES:**
The 24 center neck stitches remain on needles (or transferred to waste yarn holder). These will be reused for turtleneck. Mark these carefully with contrast yarn through each stitch.

**Remove from machine:** Front panel complete with neck opening.

---

## SLEEVES (make 2 identical)

**Needle Arrangement:** Start with 60 needles centered on bed (e.g., 30L to 30R)

**CAST-ON:**
1. E-wrap or ravel cord cast-on over 60 needles
2. Hang cast-on comb with 2-3 weights evenly spaced
3. Knit 8 rows waste yarn at MT+2, ending COR
4. Thread main yarn, set tension to MT 6-7
5. RC000

**CUFF:**
- **RC000-020:** Knit 20 rows stockinette (or work 2x2 rib on ribber if available for 20 rows at MT-1)
  - *Math: 20 rows = 2.5" cuff; 60 sts ÷ 6 = 10" circumference ✓*
  - If working rib: after 20 rows, transfer rib to main bed, continue in stockinette

**SLEEVE INCREASES:**
Need to increase from 60 sts to 96 sts = 36 sts total = 18 increases each side

- **RC020-160:** Increase 1 stitch each edge every 8 rows, 18 times
  - *Increase schedule: RC028, 036, 044, 052, 060, 068, 076, 084, 092, 100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 148, 156, 164*
  - *Math check: 18 increases × 8 rows = 144 rows; RC020 + 144 = RC164 ✓*