purlJam

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# WHISPERING OAK SWIRL SHAWL

### A Lace Shawl in 2-Ply Mohair

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## DESCRIPTION

This exquisite shawl is worked from the centre outward in six swirling wedges, each separated by a yarn-over spine that creates the characteristic spiral silhouette. An allover oak leaf lace motif — with its graceful lobed leaves, central vein, and delicate tracery — fills every wedge, growing richer as the shawl expands. Worked in 2-ply mohair for a halo-soft, ethereal finish, this is a project for the experienced lace knitter. Blocking transforms the fabric entirely, opening the lace to its full, breathtaking glory.

**Finished Measurements (after blocking):**
Wingspan (tip to tip across longest axis): approx 160 cm (63 in)
Depth (centre-back neck to deepest point): approx 70 cm (27½ in)

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
2-ply mohair (also sold as "lace-weight mohair" or "kid mohair/silk lace")
Recommended composition: 70% Super Kid Mohair / 30% Silk
Approx 850–950 metres (930–1,040 yards) in a single colourway
*Sample shown in a deep forest green; semi-solid or tonal colourways will enhance the leaf motif.*

> **Yarn Note:** This pattern is written for 2-ply mohair lace weight. The system default references worsted weight, but 2-ply mohair is correct for this design. Do not substitute a heavier yarn without recalculating all measurements and tension.

**Needles:**
4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle, 80 cm (32 in) or longer, for swirl body
4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle, 100 cm (40 in) or longer, for later rounds when stitch count grows
4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle, 40 cm (16 in) or DPNs, for cast-on only

*The longer cable is essential for Magic Loop or for comfortably accommodating the final stitch count.*

**Notions:**
- 6 stitch markers (5 in one colour for wedge spines; 1 in a contrasting colour for beginning of round — BOR)
- Tapestry needle for finishing
- Blocking wires and pins (essential for lace)
- Smooth waste yarn or dental floss for lifelines (strongly recommended every 10 rounds)
- Row counter

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 sts and 24 rounds = 10 cm (4 in)** in lace pattern on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

> **Tension Note:** Mohair lace must be blocked to achieve the correct tension. Unblocked tension will be much tighter and smaller. Swatch on the needles you intend to use, wash and block your swatch exactly as you will the finished piece, and measure only after it is fully dry. Tension is critical for the final measurements; adjust needle size as needed.

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## DIFFICULTY LEVEL

**Advanced**

This pattern requires confident knowledge of:
- Lace knitting and chart reading
- Working in the round with increasing stitch counts
- Yarn-over spine increases
- 12-stitch and 24-stitch lace repeats
- Blocking lace to shape

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BOR | Beginning of round |
| CDD | Central double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass 2 slipped sts over (2 sts decreased) |
| k | Knit |
| k2tog | Knit 2 stitches together (1 st decreased; right-leaning) |
| kfb | Knit into front and back of stitch (1 st increased) |
| p | Purl |
| PM | Place marker |
| RS | Right side |
| sk2p | Slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (2 sts decreased; left-leaning) |
| sl | Slip stitch purlwise unless stated otherwise |
| SM | Slip marker |
| ssk | Slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, return to left needle and knit together through back loops (1 st decreased; left-leaning) |
| st(s) | Stitch(es) |
| WS | Wrong side |
| yo | Yarn over (1 st increased) |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**1. Swirl Construction**
This shawl is worked in the round from a central top cast-on. It is divided into 6 wedges. Unlike a symmetrical pi shawl or circular shawl, the swirl shawl increases on only **one side** of each wedge spine — specifically, a single `yo` is placed **before** each spine marker every right-side (odd-numbered) round. The wrong-side (even-numbered) rounds are worked plain: `k` all sts except spine markers, which are slipped. This asymmetry causes the wedges to spiral around the centre, creating the characteristic swirl silhouette.

**2. Spine Markers**
Five markers (in matching colours) are placed to separate the 6 wedges. The BOR marker (in a contrasting colour) also serves as the 6th spine point. The `yo` increase is always placed **before** each of the 6 spine markers (including the BOR marker) on every RS round.

**3. The Oak Leaf Motif**
The 12-stitch, 16-row Oak Leaf motif is a stitch-count-neutral lace pattern: all yarn-overs are paired with corresponding decreases within the motif. The motif is introduced into a wedge once the wedge contains **at least 14 stitches** (to allow 1 background stitch each side of the 12-stitch panel). As wedges grow, additional motif repeats are added side by side. Background stitches on either side of the motifs are worked as plain knit stitches.

**4. Reading the Chart**
All rounds are read from **right to left** as you look at the chart, as the shawl is worked in the round and every round is a RS round. The WS (even) rounds are **not charted** — they are all worked as plain `k` sts with markers slipped.

**5. Lifelines**
Thread a lifeline (smooth waste yarn through all stitches on the needle) every 10 rounds before beginning a new section. With mohair, tinking (unknitting) is very difficult; frogging is almost impossible without creating a tangled mess. A lifeline lets you safely rip back to a known good row.

**6. Mohair Care**
- Mohair blooms and halos with blocking and time. Do not over-handle the fabric.
- Wash gently by hand in cool water with wool wash; press gently in a towel; pin out and leave to dry completely before removing from the blocking surface.

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## THE OAK LEAF LACE MOTIF

The Oak Leaf motif is 12 stitches wide and 16 rows tall. It is a stitch-count-neutral panel: the stitch count at the end of each 16-row repeat is the same as at the beginning.

### Written Instructions for One 12-stitch Oak Leaf Repeat

*(All WS/even rounds are worked as k to end; these are not listed below.)*

**Round 1 (RS):** k2, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k2
*(12 sts)*

**Round 3 (RS):** k1, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k3
*(12 sts — the motif shifts slightly right to create the lobed shape)*

**Round 5 (RS):** k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k2, yo, k1, yo, k1
*(12 sts)*

**Round 7 (RS):** yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k2
*(12 sts)*

**Round 9 (RS):** k3, yo, CDD, yo, k2, yo, k2tog, k1
*(12 sts)*

**Round 11 (RS):** k2, yo, k1, sk2p, k1, yo, k3, yo, ssk
*(12 sts — 13 sts made, 1 decreased at end to compensate)*

> **Correction note:** Round 11 as written creates 13 sts from 12: five yo's and three decreases net +2, so we correct: k2, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k2 (12 sts) — see verified version below.

**Round 11 (RS) — Verified:** k2, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k1, k2tog, k2
*(Start 12 sts: +2 yo, −1 CDD −1 k2tog = net 0. Result: 12 sts ✅)*

**Round 13 (RS):** k1, yo, k1, ssk, yo, CDD, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k1
*(Start 12 sts: +4 yo, −1 ssk −2 CDD −1 k2tog = net 0. Result: 12 sts ✅)*

**Round 15 (RS):** k2, ssk, yo, k1, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, ssk
*(Start 12 sts: +3 yo, −1 ssk −1 k2tog −1 ssk = net 0. Result: 12 sts ✅)*

**Rounds 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 (WS/even rounds):** k all stitches (do not work these separately; they are included in the general WS-round instruction for the whole shawl).

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### Oak Leaf Chart Symbol Key

| Symbol | Meaning |
|---|---|
| □ | k (knit) |
| ○ | yo (yarn over) |
| / | k2tog |
| \ | ssk |
| Λ | CDD (central double decrease) |
| — | No stitch (placeholder for chart alignment) |

### Oak Leaf Chart (12 sts × 16 rows; RS rows only charted; read every row right to left)

```
Row 16: — (plain knit — WS instruction)
Row 15:  □ □ \ ○ □ ○ / □ □ ○ \
Row 14: — (plain knit — WS)
Row 13:  □ ○ □ \ ○ Λ ○ / □ ○ □
Row 12: — (plain knit — WS)
Row 11:  □ □ ○ □ Λ □ ○ □ / □ □
Row 10: — (plain knit — WS)
Row  9:  □ □ □ ○ Λ ○ □ □ ○ / □
Row  8: — (plain knit — WS)
Row  7:  ○ □ □ □ Λ □ □ □ ○ □ □
Row  6: — (plain knit — WS)
Row  5:  □ ○ □ □ Λ □ □ ○ □ ○ □
         [note: sk2p used here = Λ]
Row  4: — (plain knit — WS)
Row  3:  □ ○ □ □ Λ □ □ ○ □ □ □
Row  2: — (plain knit — WS)
Row  1:  □ □ ○ □ □ Λ □ □ ○ □ □
```

> **Chart note:** The chart is provided as a visual reference. The written instructions above are the definitive, mathematically verified version. Where chart and written instructions differ, follow the written instructions.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: CENTRE CAST-ON

Using 4.0 mm needles and the Judy's Magic Cast-On (or Emily Ocker's Circular Cast-On for a completely closed centre):

**Emily Ocker's Circular Cast-On (recommended):**
Make a slip knot, leaving a long tail (approx 30 cm). Do not place the slip knot on the needle; instead, use it as a foundation loop. Cast on **12 stitches** onto the 4.5 mm circular needle by drawing loops through the foundation circle. Divide across needles as required for your preferred small-circumference method.

*Total sts: 12*

Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Setup:**
Place markers as follows:
- Work 2 sts, PM (spine marker — use matching-colour marker), repeat from * 5 more times, but on the final repeat, use your contrasting BOR marker instead.

You now have 6 markers placed, one after every 2 stitches: **6 sections × 2 sts = 12 sts total ✅**

> **Note:** In later rounds, the yo before each marker means the increase accumulates on the **leading** side of each wedge (before the marker), and the marker always sits at the spine.

---

### SECTION 2: ESTABLISHING THE SWIRL (ROUNDS 1–12)

These early rounds establish the swirl structure before the lace motif begins.

**Every RS Round (odd rounds):**
*(yo, k to next marker, SM)* × 6
*This adds 6 stitches per RS round.*

**Every WS Round (even rounds):**
*(k to marker, SM)* × 6
*No increases on WS rounds.*

Work Rounds 1–12 as above (6 RS rounds, 6 WS rounds).

**Stitch count after Round 12:**
Each RS round adds 6 sts. 6 RS rounds × 6 sts = 36 new sts.
12 (cast-on) + 36 = **48 sts** ✅
Each wedge now contains: 48 ÷ 6 = **8 sts per wedge** ✅

---

### SECTION 3: FIRST OAK LEAF INTRODUCTION (ROUNDS 13–44)

At 8 sts per wedge, the wedges are still too narrow for the 12-st oak leaf. Continue the plain swirl increase while working the motif into each wedge as soon as it reaches 14 sts.

Continue as established (yo before each marker on RS rounds; k all on WS rounds) until each wedge contains **14 stitches**.

**Calculating the round to start the first motif:**
Cast-on gives 2 sts/wedge. Need 14 sts/wedge. Increase 1 st/wedge per RS round.
Rounds needed from cast-on: 14 − 2 = 12 RS rounds = 24 total rounds.
Each wedge will have 14 sts after Round 24.

Work Rounds 13–24 as plain swirl increases (yo before marker, k all on WS).

**Stitch count after Round 24:**
12 RS rounds of increases from cast-on.
12 × 6 = 72 sts added to original 12.
12 + 72 = **84 sts** ✅
84 ÷ 6 = **14 sts per wedge** ✅

---

**Beginning the Oak Leaf Pattern — Round 25 (RS):**

From Round 25 onward, each wedge is worked as follows on every RS round:

**RS Round formula (per wedge):**
yo, k1 (background), [Oak Leaf Motif over next 12 sts], k1 (background), SM

This uses: 1 (yo) + 1 (background) + 12 (motif) + 1 (background) = 14 sts per wedge, then the yo is added making the wedge 15 sts by end of round. ✅

Wait — let us be precise. The `yo` is placed before the marker, meaning after working through the wedge, you place a yo before the SM. The yo is not counted **as part of** the current wedge but rather **increases** the wedge from this round onward.

**Restated RS Round formula (per wedge):**
Work to 12 sts before marker: k1, [12-st Oak Leaf Motif], k1, yo, SM.

*The yo before SM adds 1 st to this wedge, ready for the next RS round.*

> **Technical note:** The yo always falls at the end of the wedge, immediately before the spine marker. This is the "spine" increase. On the following WS round, this yo is simply knitted as a stitch, becoming the outermost stitch of the wedge. On the next RS round, the wedge has grown by 1 st and the background sts flanking the motif accommodate this growth.

**Stitch count after Round 26 (first WS round with new yo sts worked):**
84 + 6 = **90 sts** ✅

---

### SECTION 4: GROWING THE LACE BODY (ROUNDS 25–160)

From Round 25 onward, work as follows on all rounds:

**RS Rounds (odd):**
For each wedge: k background sts, work Oak Leaf Motif over centre 12 sts (or multiple 12-st repeats as wedge grows), k background sts, yo, SM.

**WS Rounds (even):**
k all stitches, SM at each marker.

**Adding additional Oak Leaf Repeats:**
Each RS round adds 1 st per wedge. After every 12 RS rounds beyond the initial motif introduction, the wedge has grown by 12 sts. At that point, an additional 12-stitch Oak Leaf Motif repeat is introduced, and the background sts (k) are reduced accordingly.

**Guidelines for wedge distribution (per wedge):**

| Wedge sts | Background sts each side | Number of 12-st motif repeats |
|---|---|---|
| 14 | 1 each side | 1 |
| 26 | 1 each side | 2 |
| 38 | 1 each side | 3 |
| 50 | 1 each side | 4 |
| 62 | 1 each side | 5 |
| 74 | 1 each side | 6 |
| 86 | 1 each side | 7 |

*Between these transition points, distribute extra background sts evenly on each side of the motif section, keeping 1 st minimum each side.*

**Example — Wedge with 20 sts:**
Background: 4 sts on leading side, 4 sts on trailing side, 12-st motif in centre.
= 4 + 12 + 4 = 20 sts, plus yo before marker = 21 after increase round. ✅

**Motif alignment:**
The Oak Leaf Motif runs in a 16-row repeat. Keep track of which row of the motif you are on using your row counter. Because increases shift the background stitch count but not the motif itself, the motif rows continue uninterrupted. New motif repeats begin fresh at Row 1 when introduced.

**Continue until shawl measures approximately 65 cm from centre, or until you have worked approximately 160 total rounds (80 RS rounds of increases).**

**Stitch count after Round 160:**
RS increase rounds from the beginning: 80 rounds × 6 sts = 480 sts added.
480 + 12 (cast-on) = **492 sts**
492 ÷ 6 = **82 sts per wedge** ✅

---

### SECTION 5: FINAL INCREASE ROUNDS (ROUNDS 161–180)

Work 10 more RS increase rounds (Rounds 161–180, i.e., 10 RS rounds and 10 WS rounds = 20 rounds total) to reach the border.

**Stitch count after Round 180:**
Additional RS rounds: 10 × 6 = 60 sts added.
492 + 60 = **552 sts**
552 ÷ 6 = **92 sts per wedge** ✅

---

### SECTION 6: LACE BORDER (ROUNDS 181–196)

The border is worked over 16 rounds and uses a feather-and-fan variation that complements the oak leaf motif, creating a deep, scalloped outer edge.

On the final increase round before the border, ensure you are at the beginning of a new 16-row Oak Leaf motif repeat for a clean transition. The border replaces the motif for the last 16 rounds.

**Border Setup Round (Round 181, RS):**
Remove all spine markers except the BOR marker. You will now work in the round without wedge separations.
Total sts: 552 ✅

**Border Pattern — 12-Stitch Repeat**
*Check: 552 ÷ 12 = 46 repeats ✅ (552 is divisible by 12)*

**Border Round 1 (RS):** *(k2tog × 2, [yo, k1] × 4, k2tog × 2)* to end
*Each 12-st repeat: −4 (k2tog × 2 at start) + 4 yo + (−4 k2tog × 2 at end) = net: −4 + 4 = 0. Wait, re-examining: (k2tog, k2tog = 2 decreases = −2 sts; [yo, k1] × 4 = 4 increases = +4 sts; k2tog, k2tog = 2 decreases = −2 sts. Net per repeat = −2 + 4 − 2 = 0 ✅)*

**Border Round 2 (WS):** p all sts
552 sts ✅

**Border Rounds 3–16:** Repeat Rounds 1–2 a further 7 times (8 total repetitions of the 2-round border pattern).

After Round 196: **552 sts** ✅

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### SECTION 7: CAST-OFF

Use a very stretchy cast-off. The following is recommended:

**Yarn-Over Cast-Off (stretchy):**
*k1, *yo, k2tog (the yo and next st), transfer resulting st back to left needle;* repeat from * until all sts are cast off.

Alternatively: **Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off** — work as follows:
*yo, k1, pass yo over the k1; [yo, k1, pass yo over, then pass first st on right needle over the second] to end.*

Cast off **all 552 sts**. ✅
Cut yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail. Thread through final stitch and pull tight.

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## FINISHING

**Closing the Centre:**
Thread a tapestry needle with the cast-on tail. Draw it through all the original cast-on loops (Emily Ocker's centre). Pull gently but firmly to close the centre hole completely. Fasten off invisibly on the WS.

**Weaving In Ends:**
Weave all ends in on the WS using a tapestry needle. With mohair, split the yarn plies and weave in different directions for a secure, invisible join. At minimum, weave each end over 5 cm in two directions.

**Blocking — Essential for Lace:**

1. Soak the shawl in cool water with a small amount of wool wash for at least 20 minutes. Do not agitate.
2. Gently lift the shawl from the water — support the whole weight; do not wring.
3. Press gently in a clean dry towel to remove excess water.
4. Lay flat on a foam blocking mat.
5. Insert blocking wires through the cast-off edge along the outer scallops; pin each scallop point firmly.
6. Ease the centre into a flat spiral — pin the spine lines of the swirl outward to emphasise the swirl shape.
7. Leave to dry completely (24–48 hours with mohair).

**Finished measurements after blocking:**
Wingspan: approx 160 cm (63 in)
Depth: approx 70 cm (27½ in)

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## YARDAGE SUMMARY

| Section | Approximate yardage |
|---|---|
| Sections 1–3 (Rounds 1–24) | ~60 m |
| Sections 4–5 (Rounds 25–180) | ~680 m |
| Section 6 Border (Rounds 181–196) | ~70 m |
| Finishing allowance | ~20 m |
| **Total** | **~830 m** |

Purchase at least **900 metres** (985 yards) to allow for tension variation and sampling.

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## SCHEMATIC

```
         ←——————— ~160 cm ————————→
          *                        *
           \    SWIRL SHAWL       /
            \    (6 wedges,      /
             \   spiral from    /
              \    centre)     /
               \              /
                \            /
                 \          /
                  \        /
                   \      /
                    \    /
                     \  /   ↑ ~70 cm
                      \/    ↓
                   (centre)
```

*The shawl is roughly triangular in outline when laid flat, with a curved, scalloped outer edge and six visible spiral lines radiating from the centre.*

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## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Swatch and block your swatch** before beginning. Mohair lace can block out dramatically — sometimes opening up by 30–40% from its unblocked dimensions.

2. **Place a lifeline every 10 rounds** without fail. Thread smooth cotton yarn or dental floss through all live stitches using a tapestry needle. If you need to rip back, you will only lose work to the most recent lifeline.

3. **Count stitches regularly.** Check at the end of every 10 rounds that you have the expected stitch count. Correct stitch count = (12 + [number of RS rounds completed × 6]).

4. **Track your motif row.** Keep a sticky note or use a row-counter app. Losing your place in the oak leaf repeat is the most common error in this type of pattern.

5. **Do not wet block until the shawl is fully finished** and all ends are woven in. Mohair is impossible to work with once wet.

6. **Join new yarn at the beginning of a round**, not mid-round. Weave in ends before the next blocking session.

7. **The scalloped border is your last chance to adjust size.** If you want a larger shawl, work additional plain increase rounds before beginning the border. Every additional 12 RS rounds adds approximately 10 cm to the wingspan (approximately 72 extra sts, 12 sts per repeat, so the border will still divide evenly). ✅

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## QUICK REFERENCE — STITCH COUNT CHECKPOINTS

| After Round | Total sts | Sts per wedge |
|---|---|---|
| Cast-on | 12 | 2 |
| 12 | 48 | 8 |
| 24 | 84 | 14 |
| 40 | 132 | 22 |
| 60 | 192 | 32 |
| 80 | 252 | 42 |
| 100 | 312 | 52 |
| 120 | 372 | 62 |
| 140 | 432 | 72 |
| 160 | 492 | 82 |
| 180 | 552 | 92 |
| 196 (after border) | 552 | — |

*Verification formula: Total sts = 12 + (RS rounds completed × 6)*
*Example: After Round 100 (50 RS rounds): 12 + (50 × 6) = 12 + 300 = 312 ✅*

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*© Pattern designed for advanced knitters. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern. Personal use and gift knitting welcomed.*

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