purlJam

<pattern>

# WIDE BOAT NECK TOP WITH MODIFIED SEAMLESS SET-IN SLEEVES
## Machine Knitting Pattern

**Designer's Note**: This pattern adapts the seamless set-in sleeve concept for machine knitting. While Susie Myers' contiguous method is specifically designed for hand knitting with circular needles and live stitches, this pattern achieves a similar nearly-seamless result using machine-friendly techniques including minimal seaming and integrated sleeve caps.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4 Medium) yarn
- **Yardage**: 1000 (1100, 1200, 1400) yards
- **Suggested yarn**: Universal Cascade 220, Lion Brand Wool-Ease, or similar worsted

**Machine**: 
- Standard gauge (4.5mm) knitting machine
- Single bed (ribber optional for cuffs/hem but not required)
- Suitable for all standard gauge machines (Brother, Silver Reed, Passap)

**Notions**:
- Waste yarn for cast-on
- Ravel cord
- Cast-on comb and weights (100-150g per side)
- Transfer tools (single and 3-prong)
- Latch tool for bind-off
- Tapestry needle for grafting
- Stitch holders or spare needles
- Steamer or blocking equipment

---

## TENSION/GAUGE

**Tension Dial Setting**: T6.5 (adjust based on your machine and desired drape)

**Gauge (over stockinette)**:
- 5.5 stitches = 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- 7.5 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm)

**To Check Gauge**:
Cast on 30 stitches, work 60 rows at T6.5. Remove from machine and let relax for 30 minutes. Swatch should measure approximately 5.5" wide × 8" tall. **Adjust tension dial if needed before starting garment.**

---

## SIZES

Pattern is written for sizes: **S (M, L, XL)**

**Finished Measurements**:
- **Bust circumference**: 36 (40, 44, 48)" / 91.5 (101.5, 112, 122) cm
- **Body length** (shoulder to hem): 24 (24.5, 25, 25.5)" / 61 (62, 63.5, 65) cm
- **Armhole depth**: 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5)" / 20 (21.5, 23, 24) cm
- **Sleeve length** (underarm to cuff): 17 (17.5, 18, 18)" / 43 (44.5, 45.5, 45.5) cm
- **Boat neck width**: Back 18 (19, 20, 21)", Front 20 (21, 22, 23)"

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **RC** = Row Counter
- **COL** = Carriage On Left
- **COR** = Carriage On Right
- **T** = Tension dial setting
- **WY** = Waste Yarn
- **MY** = Main Yarn
- **HP** = Hold Position (cam lever set to hold)
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **inc** = increase
- **dec** = decrease
- **WP** = Working Position
- **NWP** = Non-Working Position

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction Method**: This top is worked in pieces (back, front, sleeves) then joined with minimal seaming. The sleeve caps are shaped to set in seamlessly.

2. **Body Direction**: Body is worked flat from bottom edge to shoulders.

3. **Boat Neck Shaping**: Wide, shallow neckline requires minimal bind-off and no picked-up bands.

4. **Ease**: Pattern includes 2-4" positive ease for comfortable fit.

5. **Weights**: This worsted fabric needs adequate weight throughout knitting. Use cast-on comb plus hang 50g weights every 60-80 rows.

6. **Carriage Settings**: Unless otherwise noted, work with carriage set to stockinette (no part buttons engaged, main bed only).

7. **Selvage Stitches**: The outermost 2 stitches on each side are selvage for seaming. Keep these in work throughout.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**SETUP**:
1. Using WY and ravel cord, cast on **99 (110, 121, 132) sts** using every needle.
2. Arrangement: For size S, needles L49 to R49 (99 needles); for M, L55 to R54 (110 needles); for L, L60 to R60 (121 needles); for XL, L66 to R65 (132 needles).
3. Attach cast-on comb and weights (approximately 100g distributed evenly).
4. Set tension dial to T6.5.
5. Set carriage to knit (no part buttons engaged).
6. Knit 6-8 rows WY, ending COR.
7. RC 000. Change to MY.

**BODY**:
- RC 000, COR: Knit to COL. *RC 001.*
- Continue in stockinette, knitting every row.
- Hang additional 50g weight at RC 060.
- Continue until **RC 120 (123, 126, 129)**. Piece measures approximately 16 (16.4, 16.8, 17.2)" from ravel cord.

**CHECK**: At this point, body width should measure approximately 18 (20, 22, 24)" and length 16 (16.4, 16.8, 17.2)".

**ARMHOLE SHAPING**:
- RC 120 (123, 126, 129), COL: 
  - **Bind off 6 (7, 8, 9) sts at beginning of next 2 rows** as follows:
  - COL: Using latch tool or transfer method, bind off 6 (7, 8, 9) sts at left edge. Knit to COR.
  - COR: Bind off 6 (7, 8, 9) sts at right edge. Knit to COL.
  - **Remaining: 87 (96, 105, 114) sts.**

- **Decrease rows** (work decreases 3 stitches in from edge to maintain selvage):
  - Next and every following 2nd row, decrease 1 st each end as follows:
  - Transfer st from 4th needle from left edge onto 5th needle (creates dec). Transfer st from 4th needle from right edge onto 5th needle.
  - Repeat decreases **5 (6, 7, 8) times total** over next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows.
  - **Remaining after decreases: 77 (84, 91, 98) sts.**
  - RC now reads **130 (135, 140, 145)**.

- Continue straight (no shaping) until **RC 180 (187, 194, 201)**.
  - Armhole measures approximately 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5)".

**SHOULDER & NECK SHAPING** (using short rows):
- RC 180 (187, 194, 201), COL:
  - **Left shoulder** (worked first using hold):
  - Set carriage to HP (hold position).
  - Push **center 37 (40, 43, 46) sts to HP** (these are neck stitches).
  - Working on **left shoulder only = 20 (22, 24, 26) sts**:
    - COR: Knit to COL. *RC 181.*
    - COL: Push 4 sts at neck edge to HP. Knit to COR. *RC 182.*
    - COR: Knit to COL. *RC 183.*
    - COL: Push 4 sts at neck edge to HP. Knit to COR. *RC 184.*
    - COR: Knit to COL. *RC 185.*
    - COL: Push 4 sts at neck edge to HP. Knit to COR. *RC 186.*
    - Continue until all shoulder sts are gradually stepped. Final shoulder = approximately 8 (10, 12, 14) sts active.
  
- **Place left shoulder sts on waste yarn**: Knit several rows WY, remove from machine carefully onto spare needle or thread.

- **Right shoulder**: Return carriage to work right shoulder, mirror the left shoulder shaping.

- **Neck stitches**: Place center 37 (40, 43, 46) sts on WY for boat neck back.

---

### FRONT

Work exactly as for BACK until **RC 170 (177, 184, 191)** (approximately 10 rows before shoulder shaping).

**FRONT NECK SHAPING** (wider/deeper than back for boat neck):
- RC 170 (177, 184, 191), COL:
  - **Place center 41 (44, 47, 50) sts on hold or WY** (wider than back neck).
  - Work each shoulder separately:

**LEFT FRONT SHOULDER**:
- Working on left 18 (20, 22, 24) sts only:
  - At neck edge, decrease 1 st every other row **2 times** by transferring 4th st from neck edge inward.
  - Remaining: 16 (18, 20, 22) sts.
  - Continue straight until RC matches back shoulder, **RC 180 (187, 194, 201)**.
  - Shape shoulder with short rows to match back (work gradually stepped short rows, placing shoulder sts on WY when complete).

**RIGHT FRONT SHOULDER**:
- Mirror left front shoulder shaping.

---

### SLEEVES (make 2)

**SETUP**:
1. Using WY and ravel cord, cast on **44 (44, 48, 48) sts** for cuff.
2. Arrangement: For S/M, needles L22 to R21 (44 needles); for L/XL, needles L24 to R23 (48 needles).
3. Attach cast-on comb and weights (approximately 75g).
4. T6.5.
5. Knit 6-8 rows WY, ending COR.
6. RC 000. Change to MY.

**CUFF**:
- RC 000: Knit 10 rows stockinette for rolled cuff edge.

**SLEEVE INCREASES**:
- Starting at RC 010, **increase 1 st each end every 6th row** as follows:
  - Bring 1 needle into WP at each end (left and right).
  - Using transfer tool, pick up loop from st below and place on new needle.
  - Continue increases every 6th row until you have **77 (84, 88, 92) sts** total.
  - This takes approximately **100 (120, 120, 132) rows**.

- Continue straight (no increases) until sleeve measures **17 (17.5, 18, 18)" from ravel cord**, approximately **RC 127 (131, 135, 135)**.

**SLEEVE CAP SHAPING**:
- RC 127 (131, 135, 135), COL:
  - **Bind off 6 (7, 8, 9) sts at beginning of next 2 rows** (matching body armhole bind-off).
  - **Remaining: 65 (70, 72, 74) sts.**

- **Decrease rows**:
  - Decrease 1 st each end every other row **12 (13, 13, 13) times**.
  - Then decrease 1 st each end every row **8 (9, 10, 11) times**.
  - **Remaining: 25 (26, 26, 26) sts.**

- **Bind off remaining cap stitches** using WY or bind-off method.

**CHECK MATH**:
- Size S: 65 - (12×2) - (8×2) = 65 - 24 - 16 = 25 sts ✓
- Size M: 70 - (13×2) - (9×2) = 70 - 26 - 18 = 26 sts ✓
- Size L: 72 - (13×2) - (10×2) = 72 - 26 - 20 = 26 sts ✓
- Size XL: 74 - (13×2) - (11×2) = 74 - 26 - 22 = 26 sts ✓

---

## FINISHING

**JOINING SHOULDERS**:
1. Using three-needle join method or kitchener stitch, graft front shoulders to back shoulders. Place shoulder sts from WY back onto needles, align front and back with wrong sides together, and use linker or hand-graft.

**SETTING IN SLEEVES**:
1. With body flat and right side facing, pin sleeve cap into armhole, matching:
   - Center of sleeve cap to shoulder seam
   - Underarm bind-offs aligned
   - Ease any fullness evenly around cap
2. Using matt