purlJam

# Winter Woods Fair Isle Socks
**Difficulty:** Intermediate
**Method:** Cuff-Down
**Yarn Weight:** Worsted / Aran

These substantial, warm socks feature a classic geometric colourwork band on the leg. They are knit from the cuff down using a traditional heel flap. The worsted weight yarn makes them knit up quickly—perfect for gifting.

### Sizes
*   **Small (Child/Small Woman):** 40 sts (Circumference: 18 cm unstretched)
*   **Medium (Woman/Small Man):** 48 sts (Circumference: 21.5 cm unstretched)
*   **Large (Man):** 56 sts (Circumference: 25 cm unstretched)

### Materials
*   **Yarn:** Worsted weight wool (approx. 200m per 100g).
    *   **Main Colour (MC):** 100g (approx 180m) – e.g., Grey
    *   **Contrast Colour (CC):** 50g (approx 50m) – e.g., Deep Red or Navy
*   **Needles:**
    *   3.25mm (US 3) DPNs or circulars for ribbing.
    *   3.75mm (US 5) DPNs or circulars for main body and colourwork.
*   **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch marker, scissors.

### Tension (Gauge)
20 stitches and 28 rounds = 10 cm x 10 cm in stockinette stitch on larger needles.
*Critical Note: If your colourwork is tight, use a 4.0mm needle for the chart section only.*

### Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
*   **k:** knit
*   **p:** purl
*   **sl1:** slip 1 stitch purlwise
*   **k2tog:** knit 2 stitches together (decrease)
*   **ssk:** slip, slip, knit (decrease)
*   **p2tog:** purl 2 stitches together (decrease)
*   **st(s):** stitch(es)
*   **RS/WS:** Right Side / Wrong Side
*   **MC:** Main Colour
*   **CC:** Contrast Colour

---

## CHARTS

**Instructions for Reading Charts:**
*   Read charts from right to left for every round.
*   Catch floats (strands of yarn behind the work) every 3-4 stitches to prevent snagging, though this specific pattern uses short floats.
*   Keep the non-dominant colour loosely carried behind the work.

**CHART A: The Nordic Band** (8-stitch repeat)
*   **Small:** Work 5 times per round.
*   **Medium:** Work 6 times per round.
*   **Large:** Work 7 times per round.

```text
Row 9:  □ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □
Row 8:  □ ■ ■ □ □ ■ ■ □
Row 7:  ■ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ ■
Row 6:  ■ □ □ □ □ □ □ ■
Row 5:  ■ □ □ ■ ■ □ □ ■
Row 4:  ■ □ □ □ □ □ □ ■
Row 3:  ■ ■ □ □ □ □ ■ ■
Row 2:  □ ■ ■ □ □ ■ ■ □
Row 1:  □ □ ■ ■ ■ ■ □ □
```
**Key:**
□ = Main Colour (MC)
■ = Contrast Colour (CC)

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### 1. The Cuff
Using **3.25mm** needles and **MC**, cast on **40 (48, 56)** sts.
Distribute stitches evenly across needles. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

Work in k2, p2 ribbing for 4 cm (approx 1.5 inches).

### 2. The Leg & Colourwork
Switch to **3.75mm** needles.
Knit 1 round plain in MC. [Stitch count remains 40 (48, 56)]

**Begin Chart A:**
Work rows 1–9 of Chart A. Ensure you leave the yarn floats loose behind the work so the sock can stretch over the heel.

After completing the chart, cut CC (leave a tail for weaving in).
Continue in MC only. Knit in stockinette (knit every round) until the leg measures 15 cm (6 inches) from the cast-on edge, or desired length.

### 3. The Heel Flap
You will now work back and forth in rows on half the stitches. The other half (instep stitches) will be held on the cable or spare needles.

**Setup:** Knit across the first **20 (24, 28)** sts. Turn work. You will work the heel flap on these stitches only.

*   **Row 1 (WS):** Sl1, p to end.
*   **Row 2 (RS):** *Sl1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the heel flap measures roughly square:
*   **Small:** 20 rows
*   **Medium:** 24 rows
*   **Large:** 28 rows
End after working a WS row.

### 4. The Heel Turn (Dutch/Square Heel)
This shapes the cup of the heel.
*[Inline Math Check for Medium: 24 heel sts total]*

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1, k **12 (15, 17)**, ssk, turn.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1, p **6 (8, 8)**, p2tog, turn.
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1, k to 1 st before gap, ssk, turn.
**Row 4 (WS):** Sl1, p to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all side stitches are worked and you are left with only the centre stitches.
*   **Stitches remaining:** **8 (10, 10)** sts.

### 5. The Gusset
We now return to working in the round and decrease the extra fabric created by the heel.

1.  **Pick up:** Knit the heel sts. Pick up and knit **11 (13, 15)** sts along the left side of the heel flap.
2.  **Instep:** Knit across the **20 (24, 28)** held instep stitches.
3.  **Pick up:** Pick up and knit **11 (13, 15)** sts along the right side of the heel flap. Knit to the centre of the heel sts. This is the new Beginning of Round.

*[Math Check Medium: 5 (half heel) + 13 (side) + 24 (instep) + 13 (side) + 5 (half heel) = 60 sts total]*

**Decrease Rounds:**
*   **Round 1:** Knit to last 3 sts of first needle (heel side), k2tog, k1. Knit across instep sts. On next needle (heel side), k1, ssk, knit to end. [2 sts decreased]
*   **Round 2:** Knit all sts.

Repeat these two rounds until you return to your original stitch count: **40 (48, 56)** sts.

### 6. The Foot
Continue working plain stockinette (knit every round) until the foot measures 5 cm (2 inches) less than the desired total foot length.
*   *Approximate length to start toe:*
    *   Small: 14 cm
    *   Medium: 18 cm
    *   Large: 20 cm

### 7. The Toe
*   **Round 1:** *Knit **3 (4, 5)**, k2tog; rep from * to end.
    *[Math Check Medium: 48 - 8 decs = 40 sts]*
*   **Round 2-3:** Knit all sts.
*   **Round 4:** *Knit **2 (3, 4)**, k2tog; rep from * to end.
    *[Math Check Medium: 40 - 8 decs = 32 sts]*
*   **Round 5-6:** Knit all sts.
*   **Round 7:** *Knit **1 (2, 3)**, k2tog; rep from * to end.
    *[Math Check Medium: 32 - 8 decs = 24 sts]*
*   **Round 8:** Knit all sts.
*   **Round 9:** *Knit **0 (1, 2)**, k2tog; rep from * to end.
    *[Math Check Medium: 24 - 8 decs = 16 sts]*

*(For Large size only: Work one more plain round, then k2tog around).*

Cut yarn leaving a 30 cm tail.

### 8. Finishing
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. Use **Kitchener Stitch** (grafting) to close the remaining stitches seamlessly.

**Kitchener Stitch Cheat Sheet:**
1.  **Setup:** Front needle Purlwise (leave st on), Back needle Knitwise (leave st on).
2.  **Repeat:**
    *   Front: Knitwise off, Purlwise on.
    *   Back: Purlwise off, Knitwise on.

Weave in all ends. Block the socks by soaking in lukewarm water and laying flat to dry; this is crucial for smoothing out the colourwork tension.