Vault-Inspired Chunky Cowl & Fingerless Mitts - Knit Pattern
Inspired by rugged, post-apocalyptic utility wear (vault-style seams and strong vertical ribs) this quick-knit bulky cowl and matching fingerless mitts set is functional, warm and full of texture. Worked in the round with a simple broken-rib texture to suggest suit panels and channels. One size with easy adjustments; suitable for adventurous beginners.
SKILL LEVEL
Easy / Confident beginner: knit in the round, simple increases for thumb gusset.
MATERIALS
- Yarn: Bulky / Chunky (weight 5). Approximately 360 yards (330 meters) total. About 3 x 100 g skeins (example: 100 g ≈ 120 yd / 110 m each; actual yardage per skein varies by brand).
- Needles (use circular for cowl; DPNs or magic loop for mitts):
- Cowl: US 10.5 / UK (old) 3 / 6.5 mm circular needle, 16" (40 cm) or 24" (60 cm) length for working in the round.
- Ribbing (optional slightly firmer): US 10 / UK 4 / 6.0 mm circular needle, same length.
- Mitts: Set of 4 double-pointed needles or magic-loop circular: US 10.5 / UK 3 / 6.5 mm.
- Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scrap yarn for holder, stitch holder or spare dpn.
- Optional: small length of contrasting yarn for decorative seam.
GAUGE
12 sts x 18 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 10.5 / 6.5 mm. Because this is bulky yarn, gauge can vary widely; swatch and adjust needle size to match desired fabric density.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
- Cowl circumference: about 24" (61 cm)
- Cowl height: about 10" (25 cm)
- Mitts: Circumference about 8.5" (21.5 cm) unstretched; length 8.5" (21.5 cm) from cuff to top, thumb placed approx 2.25" (5.5 cm) from cuff.
ABBREVIATIONS (US)
- k = knit
- p = purl
- k2tog = knit two together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rnd = round
- CO = cast on
- WS = wrong side
- RS = right side
- PM = place marker
- SM = slip marker
- CO = cast on
NOTES
This set is designed to echo vertical channeling. The (Vault) look is conveyed by alternating columns of broken rib and plain knit to create ridged channels. The pattern is easily adjusted: add or subtract repeats in multiples of the stitch pattern repeat (8 sts) to change circumference.
STITCH PATTERN (Broken-Channel Rib) - worked in the round
Multiple of 8 sts
Rnd repeat: *K5, P3* around.
This produces long knit columns with narrow purl channels; for a deeper rib, substitute K3, P1 repeat.
COWL - ONE SIZE
- CO 72 sts loosely using long-tail or preferred CO. Join to work in the round being careful not to twist. PM to mark beginning of round.
- Optional: Work 1.5" (4 cm) of 2x2 rib (K2, P2) on US 10 / 6.0 mm for a firmer lower edge.
- Switch to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm if you used smaller needles for ribbing. Work broken-channel rib rnds as defined: *K5, P3* around for 18 rounds (about 7.5" / 19 cm) or until cowl reaches desired height minus top ribbing.
- Work 1.5" (4 cm) of 2x2 rib on US 10 / 6.0 mm to match lower edge, or continue with the broken-channel rib for a stretchy top edge.
- Bind off loosely in pattern (bind off knit stitches knitwise and purl stitches purlwise) to preserve elasticity. Weave in ends. Block lightly to relax fabric if desired; bulky knits need minimal blocking: soak briefly and lay flat to shape.
FINGERLESS MITTS - TWO IDENTICAL
These are worked top-down starting with cuff, worked in the round. Thumb gusset is created with simple increases.
- CO 36 sts loosely, join in the round. PM to mark beginning.
- Work 2.5" (6.5 cm) of 2x2 rib (K2, P2) on US 10 / 6.0 mm for a neat cuff. Switch to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm.
- Work broken-channel rib pattern (*K5, P3*) for 6 rnds to establish texture.
- Begin thumb gusset - place a marker to mark gusset start (GUSSET PM):
- Rnd 1: K to marker, PM, K1, M1L, K1, PM, K to end of rnd. (Creates 2 increases separated by base stitches)
- Rnd 2: Knit all sts.
- Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until you have increased 10 sts total for the gusset (this will be approximately 5 increase rounds). You should have 46 sts total (36 + 10).
- Place gusset sts on scrap yarn or holder: On the next rnd, K to 2 sts before the second gusset marker, K2tog, slip next 6 (or the number you increased) gusset sts onto holder, CO 2 sts over the gap (or pick up and knit 2 sts from base if you prefer a neater join), continue to end of rnd. Now you will work the hand with the reduced st count.
- Work even in pattern (*K5, P3* across, adjusting pattern repeat at the seam) until mitt measures ~6.25" (16 cm) from cast-on edge or desired length to base of fingers.
- For thumb: Place held gusset sts onto needles, pick up 2 sts at the base gap, join and work in the round for about 1.75" (4.5 cm) or until thumb reaches desired length, then bind off loosely in pattern.
- For top of mitt: Work 4 rnds of broken-channel rib, then 4 rnds of 2x2 rib on smaller needles (optional). Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends and block lightly.
SIZING ADJUSTMENTS
- To change cowl circumference: add or subtract repeats of 8 sts. Each repeat adds or removes about 2.6" (6.5 cm) at current gauge.
- To make mitts larger or smaller: change CO in multiples of 8 sts (e.g., CO 44 for a larger mitt) and adjust thumb-gusset increase count accordingly to maintain shape.
FINISHING
- Weave in all ends with tapestry needle. For a subtle decorative accent, run a strand of contrasting color along one vertical knit column to suggest a stitched seam.
- Block lightly: soak in lukewarm water with mild wool wash for 10–15 minutes, press out excess water (do not wring), lay flat to dry shaping to measurements.
CARE
Hand wash cold, gentle detergent. Lay flat to dry. Avoid tumble drying to preserve shape and loft of bulky yarn.
YARN SUBSTITUTIONS & NOTES
Any bulky/chunky yarn will work; fiber content changes drape: acrylic or blends are very warm and easy-care; pure wool gives loft and durability. Check gauge and adjust needle sizes. If using super-bulky, decrease needle size or reduce CO to avoid an overly large fabric.
TROUBLESHOOTING
- Too tight fabric: go up one needle size.
- Too loose/floppy: go down one needle size or add a few stitches to make fabric denser.
- Thumb is too short: try on as you go or add 4–8 rounds to thumb length.
NOTES ON COPYRIGHT & DESIGN
This design is inspired by the aesthetic of welded seams, vertical channels and functional utility garments. It does not reproduce or use any trademarked artwork or character likeness.
Pattern and photos (where applicable) by PurlJam. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam
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