Top-down, circular yoke cardigan with a vintage-inspired bat-wing lace motif across the yoke. Worked in DK/light-weight yarn with raglan increases and a delicate eyelet lace between raglan lines. Seamless construction, set-in sleeves are created by placing sleeve stitches on holders, then knitting the body in the round. Fit: Vintage relaxed; choose the finished chest measurement closest to your upper-bust plus desired ease.
DK / Light (US 3) recommended. Example: 225 yds (206 m) per 100 g ball.
20 sts x 28 rounds = 4\" (10 cm) in stockinette using US 6 / 4.0 mm. If your gauge is different, change needle size to obtain correct gauge. The pattern is sized to gauge; final stitch counts assume this gauge.
Gauge = 5 sts per inch. Final stitch counts (total around after yoke increases and before separation):
These totals are divided into four sections (front, sleeve, back, sleeve) when you separate for the body and sleeves.
Rnd: *k1, p1* around.
Round (work between raglan markers across each section): *k2, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo* repeat to next marker.
Notes: The lace round contains 2 yos and 2 decreases (ssk and k2tog) so stitch count across the lace repeats remains balanced. Work the lace motif over stitches between raglan markers; partial repeats can occur near markers — follow the sequence and continue repeats across the full yoke.
1) Provisional cast-on for neck band and join in the round. 2) Work neck ribbing; switch to larger needle and begin yoke with 4 raglan markers. 3) Work lace rounds between raglan markers and increase 8 sts evenly across four raglan seams on increase rounds (kfb before and after each marker). Repeat increase rounds until the total number of stitches equals the final stitch count for your selected size. 4) Place sleeve stitches on waste yarn/holders and continue body in the round. 5) Work body to desired length and finish hem in rib. 6) Return to sleeves, place stitches on needles, work in the round to desired sleeve length, finish with rib. 7) Pick up stitches for button band and/or neck finishing if desired; block and sew on buttons.
Using smaller circular needle (US 5 / 3.75 mm) and provisional cast-on, CO the following number of sts for each size (allowing a comfortable neck circumference): XS 64, S 68, M 72, L 76, XL 80, 2X 84, 3X 88. Join carefully avoiding twist and place 4 evenly spaced markers for raglan lines (pm after first section and then every quarter).
Work 1\" (2.5 cm) of rib (k1, p1) in the round. Switch to larger needle (US 6 / 4.0 mm).
Setup round: knit one round placing raglan markers that divide your stitches into four sections.
Increase rounds (work every 2nd round as follows): On each increase round: *K to 1 st before next marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb; repeat from * 3 more times (8 sts increased total this round). On non-increase rounds: work the Bat Lace pattern between the raglan markers: *k2, yo, ssk, k4, k2tog, yo* across each section stopping at the marker, then continue with the raglan stitch sequence at the markers as noted above.
Work increase rounds every other round (i.e., increase round, then one lace or plain round, then increase) until your total stitch count around equals the target total for your size: XS 160, S 180, M 200, L 220, XL 240, 2X 260, 3X 280. (Number of increase rounds from your starting CO to reach final count: XS 12, S 14, M 16, L 18, XL 20, 2X 22, 3X 24.)
Tip: The lace is worked continuously between raglan markers. If a partial repeat is needed at the end of a section before a raglan marker, follow the stitch sequence until you reach the marker and resume after it.
When you have reached the target total stitch count, place sleeve stitches (the stitches in the two quarter sections between raglan markers) on waste yarn or holders. For this pattern that will be approximately:
Join the body stitches (front and back sections) by moving the stitch count for the two body sections onto your needles and continuing in the round. Begin body shaping: if you want waist shaping, decrease evenly across the first few rounds (see notes below). Otherwise continue in stockinette (knit every round) and work 1\" of rib at the hem.
Work in stockinette in the round until body measures the desired length from underarm (e.g., 15\" / 38 cm for a vintage hip length). Work 1\" (2.5 cm) rib (k1, p1) for hem. Bind off in rib or work a stretchy bind-off.
Transfer sleeve stitches from waste yarn to needles using DPNs or magic loop. Pick up 1 or 2 sts at the underarm join if desired to avoid gap. Join in the round and work in stockinette, decreasing evenly if you want a tapered sleeve (e.g., decrease 1 st every 6 rounds 6–8 times for a moderate taper). Work to desired sleeve length (e.g., 17\" / 43 cm for full sleeve), ending with 1\" rib (k1, p1) and bind off in rib.
If you used provisional cast-on, carefully remove waste yarn and pick up live stitches along the cast-on edge on smaller needles (US5). Work a button band: pick up and knit approx one stitch for every two edge rounds (adjust to fit button size). Work 6–8 rounds of k1, p1 rib for a neat band. Make buttonholes on the right front by working *k1, p1* across band and on the buttonhole round: when reaching desired buttonhole location: k1, yo, k2tog (or bind off 2 sts and CO 2 on next round) to create a small vertical slit. Space buttons evenly (commonly 6–8 buttons depending on length). Sew on buttons and weave ends.
Follow yarn label instructions. Many DK yarns benefit from gentle hand wash and drying flat to preserve shape and lace definition.
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