Waffle Stitch Baby Cardigan — Easy Knit in Pieces

An easy, boxy baby cardigan worked in pieces with a slip-stitch waffle texture. Designed for knitters who prefer simple construction: back, two fronts, two sleeves and a picked-up button band. Clear, size-graded instructions make it simple to adapt. Gauge is crucial for fit; see notes below.

Sizes & Finished Measurements

• Newborn (0–3 months): Chest 17” (43 cm); Body length 9” (23 cm)
• 3–6 months: Chest 19” (48 cm); Body length 10” (25.5 cm)
• 6–12 months: Chest 21” (53 cm); Body length 11” (28 cm)
• 12–18 months: Chest 22.5” (57 cm); Body length 12” (30.5 cm)

Materials

• Yarn: Light DK / Baby DK. Suggested: 100 g skein = approx 230 yards / 210 metres (adjust if your yarn differs).
• Yardage per size (approx): Newborn 150 yds / 137 m (approx 65 g); 3–6m 200 yds / 183 m (approx 90 g); 6–12m 260 yds / 238 m (approx 115 g); 12–18m 320 yds / 293 m (approx 140 g). For skeins of 100 g (230 yds / 210 m): Newborn 1 skein; 3–6m 1–2 skeins; 6–12m 2 skeins; 12–18m 2–3 skeins.
• Needles: US 7 (UK 5, 4.5 mm) straight or circular (for body pieces worked flat); smaller needles for rib/band: US 6 (UK 4, 4.0 mm). Also a 16–24” / 40–60 cm circular in same size is handy for picking up bands.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, 4–6 small buttons (12–18 mm / 1–4 cm), scrap yarn for provisional cast-on if you prefer.

Gauge

20 sts and 28 rows = 4” / 10 cm in Waffle Stitch on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles. IMPORTANT: If you get more sts/inch, go down a needle size; if fewer, go up. Waffle stitch creates a dense fabric so checking gauge is essential.

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• sl1 wyif = slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front
• k2tog = knit 2 together (decrease)
• st(s) = stitch(es)

Waffle Stitch (worked flat)

Pattern multiple: 3 sts + 2 extra.

1. Row 1 (RS): *K1, P2* to last st, K1.
2. Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
3. Row 3 (RS): *K2, sl1 wyif* to last 2 sts, K2.
4. Row 4 (WS): Knit across.

Repeat rows 1–4 for the waffle texture. (This slip-stitch waffle builds small raised squares; keep selvage sts neat by working the first and last stitch of each row in garter if you like: slip first st purlwise, knit last st.)

General Notes

• Body is worked flat: back and two fronts, each front includes a built-in 1” garter-stitch button band (worked as extra stitches on the front edge).
• Counts given for cast-on are calculated from the gauge above; you may adjust cast-on in multiples of 3+2 to keep the waffle pattern intact.
• Lengths are given in inches and cm; work to measurements rather than exact row counts unless you prefer to follow the sample row counts.

Cast-on Stitch Counts (multiple of 3+2)

• Back: Newborn 43 sts; 3–6m 48 sts; 6–12m 53 sts; 12–18m 56 sts.
• Each Front (body portion): Newborn 21 sts; 3–6m 24 sts; 6–12m 26 sts; 12–18m 28 sts. To each front add 6 sts for the garter/button band (3 sts at the button band edge plus 3 sts at the neck edge to make a neat border), so cast on fronts as: Newborn 27, 3–6m 30, 6–12m 32, 12–18m 34.
• Sleeves (cuff cast-on): Newborn 32 sts; 3–6m 36 sts; 6–12m 40 sts; 12–18m 44 sts.

Back

1. Using smaller needles (US 6 / 4.0 mm) cast on back sts (see Cast-on counts). Work 1” / 2.5 cm in 1x1 rib (K1, P1) or garter edge if you prefer.
2. Change to US 7 / 4.5 mm. Work Waffle Stitch (rows 1–4) maintaining pattern and keeping 1 slipped selvage st at each edge for neat seams: slip first st purlwise, work waffle pattern across to last st, knit last st.
3. Work until back measures: Newborn 9” / 23 cm; 3–6m 10” / 25.5 cm; 6–12m 11” / 28 cm; 12–18m 12” / 30.5 cm, end after a WS row.
4. Bind off all stitches loosely. Block gently if desired to measurements.

Left and Right Fronts (make 2)

1. Using smaller needles cast on front sts (including +6 for bands): Right front or left front as preferred; the right front will have buttonholes, left front the buttons.
2. Work 1” / 2.5 cm in 1x1 rib for the band area using the smaller needles. The 6 extra stitches at the band edge are worked in garter stitch: On RS knit across those 6; on WS purl across all but maintain the garter edge by knitting those 6 on every RS and WS (or knit them every row to keep ridged band). This yields a stable button band.
3. Change to US 7 / 4.5 mm and work Waffle Stitch across the body sts only; keep the 6 edge band stitches in garter for the band edge throughout.
4. Work until front measures same length as back to shoulder (see back), ending with a WS row. Bind off loosely.
5. Buttonholes (on right front): Work the buttonholes into the garter-band edge as you go or after finishing by cutting slits and reinforcing. To place 4 small horizontal buttonholes: Start the band so buttonholes are roughly 1” apart, centered vertically on the band area. To make a horizontal buttonhole while working garter band: on a RS row, knit to position, yo, k2tog (or bind off 2 and cast on 2 on the next row) for a neat buttonhole. Space them so first button is about 1” from collar edge and last about 1” from hem.

Sleeves (make 2)

1. Cast on cuff sts on smaller needles (see counts). Work 1” / 2.5 cm in 1x1 rib.
2. Change to US 7 / 4.5 mm and begin Waffle Stitch. Work increasing rounds/rows evenly to shape until sleeve circumference at underarm matches body armhole opening roughly. A simple increase schedule: increase 2 sts (kfb or M1) evenly every 1.5” / 4 cm until you reach approximately: Newborn 42 sts; 3–6m 48 sts; 6–12m 52 sts; 12–18m 56 sts. (If you reach these before the targeted sleeve length, stop increasing.)
3. Work until sleeve length from cuff to underarm measures: Newborn 6” / 15 cm; 3–6m 7” / 18 cm; 6–12m 8” / 20.5 cm; 12–18m 8.5” / 21.5 cm, end after a WS row.
4. Bind off all stitches loosely. Block gently.

Finishing and Assembly

1. Block all pieces to measurements if you prefer; waffle stitch relaxes and evens with blocking.
2. Lay body flat, right sides together. Pin and sew shoulder seams using mattress stitch for an invisible join.
3. Set sleeves into armholes: pin the sleeve midpoint to the shoulder seam and ease sleeve head to fit the armhole opening; sew with mattress or backstitch. Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
4. Neck finishing: With right side facing and smaller circular needle, pick up stitches evenly around the neck edge (including stitches along the fronts) and work 6–10 rows of garter or 1x1 rib to form the collar; bind off loosely. Alternatively, pick up a narrow band and work 6 rows of garter for a simple collar.
5. Button band cleanup: If you did not make buttonholes while knitting the right front, make neat horizontal buttonholes now by cutting small slits and reinforcing with sewn buttonhole bars or knitting a small facing and sewing it behind the slit.
6. Sew on buttons to match buttonholes. Weave in all ends securely.

Tips & Variations

• For a softer, stretchier edge, use I-cord for the neckband instead of garter. Pick up neck stitches and work an I-cord for a neat rounded finish.
• Change needles if your waffle fabric comes out too stiff or too loose. Waffle texture is denser than stockinette.
• To make this pattern longer or shorter, add/subtract full repeats of the 4-row waffle repeat, checking gauge and stitch multiple (3+2).

Troubleshooting

• If waffle blocks look uneven at edges, add 1 slipped selvage stitch at each edge and slip purlwise on every row to create a tidy seam allowance.
• If your cardigan sits too tight across chest, check gauge; a change of one needle size will significantly alter the finished size.

Contact & Credits

Pattern created for personal use and gifting. For support or pattern questions contact: team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk for more patterns and share your makes with #purljam on social media.

Created by purlJam with the help of magic AI dust. Shop Verde for patterns and yarn.

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