Womens Size 7 Sock (Cuff-down)

These are a classic, comfortable cuff-down sock worked in fingering-weight yarn with a slip-stitch reinforced heel flap and a classic gusset. Finished foot length: 9.25" (23.5 cm). Fit: Women’s US 7 (adjustable). Suggested ease: snug-fitting to true-to-foot circumference.

Materials

Yarn: Fingering-weight sock yarn, superwash merino or blend preferred. Amount: 100 g (3.5 oz) / approx. 400 yards (366 m). One 100 g skein is usually sufficient; for very large feet or deep socks you may need up to 450 yd (411 m).
Needles (choose method: double-pointed needles (DPNs), two circulars, or one long circular for magic-loop):

Suggested: US 1.5 (UK 12, 2.5 mm) for fabric. Alternate: US 1 (UK 13, 2.25 mm / 2.25 mm) for a firmer fabric or US 2 (UK 11, 2.75 mm / 2.75 mm) for a slightly looser fabric.

Tapestry needle for grafting (Kitchener) and weaving in ends
Stitch marker (optional)
Waste yarn or scrap for placing heel stitches (optional)

Gauge

32 sts = 4" (10 cm) and 40 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette (knitting in the round) on US 1.5 (2.5 mm). This gives ~8 sts per inch. Adjust needle size to obtain gauge if you want the same fit.

Finished Measurements

Foot length (finished): 9.25" (23.5 cm)
Circumference (unstretched): ~8" (20.5 cm) (stretchy to fit around 8.5–9.5" foot circumference)
Leg length (from back of heel to cuff): 6" (15 cm) recommended; customize as desired

Abbreviations (US)

k: knit
p: purl
st(s): stitch(es)

k2tog: knit two together - right-leaning decrease

wyif: with yarn in front

wyib: with yarn in back

rnd: round

CO: cast on

RS: right side

WS: wrong side

PM: place marker

Stitch Counts & Setup

Cast on 64 sts. This pattern is written for 64 sts; to adjust for a wider/narrower foot, add or subtract 4-stitch multiples (maintain pattern ratios).

Pattern Notes

Work in the round. Distribute stitches evenly if using DPNs or as desired for circulars. Measurements and row counts are given in inches and rounds where straightforward. Work to personal preferred lengths where noted.

Pattern

Cuff

CO 64 sts. Join for working in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
Rib: *k2, p2* around for 2" (5 cm) (approx. 20 rounds given 10 rounds per inch). Adjust length for taller/shorter cuff.

Leg

Switch to stockinette (knit every round). Work until leg measures 6" (15 cm) from the top of the cuff, or desired length measured to the back of the heel.

Heel Flap (Slip-stitch reinforced)

Work over next 32 sts (half of the sts). This is the heel flap; remaining 32 sts are the instep and will be left on hold on the needles.

Row 1 (RS): *sl1 wyif, k1* across 32 sts.
Row 2 (WS): sl1 wyif, purl across 32 sts.
Repeat these two rows until the heel flap measures approx. 2.25" (5.5 cm) (about 22 rows), or until you have worked a number of rows roughly equal to the number of stitches in the heel flap for good reinforcement. End on WS.

Turn Heel (short-row style)

We will turn the heel with short rows, creating a cup shape.

Row 1 (RS): Work across the heel flap stitches as follows: knit 18 sts, k2tog, k1, turn. (You are working across the heel flap only.)
Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, purl 7, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Slip 1, knit across to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Slip 1, purl across to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn.

Continue in this manner, working one more stitch before the decreases on each turn, until all heel flap sts have been incorporated and you have 18 live heel stitches (this creates a neat heel cup). If you are unsure, work until there are approx. 18-20 stitches left on the heel needle and the heel cup feels shaped to your foot. Finish on WS.

Pick Up For Gusset

Arrange stitches and pick up stitches to resume working in the round.

Place the 18-20 live heel stitches on one needle (this will be the sole/heel center).
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the first side of the heel flap (pick up in the horizontal bars between slipped stitches). Place next 32 sts (instep) on the next needle and work them as established (if you were in rib at the cuff, continue the rib pattern across instep). Pick up 16 sts along the second side of the heel flap. You should now have approximately 82-84 sts total (numbers vary slightly depending on exact heel-turn counts). The goal is to reduce back to the original 64 sts with gusset decreases.

Gusset Decreases

Start gusset shaping to return to the original stitch count and shape the instep to the foot.

Round 1: On sole needle (needle containing heel stitches): knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On instep: knit or work pattern across all instep sts. On second sole-side needle: k1, ssk, knit to end of round.
Round 2: Knit all sts (or continue instep pattern).
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until you have decreased to 64 sts (i.e., when the number of sts on the sole needles combined plus instep equals original cast-on). Typically you will decrease 1 st each side every 2 rounds until gusset stitches have been decreased away (this often takes 8-10 decrease rounds for this setup). When you reach 64 sts, place markers if desired to mark heel/instep boundaries.

Foot

Work even in the round until foot (measured from back of heel) measures 1.25" (3 cm) less than desired final length (1.25" reserve for toe shaping). For a finished foot length of 9.25" (23.5 cm), work until foot measures 8" (20.5 cm) from back of heel.

Toe (Classic decrease & graft)

We will use a standard toe decrease, finishing with Kitchener graft.

Round 1: (Needle 1) knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (Needle 2) k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (Needle 3) k1, ssk, knit to end. (Adjust needles to your work style.)
Round 2: Knit all sts.
Repeat these two rounds until 16 sts remain total (divide evenly 4/4/4/4 or 8/8 depending on needle setup).
When 16 sts remain, change to two needles (8 sts per needle) for grafting or leave on DPNs. If you prefer, you can continue decreasing to 8 sts and graft 8 sts to 8 sts; many prefer grafting 8+8.
Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Graft the remaining sts using Kitchener stitch to close the toe.

Finishing

Weave in ends securely on the inside of the sock.
Block gently if desired, shaping the toe and heel. Superwash yarns often do not need extensive blocking—a gentle steam or light wet block is sufficient.

Customization & Sizing Notes

To make larger or smaller sizes change cast-on in multiples of 4 sts and adjust gauge/needles as necessary.
To make the leg taller: add rounds before beginning the heel flap.
To lengthen the foot: work more rounds before beginning the toe decreases, measuring from back of heel to desired toe.
For a firmer heel: use a smaller needle on the heel flap (one needle size smaller) and/or work a thicker slip-stitch pattern.

Care

Machine wash on gentle or hand wash recommended for hand-dyed/specialty fibers. Lay flat to dry to preserve shape and elasticity. If yarn is superwash, it is often safe to machine-wash on gentle but heat from dryer can felt or distort.

Troubleshooting & Tips

If your sock fits too tight: move up one needle size and re-check gauge.
If too loose: move down one needle size and re-check gauge.
When picking up stitches along heel flap, pick up into the bar between slipped stitches for a neater edge; if there’s a gap, pick up an extra stitch in the corner to avoid holes.
When decreasing the gusset, always work the instep pattern uninterrupted; decreases occur on sole/side junctions only.

Abbreviated Yardage & Needle Info

Yarn: 100 g (3.5 oz) / approx. 400 yd (366 m) fingering-weight
Needles: US 1.5 (UK 12, 2.5 mm) recommended; alternatives US 1 (UK 13, 2.25 mm) or US 2 (UK 11, 2.75 mm)

Contact & Notes

Pattern created for PurlJam by Verde. For support, contact team@verde.uk. Website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.

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