Worsted Beanie (Top-Down, Knit in the Round)

Design notes: a classic, unisex worsted-weight beanie worked in the round with a 2x2 folded cuff (option for non-folded brim). Constructed for six sizes from baby to large adult. Uses an even decrease system (works when cast-on stitch count is a multiple of 8) so crown shaping is easy to follow.

Finished measurements

• Baby (0–6 mo): circumference ~14.2 in / 36.1 cm — length 5.5 in / 14 cm
• Toddler (6–24 mo): circumference 16.0 in / 40.6 cm — length 6.5 in / 16.5 cm
• Child (3–10 yrs): circumference 17.8 in / 45.2 cm — length 7.0 in / 18 cm
• Teen / Small adult: circumference 19.6 in / 49.7 cm — length 8.0 in / 20.5 cm
• Adult: circumference 21.3 in / 54.2 cm — length 8.5 in / 21.5 cm
• Large adult: circumference 23.1 in / 58.7 cm — length 9.0 in / 23 cm

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rounds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette stitch, worked in the round (knit every round) using US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm needles. Always swatch in the stitch pattern and blocked the same way you will finish the hat.

Yarn

Worsted weight / Aran (Category 4). Fiber choice is up to you — wool or blends give great warmth and stitch definition; acrylic or superwash are easy-care options.

• Baby: ~75 yds / 69 m
• Toddler: ~90 yds / 82 m
• Child: ~100 yds / 91 m
• Teen/small adult: ~125 yds / 114 m
• Adult: ~150 yds / 137 m
• Large adult: ~175 yds / 160 m

Needles & sizes

Primary needles (for body): circular 16 in / 40 cm and set of double-pointed needles (DPNs) or magic loop method.

• Recommended (for gauge): US 8 — UK old size 6 — Metric 5.0 mm
• Optional for slouchier fabric / looser gauge: US 9 — UK old size 5 — Metric 5.5 mm
• Cuff can be worked on same needles; if you prefer a tighter cuff, drop to US 7 — UK old size 7 — Metric 4.5 mm for ribbing.

Notions

• 1 stitch marker (or 2 if you like)
• Waste yarn or safety pin for provisional CO (optional)
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• k = knit
• p = purl
• k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) — optional alternative to k2tog for a mirror decrease
• rnd = round
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• wyif = with yarn in front

Cast-on stitch counts

This pattern uses cast-on counts that are multiples of 8 to match the decrease system. Pick the size whose circumference you want or adjust by adding or subtracting 8 stitches.

• Baby: CO 64 sts
• Toddler: CO 72 sts
• Child: CO 80 sts
• Teen/Small adult: CO 88 sts
• Adult: CO 96 sts
• Large adult: CO 104 sts

Brim options (choose one)

1. Folded cuff (recommended): CO the stated number of sts using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or German twisted). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Work 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 2.5 in / 6.5 cm (baby 1.75 in / 4.5 cm) or desired cuff height. Fold the cuff up and continue with the body.
2. Non-folded elastic brim: CO and work 1x1 or 2x2 rib for 1.25–2 in / 3–5 cm and proceed to body without folding.

Body

After completing your brim and with the hat length measured from cast-on edge, work stockinette in the round (knit every round) until total length from cast-on edge to the base of the crown is:

• Baby: 5.5 in / 14 cm (including cuff)
• Toddler: 6.5 in / 16.5 cm
• Child: 7.0 in / 18 cm
• Teen: 8.0 in / 20.5 cm
• Adult: 8.5 in / 21.5 cm
• Large: 9.0 in / 23 cm

Stop when you are 3.5–4.0 in / 9–10 cm away from the top of the hat (this remaining distance will be used for crown decreases). For smaller sizes use 3.5 in crown depth; for larger sizes use 4.0 in.

Crown decreases (evenly spaced method — works for counts that are multiples of 8)

Overview / algorithm (one method that keeps decreases balanced):

1. Let S be your current stitch count (the cast-on number). Confirm S is a multiple of 8. Set rep = S / 8.
2. Each decrease round will consist of repeating: knit (rep - 2) stitches, then k2tog — repeated 8 times around. After that decrease round knit one plain round. After that plain round your new rep = rep - 1. Repeat the pair of rounds (decrease round, plain round) until the hat has 8–16 stitches left; then switch to more aggressive decreases (k1,k2tog pairs or k2tog every stitch) and finish by cutting yarn and pulling through remaining stitches.

Worked example for Adult (CO 96 sts, so rep = 12):

1. Round A (decrease round): *k10, k2tog* repeat 8 times — 8 decreases → 88 sts remain
2. Round B: k around
3. Round C: *k9, k2tog* repeat 8 times — 8 decreases → 80 sts
4. Round D: k around
5. Round E: *k8, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 72 sts
6. Round F: k around
7. Round G: *k7, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 64 sts
8. Round H: k around
9. Round I: *k6, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 56 sts
10. Round J: k around
11. Round K: *k5, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 48 sts
12. Round L: k around
13. Round M: *k4, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 40 sts
14. Round N: k around
15. Round O: *k3, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 32 sts
16. Round P: k around
17. Round Q: *k2, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 24 sts
18. Round R: k around
19. Round S: *k1, k2tog* repeat 8 times → 16 sts
20. Round T: *k2tog* repeat 8 times → 8 sts
21. Break yarn leaving a 6–8 in / 15–20 cm tail; thread tail through tapestry needle and pull through the remaining 8 sts. Pull tight and secure the tail on the inside of the hat. Weave in ends.

Notes: For smaller cast-on counts the same algorithm applies (rep = S/8, first decrease round = *k(rep-2), k2tog*). If at any point a step would require a fractional number of stitches in the repeat, re-check your cast-on for divisibility by 8 or decrease using a slightly adjusted spacing so decreases remain roughly even (you can move one knit stitch earlier or later to even the spacing).

Alternative crown (faster decreases)

If you want a quicker crown and are less concerned about perfectly even spacing, after reaching about 24–32 sts, work paired decrease rounds like:

1. Round: *k2tog* across
2. Round: knit
3. Round: *k2tog* across
4. Repeat until 8–10 sts remain, then draw through.

Finishing

1. Pull the working tail through remaining stitches and secure on the inside.
2. Weave in all ends neatly using a tapestry needle.
3. Block lightly if you wish: steam or wet block depending on fiber content. Gently shape the hat and let dry flat.

Tips & troubleshooting

• If your rib is too loose, try one needle size smaller for the cuff only.
• If your brim stretches out with wear, use a smaller needle for the first 1–2 inches of ribbing, then switch to the main needle for the body.
• To add a pompom, attach securely with a duplicate stitch or by sewing through the top with a long yarn tail and knotting several times on the inside.
• If you want earflaps or a brim extension, stop before the crown shaping and pick up stitches to work flaps or a turned brim following your preferred earflap pattern.

Variations

• Make it slouchy: go up one needle size (US 9 / 5.5 mm) and add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm to the hat body before beginning decreases.
• Add texture: substitute the stockinette body with seed stitch, cables, or a simple broken rib — remember to swatch and adjust stitch counts if your stitch pattern changes gauge.

Need help or questions? Visit https://purljam.verde.uk or email support: team@verde.uk — find us on socials: #purljam

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