A comprehensive library of knitting and crochet stitches and techniques. Browse step-by-step guides, video tutorials, and reference notes for 149 techniques across knitting and crochet.
Shape stuffed toys in continuous rounds with tight stitch tension and strategic increases/decreases.
The Back Bump (also known as the Back Hump) is the secret to a professional edge in crochet. While most beginners are taught to crochet into the "V" on the front of a chain, you can flip the chain over to work into the single horizontal strand on the reverse side to create an edge that matches the top of a row of stitches.
Work into back loop only, often used for ribbed texture effect.
Work a half-height post stitch around the back of the post.
Work around the post from back to front to back for recessed vertical texture.
A textured stitch pattern that mimics the look of a woven basket. Created by alternating groups of front post and back post treble crochet stitches across each row, then swapping their positions on the next set of rows. The result is a thick, structured fabric with a distinctive checkerboard of raised and recessed blocks. Popular for blankets, cushions, and scarves.
The Basketweave Stitch is a classic knitting pattern that uses a simple combination of knit and purl stitches to create a textured fabric resembling a woven wicker basket. It’s a favourite for its structural integrity and the fact that it doesn't curl at the edges.
A square motif technique that builds textured, puffy rounds from the centre outward. Each round creates raised ridges by working clusters of treble crochet stitches around the posts of stitches from the previous round, giving the fabric a distinctive three-dimensional, quilted appearance. The ridges radiate outward in a pinwheel pattern. Bavarian squares can be joined to create stunning blankets, cushions, and bags. Works up quickly with chunky yarn and produces a very warm, thick fabric.
A stretchier bind off than the standard technique to secure the final row so stitches do not unravel. Also known as cast off.
The process of shaping and setting a finished knitted or crocheted piece to its final dimensions. Blocking evens out stitches, opens up lace patterns, and ensures pieces match the measurements given in the pattern. The three main methods are wet blocking (soaking then pinning), spray blocking (misting then pinning), and steam blocking (using steam from an iron held above the fabric). Always check the yarn label for fibre content before choosing a method.
Raised puff of partial stitches worked in same stitch.
A raised, three-dimensional cluster of stitches that pops out from the surface of the fabric. Made by increasing multiple stitches into one stitch (typically 3–5 stitches), working several short rows on just those stitches, then decreasing back to one stitch. The extra fabric created by the increases and short rows forms a small ball or bobble. Used as an accent in Aran patterns, textured garments, and decorative borders.
Thick, reversible fabric using yarn overs and slipped stitches.
Pull up long loops on a large rod and work groups off the rod for airy lace.
Wrap yarn many times around hook before drawing through all wraps to form a coiled stitch.
Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold back, k2, k2 from cable needle.
Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold front, k2, k2 from cable needle.
Hold three stitches to the back, work three stitches, then work held stitches.
Hold three stitches to the front, work three stitches, then work held stitches.
The Cable Cast On is a close relative of the Knitted Cast On but produces a significantly firmer, more decorative edge. Instead of knitting into a stitch, you knit between two stitches, creating a beautiful braided look that resembles a cord or cable along the bottom of your work.
A technique that creates twisted, rope-like columns in crochet fabric, similar to knitted cables. Achieved by working front post stitches around stitches from rows below, crossing them over each other to create the cable twist. Unlike knitting cables which use a cable needle, crochet cables rely on the order in which post stitches are worked. Creates a thick, textured fabric ideal for hats, scarves, and cushion covers.
Cross stitches temporarily off needle tips to make small cables without a separate cable needle.
Work into the third loop of half-height stitches to create knit-like ridges.
Secure the final row so stitches do not unravel. UK patterns usually call this cast off.
Create initial stitches on needle. Long-tail method is the most versatile but there are other methods available with different properties - Knitted Cast On | Cable Cast On | Long Tail Cast On
A striking stitch pattern that creates fan-shaped waves across the fabric. Worked by grouping multiple treble crochet stitches together at the base (decreasing) and then working multiple stitches into a single point (increasing), creating a rhythmic series of peaks and valleys. When worked in two or more colours, the fans create a bold, retro-inspired pattern reminiscent of spinning wheels. Excellent for blankets, cushions, bags, and statement scarves.
Decrease two stitches while keeping a centered visual line.
Yarn over hook, pull through loop. Foundation for most crochet.
Work into the space created by previous chain(s) rather than into a stitch.
Group of partial stitches joined at top.
Build diagonal blocks from one corner to the opposite corner.
The Crab Stitch (also known as the Reverse Double Crochet) is a decorative edging stitch that creates a corded, rope-like border. It is unique because, unlike almost every other crochet stitch, it is worked from left to right (for right-handed crocheters).
The Crochet Around a Ring technique is used to encase a physical object—like a plastic, wooden, or metal ring—within your crochet stitches. This is the foundation for making dreamcatchers, teething rings, curtain loops, and sturdy handles for bags.
Build layered scale motifs on a mesh foundation using groups of tall stitches.
Work 2 stitches together to reduce width. E.g., dc2tog.
Insert hook, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through both loops. Tight, dense fabric.
Needles pointed at both ends for knitting in the round on small circumferences.
Yo twice, insert hook, yo, pull up loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) 3 times.
Embroider knit-shaped stitches over finished fabric to add motifs or correct colorwork.
A variation of double crochet that adds one extra chain step in the middle of the stitch, creating a slightly taller stitch that sits between a double crochet and a half treble in height. Insert the hook, yarn over, pull through (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through one loop only (still two loops), yarn over, pull through both loops. Produces a smoother, less dense fabric with a lovely drape, reducing the gaps that can appear with taller stitches.
Traditional stranded colorwork using repeating motifs, usually with two colors per round.
Cut yarn and pull tail through the final loop to secure your crochet work.
Grid pattern using trebles and chains to create mesh designs.
Create a foundation chain and first UK double crochet in one pass.
Create a foundation chain and first half-height stitch in one pass.
Create a foundation chain and first tall stitch in one pass.
Work into front loop only for ribbed texture effect.
Work a half-height post stitch around the front of the post.
Work around the post from front to back to front for raised vertical texture.
All rows knit (or purl). Creates bumpy, reversible fabric that doesn't curl.
Short-row method that creates and later resolves double stitches.
Group of three same-height stitches, typically worked into chain spaces in granny-style fabric.
The most iconic crochet motif. A granny square is worked in the round from the centre outward, typically using clusters of treble crochet stitches separated by chain spaces. Squares can be made in one colour or multiple colours, and are joined together to create blankets, bags, cardigans, and more. The basic granny square is one of the first motifs most crocheters learn.
The Granny Stitch is a simple pattern of "clusters" that creates a classic, vintage look. While most famous for the "Granny Square," this stitch can be worked in flat rows, triangles, or even hexagons.
The V-Stitch Decrease is a clever 2 row shaping method that swaps a standard 3-double crochet cluster for a 2-stitch "V" to gradually narrow the fabric. It reduces the bulk of the fabric ready for the cluster decrease on the next row.
The Granny Stitch Edge Decrease is a shaping technique used to reduce the number of clusters in a row by skipping stitches at the edge. This allows you to create triangles, chevrons, or tapered garments. By intentionally omitting clusters at the margins, you turn a standard rectangle into a diagonal or sloped shape.
The TR2TOG (Treble Crochet 2 Together) Decrease is a shaping technique used to merge two separate clusters into one by working the second stitch over 2 spaces. By spanning the gap between clusters with a tall, single stitch, you reduce the overall stitch count while maintaining the height of the row.
Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up loop, yo, pull through all 3 loops.
Create a narrow knitted tube by knitting a few stitches and sliding them back repeatedly.
Finish an edge with a built-in decorative i-cord.
Work 2 or more stitches into the same stitch to add width.
Work blocks of color with separate yarn bobbins, twisting yarns at color joins.
Decrease by working the front loops of two stitches to reduce bulk. Mostly used in Amigurumi.
The Invisible Finish (also called the "Invisible Join" or a "Seamless Finish") is a finishing technique used to close the gap when binding off a project worked in the round. It mimics the look of a knit stitch, seamlessly connecting the last bound-off stitch to the very first one.
A short row technique that uses small stitch markers or safety pins placed on the working yarn at the turning point instead of wrapping the stitch. When you reach the marked stitch on the return pass, you work it together with the marker loop to close the gap. Produces a very clean result with virtually no visible hole, and works identically on knit and purl sides. Widely regarded as the neatest of the three main short row methods (alongside wrap and turn and German short rows).
A very stretchy cast off method invented by Jeny Staiman, ideal for edges that need to stretch over a wider area — sock cuffs, hat brims, lace edgings, and necklines. Before each stitch is passed over, a yarn over is added (reverse yarn over before knit stitches, standard yarn over before purl stitches). This creates extra yarn in each cast off stitch, giving significantly more stretch than a standard cast off. Quick to learn and widely used.
Join cast-on stitches into a circle without twisting before beginning round knitting. Knitting in the round allows you to create a seamless tube of fabric. Instead of flipping your work back and forth like you do with flat knitting, you just keep going in one continuous spiral.
Close a round, usually with a slip stitch, before beginning the next round.
Invisible grafting technique to join two pieces seamlessly.
Insert needle into 2 stitches knitwise and knit together as one. Right-leaning decrease.
Knit three stitches together to decrease two stitches.
Knit into front then back of same stitch to increase by one.
Insert needle front to back, wrap yarn, pull through. The fundamental stitch.
Knit a stitch through the back loop to produce a twisted knit stitch.
The Knitted Cast On is a versatile and intuitive method for starting a project. It is essentially "knitting a new stitch into an existing one" to build your foundation row. Because it uses the same muscle memory as the knit stitch, it is often the first method taught to beginners.
An openwork technique that creates decorative holes and patterns in knitted fabric. The holes are formed by yarn overs (creating a new stitch and a hole) paired with decreases (to maintain stitch count). The interplay between yarn overs and different decrease types (k2tog, ssk, cdd, etc.) creates everything from simple eyelets to complex allover lace patterns. Lace knitting uses thinner yarn and larger needles than the yarn weight would normally call for, and blocking is essential to open up the pattern. A distinction is sometimes made between 'lace knitting' (pattern rows alternated with plain rows) and 'knitted lace' (patterning on every row).
Alternate UK double and treble stitches for a lightly textured, balanced fabric.
A modification of standard treble crochet that eliminates the gaps between stitches by linking each stitch to the one before it. Instead of yarning over to start, you insert the hook into the horizontal bar at the middle of the previous stitch and pull up a loop, then complete the stitch as normal. Creates a denser, more structured fabric without holes, while keeping the same height as regular treble crochet. Ideal for garments, bags, and any project where you want the drape of taller stitches without the openness.
The most commonly used cast on method in knitting. Creates a neat, elastic edge that works well for most projects. Uses both the working yarn and a tail end simultaneously, with the thumb and index finger controlling each strand. The tail needs to be estimated before starting — roughly three times the width of the piece to be cast on. Also known as the slingshot or Continental cast on.
Use one long circular needle to knit small circumferences by pulling a loop of cable.
Adjustable starting loop/ring for working in the round. Closes centre tightly. The magic loop, sometimes known as the magic ring or magic circle, is a clever way to start your crochet projects that begin from the centre like amigurumi, hats, and mandalas.
Make a new stitch by picking up the bar between stitches and knitting it twisted.
Pick up bar front to back, knit through back loop. The M1L (Make One Left) increase is a method used to create a new stitch from the bar between stitches. This increases the total number of stitches on your needle while also forming a left-leaning slant in the fabric.
Pick up the bar with left orientation and purl through the back loop.
Create a new stitch from the strand between stitches and work it as a purl increase.
Pick up bar back to front, knit through front loop. The M1R (Make One Right) increase is a common method used in knitting to create a new stitch and increase the total number of stitches on your needle while forming a right-leaning slant in the fabric. This increase is often paired with the M1L increase to balance shaping in knitting projects.
Pick up the bar with right orientation and purl through the front loop.
Seam knitted pieces invisibly from the right side using edge bars.
Use planned color placement and dropped stitches to create geometric color patterns.
A slip-stitch colourwork technique where only one colour is used per row, but geometric patterns are created by selectively slipping stitches from the previous row. Unlike Fair Isle or intarsia, you never carry two colours across a row. Each colour is usually worked for two rows before switching. Creates bold, graphic patterns without the complexity of stranded knitting. Popularised by Barbara Walker.
Checkerboard pattern of knit/purl. Creates textured, flat fabric.
A simple, textured crochet stitch created by alternating double crochet stitches and chain stitches, with each double crochet worked into the chain space of the row below. Produces a firm, woven-look fabric with a lovely drape and subtle texture. One of the easiest stitch patterns beyond the basics — if you can chain and double crochet, you can work moss stitch. Also called granite stitch or linen stitch. Excellent for scarves, blankets, dishcloths, and bags.
A traditional Estonian lace technique that creates tiny, bead-like bobbles sitting on the surface of the fabric. Unlike standard bobbles, nupps are worked over two rows: on the right side, multiple yarn overs and knit stitches (typically 5–7 loops) are made into a single stitch; on the wrong side, all those loops are purled together in one motion. The result is a delicate, rounded bump much smaller and neater than a knitted bobble. Requires a sharp-tipped needle and loose tension on the set-up row. A hallmark of Estonian lace shawls.
Layered stitches creating intricate raised designs.
Pass previously slipped stitch over stitch just worked and off needle.
Draw new stitches through an edge or cast-on row to continue knitting from that edge.
Make a tiny decorative loop, usually chain 3 then slip stitch to base.
A small decorative point or loop that creates a scalloped edge on knitted fabric. Most commonly used in picot cast on (cast on stitches, cast off a few, place remaining stitch back on needle, repeat) and picot cast off (cast off stitches, chain a few, slip stitch back, repeat). Can also be worked as a picot hem by folding the fabric at a row of yarn over eyelets and stitching it down. Creates a dainty, feminine finish perfect for baby garments, lace edges, and decorative borders.
Place a stitch marker on needle to track pattern repeats or positions.
Group of complete stitches that pop out from fabric.
Temporary cast on for later grafting or working in opposite direction.
Pull up multiple loops from one stitch and complete together for a soft textured puff.
Purl 2 stitches together as one.
Increase by purling into the front and then the back of the same stitch.
Insert needle back to front, wrap yarn, pull through.
Purl a stitch through the back loop to create a twisted purl stitch.
Purl side displayed as right side for textured effect.
Alternating knit and purl in same row (1x1 or 2x2). Creates stretchy fabric for edges.
A clever technique where a hidden image or pattern is only visible when the fabric is viewed from an angle. Also called illusion knitting. Worked in two-row stripes of alternating colours using only knit and purl stitches — no colourwork skills needed. The image is created by strategically placing purl bumps in one colour against a stocking stitch background in the other. When viewed head-on the fabric looks like simple stripes; tilt it and the picture appears. Invented by Steve Plummer and popularised by Woolly Thoughts.
Multiple stitches worked into same stitch/space creating fan shape.
Move one stitch from left needle to right needle without working it.
Slip one stitch, knit the next, then pass the slipped stitch over for a left-leaning decrease.
Centered double decrease made by slipping two, knitting one, then passing both slipped stitches over.
Create the adjustable starting knot on the hook before chaining.
Move the marker from one needle to the other without knitting or purling it.
Slip first stitch knitwise, second stitch purlwise. Knit together through back loop. A commonly used stitch, the SSK is a left leaning decrease often paired with K2TOG. There are 2 way to work the SSK so take a look below and try the one that works best for you.
Slip 1 stitch purlwise then the next knitwise. Return to left needle, purl together through back loops.
Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook. For joining.
An openwork crochet stitch that creates a delicate, lace-like mesh of interlocking loops. Each unit consists of an elongated chain loop locked in place with a double crochet worked into the back strand of the loop. These locked loops are then joined together to form a lightweight, airy fabric. The size of the mesh is controlled by how long you pull each loop. Beautiful for shawls, wraps, scarves, and summer garments. Also known as the lover's knot.
Insert the hook into a lower row to create elongated decorative stitches.
A stacked stitch is a technique used to start a new row without using traditional turning chains. Instead of chaining two or three to gain height, you "stack" double crochets directly on top of each other.
The Standing Stitch is a technique used to join new yarn to a project. Unlike the traditional method of joining with a slip stitch and a turning chain, a standing stitch allows you to start a new row or round with a complete, independent stitch already on your hook.
A decorative crochet stitch that creates a fabric covered in small star or daisy shapes. Each star is formed by pulling up loops through multiple points, then joining them together at the top. The resulting texture is dense, warm, and visually striking. Works well for hats, cowls, bags, and blankets. Sometimes called the daisy stitch or marguerite stitch.
Reinforce and cut knitted fabric to create openings for armholes or cardigans.
Alternate knit and purl rows. Smooth on right side (RS), bumpy on wrong side (WS).
Carry unused yarn behind stitches while working multiple colors in a row or round.
Add decorative lines by slip stitching on top of finished fabric.
Carry color strands inside stitches to create dense colorwork motifs.
A small test piece knitted or crocheted before starting a project to check that your tension matches the pattern requirements. Typically worked over at least 15cm (6in) square in the stitch pattern specified. Measure the number of stitches and rows per 10cm (4in) and compare to the pattern. If you have too many stitches, try a larger needle; too few, try a smaller needle. Essential for any project where size matters — garments, hats, socks.
Join two sets of live stitches while casting off with a third needle.
Work stitch through back loop to twist it for texture.
Yo, insert hook, yo, pull up loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice.
Yarn over three times, insert hook, then pull through two loops four times.
The matching partner to tubular cast on. Creates an invisible, stretchy edge at the end of a ribbed section that mirrors the tubular cast on perfectly. Worked by separating knit and purl stitches onto two needles, then grafting them together using Kitchener stitch (or a tapestry needle). The result is a seamless, rounded edge with excellent stretch, ideal for neckbands, cuffs, and hems.
An invisible, stretchy cast on that creates a folded, rounded edge perfect for 1x1 or 2x2 rib. The edge appears to have no cast on row at all — the rib simply emerges from a smooth, tubular fold. Worked by casting on with waste yarn (or using a provisional method), knitting a few rows of tubular set-up, then transitioning into the rib pattern. Takes more time than a standard cast on but gives a professional, polished finish.
Forward and return passes creating woven-like fabric. Also called Afghan crochet.
Insert hook between front and back vertical bars for a knit-like Tunisian texture.
Bring yarn to front before inserting hook to create a purl-like Tunisian texture.
Insert hook under front vertical bar on forward pass for the fundamental Tunisian stitch.
Chain(s) at row start to match stitch height. E.g., ch-1 for dc, ch-3 for tr.
A variation of standard rib stitch where the knit stitches (and sometimes the purl stitches) are worked through the back loop. This twists the stitch, creating a tighter, more defined rib column that sits more upright. Produces a firmer, less stretchy fabric than regular rib, often used for sock cuffs, hat brims, and neckbands where a snug fit is needed.
Form a V with stitch, chain, stitch in the same stitch or space.
A textured crochet stitch that creates a thick, waffle-like fabric with a grid of raised squares. Worked using a combination of front post and back post treble crochet stitches alternated with treble crochet stitches. Creates excellent drape and warmth, making it ideal for blankets, dishcloths, and scarves.
Hide and secure yarn tails through nearby stitches using a yarn needle.
Bring yarn to back before working stitch.
Bring yarn to front before working stitch.
Working into a Starting Chain (or Foundation Chain) is the very first step of most crochet projects. While it seems simple, where you insert your hook into those tiny "V" shapes determines the stretch, look, and professional finish of your bottom edge.
Short row technique: wrap yarn around stitch, turn work mid-row for 3D shaping.
Wrap yarn around needle to create new stitch and decorative hole.