12 Mini Dinosaur Amigurumi Pattern Collection
Make a set of 12 different mini dinosaurs—each ~5–7” (13–18 cm) tall depending on stuffing and hook tension. This collection uses simple amigurumi techniques with small shape variations (plates, crests, horns, tails, wings) to create: T-Rex, Triceratops, Stegosaurus, Velociraptor, Brachiosaurus, Ankylosaurus, Spinosaurus, Parasaurolophus, Dilophosaurus, Pterodactyl (pterosaur winged friend), Allosaurus and Compsognathus.
Designer notes
Worked mostly in continuous rounds (spiral) with single crochet (US) / double crochet (UK). Assemble by sewing pieces together; details like plates, horns and crests are crocheted separately and sewn on. Use safety eyes for toys for aged 3+ or embroider eyes for younger children.
Materials
- Yarn: Worsted weight / Aran (#4). Approximate per dinosaur: small species (Compsognathus, Dilophosaurus): 20–30 g; medium: 35–55 g; large (Brachiosaurus, Spinosaurus, T-Rex): 60 g. Total for full set: ~600 g. Example yardage (per dino average 50 g): 110 yards (100 m) per 50 g. Full set yardage approx 1320 yards (1200 m). (Imperial & Metric shown.)
- Hook (crochet) recommended: US E/4 3.5 mm (approx. UK old size 9) for standard tension. Optional tighter fabric: US F/5 3.75 mm (approx. UK old 8) or smaller 3.0 mm (approx. US C/2) for very tight stitches.
- Knitting needles (if you prefer knit toy options): US 6 (4.0 mm) - provide equivalent UK (old) 8 and metric 4.0 mm. (Equivalents given as approximate conversions.)
- Safety eyes: 6 mm–8 mm; or embroidered eyes.
- Fiberfill stuffing, tapestry needle, stitch markers, small amounts of contrasting yarn for spikes/plates/horns, scissors, optional black embroidery thread for mouth/nostrils.
Needle & Hook conversion (included as requested)
- Crochet hook (recommended): US E/4 = 3.5 mm — UK (old) approx. 9.
- Alternative crochet: US F/5 = 3.75 mm — UK (old) approx. 8; US C/2 = 2.75 mm — UK (old) approx. 11 (for firmer fabric).
- Knitting needle example: US 6 = 4.0 mm — UK (old) approx. 8.
Gauge
Not critical for amigurumi but tighter is better for stuffing. Recommended: 12 sc x 10 rounds = 2” (5 cm) using 3.5 mm hook and worsted weight yarn when lightly stuffed.
Abbreviations (US crochet terms)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- inc = 2 sc in next st
- dec = single crochet decrease (sc2tog)
- sl st = slip stitch
- BLO = back loop only, FLO = front loop only
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- MR = magic ring
Core pieces (used for most dinosaurs; make duplicates/variations per species)
Body (make 1)
Using chosen main color.
MR
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
R6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
R7–12: sc around (36) [lengthen or shorten for body length]
R13: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
R14: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
R15: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Leave tail of yarn for sewing. Stuff firmly before closing or attach head before final stuffing per model instructions.
Head (make 1)
MR
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
R5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
R6–11: sc around (30)
Place eyes between R7 and R8, spaced 6 sts apart (adjust for size).
R12: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
R13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
R14: (sc, dec) x6 (12)
Stuff firmly and close with decs to finish. Leave long tail for sewing to body.
Legs (make 4 or as needed)
MR
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3–6: sc around (12) [adjust length for long/short legs]
Stuff lightly, leave tail to sew.
Arms (make 2)
MR
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2–4: sc around (6)
Stuff slightly, leave tail.
Tail (make 1)
MR
R1: 6 sc (6)
R2: inc x6 (12)
R3: (sc, inc) x6 (18)
R4–6: sc around (18)
R7: (4 sc, dec) x3 (15)
R8: (3 sc, dec) x3 (12)
R9: sc around (12)
Taper by dec every other round as needed for point. Stuff and sew to body base.
Spikes/plates/crest/horns (make per specific dino)
These are worked flat or as small cones. See species notes below.
Finishing/Assembly
- Attach head to body securely with mattress stitch or whip stitch; weave in ends.
- Sew legs symmetrically so toy stands if desired (some species are made to sit).
- Sew tail to lower back; reinforce with extra thread if frequently handled.
- Embroider nostrils and mouth with backstitch; use contrasting yarn for teeth if desired (T-Rex teeth: small white triangles sewn in mouth seam).
- Block plates/crests flat with a little steam or spray if they need shaping, then let dry before sewing.
Species variations (instructions specific to each dinosaur)
1) T-Rex
- Scale: Large-ish. Use body rounds to R12 for length, add 2 extra rounds of sc for a heavier torso.
- Arms: Make two tiny arms (R1: 6 sc, R2: dec, R3: sc; leave tail) and position high on body.
- Teeth: Crochet 6 small cones: MR, R1: 3 sc, R2: inc each (6), R3: sc; flatten and sew into jaw.
- Tail: Stiff stout tail with R3–6 at 18 sts then taper fast.
2) Triceratops
- Frill: Make 1 frill by chaining 20, attach to neck seam; along chain, work 3 rows of sc into chain, then a final ruffled row: (2 sc, inc) across to form frill curve. Sew around neck.
- Horns: Make 3 small cones (2 above eyes, 1 on nose): MR, R1: 6 sc, R2: (sc, inc) x2 (8), R3: sc; stuff and sew.
3) Stegosaurus
- Plates: Make 6–8 triangular plates: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across; row 2: ch1, turn, sc across increasing at center to create triangle. Alternatively: make small V-shaped motifs: MR, 6 sc, flatten to triangle.
- Sew plates alternating down back; larger plates for center, smaller toward tail.
4) Velociraptor
- Slimmer body: work only to R10 before starting decreases to create a lean torso.
- Long legs: add 2–4 extra rounds to each leg; embroider claws with black yarn.
- Tail: make longer (add 3–5 extra sc rounds at 18 sts) to create balance.
5) Brachiosaurus
- Neck: Crochet a long tube: ch 4, join and sc in rounds for 12–18 rounds, stuffing lightly as you go. Taper slightly at top for head seam and sew to body before closing.
- Body: keep rounds to R12 for a rounder torso.
6) Ankylosaurus
- Armor: crochet small round scales by MR, 6 sc; flatten and sew across back overlapping. Make a club tail by stuffing extra and crocheting a larger bulb at tail end.
7) Spinosaurus
- Dorsal sail: make 1 large thin sail: ch 20; sc across the chain in rows, decreasing toward the top to form a diamond/sail shape; sew along center back from shoulders to tail base.
8) Parasaurolophus
- Crest: Crochet a curved tube: ch 20, join to work in rounds for 4–6 rounds, then shape with sl st decreases on one side to curve. Sew to back of head.
9) Dilophosaurus
- Head crests: Make two thin leaf-like crests: ch 6, sc along chain, increase in middle rows to fan. Sew on top of head behind eyes.
10) Pterodactyl (pterosaur)
- Wings: Make 2 wings flat: ch 12, sc back across chain; rows: ch1, turn, 11 sc; Row 2: dec at both ends each row to create tapered wing. Optionally add simple finger structure as small tubes sewn inside wing. Sew wings to sides of body and add tail vane if desired.
- Head/beak: Make a cone for beak: MR, 6 sc, inc round to 12 then taper; flatten and sew to front of head for a pointed beak.
11) Allosaurus
- Similar to T-Rex but leaner; use medium body length and medium tail. Add small ridge of tiny spikes made from short BLOB (chain 3, sl st back) sewn along neck/back.
12) Compsognathus
- Smallest: use smaller hook (2.75–3.0 mm) and less stuffing. Short body (stop at R10) and long thin tail; tiny twig-like legs and arms.
Spike/Plate Pattern (simple triangle)
Make as many as needed for species:
Row 1: ch 4, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc, sc (3 sts)
Row 2: ch1, turn, sc, inc, sc (4 sts)
Row 3: ch1, turn, sc, inc, inc, sc (6 sts)
Continue increasing one extra sc at center each row until desired width; fasten off and shape. For stiff plates, use tighter hook or add thin interfacing.
Color & texture ideas
- T-Rex: green body, lighter belly, white teeth, darker ridge stripe.
- Triceratops: gray or sandy, contrasting frill edge.
- Stegosaurus: olive body, plates in contrasting rust/amber.
- Brachiosaurus: pastel blues and greens for a friendly look.
- Spinosaurus: sandy body with bright sail (red/orange) for contrast.
- Pterodactyl: neutral tan with darker wing membranes.
Safety & care
- For children under 3, avoid safety eyes; embroider eyes and securely fasten all small parts.
- Hand wash gently and reshape while damp; air dry.
Tips & troubleshooting
- If stuffing shows through, use a smaller hook or tighter tension.
- To make toys poseable, insert pipe cleaners into tails/neck before final stuffing (ensure ends are well buried and secured).
- Keep stitch markers to track rounds since these are worked in spiral.
For more patterns and PDF layout options visit our website: https://purljam.verde.uk. Support: team@verde.uk. Socials: #purljam.
Have fun making your 12 mini dinosaurs! If you want printable PDFs or single-dinosaur expanded patterns with charts and step-by-step photos, contact us at team@verde.uk.