48\" Garter Stitch Waistcoat (48-inch finished chest)

Easy, modern garter-stitch waistcoat worked flat in three pieces: back + two identical fronts. Straightforward construction, no lace or cables — perfect for beginners who want a bold, textured wardrobe staple.

Finished measurements

• Chest (circumference): 48\" / 122 cm
• Length (shoulder to hem): 24\" / 61 cm (adjustable — see Notes)
• Back width: 20\" / 51 cm
• Each front width (at hem): 14\" / 36 cm

Yarn

Worsted/Aran weight yarn (Category 4 / UK Aran)

• Approximate amount: 1400–1700 yards (1280–1550 metres)
• Approximate weight: 650–800 grams (depending on yardage per skein)
• Suggested yarns: smooth worsted wool or wool blends for good stitch definition — DK will make a smaller, denser fabric, bulky will make a much thicker vest; adjust needles and gauge accordingly.

Needles

Work flat on straight needles or two circulars (for ease of holding large numbers of stitches).

• Main needles: US 8 / UK 6 / 5.0 mm
• Optional if you prefer a firmer fabric: US 7 / UK 7 / 4.5 mm

Notions

• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and seaming
• Measuring tape
• Blocking tools (optional: blocking mats and pins)

Gauge

Garter stitch: 18 sts = 4\" / 10 cm and 34 rows = 4\" / 10 cm (measured across garter ridges, after blocking). Always make a swatch and adjust needle size to match gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

• k = knit
• p = purl (not used much in garter-only pieces)
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• BO = bind off
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side
• inc = increase (make 1 or yarn-over alternative noted below)

Layout & stitch math (how the 48\" is made)

Gauge = 18 sts / 4\" = 4.5 sts per inch. For a 48\" chest we allocate 20\" back + 14\" + 14\" for the two fronts (20 + 14 + 14 = 48). That gives the following cast-on counts at stated gauge:

• Back: 20\" x 4.5 sts/in = 90 sts
• Each front: 14\" x 4.5 sts/in = 63 sts

Instructions

Back

1. Cast on 90 sts.
2. Work garter stitch (knit every row) until piece measures 16\" / 41 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a right-side row. (16\" is lower-body length; adjust for preferred overall length.)
3. Armhole: On next row, BO 4 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows to make the armhole openings (BO 4 at each armhole edge). You will now have 82 sts.
4. Continue in garter stitch without further shaping until armhole measures 8\" / 20 cm from the BO row (approximately 68 rows at stated gauge), ending with a right-side row.
5. Shoulder shaping (create shoulder stitches to seam later):
   1. RS: BO 20 sts at beginning of row (right shoulder). Work to end of row.
   2. WS: BO 20 sts at beginning of row (left shoulder). Work to end of row.
   3. You will have 42 sts remaining in the center (neck band). BO remaining 42 sts to finish the back.

Right Front (work left/right mirrored for the Left Front)

1. Cast on 63 sts.
2. Work garter stitch until piece measures 16\" / 41 cm from cast-on edge, ending with a right-side row.
3. Armhole: BO 4 sts at the armhole edge (for the right front the armhole edge is the left-hand edge as you hold the piece with RS facing you). Work the remainder of the row. You will now have 59 sts.
4. Continue garter stitch until armhole measures 8\" / 20 cm from the BO row (same number of rows as on the back).
5. Shoulder shaping (mirror of back shoulders):
   1. RS: BO 20 sts at beginning of row (this creates the outer shoulder edge).
   2. WS: work back across remaining stitches; DO NOT BO at the neck edge (this is the open front). Continue to BO remaining shoulder stitches on the left front when you work the Left Front piece so that the shoulders match for seaming. After RS BO 20 sts on the Right Front the remaining sts form the neck-edge and will be finished at the same row count as the back when the Left Front is completed.
6. Fasten off and set aside.

Left Front

1. Work as for the Right Front but mirrored: when shaping the armhole BO 4 sts at the armhole edge (for the left front this is the right-hand edge as you work), and for shoulder shaping BO 20 sts at the beginning of the WS row to match the back/Right Front shoulder.
2. When both fronts are complete the shoulder stitches (20 sts on each shoulder) on each front will align with the back 20-st shoulder sections.

Assembly

1. Block pieces lightly to measurements: flatten and pin to achieve chest width and even garter ridges. Garter softens and evens with blocking; do not over-stretch.
2. Seam shoulders: mattress stitch or preferred seaming method to join the 20-st shoulder sections of Back to the 20-st shoulder sections of each Front. There will be two shoulder seams (left and right).
3. Side seams: With RS facing, seam from the hem up to the armhole BO edge on each side. Leave the armhole opening unseamed.
   • If you prefer a looser side seam, seam only 10\" (25 cm) up from hem and leave the remainder open for a side vent look.

Optional Buttonband / Front Finish

Garter stitch automatically creates a neat, non-rolling edge. If you want a neater double-thickness band for buttonholes, pick up stitches along each front edge and knit a garter band:

1. With RS facing and a 5.0 mm needle pick up and knit 1 st for every garter ridge (approximately 2 stitches per inch of edge — pick up evenly), or pick up across the number of rows you have to match a neat width.
2. Work even in garter stitch until band measures about 1\" to 1.5\" / 2.5–4 cm; if you want a folded, stable band, make the band 1.5\" then fold and mattress-stitch in place using picked-up stitches as a facing.
3. For buttonholes: on the right front band (as worn) make evenly spaced horizontal buttonholes by binding off 2 sts and casting them on again on the next WS row (or use k2tog/yo for a reinforced hole). Make 4–5 buttons depending on preferred spacing.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
2. Block gently to final measurements, paying attention to shoulder seams and front edges. Pin to maintain straight edges.
3. Sew on buttons if using a buttonband, matching button placement to buttonholes.

Sizing & Adjustments

• To change chest size: increase/decrease cast-on proportionally. At gauge of 18 sts = 4\", that’s 4.5 sts per inch; multiply desired width in inches by 4.5 to get total stitches; then divide into back/front proportions (e.g., keep back slightly larger than each front or change to preference).
• To change length: adjust how many rows you work before armhole shaping and for armhole depth.
• Want a fitted waist? Use smaller needles for the body or add short rows for shaping; this pattern is designed for a straight, boxy shape.

Troubleshooting & Notes

• Garter shrinks/expands differently in width vs height; be mindful of row gauge when changing needles.
• If your swatch has fewer stitches per 4\" than pattern gauge, go down one needle size; if you have more, go up one size.
• If you prefer a cleaner shoulder, you can use 3-needle bind-off to join shoulders instead of seaming.

Care

Follow yarn label instructions. Most worsted wool vests can be hand-washed and laid flat to dry or machine washed on a wool cycle depending on fibre content.

Pattern by PurlJam — full support and pattern notes at https://purljam.verde.uk. For help email team@verde.uk. Share your makes with #purljam on socials.

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