Sweet Stripes Raglan Cardigan for a 4-Year-Old (Pink & Green)

Top-down, seamless raglan cardigan in alternating pink and green stripes. Worked in DK/light-worsted yarn with a cozy ribbed neck, picot-style buttonband and easy sleeve shaping. Finished measurements and exact stitch counts are provided so you can follow step-by-step.

Finished Measurements

• Chest (circumference): 24.5 in / 62 cm (comfortable fit for age ~4)
• Length (shoulder to hem): 13 in / 33 cm
• Sleeve length (from underarm): 10.5 in / 27 cm (can be lengthened)
• Upper arm circumference: 8.2 in / 21 cm

Yarn & Yardage

• Yarn weight: DK / light worsted
• Main color (MC, Pink): 225 yds / 206 m (approx)
• Contrast color (CC, Green): 125 yds / 114 m (approx)
• Total yardage: ~350 yds / 320 m
• Suggested fiber: soft washable wool, wool blend, or acrylic suitable for children

Needles (use sizes that give correct gauge)

• Circular needle 16"/40 cm: US 5 (UK 9 approx) / 3.75 mm — used for neck rib if you prefer a slightly firmer rib
• Circular needles 24"/60 cm OR 32"/80 cm (magic loop): US 6 (UK 8 approx) / 4.0 mm — main needle for yoke/body
• Optional set of double-pointed needles (dpns) in US 6 / 4.0 mm or continue with magic loop for sleeves
• Smaller circular or dpns for cuffs if you want a firmer rib: US 5 / 3.75 mm / 3.75 mm

Note on UK (old) equivalence: UK old numbers vary by chart; the metric (mm) and US size are the most reliable cross-reference.

Gauge

22 sts and 28 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on 4.0 mm (US 6) needles after blocking. Measure gauge in the color/needle combination you intend to use. Adjust needle sizes to match gauge.

Notions

• 5 child-size buttons (12-15 mm / 1/2" to 5/8")
• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle, waste yarn or stitch holders
• Measuring tape, scissors

Abbreviations

• CO = cast on
• K = knit; P = purl; K2tog = knit 2 together; SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• M1L = make 1 left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit into back loop)
• M1R = make 1 right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit into front loop)
• RS = right side; WS = wrong side; PM = place marker; SM = slip marker
• st(s) = stitch(es); rnd = round; rep = repeat; tog = together; BO = bind off

Notes

• This pattern is written for a 4-year-old only. If you want to change size, change final stitch counts and number of raglan increase sets.
• I use a top-down raglan approach: work the yoke increases, then place sleeve sts on holders and continue the body in the round. Return to sleeves to work them in the round.
• Stripe setup in this pattern: 4 rounds MC (pink), 4 rounds CC (green), repeat. You can change stripe width freely; maintain whole-round stripes so color changes happen at the beginning of a round.
• Use a stretchy cast-on (long-tail) for comfort at the neck.

Cast On & Neck Rib

Cast on 68 sts using smaller needle (US 5 / 3.75 mm). Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM for beginning of round.

Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 10 rounds (about 1" / 2.5 cm) or desired neck depth. Switch to main needle (US 6 / 4.0 mm).

Set Up for Raglan Yoke

After rib, work one plain round in MC to smooth the neck. Then place four markers to divide the work into 4 equal sections as follows:

Arrange markers so sections read: Front 1 / Sleeve 1 / Back / Sleeve 2. Each section initially contains 17 sts (68 / 4 = 17).

Raglan Increase Rounds (yoke)

We will work paired rounds: an increase round (where you increase at each raglan seam) followed by a plain round. Repeat this pair 14 times.

Increase round (RS): *K to 1 st before marker, M1R, K1, SM, K1, M1L*; repeat from * to * for each marker; after the last marker K to end of round.
Plain round: Knit all stitches (K around).

Repeat the increase round + plain round pair 14 times total. Each pair increases 8 sts (2 sts at each of the 4 raglan seams). After 14 pairs (28 rounds) you will have added 112 sts to the original 68, for a total of 180 sts.

Stitch counts after yoke (end of increases): Each of the 4 sections will contain 45 sts (17 + 2*14 = 45). Total = 180 sts. Body (front1 + back + front2) = 45*3 = 135 sts. Each sleeve = 45 sts.

Separate Sleeves

Next round: Work across Front 1 sts (45), place next 45 sts (Sleeve 1) on waste yarn or a holder, CO or slip 3 sts or K3 (optional underarm bridge) for underarm and then work across Back sts (45), place next 45 sts (Sleeve 2) on holder, K3 to bridge the underarm, and join to work in the round across body only. After removing sleeve sts, you should have body = 135 sts. If you prefer neater underarm finishing, you can CO 3 sts at each underarm when you join for the body instead of knitting the bridge; pattern uses K3 bridge for a smooth join.

Body

Join in MC and begin body rounds in stockinette (K every round). Work in 4-round stripe pattern: 4 rounds MC (pink), 4 rounds CC (green), repeat until body measures 9.5 in / 24 cm from underarm (or desired length). End after a full stripe repeat so hem stripes match front panels.

Hem Ribbing + Picot Edge

Switch to smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm). Work 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 1.25 in / 3 cm. For a picot edge look: BO in pattern using a stretchy bind off (k2, *yo, k2tog, k2; rep from * until end) OR use a tubular bind-off if you prefer. If using buttonband instead of full picot hem, proceed to buttonband instructions (next).

Buttonband (Front Edges)

We will pick up stitches and knit the buttonbands after the body is finished so both front bands match exactly.

1. With smaller circular needle (US 5 / 3.75 mm), starting at hem on right front edge, pick up and knit 1 stitch for every two rows along the front edge up to the neckline (approx pick up ~ 30–32 sts; exact number depends on your tension). Repeat on left front for the left band.
2. Work both bands back-and-forth: 1x1 rib (K1, P1) for 10–12 rows or 1/2" / 1.25 cm. On the right band, create 5 evenly spaced buttonholes: Row for buttonholes (RS): K1, P1 as established until you come to the spot for a buttonhole, then K2tog, YO (this makes a 1-st buttonhole), continue in rib. Space buttons approximately 1.75" / 4.5 cm apart—adjust to taste (smaller children may need closer spacing).
3. Finish by working one more rib row and then BO loosely in pattern.

Sleeves

Transfer sleeve sts (45 sts each) from holders to needles. Join in MC and work in the round.

We want a cuff circumference of about 6.5 in / 16.5 cm which is about 36 sts at our gauge. Decrease evenly from 45 sts to 36 sts: decrease 9 sts total. One simple way is to decrease 1 st every 5th stitch across the next round (i.e., k4, k2tog, rep) adjusting spacing to be even; another option is to work 3 rounds even, then work a decrease round: *K6, k2tog* across until 36 sts remain. Use a neat, matching decrease (SSK or K2tog) placed opposite to maintain round rhythm. Try the decreases evenly so sleeve shape is smooth.

After decreasing to 36 sts, work in stripes to desired sleeve length from underarm about 10.5 in / 27 cm. Switch to smaller needles (US 5 / 3.75 mm) and work 1x1 rib for 1.25 in / 3 cm for cuff. BO loosely in rib. Repeat for second sleeve.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends neatly on the WS.
• Sew on 5 buttons to match the buttonholes on the right band.
• Block gently to measurements: steam or wet block following yarn care instructions. Pin to shape and let dry fully before wearing.

Sizing tweaks & Tips

• To make garment longer or shorter, add/subtract body rounds in multiples of the stripe repeat (8 rounds) to keep stripes aligned.
• If you'd like a pullover instead of a cardigan: omit buttonbands. After the yoke, join fronts together and continue the body in the round with desired stitch counts so the front is not split. You can leave the neckline wider or add a short rib collar.
• For extra softness and a little halo, choose a yarn with a bit of alpaca or brushed acrylic — avoid anything scratchy for kids.

Color & Style Notes

Stripe pattern here is playful: 4 rounds pink, 4 rounds green. For a more modern look, swap the widths: e.g., 8 rounds pink, 2 rounds green accent at hem and cuffs. Add a small embroidered heart on one front panel in contrasting green for a cute accent after blocking.

Support & Attribution

If you have questions about steps, gauge, or converting this into a pullover, email support: team@verde.uk or visit https://purljam.verde.uk. Share your makes with the tag #purljam — I love seeing your stripe combos!

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