purlJam

<pattern>

# DIAGONAL BUTTON RAGLAN CARDIGAN
### A Top-Down Seamless Cardigan with Eyelet Raglan Detail

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## SIZES
XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference:** 29(33, 37, 41, 45, 49)" / 74(84, 94, 104, 114, 124.5) cm
*Designed for 1" / 2.5 cm positive ease. Select size based on actual bust measurement of 28(32, 36, 40, 44, 48)".*

**Finished Length from Underarm:** 15(15, 15.5, 15.5, 16, 16)" / 38(38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm (excluding cable edging)

**Yoke Depth:** 7.5(8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" / 19(20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm

**Sleeve Length from Underarm:** 17(17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18)" / 43(43, 44.5, 44.5, 45.5, 45.5) cm (excluding cable cuff)

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYCA #4), approximately 1100(1250, 1400, 1550, 1750, 1900) yards / 1005(1145, 1280, 1420, 1600, 1740) m

**Needles:** 
- US 7 / 4.5 mm: 32" circular needle (body and yoke)
- US 7 / 4.5 mm: 16" circular needle or DPNs (sleeves)
- US 6 / 4 mm: 32" circular needle (cable edging)
- US 6 / 4 mm: DPNs or short circular (cable cuffs)
- Cable needle

**Notions:**
- 7 buttons, ¾" / 2 cm diameter
- Stitch markers (8, including 4 in a contrasting color for raglan lines)
- Waste yarn or stitch holders
- Tapestry needle

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## GAUGE

**Stockinette Stitch (larger needles):** 18 sts x 24 rows = 4" / 10 cm
*[Gauge Check: 4.5 sts per inch, 6 rows per inch]*

**Cable Pattern (smaller needles):** 8 sts = 1.5" / 4 cm

⚠️ **Gauge is critical for proper fit. Please swatch and block before beginning.**

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **yo** – yarn over
- **k2tog** – knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- **m1R** – make 1 right (lift bar from back, knit through front)
- **m1L** – make 1 left (lift bar from front, knit through back)
- **pm** – place marker
- **sm** – slip marker
- **RS** – right side
- **WS** – wrong side
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **C4B** – slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle
- **C4F** – slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Eyelet Raglan Increase (worked on RS rows)
At each raglan marker, work: **yo, k1 (raglan st), yo**
This creates a decorative eyelet line while maintaining 2 stitches increased per raglan line (8 sts total per RS row).

### 8-Stitch Rope Cable (for edging)
**Rows 1, 3 (RS):** K8
**Row 2 and all WS rows:** P8
**Row 5 (RS):** C4B, C4F
**Row 6 (WS):** P8
Repeat Rows 1-6 for pattern.

### Diagonal Buttonband Construction
The buttonband runs diagonally from the right front neckline to the left front hem (when worn), creating a dramatic asymmetrical closure. Short rows are used to shape the diagonal, with buttons placed along this line.

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. This cardigan is worked seamlessly from the top down.
2. The diagonal button closure is unique: the cardigan overlaps with the right front over left, with the buttonband traveling diagonally across the body.
3. Read through the entire pattern before beginning, especially the Diagonal Buttonband section.
4. All stitch counts are given as: XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL).

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## YOKE

### Neckband Setup
With larger 32" circular needle, cast on **66(66, 70, 74, 78, 78) sts**.

*[Math Check: Neck opening ≈ 14.5(14.5, 15.5, 16.5, 17.5, 17.5)" / 4.5 sts per inch]*

**Setup Row (WS):** Purl across.

**Division Row (RS):** 
K4 (right front), pm (raglan), k1 (raglan st), pm, k10(10, 10, 12, 12, 12) (right sleeve), pm (raglan), k1 (raglan st), pm, k34(34, 38, 38, 42, 42) (back), pm (raglan), k1 (raglan st), pm, k10(10, 10, 12, 12, 12) (left sleeve), pm (raglan), k1 (raglan st), pm, k4 (left front).

*[Stitch Count Check: 4 + 1 + 10(10,10,12,12,12) + 1 + 34(34,38,38,42,42) + 1 + 10(10,10,12,12,12) + 1 + 4 = 66(66,70,74,78,78) sts ✓]*

### Yoke Shaping with Eyelet Detail

**Increase Row (RS):** *Knit to 1 st before marker, yo, k1, sm, k1 (raglan st), sm, yo;* repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end. (8 sts increased)

**WS Rows:** Purl all stitches (working yo's as regular purl sts).

**AT THE SAME TIME, Shape Fronts:**
Continue working Increase Rows every RS row while also increasing at front edges for neckline shaping:

**Neck Increase Row (RS, worked every RS row for the first 10(10, 10, 12, 12, 14) RS rows):** K1, m1R, work Increase Row as established to last st, m1L, k1. (10 sts increased total: 8 raglan + 2 neck)

Work neck increases for **10(10, 10, 12, 12, 14) RS rows**.

After all neck increases:
- Right front: 14(14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts (plus raglan increase contributions)
- Left front: 14(14, 14, 16, 16, 18) sts (plus raglan increase contributions)

Continue raglan Increase Rows (without neck shaping) every RS row until yoke measures **7.5(8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" / 19(20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm** from cast-on edge.

Total raglan increase rows worked: **45(48, 51, 54, 57, 60) RS rows**

**Final Yoke Stitch Count:**
*[Math Check: Starting 66(66,70,74,78,78) + (8 sts × 45(48,51,54,57,60) increase rows) + (2 sts × 10(10,10,12,12,14) neck inc rows)]*

- Right Front: 59(62, 65, 70, 73, 78) sts
- Right Sleeve: 56(58, 62, 66, 70, 72) sts  
- Back: 126(132, 140, 148, 156, 162) sts
- Left Sleeve: 56(58, 62, 66, 70, 72) sts
- Left Front: 59(62, 65, 70, 73, 78) sts
- Plus 4 raglan sts

**Total: 360(376, 398, 424, 446, 466) sts**

### Divide for Body and Sleeves

**Division Row (RS):** 
Knit right front sts, place next 58(60, 64, 68, 72, 74) sts (sleeve + 2 raglan sts) on waste yarn, cast on **4(6, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts** for underarm, pm for side, cast on **4(6, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts**, knit across back, place next 58(60, 64, 68, 72, 74) sts on waste yarn, cast on **4(6, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts** for underarm, pm for side, cast on **4(6, 6, 6, 8, 10) sts**, knit left front.

**Body Stitch Count: 262(290, 314, 340, 372, 402) sts**

*[Math Check: 59(62,65,70,73,78) + 59(62,65,70,73,78) + 126(132,140,148,156,162) + 2 raglan sts remaining + 16(24,24,24,32,40) underarm sts = 262(290,314,340,372,402) sts]*

*[Measurement Check: 262(290,314,340,372,402) sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = 58.2(64.4, 69.8, 75.6, 82.7, 89.3)" full circumference. For cardigan fronts with overlap: body width ≈ 29(32, 35, 38, 41.5, 45)" + overlap = appropriate for finished measurements ✓]*

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## BODY

### Upper Body (Straight Section)
Work in stockinette st (knit RS, purl WS) for **2(2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5)" / 5(5, 5, 6.5, 6.5, 6.5) cm**.

### Waist Shaping (Decreases)

**Decrease Row (RS):** *Knit to 3 sts before side marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog;* repeat once more, knit to end. (4 sts decreased)

Work Decrease Row every **8th row** a total of **4 times**.

**Body Stitch Count after decreases: 246(274, 298, 324, 356, 386) sts**
*[Math Check: 262(290,314,340,372,402) - 16 = 246(274,298,324,356,386) sts ✓]*

### Hip Shaping (Increases)

Work even for **1" / 2.5 cm**.

**Increase Row (RS):** *Knit to 1 st before side marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L;* repeat once more, knit to end. (4 sts increased)

Work Increase Row every **8th row** a total of **4 times**.

**Body Stitch Count after increases: 262(290, 314, 340, 372, 402) sts**
*[Math Check: Back to original body count ✓]*

### Lower Body
Continue in stockinette until body measures **14(14, 14.5, 14.5, 15, 15)" / 35.5(35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38) cm** from underarm, or 1" / 2.5 cm less than desired length to hem (cable edging adds approximately 1.5").

End with a WS row. Do not bind off.

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## CABLE HEM EDGING

Change to smaller 32" circular needle.

**Setup Row (RS):** K