Arden Raglan Cardigan

A seamless, top-down raglan cardigan in worsted-weight yarn. Worked in one piece from the neck, with long sleeves, a straight hip-length body, and a continuous ribbed button band that also forms the neckband.

Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)"

Shown with 5–10 cm (2–4") positive ease. Choose the size closest to your bust plus the ease you prefer. Instructions are given for S, with M, L, XL and 2XL in parentheses. When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. Highlight your size throughout.

Finished measurements

Measured after blocking, cardigan buttoned (bands overlapping).

Straight body: hem equals bust.

Yarn

Worsted-weight (Aran / 10-ply) wool or wool-blend.

Metreage: 1150 (1300, 1450, 1650, 1850) m / 1260 (1420, 1590, 1800, 2020) yds

Approximate weight: 580 (650, 730, 830, 930) g, based on 200 m / 100 g

A smooth, round woollen-spun yarn will show the raglan lines clearly. Highly variegated colourways tend to hide the shaping.

Needles

• 5 mm (UK 6, US 8) circular needle, 80–100 cm long, for the body; same size DPNs or a long circular for magic-loop sleeves
• 4.5 mm (UK 7, US 7) circular needle, 80–100 cm long, for hem, cuffs and button band; DPNs in this size for cuffs if preferred

Use whatever needle size gives you the stated tension.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• 6 buttons, 18–20 mm diameter

Tension (gauge)

18 sts and 24 rows = 10 cm (4") over stocking stitch on 5 mm needles, after blocking.

Tension swatch

Cast on 26 sts on 5 mm needles. Work 32 rows in stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS). Cast off. Wash and dry the swatch as you will the cardigan, then mark the centre 18 sts and 24 rows and measure them. Stitch tension controls the bust, sleeves and length-around; row tension controls yoke depth and body length. If you have too many stitches in 10 cm, go up a needle size; too few, go down. Recheck after changing needles. Do not skip this step — raglan fit depends on it.

If your row tension differs, work the yoke to the measured depth given above rather than only to the stated row count, keeping the increase count the same.

Abbreviations

Notes

Construction. The cardigan is worked flat from the neck down. Four markers define the raglan lines. Sleeves are placed on waste yarn at the underarm; the body continues in one piece. Sleeves are worked in the round from the held stitches. A single ribbed band is picked up along the right front, around the neck, and down the left front.

Raglan line. Two knit stitches sit between the increases, one on each side of the marker. M1R leans into the line from the left; M1L leans into the line from the right, giving a clean 2-st raglan chain.

Marker positions after casting on (RS, right to left on the needle): Right front | Right sleeve | Back | Left sleeve | Left front. When you turn to work the first RS row, the left front is worked first.

Sizing tip. The finished bust is the body stitch count at 18 sts / 10 cm. The button bands overlap and do not add circumference.

Working flat vs in the round. Body and yoke are worked flat (knit RS, purl WS). Sleeves are worked in the round (knit every round).

Schematic (not to scale)

              neckband
         ________________
        /    back neck    \
       /                   \
      /      R  A  G  L     \         yoke depth
     |                       |
     |     /           \     |        20 (21.5, 23.5, 25, 26.5) cm
     |    /    sleeves  \    |
     |___/               \___|        upper arm
         |               |            33.5 (36.5, 40, 43.5, 46.5) cm
         |     BODY      |
         |               |            underarm to hem
         |               |            38 (40, 42, 43, 44) cm
         |_______________|
              hem = bust
     96.5 (106.5, 116.5, 126.5, 136.5) cm

     Sleeve from underarm to cuff edge:
     50 (51, 51, 52, 52) cm

Pattern

Yoke

With 5 mm circular needle and using a long-tail cast-on, cast on 62 (68, 78, 84, 94) sts, placing markers as follows:

Cast on 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) left-front sts, pm, 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) left-sleeve sts, pm, 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) back sts, pm, 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) right-sleeve sts, pm, 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) right-front sts.

Check: 10+6+30+6+10 = 62 ✓ · 12+6+32+6+12 = 68 ✓ · 14+8+34+8+14 = 78 ✓ · 16+8+36+8+16 = 84 ✓ · 18+10+38+10+18 = 94 ✓

Do not join. The piece is worked flat.

Row 1 (RS) — raglan increase row: *Knit to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 times more, knit to end. 8 sts increased.

Row 2 (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Repeat Rows 1–2 a further 23 (25, 27, 29, 31) times — 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) increase rows in total.

Stitch count after all raglan increases:

254 (276, 302, 324, 350) sts.

Check: 62 + (24 × 8) = 62 + 192 = 254 ✓ · 68 + (26 × 8) = 68 + 208 = 276 ✓ · 78 + (28 × 8) = 78 + 224 = 302 ✓ · 84 + (30 × 8) = 84 + 240 = 324 ✓ · 94 + (32 × 8) = 94 + 256 = 350 ✓

Distribution:

• Each front: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) sts — 10+24 = 34 ✓ · 12+26 = 38 ✓ · 14+28 = 42 ✓ · 16+30 = 46 ✓ · 18+32 = 50 ✓
• Each sleeve: 54 (58, 64, 68, 74) sts — 6+48 = 54 ✓ · 6+52 = 58 ✓ · 8+56 = 64 ✓ · 8+60 = 68 ✓ · 10+64 = 74 ✓
• Back: 78 (84, 90, 96, 102) sts — 30+48 = 78 ✓ · 32+52 = 84 ✓ · 34+56 = 90 ✓ · 36+60 = 96 ✓ · 38+64 = 102 ✓

Yoke should measure approximately 20 (21.5, 23.5, 25, 26.5) cm from the cast-on edge. If you are short of depth but already have the stitch count, work even in st st (no increases) to the stated depth, ending with a WS row. If you reach the depth early, stop increasing and work even to the end of that WS row, then proceed — but only if your stitch tension is accurate; otherwise the bust will come up small.

Divide body and sleeves

Next row (RS): Knit 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) left-front sts, remove marker, place the next 54 (58, 64, 68, 74) sleeve sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, cast on 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) underarm sts (backward-loop or knitted cast-on), knit 78 (84, 90, 96, 102) back sts, remove marker, place the next 54 (58, 64, 68, 74) sleeve sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, cast on 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) underarm sts, knit 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) right-front sts.

Body: 174 (192, 210, 228, 246) sts.

Check: 34+14+78+14+34 = 174 ✓ · 38+16+84+16+38 = 192 ✓ · 42+18+90+18+42 = 210 ✓ · 46+20+96+20+46 = 228 ✓ · 50+22+102+22+50 = 246 ✓

Bust: 174 sts ÷ 1.8 sts/cm = 96.7 cm ✓ · 192 ÷ 1.8 = 106.7 cm ✓ · 210 ÷ 1.8 = 116.7 cm ✓ · 228 ÷ 1.8 = 126.7 cm ✓ · 246 ÷ 1.8 = 136.7 cm ✓

Body

Working on these 174 (192, 210, 228, 246) sts only, continue in stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS) until the body measures 33 (35, 37, 38, 39) cm from the underarm divide, ending with a WS row.

Hem

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Next row (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Next row (WS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

(You now have 1×1 rib that aligns on every row because the stitch count is even.)

Continue in 1×1 rib until the hem measures 5 cm, ending with a WS row.

Cast off loosely in rib.

The body from underarm to cast-off edge measures 38 (40, 42, 43, 44) cm.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves alike.

With 5 mm DPNs (or magic loop) and RS facing, return the 54 (58, 64, 68, 74) held sleeve sts to the needles. Beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) sts along the underarm (1 st in each cast-on st). Knit across the held sleeve sts. Pick up 1 extra st in each underarm corner if a hole is visible; decrease these extras on the next round by working k2tog at each corner.

68 (74, 82, 88, 96) sts.

Check: 54+14 = 68 ✓ · 58+16 = 74 ✓ · 64+18 = 82 ✓ · 68+20 = 88 ✓ · 74+22 = 96 ✓

Place a marker for beginning of round at the centre of the underarm. Join to work in the round.

Knit 1 round.

Underarm shaping

Decrease round: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Knit 1 round.

Repeat the last 2 rounds a further 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times — 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) decrease rounds in total.

60 (66, 72, 78, 84) sts.

Check: 68 − (4 × 2) = 60 ✓ · 74 − 8 = 66 ✓ · 82 − 10 = 72 ✓ · 88 − 10 = 78 ✓ · 96 − 12 = 84 ✓

Upper arm: 60 ÷ 1.8 = 33.3 cm ✓ · 66 ÷ 1.8 = 36.7 cm ✓ · 72 ÷ 1.8 = 40 cm ✓ · 78 ÷ 1.8 = 43.3 cm ✓ · 84 ÷ 1.8 = 46.7 cm ✓

Taper

Work even in stocking stitch (knit every round) until the sleeve measures 8 cm from the underarm, then begin taper decreases as follows.

Decrease round: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work the decrease round every 8th (7th, 7th, 6th, 6th) round 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times in total (including the first).

36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts.

Check: 60 − (12 × 2) = 36 ✓ · 66 − 26 = 40 ✓ · 72 − 28 = 44 ✓ · 78 − 30 = 48 ✓ · 84 − 32 = 52 ✓

Work even until the sleeve measures 44 (45, 45, 46, 46) cm from the underarm, or 6 cm less than the desired finished length.

Cuff

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Work 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; repeat from * to end of rnd) for 6 cm.

Cast off loosely in rib.

Finished sleeve length: 50 (51, 51, 52, 52) cm.

Button bands and neckband

The band is picked up in one piece: up the right front, across the neck, and down the left front. Women’s cardigan: buttonholes sit on the right front as worn (the first section you pick up). For a men’s cardigan, place the buttonholes on the left front instead (the last section).

With 4.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm long, and RS facing, beginning at the right-front hem edge:

1. Pick up and knit 108 (114, 120, 126, 132) sts along the right front edge, at a rate of 3 sts for every 4 rows. (Aim for this count; it is 3/4 of the row-count along the edge.)
2. Pick up and knit 62 (68, 78, 84, 94) sts along the neck cast-on (1 st for each original cast-on st).
3. Pick up and knit 108 (114, 120, 126, 132) sts down the left front edge, at the same 3-for-4 rate, ending at the left hem.

278 (296, 318, 336, 358) sts.

Check: 108+62+108 = 278 ✓ · 114+68+114 = 296 ✓ · 120+78+120 = 318 ✓ · 126+84+126 = 336 ✓ · 132+94+132 = 358 ✓

If you are 1–3 sts away from the stated count, increase or decrease evenly on the first rib row. Keep an even total so 1×1 rib lies correctly.

Row 1 (WS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Rows 2–4: Continue in 1×1 rib as set.

Row 5 (RS) — buttonhole row: Rib 8 (8, 9, 10, 10), *yo, k2tog, rib 16 (17, 18, 19, 20); repeat from * 4 times more, yo, k2tog, rib 8 (9, 9, 9, 10), then rib in pattern across the neck and left-front stitches to the end.

Buttonhole check (right-front sts only):

• S: 8 + 5 × (2+16) + 2 + 8 = 8+90+2+8 = 108 ✓
• M: 8 + 5 × (2+17) + 2 + 9 = 8+95+2+9 = 114 ✓
• L: 9 + 5 × (2+18) + 2 + 9 = 9+100+2+9 = 120 ✓
• XL: 10 + 5 × (2+19) + 2 + 9 = 10+105+2+9 = 126 ✓
• 2XL: 10 + 5 × (2+20) + 2 + 10 = 10+110+2+10 = 132 ✓

On the following WS row, work the yarn-overs as purl stitches (or as they fall in the rib) so each hole stays open.

Rows 6–9: Work in 1×1 rib.

Cast off loosely in rib on the next RS row.

The band measures approximately 3.5 cm. Six buttonholes sit on the right front, with the lowest about 2 cm from the hem and the highest just below the neck corner.

Finishing

Weave in all ends, using the underarm tails to close any remaining gap at the sleeve join.

Sew six buttons to the left front band, opposite the buttonholes. Seat each button on the knit rib column that aligns with its hole.

Block. Soak the cardigan in lukewarm water with a little wool wash for 15–20 minutes. Press out water in a towel (do not wring). Lay flat to the finished measurements, pinning the bust, length, sleeve length and upper arm. Open the fronts so the bands lie flat and the neck is a smooth curve. Allow to dry completely.

After blocking, check button placement and re-sew if the fabric has shifted.

Knit checklist (counts at a glance)

Designer notes for a clean result

• Keep the two raglan stitches in knit on every RS row; they are the visual seam.
• A slightly loose cast-off on hem, cuffs and band is essential — the rib should stretch with the stocking-stitch fabric.
• If the neck feels wide after blocking, you may pick up the neck section of the band at a tighter rate (skip every 8th cast-on st) on a future knit; the counts above assume 1:1.
• Store a locking marker in the right front at the start of pickup so you always know which band carries the buttonholes.