Aloaca

Chunky Longline Raglan Cardigan

A relaxed, seamless long cardigan worked from the neck down in chunky yarn. Four raglan lines shape the yoke; the body continues in one piece to a ribbed hem, and the sleeves are knitted in the round from held stitches. A continuous 2×2 rib band is picked up along both fronts and around the neck, with buttonholes on the right front. Optional patch pockets finish the longline shape.

Designed to be worn open or lightly buttoned, with about 10–12 cm of positive ease.

Skill level: Intermediate (raglan shaping, short rows, picking up stitches, buttonholes, working in the round).

Sizes

UK 8 (10–12, 14–16, 18, 20)

Instructions are written for UK 8, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

To fit bust: 81 (91, 102, 107, 112) cm / 32 (36, 40, 42, 44) in

Choose the size closest to your actual bust. If you are between sizes or prefer a more oversized coatigan, go up one size.

Finished measurements

Measured after blocking, with fronts overlapping at the button band.

Ease at bust: approximately 10–12 cm.

Length is longline (upper to mid-thigh on average height). Add or subtract stocking-stitch rows before the hem rib to alter length; 18 rows ≈ 10 cm.

Yarn

Chunky / bulky weight, approximately 100 m per 100 g.

A wool–alpaca or wool blend is ideal: alpaca gives drape and softness; wool holds the raglan lines.

Metres required: 1000 (1200, 1300, 1500, 1600) m
Grams (at 100 m / 100 g): 10 (12, 13, 15, 16) × 100 g balls

Always buy an extra ball if your tension is slightly looser, or if you lengthen the body.

Suggested yarns: any chunky yarn that meets tension — for example a wool–alpaca chunky, Drops Andes / Wish, or a smooth wool chunky. Swatch and wash before you decide.

Needles & notions

• 6.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm long (body and yoke)
• 6.5 mm double-pointed needles, or a second 6.5 mm circular, for sleeves (magic loop is fine)
• 5.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm long (hem, cuffs, button band)
• 4 stitch markers (plus 1 contrasting marker for beginning of sleeve rounds)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons, 22–25 mm diameter

Tension (gauge)

13 stitches and 18 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 6.5 mm needles, after washing and blocking.

Swatch: Cast on 20 stitches. Work 28 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off. Wash as you will wash the cardigan, lay flat to dry, then measure the centre 10 cm. If you have more than 13 stitches to 10 cm, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down. Tension is critical — 1 stitch off changes the bust by about 7 cm at this yarn weight.

Row tension affects yoke depth and length. If your row tension differs, follow the centimetre measurements, not row counts.

Abbreviations (UK)

Cast off is used throughout (UK term for bind off).

Special techniques

Chain selvedge (front edges): On every row of the yoke and body, slip the first stitch purlwise wyib on RS rows and purlwise wyif on WS rows. This chain is what you pick up for the button band. The slipped stitch is part of the stitch count.

Wrap and turn (w&t):

• RS: slip next st purlwise wyib, bring yarn to front, return st to left needle, turn.
• WS: slip next st purlwise wyif, bring yarn to back, return st to left needle, turn.
• On a later row, work the wrap together with its stitch: insert the right needle under the wrap and into the stitch, and knit (or purl) them together.

Raglan increase row (RS): Slip 1, knit to marker, M1R, sm, M1L; repeat at each of the 4 markers; knit to last stitch, k1. 8 stitches increased.

Construction notes

The cardigan is worked in one piece from the neck down.

1. Cast on the neck, place 4 raglan markers.
2. Raise the back neck with short rows (no increases).
3. Increase 8 stitches every RS row at the raglan lines.
4. At underarm depth, park the sleeve stitches, cast on underarm stitches, and continue the body to the hem.
5. Work each sleeve in the round from the held stitches.
6. Pick up a continuous rib band along the right front, around the neck, and down the left front. Work buttonholes on the right front (as worn).
7. Optional patch pockets. Block. Sew on buttons.

Pattern

Yoke

With 6.5 mm circular needle, using a long-tail or cable cast-on, cast on 58 (60, 64, 70, 74) stitches.

Set-up row (WS): Sl 1 wyif, p 5 (5, 6, 6, 7), pm, p 12 (12, 12, 14, 14), pm, p 22 (24, 26, 28, 30), pm, p 12 (12, 12, 14, 14), pm, p 5 (5, 6, 6, 7), k1.

Stitch map, including the slipped selvedges:

• Right front (as worn, at the end of RS rows): 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts
• Right sleeve: 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts
• Back: 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) sts
• Left sleeve: 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts
• Left front: 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) sts

Check: 6 + 12 + 22 + 12 + 6 = 58 ✓
6 + 12 + 24 + 12 + 6 = 60 ✓
7 + 12 + 26 + 12 + 7 = 64 ✓
7 + 14 + 28 + 14 + 7 = 70 ✓
8 + 14 + 30 + 14 + 8 = 74 ✓

Markers sit on the 4 raglan lines: Left front / Left sleeve / Back / Right sleeve / Right front.

Back-neck short rows

These raise the back neck by about 3 cm so the cardigan sits properly on the shoulders. They add no stitches.

Short row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit to the third marker (the back / right-sleeve marker), sm, k 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), w&t.

Short row 2 (WS): Purl to the second marker (the left-sleeve / back marker), sm, p 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), w&t.

Short row 3 (RS): Knit to the wrapped stitch, work the wrap together with its stitch, k 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), w&t.

Short row 4 (WS): Purl to the wrapped stitch, work the wrap together with its stitch, p 3 (3, 4, 4, 5), w&t.

Short row 5 (RS): Knit to the wrapped stitch, work the wrap together with its stitch, knit to end, working the remaining wrap together with its stitch.

Short row 6 (WS): Sl 1, purl to end, working the remaining wrap together with its stitch.

Back neck has been raised; all stitches are back in work. 58 (60, 64, 70, 74) sts.

Raglan increases

Work raglan increases on every RS row 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) times as follows.

Increase row (RS): Sl 1 wyib, *knit to marker, M1R, sm, M1L; rep from * 3 more times (4 raglan lines), knit to end.
8 sts increased.

WS row: Sl 1 wyif, purl to last st, k1.

Work these 2 rows until you have completed 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) increase rows.

Stitch count after all raglan increases:
58 (60, 64, 70, 74) + 8 × 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) = 202 (212, 224, 238, 250) sts ✓

Distribution:

Checks:
UK 8: 24 + 48 + 58 + 48 + 24 = 202 ✓
UK 10–12: 25 + 50 + 62 + 50 + 25 = 212 ✓
UK 14–16: 27 + 52 + 66 + 52 + 27 = 224 ✓
UK 18: 28 + 56 + 70 + 56 + 28 = 238 ✓
UK 20: 30 + 58 + 74 + 58 + 30 = 250 ✓

Each front gains 1 st per increase row; each sleeve and the back gain 2.

Even section: Continue in stocking stitch with chain selvedge, without increases, until the front raglan line measures 22 (23, 24, 25, 26) cm from the cast-on edge (measure along the marker line, not over the short-rowed back). End ready for a RS row.

Divide body and sleeves

Divide row (RS): Sl 1, knit 23 (24, 26, 27, 29) (to the first marker — this completes the left front 24 (25, 27, 28, 30) sts), rm.

Place the next 48 (50, 52, 56, 58) sleeve stitches on waste yarn, removing the next marker.
Using a backward-loop or knitted cast-on, cast on 4 (8, 10, 10, 10) underarm stitches, pm at the centre of these cast-on stitches if you like (optional side marker).

Knit 58 (62, 66, 70, 74) back stitches, rm.

Place the next 48 (50, 52, 56, 58) sleeve stitches on waste yarn, removing the next marker.
Cast on 4 (8, 10, 10, 10) underarm stitches.

Knit remaining 24 (25, 27, 28, 30) right-front stitches.

Body stitches on the needle:
24 + 4 + 58 + 4 + 24 = 114 (UK 8) ✓
25 + 8 + 62 + 8 + 25 = 128 (UK 10–12) ✓
27 + 10 + 66 + 10 + 27 = 140 (UK 14–16) ✓
28 + 10 + 70 + 10 + 28 = 146 (UK 18) ✓
30 + 10 + 74 + 10 + 30 = 154 (UK 20) ✓

114 (128, 140, 146, 154) sts.

Body

Working back and forth in stocking stitch, keeping the chain selvedge on both front edges, continue until the body measures 51 (52, 53, 54, 55) cm from the underarm divide, ending with a WS row.

(The remaining 6 cm is rib. Total body from underarm will be 57 (58, 59, 60, 61) cm.)

Length note: Try the cardigan on. This is the moment to add or remove length. Remember you still have 6 cm of hem rib to add.

Hem rib

Change to 5.5 mm circular needle.

Next row (RS) — size UK 10–12 and UK 14–16 only: Decrease 2 stitches evenly across the row (k2tog twice, spaced well apart).
UK 8, 18 and 20: work this row with no decreases.

Stitches for rib: 114 (126, 138, 146, 154)
All are a multiple of 4 + 2, so 2×2 rib starts and ends with knit stitches. ✓

Rib row 1 (RS): Sl 1 wyib, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Rib row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p1, k1.

Repeat Rib rows 1–2 until the hem measures 6 cm, ending with a WS row.

Cast off in rib, not too tightly. (A 6.5 mm needle for the cast-off row gives a kinder edge if you tend to cast off firmly.)

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

Return 48 (50, 52, 56, 58) held sleeve stitches to 6.5 mm needles (DPNs, short circular, or magic loop).

With RS facing, beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 2 (4, 5, 5, 5) stitches along the first half of the underarm, knit the held sleeve stitches, pick up and knit 2 (4, 5, 5, 5) stitches along the remaining underarm. Place a marker for the beginning of the round (centre underarm).

52 (58, 62, 66, 68) sts.
48 + 4 = 52 ✓ · 50 + 8 = 58 ✓ · 52 + 10 = 62 ✓ · 56 + 10 = 66 ✓ · 58 + 10 = 68 ✓

If a small hole appears at either underarm corner, pick up an extra stitch there and decrease it away on the next round (k2tog or ssk at the gap).

Knit 6 rounds even.

Sleeve shaping

Decrease 2 stitches every specified round as follows:

Decrease round: K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work the remaining rounds even (if any) until the sleeve measures 39 (39, 40, 40, 41) cm from the underarm, or 6 cm less than the desired finished length.

Cuff

Change to 5.5 mm needles.

UK 10–12 and UK 14–16 only: On the first cuff round, decrease 0 extra stitches — 32 is already a multiple of 4.
All cuff counts 28 (32, 32, 36, 36) are multiples of 4. ✓

Rib round: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in k2, p2 rib until the cuff measures 6 cm.

Cast off loosely in rib.

Work the second sleeve to match.

Button band and neckband

The band is picked up in one continuous piece: up the right front (as worn), around the neck, and down the left front. Buttonholes sit on the right front for a women’s cardigan.

With 5.5 mm circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the right-front hem edge:

1. Right front: Pick up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows along the chain selvedge, from hem to the original neck cast-on. As a guide this is approximately 106 (108, 112, 114, 118) stitches; the exact number may vary with your row tension — that is fine.
2. Neck: Pick up and knit 1 stitch in each of the original cast-on stitches — 58 (60, 64, 70, 74) stitches — picking up 1 extra stitch at each of the 4 raglan corners if the edge looks tight (optional +4).
3. Left front: Pick up and knit 3 stitches for every 4 rows down to the hem, matching the right-front count.

Count the total. On the first rib row you will adjust to a multiple of 4 + 2 (so the band begins and ends with k2).

Rib row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end, decreasing or increasing 0–3 stitches evenly if needed so the total is a multiple of 4 + 2.

Rib row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work 2 more rows in established 2×2 rib (4 rows rib in total before buttonholes).

Buttonholes

Buttonhole row (RS): Work in rib up the right front only, making 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttonholes, then rib as set around the neck and down the left front.

Buttonhole: Work (yo, k2tog) aligned over a k2 column of the rib. If a hole would fall on a p2 column, work (yo, p2tog) instead.

Placement:

• Lowest buttonhole 3 cm above the hem.
• Highest buttonhole 1.5 cm below the right front-neck corner (where the front edge meets the neck).
• Remaining 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) buttonholes spaced evenly between those two.

Tip: Place locking markers on the right-front band at the buttonhole positions before you work the row, and count stitches between markers so the spacing is even.

Work 5 further rows in 2×2 rib (band measures about 5 cm).

Cast off in rib, keeping the same tension as the band — not tight, not flared.

Optional patch pockets (make 2)

With 6.5 mm needles, cast on 21 stitches (about 16 cm wide).

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, knit to end.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl to last st, k1.

Repeat these 2 rows until the pocket measures 16 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 5.5 mm. Work 4 cm of 2×2 rib:
RS: K1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, k1.
WS: Work stitches as they appear.

Cast off in rib.

Make a second pocket.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the wrong side, leaving pocket tails if you are adding pockets.
2. Block. Soak in lukewarm water with a little wool wash for 15–20 minutes. Press out water in a towel (do not wring). Lay flat to the finished measurements, pinning the fronts straight, the hem even, and the sleeves to length. Dry completely.
3. Pockets (optional): Pin each pocket to the fronts, 5 cm in from the front band seam and 8 cm above the top of the hem rib. Check they sit at the same height. Slip-stitch in place around the sides and lower edge, leaving the ribbed top open. Reinforce the top corners with an extra stitch or two.
4. Buttons: Sew 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons to the left front band, directly opposite the buttonholes. Use the yarn or matching sewing thread, and if the buttons are heavy, work a small stay-stitch on the wrong side.
5. Weave in remaining ends. Steam the bands lightly if they need to settle, without flattening the rib.

Schematic (blocked)

                    back neck
                 17 (18.5, 20, 21.5, 23) cm
              ______________
             /   yoke / raglan   \
            /  22 (23, 24, 25, 26) cm
           /                       \
   sleeve  |                         |  sleeve
   45 (45, 46, 46, 47) cm            |
           |         BODY            |
           |  57 (58, 59, 60, 61) cm |
           |                         |
           |_________________________|
              bust, buttoned
         93 (103, 113, 117, 123) cm

        total back length
        79 (81, 83, 85, 87) cm

Upper arm: 40 (45, 48, 51, 52) cm
Cuff: approximately 20 (22, 22, 24, 24) cm, in rib.

Fit and modification notes

• Bust ease is built in for chunky fabric. If you want it closer-fitting, work one size down and check the upper-arm measurement — raglan sleeves in bulky yarn need ease to bend.
• Length: 18 rows of stocking stitch ≈ 10 cm. Adjust before the hem rib.
• Sleeves: Adjust even rounds before the cuff. Keep the last 6 cm for rib.
• Buttons: 25 mm sits well on this band; smaller buttons will slip, larger ones will gape.
• Yarn substitution: Match tension after washing. Halo yarns (brushed alpaca) look beautiful but grow — block your swatch thoroughly.

Quick stitch-count recap

Enjoy your Aloaca cardigan.