Boho Granny-Stripe Structured Tote

A large, structured rectangular tote worked bottom-up in the round. A firm flat base supports a spacious interior, while classic granny stitch in three horizontal color blocks — Cream at the top, Warm Beige in the middle, and Sage Green at the bottom — gives the front, back, and sides a seamless textured finish. Round wooden shoulder handles and a wooden-bead side tie complete the handcrafted, boho look.

Finished Measurements

• Width (front/back): 15 in (38 cm)
• Height (base to top edge): 13 in (33 cm)
• Depth (side panels): 5 in (12.5 cm)
• Base: 15 in x 5 in (38 x 12.5 cm)
• Handles: Round wooden handles, 6–7 in (15–18 cm) outer diameter; strap drop once attached ≈ 9 in (23 cm)

Materials

• Yarn: 100% cotton, worsted weight (Weight 4)
  • Color A – Cream / Off-White (#F6F2EA): approx. 250 yd (230 m)
  • Color B – Warm Beige (#CFC2AE): approx. 220 yd (200 m)
  • Color C – Sage Green (#A8B39A): approx. 220 yd (200 m)
• Hook: US H/8 (5 mm)
• Notions:
  • 2 round wooden bag handles, 6–7 in (15–18 cm) diameter
  • 4–6 wooden beads (large hole, ½–¾ in / 12–18 mm)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • Scissors

Gauge

• In granny stitch: 4 clusters x 8 rounds = 4 in x 4 in (10 x 10 cm)
• In solid dc (base): 14 dc x 8 rows = 4 in (10 cm)
• Gauge is important for a structured shape. Go down a hook size if your fabric is loose.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• cl = cluster (3 dc worked together in one space)
• sp = space
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rep = repeat
• beg = beginning

Notes

• The bag is worked bottom-up: a flat solid-dc base first, then the body in continuous granny stitch rounds.
• Granny cluster = 3 dc worked into the same space.
• Corners use 2 clusters in one space to keep sharp, square corners for a structured shape.
• Each round begins with ch 3 (counts as first dc) plus 2 dc to complete the beginning cluster, and ends with a sl st join into the top of the beginning ch-3.
• To hide color-change jogs, stagger each new color join to a different corner (see Color Sequence).
• Color blocks (bottom → top): Sage (C) at bottom, Warm Beige (B) in the middle, Cream (A) at top.

Color Sequence (Body — 24 rounds total)

• Rounds 1–8: Color C – Sage Green (bottom block)
• Rounds 9–16: Color B – Warm Beige (middle block)
• Rounds 17–24: Color A – Cream (top block)

Each block = 8 rounds x ½ in per round ≈ 4 in tall. Three blocks = 12 in, plus base thickness and top border ≈ 13 in total height ✓.

PART 1 — The Flat Base (Color C – Sage Green)

The base is a solid rectangle worked in rows, then edged all around to create the perimeter for the body.

Foundation: With Color C, ch 47.

Row 1: dc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped 2 ch count as first dc) and in each ch across — 46 dc (counting the turning ch as a dc). Turn. (46 dc ≈ 13 in; combined with the edge stitches the full base length reaches 15 in ✓.)

Rows 2–11: ch 2 (does not count as st), dc in each st across — 46 dc. Turn. (11 rows x ~0.45 in = 5 in deep ✓.)

Do not fasten off. You will now work around the entire outer edge.

Base Edging Round (establishes perimeter)

Rnd B1: ch 1, work sc evenly around the entire rectangle as follows:

• 48 sc across each long side (one in each row-end / stitch, adjusting to hit 48),
• 16 sc across each short side,
• and 1 extra sc in each of the 4 corners is absorbed into the counts below.

Place a marker in each corner. Join with sl st to first sc.

Perimeter total = 48 + 16 + 48 + 16 = 128 sc. (128 sc ÷ 4 sts per cluster = 32 clusters per round ✓.)

Fasten off is NOT required — continue to the body, OR fasten off and rejoin Color C at any long-side corner.

PART 2 — The Body (Granny Stitch in the Round)

You will build 32 clusters per round with 2 clusters in each corner space to hold the rectangular shape.

Establishing Round (Color C)

Rnd 1: Join Color C with sl st in the first st after a corner.

• ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same base (this is your first cluster).
• Skip 3 sc, work 1 cluster (3 dc) in next st; rep around each side.
• At each corner marker: work (cluster, ch 2, cluster) into the corner region to turn the corner.
• Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3.

Cluster count check: Long sides give 12 clusters each (24), short sides give 4 clusters each (8) → 24 + 8 = 32 clusters, plus 4 corner ch-2 spaces ✓.

Granny Stitch Pattern Round (repeat for all following rounds)

Rnd: sl st into the nearest ch-1 space, ch 3 + 2 dc (beg cluster) in that space,

• ch 1, 1 cluster in next space between clusters; rep around,
• at each corner ch-2 space work (cluster, ch 2, cluster),
• end ch 1, join with sl st to top of beg ch-3.

Work this pattern round maintaining 32 body clusters + 4 corner double-clusters throughout.

Work the Color Blocks

Continue in Granny Stitch Pattern rounds, changing color as follows. To change color: complete the final sl st join of the last round with the new color, then begin the next round.

• Rounds 1–8: Color C – Sage Green
• Rounds 9–16: Color B – Warm Beige
• Rounds 17–24: Color A – Cream

Staggering tip: join each new color at a different corner than the previous to disguise the jog.

After Round 24, do not fasten off if working the top border in Cream (A).

Height check: 24 rounds x 0.5 in = 12 in body + 1 in top border ≈ 13 in ✓.

PART 3 — Top Border (Color A – Cream)

A firm border stabilizes the opening and frames the handle attachment points.

Border Rnd 1: ch 1, sc evenly around the entire top edge, working roughly 3 sc into each cluster space and 1 sc into each ch-1 space, and 2 sc in each corner ch-2 space. Join with sl st to first sc.

• Front/back: aim for ~52 sc across each long side.
• Sides: aim for ~20 sc across each short side.
• Total ≈ 52 + 20 + 52 + 20 = 144 sc ✓.

Border Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join.

Border Rnd 3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

PART 4 — Attaching the Round Handles

Handles attach to the front and the back panels (each handle spans one long side).

1. Lay the bag flat. On the front top edge, mark two points 4 in (10 cm) in from each side corner, leaving about 7 in (18 cm) between marks — this centers each handle over the panel.
2. With Color A, fold the top border over the bottom bar of the round wooden handle. Working through both the folded fabric and around the handle bar, work a row of sc snugly over the handle bar between your two marks (approximately 18–22 sc), enclosing the wooden ring.
3. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in tail. Use the tail to whipstitch the folded flap securely to the inside of the bag for reinforced strength.
4. Repeat on the back panel with the second handle.

Both panels are identical, so front and back handles match exactly ✓.

Strap drop: with a 6–7 in handle, the finished drop from top edge to the top of the ring is about 9 in (23 cm) — comfortable for shoulder carry.

PART 5 — Decorative Beaded Side Tie (Boho Accent)

1. Make a twisted cord / braid: Cut 6 strands of Color C (Sage), each 24 in (60 cm) long. Fold in half and braid, OR crochet a chain: with Color C, ch 40 (about 12 in), then sc back across the chain. Fasten off leaving long tails at both ends.
2. Add beads: Thread 2–3 wooden beads onto each hanging tail; knot below each bead to secure. Trim tails to leave small tassels.
3. Attach near the handle: On one side panel, at the top edge just below the border and near the handle base, thread the center of the tie through the fabric and tie in a loose decorative knot / bow so the beaded tails dangle.
4. For symmetry, you may add a matching tie on the opposite side.

Finishing

• Weave in all remaining ends with the tapestry needle.
• Gently steam-block the bag over a rectangular box or stuffing to set the structured shape.
• Turn right-side out; the flat base and firm border should let the tote stand on its own.

Final Dimension Summary (verified)

Enjoy your handmade boho tote!