Bristle Tweed Jacket

A hip-length knitted jacket in stocking stitch, designed for worsted-weight flecked tweed yarn (the mixed, bristle-like fibres often called toothbrush yarn). Worked flat in pieces from the bottom up with set-in sleeves, patch pockets, ribbed button bands and a simple collar. Beginner-friendly; seamed construction.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted-weight tweed or flecked yarn (wool or wool-blend; heathered “toothbrush” texture). Approximately 1100 (1250, 1400, 1550, 1650) metres [1200 (1370, 1530, 1695, 1800) yards]. Allow extra if your tweed is densely spun or you lengthen the body.

Needles:

• 3.75 mm (UK 9) for ribbing
• 4.5 mm (UK 7) for stocking stitch Straight or circular; use the 4.5 mm needles to obtain tension.

Notions:

• 7 buttons, 20–22 mm diameter
• 2 stitch holders
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Spare 4.5 mm needle for casting off (optional)

Gauge

Tension (gauge): 20 sts and 26 rows = 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

Work a swatch at least 15 × 15 cm, wash and dry as you will the jacket, then measure the centre 10 cm. Change needle size if needed so that 20 sts = 10 cm. Row tension of 26 rows = 10 cm is assumed in the lengths given; if yours differs, work to the centimetre measurements, not row counts.

Rib tension is not critical; 3.75 mm needles keep the welts firm.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL)

To fit bust: 81 (91, 102, 112, 122) cm [32 (36, 40, 44, 48) in]

Finished measurements (after blocking, worn with fronts overlapping):

Designed with approximately 10–11 cm (4–4¼ in) positive ease at the bust. Choose the size closest to your bust plus the ease you prefer. Figures in parentheses are for the larger sizes; when only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

Abbreviations

Notes

• UK English terminology is used throughout: stocking stitch, cast off, tension, centre, colour, fibre.
• The jacket is worked in five pieces: back, left front, right front, two sleeves. Patch pockets are worked separately and sewn on.
• 1 × 1 rib (k1, p1) is used for all welts, bands and the collar. On RS rows, knit the knits and purl the purls as they face you.
• Selvedge: work the first and last stitch of every stocking-stitch row firmly in pattern (knit on RS, purl on WS). These stitches are included in the stitch counts and are used for seaming.
• When shaping, work decreases one stitch in from the edge: RS armhole/neck at the beginning of a row is k1, ssk; at the end of a row is k2tog, k1. WS decrease rows are not used — all shaping is on RS rows unless a cast-off is needed at the beginning of a WS row.
• Make one left front and one right front, reversing the armhole and neck edges. Instructions are written for each front.
• Sleeve caps are slightly shorter than the armhole depth; ease the cap evenly into the armhole when sewing.
• Block every piece before seaming. Tweed yarns often bloom and even out with a wet block.
• Length is easily adjusted: work more or fewer centimetres in stocking stitch before the armhole. Recalculate yarn if you add length.

Back

With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 92 (102, 112, 122, 132) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Rib row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

These 2 rows form 1 × 1 rib (the cast-on is even, so the rib is k1 at both ends of RS rows if you prefer a knit selvedge: k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end on RS, and p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end on WS). Work in rib until the welt measures 6 cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Beginning with a knit (RS) row, work in stocking stitch until the back measures 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 84 (94, 102, 112, 120) sts.
[92 − 4 − 4 = 84 ✓; 102 − 8 = 94 ✓; 112 − 10 = 102 ✓; 122 − 10 = 112 ✓; 132 − 12 = 120 ✓]

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. 78 (86, 94, 102, 110) sts.
[3 (4, 4, 5, 5) decrease rows in total: 84 − 6 = 78 ✓; 94 − 8 = 86 ✓; 102 − 8 = 94 ✓; 112 − 10 = 102 ✓; 120 − 10 = 110 ✓]

Cont straight in st st until the armhole measures 16.5 (17.5, 18, 19.5, 21) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape back neck and shoulders

Next row (RS): K28 (30, 32, 34, 36), turn, leaving rem sts on a holder.
[28 + 22 (26, 30, 34, 38) + 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) = 78 (86, 94, 102, 110) ✓]

Work each side of the neck separately.

Right neck (as worn — this is the sts just worked):

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 27 (29, 31, 33, 35) sts.

Next row: Purl.

Next row: Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.

Cont straight until the armhole measures 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24) cm, ending with a WS row. Cast off rem 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.

Left neck:

With RS facing, slip centre 22 (26, 30, 34, 38) sts onto a holder for the neck, rejoin yarn to rem 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts and knit to end.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end. 27 (29, 31, 33, 35) sts.

Next row: Purl.

Next row: K1, ssk, knit to end. 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.

Cont straight until the armhole measures 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24) cm, ending with a RS row. Cast off rem 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.
[Shoulder 26 + neck 22 + 2 dec each side (4) + shoulder 26 = 78 ✓; 28+26+4+28=86 ✓; 30+30+4+30=94 ✓; 32+34+4+32=102 ✓; 34+38+4+34=110 ✓]

Fronts

Left Front (as worn)

With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 48 (52, 58, 62, 68) sts.

Work 6 cm in 1 × 1 rib as for the Back, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Beginning with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until the front measures 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole

The armhole is at the beginning of RS rows (side edge).

Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to end. 44 (48, 53, 57, 62) sts.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row: K1, ssk, knit to end. 1 st decreased.

Next row: Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. 41 (44, 49, 52, 57) sts.
[48 − 4 − 3 = 41 ✓; 52 − 4 − 4 = 44 ✓; 58 − 5 − 4 = 49 ✓; 62 − 5 − 5 = 52 ✓; 68 − 6 − 5 = 57 ✓]

Cont straight in st st until the armhole measures 12 (12.5, 13, 14, 15) cm, ending with a RS row (so the next row is WS, ready to cast off at the neck edge).

Shape neck

The neck is at the beginning of WS rows (centre-front edge).

Next row (WS): Cast off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, purl to end. 33 (35, 39, 41, 45) sts.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased at neck.

Next row: Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) times more. 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.
[7 (7, 9, 9, 11) neck decreases in total: 33 − 7 = 26 ✓; 35 − 7 = 28 ✓; 39 − 9 = 30 ✓; 41 − 9 = 32 ✓; 45 − 11 = 34 ✓]

Cont straight until the armhole measures 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24) cm, ending with a WS row. Cast off rem 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.
[Matches Back left shoulder ✓]

Right Front (as worn)

With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 48 (52, 58, 62, 68) sts.

Work 6 cm in 1 × 1 rib as for the Back, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Beginning with a knit row, work in stocking stitch until the front measures 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a RS row (so the next row is WS, ready to cast off at the armhole).

Shape armhole

The armhole is at the beginning of WS rows (side edge).

Next row (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end. 44 (48, 53, 57, 62) sts.

Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. 1 st decreased.

Next row: Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 2 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. 41 (44, 49, 52, 57) sts.
[Same armhole total as Left Front ✓]

Cont straight in st st until the armhole measures 12 (12.5, 13, 14, 15) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape neck

The neck is at the beginning of RS rows (centre-front edge).

Next row (RS): Cast off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, knit to end. 33 (35, 39, 41, 45) sts.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Next row: K1, ssk, knit to end. 1 st decreased at neck.

Next row: Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) times more. 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.
[33 − 7 = 26 ✓; same remaining as Left Front and Back shoulder ✓]

Cont straight until the armhole measures 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24) cm, ending with a RS row. Cast off rem 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts.

Sleeves

(Make 2)

With 3.75 mm needles, cast on 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts.

Work 6 cm in 1 × 1 rib as for the Back, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4.5 mm needles.

Beginning with a knit row, work 2 rows in stocking stitch.

Shape sleeve

Inc row (RS): K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. 2 sts increased.

Work 9 (7, 7, 6, 6) rows straight in st st.

Rep the last 10 (8, 8, 7, 7) rows 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) times more, then work the Inc row once more. 64 (70, 76, 82, 88) sts.
[10 (11, 12, 13, 14) increase rows: 44 + 20 = 64 ✓; 48 + 22 = 70 ✓; 52 + 24 = 76 ✓; 56 + 26 = 82 ✓; 60 + 28 = 88 ✓]

Cont straight in st st until the sleeve measures 45 (46, 46, 47, 47) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap

Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 56 (62, 66, 72, 76) sts.
[64 − 8 = 56 ✓; 70 − 8 = 62 ✓; 76 − 10 = 66 ✓; 82 − 10 = 72 ✓; 88 − 12 = 76 ✓]

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next row (WS): Purl.

Rep the last 2 rows 15 (17, 18, 20, 21) times more. 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts.
[16 (18, 19, 21, 22) decrease rows: 56 − 32 = 24 ✓; 62 − 36 = 26 ✓; 66 − 38 = 28 ✓; 72 − 42 = 30 ✓; 76 − 44 = 32 ✓]

Cast off rem 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) sts.

Button Bands

Block all pieces to the measurements in Sizes. Join both shoulder seams with mattress stitch, matching the 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) sts of each front shoulder to the back.

Left Front Band (button band)

With RS facing, 3.75 mm needles and starting at the neck edge of the left front, pick up and knit 96 (100, 104, 108, 112) sts evenly down the centre-front edge to the cast-on (approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows).

Work 9 rows in 1 × 1 rib, beginning with a WS row (p1, k1 across, or as required to keep a knit st at each end on RS).

Cast off loosely in rib.

Right Front Band (buttonhole band)

With RS facing, 3.75 mm needles and starting at the hem of the right front, pick up and knit 96 (100, 104, 108, 112) sts evenly up the centre-front edge to the neck.

Work 3 rows in 1 × 1 rib, beginning with a WS row.

Buttonhole row (RS): Work 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts in rib, [yo, k2tog, work 10 (10, 10, 10, 10) sts in rib] 6 times, yo, k2tog, work 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts in rib. 7 buttonholes.
[XS: 11 + 6 × (2 + 10) + 2 + 11 = 11 + 72 + 2 + 11 = 96 ✓
S: 12 + 6 × 12 + 2 + 12 = 12 + 72 + 2 + 12 = 98 — adjust the 6 inner gaps to 11 sts once: 12 + 5 × (2+11) + (2+10) + 2 + 12. Simpler even spacing below.]

Work the 7 buttonholes evenly along the row, with the first and last holes 4 sts in from each end. Each hole is yo, k2tog (or p2tog, yo if that better preserves the rib). Count remaining stitches between holes so they sit at roughly equal intervals — about 8 cm apart.

Work 5 more rows in 1 × 1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

The band should measure approximately 4 cm wide. If the picked-up edge flares or pulls, undo and pick up 2–4 sts more or fewer, keeping an even number.

Collar

With RS facing and 3.75 mm needles, beginning at the outer corner of the right front band (cast-off edge), pick up and knit 9 sts across the top of the right band, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts up the right front neck slope, 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts across the right front neck cast-off, knit 22 (26, 30, 34, 38) sts from the back-neck holder, pick up and knit 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts across the left front neck cast-off, 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) sts down the left front neck slope, and 9 sts across the top of the left band. 92 (102, 112, 122, 132) sts.
[9 + 18 + 8 + 22 + 8 + 18 + 9 = 92 ✓; 9+20+9+26+9+20+9 = 102 ✓; 9+22+10+30+10+22+9 = 112 ✓; 9+24+11+34+11+24+9 = 122 ✓; 9+26+12+38+12+26+9 = 132 ✓]

Work 10 rows (approximately 4 cm) in 1 × 1 rib. Cast off loosely in rib.

For a slightly higher stand collar, work 12–14 rows before casting off.

Finishing

Pockets (make 2)

With 4.5 mm needles, cast on 30 sts (15 cm wide).

Work 4 rows in 1 × 1 rib.

Beginning with a knit row, work 36 rows in stocking stitch (approximately 14 cm).

Work 4 rows in 1 × 1 rib. Cast off in rib.

Block the pockets. Pin each pocket to a front, ribbed top edge uppermost, with the lower edge 6 cm above the body welt and the inner side edge 4 cm in from the front band. Backstitch or mattress-stitch in place around the sides and lower edge, leaving the ribbed top open.

Seams

Set in the sleeves: pin the centre of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam, pin the underarm cast-offs together, and ease the cap evenly around the armhole. Sew with mattress stitch or backstitch just inside the selvedge.

Join sleeve seams and side seams in one continuous mattress-stitch line from cuff to hem, matching the rib.

Buttons

Sew 7 buttons to the left front band, opposite the buttonholes.

Ends and block

Weave in all ends. Give the finished jacket a final light steam or wet block, laying it flat to the schematic measurements. Do not stretch the rib. Tweed (toothbrush) yarns often soften and fill small gaps after washing — this is expected and part of the fabric.

Wear with the fronts overlapping and the collar standing or folded, as you prefer.