purlJam

# Cabled Comfort Teapot Cosy
### An advanced textured cosy in bulky wool, with a central cable and moss-stitch ground

A snug, characterful cosy designed to keep a 4–6 cup teapot warm. Two mirror-image panels are worked flat in moss-stitch texture with a bold central post-stitch cable, then seamed leaving openings for the handle and spout. A drawstring channel at the top draws the cosy closed around the lid for a tailored finish. The natural elasticity and warmth of 100% wool make this an ideal yarn choice.

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## Materials
- **Yarn:** Bulky weight (chunky), 100% wool — approx. **90 m / 100 g** total. (One 100 g ball of most bulky wools is sufficient.)
- **Hook:** 6.0 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain tension).
- **Notions:**
  - Tapestry/yarn needle for seaming
  - Cable needle (or use the standard post-stitch method without one)
  - Stitch markers (2–3)
  - Scissors
  - Optional: 60 cm of matching cord or a crocheted chain tie for the drawstring

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## Tension (Gauge)
**11 dc × 9 rows = 10 cm (4 in)** square in double crochet, using 6.0 mm hook, after light blocking.

> Tension is important here for a snug fit. Wool blocks generously — make and block a swatch before starting.

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## Size
Designed to fit a standard **4–6 cup teapot**:
- Pot body diameter approx. **14–15 cm**
- Finished cosy circumference (relaxed): **approx. 47 cm** (stretches to fit; wool's elasticity hugs the pot)
- Finished height (body, excluding top gather): **approx. 18 cm**

**To adjust:** Add or remove stitches in multiples that keep the moss ground even (add pairs to each side ground). Add/remove rows for height.

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## Abbreviations (UK terminology)
- **ch** — chain
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **dc** — double crochet (US: sc)
- **tr** — treble crochet (US: dc)
- **htr** — half treble (US: hdc)
- **FPtr** — front post treble (yo, insert hook from front around the post of the indicated st, complete as a tr)
- **BPtr** — back post treble (yo, insert hook from back around the post of the indicated st, complete as a tr)
- **sl st** — slip stitch
- **sk** — skip
- **rep** — repeat
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side

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## Special Stitches

**Moss texture (worked over an even number of sts):**
Row pattern alternates dc and ch-1 spaces, offset each row to create a pebbled "linen/moss" surface.
- *Texture Row:* (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) to last st, dc in last st.
- *Next Texture Row:* dc in each dc and in each ch-1 space, offsetting so dc lands in previous ch space — full instructions are given inline below.

**Cable Cross (C8 — over 8 cable sts):**
- *Front cross (FC):* sk 4 sts, work FPtr around each of the next 4 posts (sts 5–8 of the group), then go back and work FPtr around each of the 4 skipped posts (sts 1–4). Stitch count unchanged (8).
- For ease, you may slip the 4 skipped sts to a cable needle held to the front, work the next 4, then work the 4 from the cable needle.

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## Pattern Notes
- Worked **flat in two identical panels** (Front and Back), then seamed.
- Each panel is **26 sts wide** and the stitch count remains **26 sts on every row** (cable crosses do not alter the count).
- The turning **ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch** throughout.
- Cable panel = centre **8 sts**; moss ground = **9 sts** on each side of the cable.
- The cable is crossed every **4th row** (the "Cable Row").
- Read every row carefully — combining moss texture with post-stitch cables is what earns this its **advanced** rating.

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### PANEL (make 2 — Front & Back identical)

**Foundation:** Ch 27.

**Row 1 (WS):** dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. **(26 sts)**
> Check: 27 ch − 1 (skipped) = 26 dc. ✓

#### Set-up the texture and cable
**Row 2 (RS — Set-up):** ch 1 (does not count).
- *Moss ground (9 sts):* (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) 4 times, dc in next st. *(9 sts worked over 9 sts)*
- *Cable base (8 sts):* tr in each of next 8 sts.
- *Moss ground (9 sts):* dc in next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st) 4 times.
- Turn. **(26 sts: 9 + 8 + 9)**

> Tip: place a marker either side of the 8 central tr to track the cable panel.

**Row 3 (WS):** ch 1.
- *Moss:* (dc in next ch-sp, ch 1, sk next dc) … work dc into each ch-1 space and ch-1 over each dc to keep the offset; specifically: dc in first st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next) to the cable section — **9 sts**.
- *Cable:* dc in each of next 8 sts — **8 sts**.
- *Moss:* over last 9: dc in next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next) to end — **9 sts**.
- Turn. **(26 sts)**

**Row 4 (RS):** ch 1.
- *Moss 9:* (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) 4 times, dc in next st.
- *Cable 8:* tr in each of next 8 sts.
- *Moss 9:* dc in next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st) 4 times.
- Turn. **(26 sts)**

**Row 5 (WS):** Rep Row 3. **(26 sts)**

**Row 6 (RS — CABLE ROW):** ch 1.
- *Moss 9:* (dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1) 4 times, dc in next st.
- *Cable 8 — work C8 Front Cross:* sk next 4 sts, FPtr around each of the following 4 sts, then FPtr around each of the 4 skipped sts (working in front). **(8 sts)**
- *Moss 9:* dc in next st, (ch 1, sk 1, dc in next st) 4 times.
- Turn. **(26 sts)**

> The cable cross uses the posts of the previous row's treble stitches. Keep tension even — bulky wool can tighten here; pull the FPtr loops slightly longer.

**Row 7 (WS):** Rep Row 3. **(26 sts)**

**Rows 8–9:** Rep Rows 4–5. **(26 sts each)**

**Row 10 (RS — CABLE ROW):** Rep Row 6 (work C8 Front Cross over the centre 8). **(26 sts)**

**Rows 11–13:** Rep Rows 7–9 (i.e. Row 3, Row 4, Row 5). **(26 sts each)**

**Row 14 (RS — CABLE ROW):** Rep Row 6. **(26 sts)**

**Row 15 (WS):** Rep Row 3. **(26 sts)**

**Row 16 (RS):** Rep Row 4. **(26 sts)**

> You have now worked **16 rows** ≈ 18 cm with **three cable crosses** (Rows 6, 10, 14).
> Check height: 16 rows ÷ 9 rows/10 cm = 17.8 cm ≈ 18 cm. ✓

#### Top shaping (gather toward the lid)
The top is decreased to draw the cosy inward; both panels are shaped identically.

**Row 17 (WS — decrease):** ch 1, dc in first 2 sts, *dc2tog over next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end.
- Count: starting 26 sts → 2 dc + 6 repeats of (1 dec from 2) … work as: dc2tog 6 times across the row reduces 6 sts. **(20 sts)**
> Check: 26 − 6 = 20 sts. ✓

**Row 18 (RS):** ch 1, dc in each st across, turn. **(20 sts)**

Fasten off the **Back panel only**, leaving a 40 cm tail for seaming.
On the **Front panel**, do not fasten off if you wish to continue to the drawstring channel after joining — otherwise fasten off both, leaving tails.

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### ASSEMBLY

1. **Block** both panels flat to 23–24 cm wide × ~19 cm tall, opening up the moss texture and defining the cables. Allow to dry fully.

2. **Place panels** with RS facing each other (or WS facing for a visible decorative seam — your choice).

3. **Seam the top:** Using a tapestry needle and the 40 cm tail, whip-stitch or mattress-stitch across the **top edge (Rows 17–18 region)** of both panels for about **5 cm in from each side edge**, leaving the very centre top open if desired for the lid knob, OR seam the full top and rely on the drawstring. *(Recommended: seam top fully; the drawstring channel below provides closure adjustment.)*

4. **Seam the lower sides — leaving openings:**
   - Along each side edge, seam from the **bottom upward for 5 cm** (this anchors the cosy under the pot's widest point).
   - **Leave a gap of approx. 8 cm** for the **handle** on one side and the **spout** on the other.
   - Resume seaming the remaining upper side edge to the top.

> Check the gap placement against your specific teapot before sewing — handle and spout heights vary. Pin first and test-fit over the warm (not hot) pot.

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### DRAWSTRING CHANNEL (top closure)

Work around the top opening edge to create an eyelet round for the tie:

**Round 1 (join the open top edge in the round):** With RS facing, join yarn at one side seam at the top edge. ch 1, work an even round of dc evenly around the top opening, aiming for a **multiple of 2 sts**; place a marker at the join, sl st to first dc.
> Suggested count for this size: **24 dc** around. **(24 sts)**

**Round 2 (eyelets):** ch 3 (counts as tr), sk 1, *tr in next, ch 1, sk 1; rep from * around, sl st to top of beg ch-3. **(12 tr, 12 ch-1 spaces)**
> Check: 24 sts → 12 (tr + ch-sp) pairs. ✓

**Round 3:** ch 1, dc in each tr and each ch-1 space around, sl st to first dc. **(24 sts)**

Fasten off and weave in ends.

**Drawstring:** Make a chain approx. 60 cm long (or use cord). Weave through the ch-1 eyelets in Round 2. Knot or tassel the ends.

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## FINISHING
1. Weave in all remaining ends on the WS.
2. Re-block lightly if needed to set the cables.
3. Place over the teapot, feeding handle and spout through their openings, and pull the drawstring to snug the top around the lid. Tie in a bow.

> **Care:** As this is 100% wool, hand-wash in cool water with wool-safe detergent, reshape, and dry flat. Do not wring.

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### Designer's Tips
- **Cable definition:** The FPtr cables pop more after blocking — don't judge them until dry.
- **Snug fit:** Wool stretches; if between sizes, size down for a tighter hug.
- **Reversible option:** Seaming with WS together gives a rustic exposed seam that suits the chunky texture.

**Stitch-count summary (per panel):** Foundation 26 sts → maintained at 26 sts through Row 16 → 20 sts after Row 17 → 20 sts Row 18. All cable rows preserve the 26-st count. ✓