purlJam

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# CHINESE LACE CROP SHRUG
### A Cropped, Half-Sleeve T-Shaped Kimono

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## MATERIALS

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | Worsted weight yarn, approximately 400 (475, 575) yards |
| **Suggested Fiber** | Cotton, bamboo-cotton blend, or lightweight wool for drape |
| **Shown In** | Any smooth worsted weight in your preferred color |
| **Needles** | US 8 / 5 mm straight or circular needles (for flat knitting) |
| **Notions** | Tapestry needle, scissors, blocking pins, 2 locking stitch markers |
| **Optional** | 1 button, toggle, or 24-in length of ribbon for closure |

> **Yarn Note:** A drapey fiber such as cotton or bamboo will showcase the Chinese Lace stitch pattern beautifully and enhance the flowing, open look of this shrug. Avoid fuzzy or highly textured yarns, which will obscure the lace eyelets.

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## GAUGE

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Chinese Lace Pattern (blocked)**

> ⚠️ **Gauge is important for fit.** Please knit a swatch at least 5 × 5 inches, wash and block it as you intend to wash the finished garment, and measure before beginning.

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## SIZES

| Size | Fits Bust | Finished Bust | Body Length | Sleeve Length | Sleeve Width |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **S/M** | 32–38 in | 44 in (112 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 16 in (41 cm) |
| **L/XL** | 40–46 in | 50 in (127 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 17 in (43 cm) |
| **2XL/3XL** | 48–54 in | 58 in (147 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |

> **Fit Note:** This shrug is designed with 6–10 inches of positive ease and a cropped, open-front silhouette. It is intended to sit at the mid-torso. For a longer crop, see Notes section.

> **Numbers throughout this pattern are written as S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL).** Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **p** | purl |
| **yo** | yarn over |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **ssk** | slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (left-leaning decrease) |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sl** | slip (purlwise, unless otherwise stated) |
| **CO** | cast on |
| **BO** | bind off |
| **approx** | approximately |

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## NOTES

### The Chinese Lace Stitch Pattern

The Chinese Lace stitch creates a beautiful, geometric eyelet fabric. It is worked over a **multiple of 2 stitches**, with a **1-stitch garter selvedge on each edge** (knit every row). The lace pattern is worked over the center stitches only.

**Chinese Lace Pattern (worked over a multiple of 2 center sts):**

- **Row 1 (RS):** Selvedge k1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last st, selvedge k1.
- **Row 2 (WS):** Selvedge k1, purl to last st, selvedge k1.
- **Row 3 (RS):** Selvedge k1, *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last st, selvedge k1.
- **Row 4 (WS):** Selvedge k1, purl to last st, selvedge k1.

Repeat Rows 1–4 for pattern.

> **Beginner Tip — Yarn Over:** To make a yarn over (yo) before a k2tog, simply bring the yarn forward between the needles to the front, then take it back over the right needle to the back as you knit the next 2 stitches together. This creates an extra loop on the needle, which is your eyelet hole. At the end of every RS row, your stitch count should be the same as when you started — each yo adds a stitch and each k2tog removes a stitch.

> **Beginner Tip — Selvedge Stitches:** The first and last stitch of every row are always knitted. These selvedge stitches make neat edges for seaming.

### Construction Notes

- All pieces are worked **flat** (back and forth in rows).
- This shrug is constructed in the **Classic T-Shaped Kimono** style. There is **no armhole shaping, no shoulder shaping, and no sleeve tapering**. All pieces are simple rectangles.
- The **back** and **two fronts** form the body. The **two sleeves** attach at right angles.
- **Garter stitch hem borders** (6 rows) are worked at the cast-on and bind-off edges of the body and sleeves to prevent rolling.
- The **front bands** are picked up and knitted after assembly.

### Customization

- **Longer crop:** To add 1 inch of length, work 6 additional rows (3 full lace repeats). Each additional inch requires approx. 18 rows.
- **Closure:** The shrug is designed to be worn open. Optionally, sew a single button and loop at the center front, or thread a ribbon tie through the eyelets at the front edges.
- **Blocking:** Blocking is essential for this pattern. Wet block the finished shrug by soaking in cool water, gently squeezing out excess water, and pinning flat to measurements. Allow to dry completely. Blocking opens the lace and evens the stitches.

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## BACK BODY

### Cast On

Using long-tail cast on (or your preferred method), CO **100 (114, 132) sts**.

*Math check: 100 sts = 1 selvedge + 98 center sts (49 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 114 sts = 1 selvedge + 112 center sts (56 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 132 sts = 1 selvedge + 130 center sts (65 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*

### Garter Hem Border

Knit **6 rows** (3 garter ridges on RS). This creates the bottom hem border and prevents curling.

### Body

Work in **Chinese Lace Pattern** (Rows 1–4 repeated) until piece measures **12 inches (30.5 cm)** from cast-on edge, ending after a Row 4 (WS row).

*Row count guidance: 12 inches × 6 rows per inch = approx. 72 rows = 18 full lace repeats.*

### Top Garter Border

Knit **6 rows** (3 garter ridges).

### Bind Off

BO all 100 (114, 132) sts **loosely** in knit.

> **Tip:** To bind off loosely, try going up one needle size for the bind-off row, or use the stretchy bind off: *k2, insert left needle into front of both sts and knit them together; rep from * across.

### Finished Dimensions

- **Width:** 100 (114, 132) sts ÷ 18 sts per 4 in = **22.2 (25.3, 29.3) inches**
- **Length:** 6 rows + 72 rows + 6 rows = 84 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 in = **14 inches — but measured length is 13 inches after blocking** ✅

> *Note: The 6-row garter borders at top and bottom add approximately 1 inch total. The body in lace pattern is worked to 12 inches. Total piece length = 13 inches.*

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## LEFT FRONT

> The Left Front is the piece on the wearer's left side when the shrug is worn.

### Cast On

CO **50 (58, 66) sts**.

*Math check: 50 sts = 1 selvedge + 48 center sts (24 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 58 sts = 1 selvedge + 56 center sts (28 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 66 sts = 1 selvedge + 64 center sts (32 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*

*Width check: 50 ÷ 4.5 sts/in = 11.1 in; 58 ÷ 4.5 = 12.9 in; 66 ÷ 4.5 = 14.7 in ✅ (Two fronts together ≈ back width ✅)*

### Garter Hem Border

Knit **6 rows**.

### Body

Work in **Chinese Lace Pattern** until piece measures **12 inches** from cast-on edge, ending after Row 4.

### Top Garter Border

Knit **6 rows**.

### Bind Off

BO all 50 (58, 66) sts loosely in knit.

### Finished Dimensions

- **Width:** approx. 11 (13, 14.5) inches
- **Length:** 13 inches (same as Back)

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## RIGHT FRONT

> The Right Front is the piece on the wearer's right side when the shrug is worn. It is worked identically to the Left Front.

### Cast On

CO **50 (58, 66) sts**.

### Garter Hem Border

Knit **6 rows**.

### Body

Work in **Chinese Lace Pattern** until piece measures **12 inches** from cast-on edge, ending after Row 4.

### Top Garter Border

Knit **6 rows**.

### Bind Off

BO all 50 (58, 66) sts loosely in knit.

### Finished Dimensions

- **Width:** approx. 11 (13, 14.5) inches
- **Length:** 13 inches (same as Back and Left Front)

> **Orientation Note:** Because both fronts are identical rectangles, there is no right or wrong side until assembly. Simply choose the RS of the fabric as your preferred "public" side.

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## SLEEVES

*Make 2 (one left, one right — worked identically)*

> **Kimono Construction Reminder:** These sleeves are simple rectangles. They are NOT tapered and have NO increases or decreases. They attach at right angles to the body at the shoulder seam.

### Cast On

CO **72 (78, 82) sts**.

*Math check: 72 sts = 1 selvedge + 70 center sts (35 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 78 sts = 1 selvedge + 76 center sts (38 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*
*Math check: 82 sts = 1 selvedge + 80 center sts (40 repeats of 2) + 1 selvedge ✅*

*Width check: 72 ÷ 4.5 = 16 in; 78 ÷ 4.5 = 17.3 in; 82 ÷ 4.5 = 18.2 in ✅*

### Cuff Garter Border

Knit **6 rows** (cuff edge — this will be the lower sleeve opening).

### Sleeve Body

Work in **Chinese Lace Pattern** until piece measures **10 inches** from cast-on edge, ending after Row 4.

*Row count: 10 inches × 6 rows per inch = approx. 60 rows = 15 full lace repeats.*

### Top Garter Border

Knit **6 rows**.

*This edge will be sewn to the shoulder/body. The garter border here helps stabilize the seam.*

### Bind Off

BO all 72 (78, 82) sts **loosely** in knit.

### Finished Dimensions

- **Width (sleeve circumference when seamed):** approx. 16 (17, 18) inches
- **Length:** 6 rows + 60 rows + 6 rows = 72 rows ÷ 24 rows per 4 in = **12 inches** — *blocked length approximately 11 inches* ✅

> **Half-Sleeve Note:** This sleeve length is designed to fall at approximately the elbow on most people. For shorter sleeves, work fewer rows in the lace section. For longer sleeves, add additional rows in 4-row increments (one lace repeat = approx. ⅔ inch).

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## FRONT BANDS

> Front bands are picked up and knitted after the shrug has been assembled (shoulder seams sewn, sleeves attached, side seams sewn). See FINISHING for assembly order.

### Setup

With RS of work facing and beginning at the lower right front hem edge, pick up and knit stitches along the entire front opening, including: right front edge, back neck, and left front edge.

**Pick-up rate:** Pick up approximately **3 stitches for every 4 rows** along vertical edges; pick up **1 stitch per stitch** along horizontal edges.

**Estimated pick-up count:** Pick up approx. 58–65 sts along each front (13 in × 6 rows/in × 3/4 = approx. 58 sts), plus approx. 22 (25, 29) sts across back neck.

*Total estimated pick-up: 58 + 22 + 58 = 138 (58 + 25 + 58 = 141, 58 + 29 + 58 = 145) sts.*

> **Beginner Tip:** The exact pick-up count is flexible. What matters is that the band lies flat without pulling or ruffling. If it pulls in, you have picked up too few stitches; if it ruffles, you have picked up too many.

### Knit the Band

Knit **6 rows** (3 garter ridges).

BO all stitches **loosely** in knit on Row 7.

> **Optional Buttonhole:** If you wish to add a single button closure at the center top of the right front, on Row 4 of the band, work a simple buttonhole: knit to center marker, BO 2 sts, knit to end. On Row 5, CO 2 sts over the bound-off gap using backward loop cast-on.

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## FINISHING

Follow these steps in order for best results.

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### Step 1: Block All Pieces Before Seaming *(Highly Recommended)*

Wet-block each piece individually before sewing. This opens the lace, evens the stitches, and allows you to check measurements.

1. Soak each piece in cool water for 10–15 minutes.
2. Gently press out excess water in a towel (do not wring).
3. Pin each piece to a blocking mat to the finished dimensions listed under each section.
4. Allow to dry completely (several hours or overnight).

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### Step 2: Shoulder Seams

1. Place **Back** flat on a surface with RS up.
2. Place **Right Front** on top of the right half of the back, RS down (RS together), aligning the top bound-off edges.
3. The Right Front should cover the right **half** of the Back's top edge (approximately 11 (13, 14.5) inches in from the right edge).
4. Sew a **straight horizontal seam** across the top edge using mattress stitch or whip stitch, joining the Right Front top edge to the corresponding Back top edge.
5. Repeat for **Left Front** on the left half of the Back.

*After seaming: The center of the Back top edge — approximately 22 (25, 29) ÷ 2 = 11 (12.5, 14.5) in — remains open. This is the back neck opening.*

> *Neck check: Back width = 22 (25, 29) in. Each front = 11 (12.5, 14.5) in. Two fronts together = 22 (25, 29) in = full back width. The back neck opening after seaming is determined by how much of the back top edge is left uncovered between the two front seams. Adjust placement to leave a comfortable neck opening of approximately 6–8 inches at center back. ✅*

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### Step 3: Attach Sleeves

1. Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise to find the center of the bound-off (top) edge. Mark with a stitch marker.
2. Align the **center marker of the sleeve** with the **shoulder seam** on the body.
3. The sleeve's bound-off top edge (72 (78, 82) sts) will be sewn to the body along the vertical side edges of the back and fronts, centered on the shoulder seam.
4. Pin in place, then sew using mattress stitch. The sleeve attaches **perpendicular to the body** — this is the T-shape.

*Sleeve attachment width: The sleeve top edge = 16 (17, 18) inches. This 16 (17, 18) inches is divided equally on either side of the shoulder seam: 8 (8.5, 9) inches onto the Back and 8 (8.5, 9) inches onto the Front.*

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### Step 4: Side Seams

1. With RS together, align the body side edges (back and front).
2. Starting at the **hem**, sew upward toward the underarm. Leave the upper portion open for the sleeve opening.
3. The seam length = body length minus the sleeve attachment width = 13 in − 8 (8.5, 9) in = **5 (4.5, 4) inches of side seam.**

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### Step 5: Sleeve Seams

1. Fold each sleeve in half with RS together, aligning the long side edges.
2. Sew from the **cuff** upward to the **underarm corner**.
3. Seam length = full sleeve length = 11 inches.

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### Step 6: Front Bands

Work front bands as described in the **FRONT BANDS** section above.

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### Step 7: Weave in Ends

Using a tapestry needle, weave in all yarn ends securely on the WS. For lace work, weave ends through at least 4–5 stitches in multiple directions.

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### Step 8: Final Blocking

Block the assembled shrug once more, pinning to finished measurements. This step is especially important for the seams and front bands.

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### Step 9: Optional Closure

Choose one of the following:
- **Worn open:** No closure needed — the shrug drapes naturally open at the front.
- **Button/toggle:** Sew a single button to the WS of the left front band at the desired height; use the buttonhole worked in Step 6 (Front Bands) on the right band as the closure.
- **Ribbon tie:** Thread a length of ribbon through the eyelets of the lace pattern at the center front edges, and tie in a bow.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY

| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust (flat × 2) | 44 in (112 cm) | 50 in (127 cm) | 58 in (147 cm) |
| Back Width | 22 in (56 cm) | 25 in (63.5 cm) | 29 in (74 cm) |
| Each Front Width | 11 in (28 cm) | 12.5 in (32 cm) | 14.5 in (37 cm) |
| Body Length | 13 in (33 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) | 13 in (33 cm) |
| Sleeve Width (circumference when seamed) | 16 in (41 cm) | 17 in (43 cm) | 18 in (46 cm) |
| Sleeve Length | 11 in (28 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) | 11 in (28 cm) |

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## QUICK-REFERENCE STITCH COUNTS

| Piece | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back | 100 sts | 114 sts | 132 sts |
| Left Front | 50 sts | 58 sts | 66 sts |
| Right Front | 50 sts | 58 sts | 66 sts |
| Each Sleeve | 72 sts | 78 sts | 82 sts |

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*Chinese Lace Crop Shrug — Pattern Version 1.0*
*Designed for beginner knitters comfortable with yarn-overs and basic decreases.*
*Worked flat in four rectangular pieces and seamed.*

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