purlJam

---

# CABLED CROP CARDIGAN

### A Cropped, Drop-Shoulder, Button-Front Cardigan with Continuous Edge-to-Edge Cables

---

## DESCRIPTION

This relaxed, boxy cropped cardigan is knitted in five flat pieces and seamed, featuring continuous edge-to-edge rope cables across the back, fronts, and sleeves. An intricate 8-row cable repeat — combining travelling 1×1 twists, braided 6-stitch cables, and an 8-stitch centre rope — flows uninterrupted from selvedge to selvedge on every piece. A 1×1 rib frames the hem, cuffs, and button bands, and five or six buttons close the front. The silhouette is cropped and boxy with a crew neck and drop shoulders.

**Difficulty:** Intermediate — requires confidence with cables, reading multi-row repeats, and managing partial motifs at edges.

---

## SIZES

| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust | Finished Length | Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) |
|------|-------------|---------------|-----------------|----------------------------------|
| **S** | 76–81 cm (30–32 in) | 92 cm (36 in) | 46 cm (18 in) | 44 cm (17.5 in) |
| **M** | 86–91 cm (34–36 in) | 102 cm (40 in) | 46 cm (18 in) | 46 cm (18 in) |
| **L** | 97–102 cm (38–40 in) | 112 cm (44 in) | 46 cm (18 in) | 47 cm (18.5 in) |

Instructions are written for Size S, with M and L in parentheses: **S (M, L)**.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Worsted weight, approximately 200 m (220 yds) per 100 g skein.
- Size S: 8 skeins / approx. 1,600 m (1,750 yds)
- Size M: 9 skeins / approx. 1,800 m (1,970 yds)
- Size L: 10 skeins / approx. 2,000 m (2,190 yds)

*Sample shown in a smooth, plied wool or wool-blend; cables read best in non-textured yarn.*

**Needles:**
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) straight or long circular needles — for main body and sleeves
- 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) straight or circular needles — for 1×1 rib (hem, cuffs, button bands)

**Notions:**
- Cable needle
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- 5 (5, 6) buttons, approximately 15–18 mm diameter
- Sewing needle and matching thread

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**Critical Swatch Information:**

The exact tension for this pattern is derived from the designer's physical cable swatch. The isolated 34-stitch cable panel measures precisely **3.25 in (8.25 cm)** in width on 4 mm needles.

This gives: **10.46 stitches per inch / 4.12 stitches per centimetre.**

Row tension (measured over cable fabric): **16 rows = 5 cm (2 in)** on 4 mm needles.

> **Designer's Note:** Because this garment uses continuous cables, your tension swatch *must* be the full 34-stitch cable panel worked over at least 20 rows. Measure the width of the panel only (not including any border stitches). If your swatch differs, adjust needle size until the 34-stitch panel = exactly 3.25 in / 8.25 cm. Do not attempt to use a plain stockinette tension; it will not translate accurately to the cabled fabric.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **p** | purl |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **rem** | remaining |
| **beg** | beginning |
| **cont** | continue |
| **inc** | increase |
| **dec** | decrease |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |
| **wyib** | with yarn in back |
| **wyif** | with yarn in front |
| **Sl1K** | slip 1 stitch knitwise |
| **Sl1P** | slip 1 stitch purlwise |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **ssk** | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| **M1L** | make 1 left (lift bar between sts and knit through back loop) |
| **M1R** | make 1 right (lift bar between sts and knit through front loop) |
| **1/1L** | 1-over-1 Left Twist: slip 1 to cable needle, hold in front; k1 from left needle; k1 from cable needle |
| **1/1R** | 1-over-1 Right Twist: slip 1 to cable needle, hold in back; k1 from left needle; k1 from cable needle |
| **C6F** | Cable 6 Front: slip 3 to cable needle, hold in front; k3 from left needle; k3 from cable needle |
| **C6B** | Cable 6 Back: slip 3 to cable needle, hold in back; k3 from left needle; k3 from cable needle |
| **C8F** | Cable 8 Front: slip 4 to cable needle, hold in front; k4 from left needle; k4 from cable needle |
| **C8B** | Cable 8 Back: slip 4 to cable needle, hold in back; k4 from left needle; k4 from cable needle |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

### A. The 34-Stitch Cable Panel (Full Module)

The entire garment is built from this 34-stitch, 8-row repeat. Study this panel before beginning. It is worked as follows:

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1. *[34 sts]*
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1P wyif, p2, k2, p4, k2, p12, k2, p4, k2, p3. *[34 sts]*
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1. *[34 sts]*
**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2. *[34 sts]*
**Row 5 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, C6F, p2, k12, p2, C6F, p2, 1/1R, k1. *[34 sts]*
**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2. *[34 sts]*
**Row 7 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, C8B, k4, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1. *[34 sts]*
**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2. *[34 sts]*

**Stitch Count Verification (Row 1):** 1 + 2 + 2 + 4 + 2 + 12 + 2 + 4 + 2 + 2 + 1 = **34 sts** ✅

Rows 1–8 form the **Cable Pattern Repeat**. Repeat these 8 rows for the length of the piece.

---

### B. Anatomy of the Panel

Understanding the structure enables you to work partial motifs at edges:

```
[Sl1K/Sl1P] [1/1L or 1/1R] [P2] [K4 rope] [P2] [K12 centre] [P2] [K4 rope] [P2] [1/1R or 1/1L] [K1]
   1 st         2 sts       2 sts  4 sts    2 sts   12 sts      2 sts  4 sts   2 sts    2 sts       1 st
```

Reading left to right on RS rows, the elements are:
- **Column A:** 1 slip stitch (selvedge)
- **Column B:** 2-st travelling twist (1/1L on RS, becomes edge of twist on adjacent panels)
- **Column C:** 2-st purl column
- **Column D:** 4-st rope cable (C6F used on Row 5)
- **Column E:** 2-st purl column
- **Column F:** 12-st centre cable (C8F Row 3, C8B Row 7)
- **Column G:** 2-st purl column
- **Column H:** 4-st rope cable
- **Column I:** 2-st purl column
- **Column J:** 2-st travelling twist (1/1R)
- **Column K:** 1 knit stitch (selvedge)

When a panel abuts another panel (as in continuous edge-to-edge cabling), the right-edge K1 of one panel and the left-edge Sl1K + 1/1L of the next panel together read as a continuous twist sequence. This creates the illusion of the cable motifs flowing without seams across the full width of a piece.

---

### C. Multi-Panel Layout and Partial Motifs

**Full panels:** Each 34-stitch block = 3.25 in (8.25 cm).

**Stitch counts per size** are designed so each piece accommodates a number of full 34-stitch panels plus a defined partial motif at each side edge to maintain continuity.

**Partial Motif Rule:** When stitches at an edge are insufficient for a full panel, work the cable elements in sequence from the selvedge inward — twist, purl column, 4-st rope, purl column — stopping where the stitch count ends. Never substitute reverse stockinette. On WS rows, work each partial element as it appears (purls over knits, knits over purls) exactly as established.

---

### D. Reading WS Rows

WS rows are always worked as Row 2 of the cable pattern (or its partial equivalent):
- All stitches that were knitted on the RS are purled on the WS.
- All stitches that were purled on the RS are knitted on the WS.
- Cable crossings are never worked on WS rows in this pattern.

---

### E. Colourwork Note

*This pattern does not include colourwork or Fair Isle. All pieces are worked in a single colour.*

---

## STITCH COUNT REFERENCE TABLE

All stitch counts are derived using the gauge ratio of **34 sts = 3.25 in** and then refined to accommodate full or partial cable modules. Back pieces are worked to full width; Front pieces are each approximately half the Back width.

| Piece | Size S | Size M | Size L |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Back — cast-on** | 188 sts | 210 sts | 230 sts |
| **Back — finished width** | 46 cm / 18 in | 51 cm / 20 in | 56 cm / 22 in |
| **Each Front — cast-on** | 94 sts | 105 sts | 115 sts |
| **Sleeve — cuff cast-on** | 68 sts | 76 sts | 84 sts |
| **Sleeve — upper arm** | 126 sts | 138 sts | 150 sts |

> **Math check (Size S Back):** 188 ÷ 10.46 = 17.97 in ≈ 18 in ✅
> **Math check (Size M Back):** 210 ÷ 10.46 = 20.07 in ≈ 20 in ✅
> **Math check (Size L Back):** 230 ÷ 10.46 = 21.99 in ≈ 22 in ✅

---

## PANEL LAYOUT PER PIECE

### Back

| Size | Total Sts | Full Panels (×34) | Remainder (partial sts each side) |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 188 | 5 full panels = 170 sts | 18 sts rem → 9 sts partial motif each side |
| M | 210 | 6 full panels = 204 sts | 6 sts rem → 3 sts partial motif each side |
| L | 230 | 6 full panels = 204 sts | 26 sts rem → 13 sts partial motif each side |

### Each Front

| Size | Total Sts | Full Panels (×34) | Remainder |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 94 sts | 2 full panels = 68 sts | 26 sts rem → worked as one partial motif at outer edge |
| M | 105 sts | 3 full panels = 102 sts | 3 sts rem → 3-st partial at outer edge |
| L | 115 sts | 3 full panels = 102 sts | 13 sts rem → 13-st partial at outer edge |

### Sleeve (upper arm, fully cabled)

| Size | Total Sts | Full Panels (×34) | Remainder |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 126 sts | 3 full panels = 102 sts | 24 sts rem → 12-st partial motif each side |
| M | 138 sts | 4 full panels = 136 sts | 2 sts rem → 1-st partial each side |
| L | 150 sts | 4 full panels = 136 sts | 14 sts rem → 7-st partial each side |

---

## PARTIAL MOTIF REFERENCE

Work partial motifs by entering the cable element sequence from the outer edge inward. Use the following guide for stitches appearing at the side/outer edge of a piece on RS rows. The WS mirror is always: knit the purls, purl the knits, no crossings.

| Partial sts available | Elements to work (RS) |
|---|---|
| 1 st | Sl1K wyib |
| 2 sts | Sl1K wyib, k1 |
| 3 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L (= 2 sts twist), [then at mirrored right edge: 1/1R, k1] |
| 4 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2 |
| 5 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k1 |
| 6 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k2 |
| 7 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k3 |
| 8 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4 |
| 9 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p1 |
| 10 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2 |
| 11 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k1 |
| 12 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k2 |
| 13 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k3 |
| 14 sts | Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4 (= Cols A–D complete) |
| 26 sts (Size S Front outer edge) | Work Cols A–I: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k1 |

> **Note on Cable Crossings in Partial Motifs:** Work cable crossings (C6F, C8F, C8B) on their designated rows only when the full number of stitches for that crossing are present. If a partial motif contains only 2 or 3 of the 4 stitches of a rope, work those stitches plain (k) on cable rows; the crossing will develop once full stitches are available (relevant mainly to sleeve increases). The 1/1 twists at the outer edge (Columns B and J) are always worked as written.

---

## BACK

### Rib Hem

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on **188 (210, 230) sts** using a long-tail or cable cast-on.

**Rib Row 1 (RS):** \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.
**Rib Row 2 (WS):** \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.

Rep Rib Rows 1–2 until hem measures **4 cm (1.5 in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Cable Pattern

Change to 4 mm needles.

**Set-Up Row (RS):** Work the cable panel layout for your size across all stitches as follows:

**Size S (188 sts):**
Begin with a **9-stitch partial motif** at the left edge (reading right to left on RS, so these appear at the right edge of your needle): Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p1 — then work **5 full 34-st panels** — then end with a **9-stitch partial motif** mirrored at the right edge: p1, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1.

> **Explanation:** The partial 9-stitch motif at each side contains Columns A + B + C + D + one purl. The two 9-stitch partials (9 + 9 = 18) + 5 × 34 = 18 + 170 = **188 sts** ✅

**Size M (210 sts):**
Begin with a **3-stitch partial motif** at the left edge: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L — then work **6 full 34-st panels** — then end with a **3-stitch partial motif** mirrored: 1/1R, k1. Note: on the very first stitch the slip stitch serves as selvedge.

> **Explanation:** 3 + (6 × 34) + 3 = 3 + 204 + 3 = **210 sts** ✅

**Size L (230 sts):**
Begin with a **13-stitch partial motif** at the left edge: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k3 — then work **6 full 34-st panels** — then end with a **13-stitch partial motif** mirrored: k3, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1.

> **Explanation:** 13 + (6 × 34) + 13 = 13 + 204 + 13 = **230 sts** ✅

**Continuing the Pattern:**

Continue working all stitches in cable pattern as established, working RS rows as set and WS rows as the Row 2 mirror of each element (knit over purl columns, purl over knit columns). Cable crossings occur on Rows 3, 5, and 7 of the repeat only.

Work cable pattern until Back measures **28 cm (11 in)** from cast-on edge (including rib), ending with a WS row. *This is approximately 72 rows of cable pattern after the rib.*

### Armhole (Drop Shoulder — No Shaping)

Drop-shoulder construction requires no armhole shaping. Continue working straight in cable pattern until Back measures **46 cm (18 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. *Approx. 144 rows of cable pattern total above rib.*

### Neck and Shoulder Shaping

**Divide for Neck:**

On the next RS row, work across **66 (75, 83) sts** in pattern, cast off centre **56 (60, 64) sts** for neck, work remaining **66 (75, 83) sts** in pattern.

> **Cast-off check (S):** 66 + 56 + 66 = **188 sts** ✅
> **Cast-off check (M):** 75 + 60 + 75 = **210 sts** ✅
> **Cast-off check (L):** 83 + 64 + 83 = **230 sts** ✅

Work each shoulder separately.

**Left Shoulder:**
Working on 66 (75, 83) sts, cast off **22 (25, 27) sts** at the beginning of the next 3 WS rows. (All sts cast off.)

> **Check (S):** 22 × 3 = 66 sts ✅
> **Check (M):** 25 × 3 = 75 sts ✅
> **Check (L):** 27 × 3 = 81 sts (need 83) — adjust: cast off 27, 28, 28. ✅

**Right Shoulder:**
Rejoin yarn at neck edge on WS. Cast off **22 (25, 27) sts** at the beginning of the next 3 RS rows.

*(Size L: cast off 27, 28, 28 as above.)*

---

## LEFT FRONT

### Rib Hem

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on **94 (105, 115) sts**.

Work 1×1 rib as for Back until hem measures **4 cm (1.5 in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Cable Pattern

Change to 4 mm needles.

The **Left Front** is worn on the wearer's left side. The **outer/side edge** is at the right of the needle on RS rows; the **centre-front (button band) edge** is at the left of the needle on RS rows.

**Size S Left Front (94 sts):**
The outer edge begins with a full panel (reading from the right of the needle on RS). Work **2 full 34-stitch panels** (= 68 sts), then work the remaining **26 sts** as the **partial motif at the centre-front edge**: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k1.

> **Explanation:** 68 + 26 = **94 sts** ✅
>
> The 26-stitch partial at the centre front contains: Col A (1) + Col B (2) + Col C (2) + Col D (4) + Col E (2) + Col F partial (12) + Col G (2) + k1 = 26 sts.
> The very last stitch (k1) is a clean selvedge at the button-band edge.

**Size M Left Front (105 sts):**
Work **3 full 34-stitch panels** (= 102 sts), then work the remaining **3 sts** as the partial motif at the centre-front edge: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L (= 1/1L is 2 sts, plus Sl1K = 3 sts total).

> **Explanation:** 102 + 3 = **105 sts** ✅

**Size L Left Front (115 sts):**
Work **3 full 34-stitch panels** (= 102 sts), then work the remaining **13 sts** as the partial motif at the centre-front edge: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k3.

> **Explanation:** 102 + 13 = **115 sts** ✅

Continue working straight in cable pattern as established until Left Front measures **38 cm (15 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a RS row.

### Neck Shaping

At the beginning of the next WS row (neck/centre-front edge), begin shaping the crew neck:

**Cast off at neck edge (centre-front edge, beg of WS rows):**
- Cast off **14 (16, 18) sts** once.
- Then dec 1 st at neck edge on every RS row **8 (8, 8) times** by working ssk at the neck edge on RS rows (or k2tog, depending on edge direction — see note below).

> **Neck decrease note:** On RS rows for the Left Front, the neck edge is at the left end of the row. Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (or ssk as preferred for left-leaning slant). Work all decreases maintaining cable pattern on remaining sts.

After neck shaping:
- Remaining shoulder sts: 94 − 14 − 8 = **72 (105 − 16 − 8 = 81, 115 − 18 − 8 = 89)** sts.

> **Adjusted for shoulder cast-off width:** The shoulder sts must match the Back shoulder. Target shoulder sts = 66 (75, 83).
>
> **Revised neck shaping:**
> - S: Cast off 14 sts once, then dec 1 st at neck edge on RS rows 14 times. 94 − 14 − 14 = **66 sts** ✅
> - M: Cast off 16 sts once, then dec 1 st at neck edge on RS rows 14 times. 105 − 16 − 14 = **75 sts** ✅
> - L: Cast off 18 sts once, then dec 1 st at neck edge on RS rows 14 times. 115 − 18 − 14 = **83 sts** ✅

Continue straight (no more neck shaping) until Left Front measures **46 cm (18 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

### Shoulder Cast-Off

Cast off **22 (25, 27) sts** at the beginning of the next 3 RS rows.
*(Size L: cast off 27, 28, 28 as for Back.)*

---

## RIGHT FRONT

### Rib Hem

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on **94 (105, 115) sts**.

Work 1×1 rib until hem measures **4 cm (1.5 in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Cable Pattern

Change to 4 mm needles.

The **Right Front** is a mirror image of the Left Front. The **centre-front edge** is at the right of the needle on RS rows; the **outer/side edge** is at the left.

**Size S Right Front (94 sts):**
Begin at the centre-front edge (right of needle on RS): work the **26-st partial motif** as the mirror of the Left Front partial — k1, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1 — then work **2 full 34-stitch panels** to the side edge.

> The 26-st Right Front partial mirrors the Left Front partial: k1 (selvedge at CF edge) + p2 + k12 + p2 + k4 + p2 + 1/1R + k1 = 1+2+12+2+4+2+2+1 = **26 sts** ✅

**Size M Right Front (105 sts):**
Begin at the centre-front edge: work the **3-st mirror partial** (k1, 1/1R — but note 1/1R is 2 sts — so k1, 1/1R = 3 sts), then work **3 full 34-st panels**.

**Size L Right Front (115 sts):**
Begin at the centre-front edge: work the **13-st mirror partial** (k3, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1 = 3+2+4+2+2+1 = **14 sts**).

> **Correction for Size L Right Front:** 13-st partial mirror should be: k2, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1 = 2+2+4+2+2+1 = 13 sts ✅ Then work 3 full panels: 13 + 102 = 115 ✅

Continue in cable pattern as established, matching the Left Front in length and neck shaping, but mirroring all shaping to the opposite edge:

### Neck Shaping (Right Front)

At the beginning of the next RS row (neck/centre-front edge), begin shaping:

- Cast off **14 (16, 18) sts** at neck edge (beg of RS row) once.
- Then dec 1 st at neck edge on every RS row **14 times**: work k1, ssk at the beginning of RS rows (right-leaning decrease at CF neck edge).

Remaining sts after shaping: **66 (75, 83) sts** ✅

Continue straight until Right Front matches Left Front in total length. End with a RS row.

### Shoulder Cast-Off

Cast off **22 (25, 27) sts** at the beginning of the next 3 WS rows.
*(Size L: 27, 28, 28.)*

---

## SLEEVES (MAKE 2)

### Cuff Ribbing

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on **68 (76, 84) sts**.

Work 1×1 rib until cuff measures **5 cm (2 in)**, ending with a WS row.

### Establish Cable Pattern and Begin Increases

Change to 4 mm needles.

The sleeve is knitted with continuous cables across its entire width. Stitches increased at each end must be integrated into the cable pattern immediately.

**Set-Up Row — Cuff Cable Layout:**

The cuff cast-on is sized to accommodate a specific number of full/partial cable modules:

| Size | Cuff sts | Full Panels | Remainder | Partial each side |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 68 | 2 × 34 = 68 | 0 | 0 (2 exact full panels) |
| M | 76 | 2 × 34 = 68 | 8 | 4 sts partial each side |
| L | 84 | 2 × 34 = 68 | 16 | 8 sts partial each side |

**Size S Cuff (68 sts):** Work **2 full 34-stitch panels** across all sts.

**Size M Cuff (76 sts):** Work **4-st partial motif** at left edge (Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k1) + **2 full 34-stitch panels** + **4-st mirrored partial** at right edge (k1, p2, 1/1R, k1). *(4 + 68 + 4 = 76 sts* ✅*)*

**Size L Cuff (84 sts):** Work **8-st partial motif** at left edge (Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4) + **2 full 34-stitch panels** + **8-st mirrored partial** at right edge (k4, p2, 1/1R, k1). *(8 + 68 + 8 = 84 sts* ✅*)*

### Sleeve Increases

Increases are worked at each end of the row, every **8th row**, until the total stitch count reaches **126 (138, 150) sts**.

Total sts to increase:
- **S:** 126 − 68 = 58 sts total / 2 = **29 increases each end** = 29 increase rows.
- **M:** 138 − 76 = 62 sts total / 2 = **31 increases each end** = 31 increase rows.
- **L:** 150 − 84 = 66 sts total / 2 = **33 increases each end** = 33 increase rows.

**Increase Row (RS):** M1L, work in cable pattern to last st, M1R, k1.

*(The final k1 before M1R ensures the new stitch is incorporated cleanly.)*

**Integrating Increases into Cable Pattern:**

After working the increase, assess how many new stitches you have at each edge and refer to the **Partial Motif Reference table** above. Immediately begin working the new stitches as the next element of a new partial cable module. Increase two stitches at a time means your partial motif grows by one stitch per side per increase row.

*Example (Size S, starting with 2 exact full panels = 68 sts):*
- After **increase row 1** (70 sts): 1 new st each side → 1-st partial motifs appear: Sl1K wyib at left edge, k1 at right edge — before and after the 2 full panels.
- After **increase row 2** (72 sts): 2-st partials: Sl1K wyib, k1 at left / k1, k1 at right.
- After **increase row 3** (74 sts): 3-st partials: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L / 1/1R, k1 at each side.
- After **increase row 4** (76 sts): 4-st partials: Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2 / p2, 1/1R, k1.
- After **increase row 8** (84 sts): 8-st partials = Cols A+B+C+D present → k4 rope begins.
- After **increase row 10** (88 sts): 10-st partials = Cols A–E fully established → p2 after rope.
- Continue until at 17 new sts per side (increase row 17, total 102 sts): 17-st partial = Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k8 — the centre cable is beginning to form. The C8F/C8B crossings on Rows 3 and 7 are worked on the centre 12 sts once those 12 sts are fully present.
- At **increase row 29** (Size S): all sts are present; you now have 3 full panels or a clean partial arrangement totalling 126 sts.

> **Cable Crossings During Increases:** Work a crossing only when all stitches involved in that crossing are present. A C6F crossing requires all 6 sts to exist; a partially formed rope (e.g., 3 sts of a 4-st rope) is worked plain until the 4th stitch arrives via an increase.

**Increase Schedule Summary:**

| Size | Increase every | Total increase rows | Rows worked (approx.) | Resulting sleeve length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | Row 8 | 29 rows | 232 rows cable above rib | 29 cm (11.5 in) increases + 14 cm (5.5 in) straight = **43 cm (17 in) above rib** |
| M | Row 8 | 31 rows | 248 rows | **48 cm (19 in) above rib** — work fewer straight rows to match target |
| L | Row 8 | 33 rows | 264 rows | straight section adjusted accordingly |

> **Designer's Note on Sleeve Length:** After all increases are complete, work straight until sleeve measures **44 (46, 47) cm (17.5, 18, 18.5 in)** from cast-on edge including rib. End with a WS row, then cast off all **126 (138, 150) sts** in pattern.

**Final Sleeve Cast-Off:** Cast off all sts on a RS row, maintaining cable pattern (work cables as written; cast off as you go).

---

## MAKING UP

### Blocking

Before seaming, wet block all pieces:
1. Soak pieces in cool water for 20 minutes.
2. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring).
3. Lay flat on a blocking mat; pin to measurements in the size chart.
4. Allow to dry completely. Cable pattern will bloom and even out.

### Seaming

1. **Shoulder Seams:** With RS together, join Back to Left Front and Right Front at shoulders using mattress stitch or three-needle cast-off.

2. **Sleeve Attachment:** Fold sleeve in half lengthwise and mark the centre top of the sleeve cap (the cast-off edge). Pin this to the shoulder seam. The sleeve top edge spans **12 (13.5, 14.5) cm (4.75, 5.25, 5.75 in)** either side of the shoulder seam along the Back and Front armhole edge. Pin sleeve into place and seam using mattress stitch, maintaining the cable continuity as closely as possible at the join.

3. **Side Seams:** With RS together, join Back to Front pieces using mattress stitch from hem to underarm.

4. **Sleeve Seams:** Join sleeve seams from underarm to cuff using mattress stitch.

---

## BUTTON BANDS

### Left Front Band (Buttonhole Band — adjust if mirroring)

With 3.5 mm needles and RS facing, pick up and knit stitches along the Left Front centre-front edge.

**Pick-up ratio:** Pick up **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the edge (this is the standard ratio for cable fabric, which is denser than stockinette).

*Approximate pick-up count:* The front edge is **46 cm (18 in)** long = approx. 144 rows of cable pattern + 13 rows of rib = 157 rows total. Using 3:4 ratio → pick up approximately **118 sts** (adjust to an even number for 1×1 rib).

**Row 1 (WS):** \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.
**Row 2 (RS):** \*k1, p1; rep from \* to end.

Continue 1×1 rib until band measures **2 cm (0.75 in)**, ending with a WS row.

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Place **5 (5, 6)** evenly spaced buttonholes as follows: \*rib to buttonhole position, yo, k2tog; rep from \* for each buttonhole.

*Buttonhole spacing:* Divide the pick-up count evenly between buttonholes. Place the first buttonhole approximately 1 cm (0.5 in) from the bottom edge and the last approximately 1 cm (0.5 in) from the neck edge.

Continue in 1×1 rib for a further **1.5 cm (0.5 in)** after buttonhole row.

Cast off loosely in rib.

### Right Front Band (Button Band)

Work as for Left Front Band, omitting buttonholes.

---

## NECKBAND

With 3.5 mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front top edge, pick up and knit stitches around the neck opening as follows:

- Along Right Front neck shaping (diagonal): approximately **28 sts**
- Across Back neck cast-off: **56 (60, 64) sts**
- Along Left Front neck shaping (diagonal): approximately **28 sts**
- **Total:** approximately **112 (116, 120) sts** (adjust to even number for 1×1 rib)

Work in 1×1 rib for **2.5 cm (1 in)**.

Cast off loosely in rib.

---

## FINISHING DETAILS

1. Weave in all ends using a tapestry needle, threading ends along column of purl stitches between cable ropes where possible.
2. Sew buttons to the button band (non-buttonhole side), aligning with buttonholes.
3. Steam-press seams lightly under a damp cloth — do not press directly onto cables (this will flatten them).

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK
┌────────────────────────────┐  ← 46 cm (18 in) / 51 cm (20 in) / 56 cm (22 in) wide
│                            │
│       (cable fabric)       │ ← 46 cm (18 in) tall
│                            │
└────────────────────────────┘

EACH FRONT
┌──────────────┐  ← 23 cm (9 in) / 25.5 cm (10 in) / 27.5 cm (10.75 in) wide
│              │
│  (cables)    │ ← 46 cm (18 in) tall
│              │
└──────────────┘

SLEEVE
        ┌──────────────────────────┐  ← 30 cm (11.75 in) / 33 cm (13 in) / 36 cm (14.25 in) upper arm width
       /                            \
      /         (cables)             \
     /                                \
    └──────────────────────────────────┘  ← 16 cm (6.25 in) / 18 cm (7 in) / 20 cm (7.75 in) cuff width
```

*All measurements are after blocking.*

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

- Hand wash in cool water with wool wash.
- Lay flat to dry.
- Do not tumble dry or hang (the weight of the cables may stretch the garment).
- Steam blocking once per season refreshes the cable definition.

---

## QUICK REFERENCE — CABLE PATTERN ROWS

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1P wyif, p2, k2, p4, k2, p12, k2, p4, k2, p3.
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1.
**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 5 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, C6F, p2, k12, p2, C6F, p2, 1/1R, k1.
**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 7 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, C8B, k4, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R, k1.
**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2.

Rep Rows 1–8 throughout.

---

*© Custom Knitting Project — For personal use only. Not for redistribution.*