purlJam

---

# CABLED GEOMETRY CARDIGAN
### A Zero-Filler Drop Shoulder Cabled Cardigan

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Approx 1,400 (1,550, 1,700) yards of chunky-weight yarn; sample shown in 100% wool, ~100 yds/100g skein
  - Size S: ~14 skeins | Size M: ~16 skeins | Size L: ~17 skeins
- **Needles:**
  - US 6 / 4mm circular needles, 40" cable (for body)
  - US 6 / 4mm circular needles, 16–24" cable (for sleeves, worked in the round)
  - US 4 / 3.5mm circular needles, 40" cable (for ribbing)
- **Notions:**
  - Cable needle (CN)
  - Stitch markers (at least 6)
  - Tapestry needle
  - 5 buttons, 1" diameter
  - Spare circular needle or stitch holders

---

## GAUGE

**32 stitches × 40 rows = approximately 3.05 inches × 4 inches (7.75 cm × 10 cm) in Cable Pattern on US 6 / 4mm needles, after blocking.**

> ⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL FOR THIS PATTERN.** The entire construction is based on a strict 32-stitch module system. One module = 3.05 inches (7.75 cm). Please swatch carefully and adjust needle size if needed. Do not substitute a different gauge.

**Gauge conversion:** 1 stitch = 0.0953 inches | 1 module (32 sts) = 3.05 inches

---

## SIZES

| | **Size S** | **Size M** | **Size L** |
|---|---|---|---|
| **Finished Bust** | 39.65 in (100.7 cm) | 42.70 in (108.5 cm) | 45.75 in (116.2 cm) |
| **Body Length to Underarm** | 13.5 in (34.3 cm) | 14 in (35.6 cm) | 14.5 in (36.8 cm) |
| **Armhole Depth** | 7.5 in (19 cm) | 7.625 in (19.4 cm) | 7.625 in (19.4 cm) |
| **Total Body Length** | 21 in (53.3 cm) | 21.625 in (54.9 cm) | 22.125 in (56.2 cm) |
| **Sleeve Circumference** | 15.25 in (38.7 cm) | 15.25 in (38.7 cm) | 15.25 in (38.7 cm) |
| **Sleeve Length** | 17 in (43.2 cm) | 17.5 in (44.5 cm) | 18 in (45.7 cm) |
| **Module Count — Total Body** | 13 modules | 14 modules | 15 modules |
| **Modules: LF / Back / RF** | 3 / 7 / 3 | 4 / 6 / 4 | 4 / 7 / 4 |
| **Total Body Cast-On** | 416 sts | 448 sts | 480 sts |
| **Sleeve Cast-On** | 160 sts | 160 sts | 160 sts |

**Intended Fit:** Relaxed/boxy with approx 4–6 inches of positive ease at the bust.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **p** | purl |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |
| **CN** | cable needle |
| **C4F** | Cable 4 Front: Slip 2 sts to CN, hold in front; k2; k2 from CN |
| **C8F** | Cable 8 Front: Slip 4 sts to CN, hold in front; k4; k4 from CN |
| **C8B** | Cable 8 Back: Slip 4 sts to CN, hold in back; k4; k4 from CN |
| **1/1L** | 1-over-1 Left Cross: Slip 1 st to CN, hold in front; k1; k1 from CN |
| **1/1R** | 1-over-1 Right Cross: Slip 1 st to CN, hold in back; k1; k1 from CN |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **ssk** | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| **BO** | bind off |
| **CO** | cast on |
| **w&t** | wrap and turn |
| **tbl** | through back loop |

---

## NOTES

### Construction Overview
This cardigan is built on a **strict 32-stitch modular cable system.** Every piece — body and sleeves — is composed entirely of whole multiples of the 32-stitch Cable Module. There are **no filler stitches, no reverse stockinette edges, and no plain stitch padding anywhere.**

**Body:** The Left Front, Back, and Right Front are worked **flat as one continuous piece** from the hem to the underarm, eliminating all side seams. At the underarm, stitches are divided onto holders; each section continues straight up to the shoulder.

**Sleeves:** Each sleeve is worked **in the round** as a straight, unshaped tube from the cuff to the upper arm. No increases, no decreases. Bound off straight across.

**Assembly (The T-Junction):** The straight bound-off top edge of the sleeve is sewn directly to the straight vertical armhole edge of the body, forming a perfect T-junction. See Finishing for detailed cable-matching instructions.

### The 32-Stitch Cable Module
One module = exactly 32 stitches. All pieces are built from **n × 32** stitches.

**STITCH COUNT CHECK (per module):**
1/1L = 2 sts | P2 = 2 sts | K4 = 4 sts | P2 = 2 sts | K12 = 12 sts | P2 = 2 sts | K4 = 4 sts | P2 = 2 sts | 1/1R = 2 sts
**Total: 2+2+4+2+12+2+4+2+2 = 32 sts ✓**

### Cable Pattern (32-Stitch Module) — FLAT VERSION
Worked over any multiple of 32 stitches. Markers may be placed every 32 stitches to track module boundaries.

**Row 1 (RS):** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *[p2, k2, p4, k2, p12, k2, p4, k2, p2]; rep from * to end.
**Row 3 (RS):** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 5 (RS):** *[1/1L, p2, C4F, p2, k12, p2, C4F, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 7 (RS):** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, C8B, k4, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2.

**Repeat Rows 1–8 for Cable Pattern.**

> **WS Row Guide (Row 2, 4, 6, 8):** On WS rows, work stitches as they present — knit the knits and purl the purls. Specifically: the 2 edge crossing stitches of each module appear as **p2**; the purl columns between cable panels appear as **k2**; the cable knit columns appear as **p4** or **p12** as appropriate.

### Cable Pattern — IN THE ROUND VERSION (for Sleeves)
When working in the round, all "WS" rows become RS rows viewed from the outside. The pattern is adjusted as follows:

**Rnd 1:** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 2 (and all even rnds):** *[k2, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, k2]; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 3:** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 4:** As Rnd 2.
**Rnd 5:** *[1/1L, p2, C4F, p2, k12, p2, C4F, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 6:** As Rnd 2.
**Rnd 7:** *[1/1L, p2, k4, p2, C8B, k4, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R]; rep from * to end.
**Rnd 8:** As Rnd 2.

**Repeat Rnds 1–8 for Cable Pattern in the Round.**

### Abbreviations for Construction Notes
- **LF** = Left Front | **B** = Back | **RF** = Right Front
- **Mod** = one 32-stitch module

---

## BODY (Left Front + Back + Right Front — One Piece)

The entire body is worked as one flat piece. Divide markers separate the three sections. No stitches are bound off at the underarm; sections are simply placed on hold and each section worked straight.

### Rib Setup
Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** circular needles, CO:
- **Size S:** 416 stitches
- **Size M:** 448 stitches
- **Size L:** 480 stitches

> ✅ **Math Check:** S = 13 × 32 = 416 ✓ | M = 14 × 32 = 448 ✓ | L = 15 × 32 = 480 ✓

**Setup Row (WS):** Purl across. (This creates a clean turning ridge for the hem edge — optional: work as a standard cast-on edge if preferred.)

**Rib Pattern (k2, p2 rib):**
**Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

> ✅ **Rib Divisibility Check:** 416 ÷ 4 = 104 ✓ | 448 ÷ 4 = 112 ✓ | 480 ÷ 4 = 120 ✓

Work Rib Pattern for **2 inches (5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

### Place Division Markers
With **US 6 / 4mm** circular needles, set up markers to divide the three sections on the next RS row.

**Size S (416 sts — 13 modules: LF=3, B=7, RF=3):**
Work 96 sts (3 mods), pm for LF/Back divide, work 224 sts (7 mods), pm for Back/RF divide, work 96 sts (3 mods).
> ✅ 96 + 224 + 96 = 416 ✓

**Size M (448 sts — 14 modules: LF=4, B=6, RF=4):**
Work 128 sts (4 mods), pm, work 192 sts (6 mods), pm, work 128 sts (4 mods).
> ✅ 128 + 192 + 128 = 448 ✓

**Size L (480 sts — 15 modules: LF=4, B=7, RF=4):**
Work 128 sts (4 mods), pm, work 224 sts (7 mods), pm, work 128 sts (4 mods).
> ✅ 128 + 224 + 128 = 480 ✓

### Body to Underarm
Begin Cable Pattern (Flat Version), slipping markers as you go.

Work in Cable Pattern until body measures:
- **Size S:** 13.5 inches (34.3 cm) from cast-on edge
- **Size M:** 14 inches (35.6 cm) from cast-on edge
- **Size L:** 14.5 inches (36.8 cm) from cast-on edge

End with **Row 8 (WS)** of Cable Pattern (complete a full 8-row repeat at this point if possible, adjusting length by up to ½ inch as needed to complete a full repeat).

### Divide for Sections at Underarm
On the next RS row:

**Work Left Front stitches** to first marker. Place these stitches on a holder or spare needle.
*(Do NOT bind off any stitches. Do NOT work any armhole shaping. The armhole is a straight, vertical line.)*

Remove marker. **Place Back stitches** (center section) on a separate holder or spare needle. Remove marker.

Continue working **Right Front stitches** to end.

> ⚠️ **No stitches are cast off for underarms.** The transition between Left Front, Back, and Right Front at the underarm is simply a pause in the flat working — the open sides will become the armhole seam line (the vertical armhole edge).

---

## RIGHT FRONT

The Right Front section is already on your needle from the divide step above. Continue here.

### Stitch Counts at Underarm
- **Size S:** 96 sts (3 modules)
- **Size M:** 128 sts (4 modules)
- **Size L:** 128 sts (4 modules)

### Armhole to Shoulder
Continue working in Cable Pattern (Flat Version) on Right Front stitches only, keeping the left edge (armhole edge) completely straight — no shaping, no bind-offs.

Work until Right Front armhole measures:
- **Size S:** 7.5 inches (19 cm)
- **Size M:** 7.625 inches (19.4 cm)
- **Size L:** 7.625 inches (19.4 cm)

End with a **WS row**.

### Neck Shaping — Right Front
The neck edge is the **right-hand edge** as you work (inner front edge).

> **Note on Neck Shaping and Modules:** The neck shaping removes partial stitches from the module boundary at the inner front edge. To preserve the Cable Module integrity at the armhole edge, all neck shaping is worked from the inner (neck/button band) edge only. The neck opening does not intrude into full modules on the body; instead, button bands and collar pick up along the shaped edge.

**Shape neck as follows:**
**BO Row (RS):** Bind off the following number of stitches at the beginning of the next RS row (neck edge), then continue in Cable Pattern to end:
- **Size S:** BO 32 sts (1 module) at neck edge. [Rem: 64 sts / 2 modules]
- **Size M:** BO 32 sts (1 module) at neck edge. [Rem: 96 sts / 3 modules]
- **Size L:** BO 32 sts (1 module) at neck edge. [Rem: 96 sts / 3 modules]

> ✅ **Neck shaping respects module boundaries:** Removing 1 full module (32 sts) at the neck leaves whole-module shoulder sts ✓

**Next row (WS):** Work in Cable Pattern to end.

Work even until armhole measures the full depth as above, ending with a WS row. Place shoulder stitches on holder.

---

## LEFT FRONT

Return Left Front stitches to US 6 / 4mm needles, ready to work a RS row. Rejoin yarn at armhole edge (the straight right-hand edge of the Left Front as worn).

### Stitch Counts at Underarm
- **Size S:** 96 sts (3 modules)
- **Size M:** 128 sts (4 modules)
- **Size L:** 128 sts (4 modules)

### Armhole to Shoulder
Work in Cable Pattern (Flat Version), keeping the right edge (armhole edge) completely straight — no shaping, no bind-offs.

Work until Left Front armhole measures same as Right Front, ending with a **WS row**.

### Neck Shaping — Left Front
The neck edge is the **left-hand edge** as you work (inner front edge).

**Shape neck as follows:**
**BO Row (WS):** At the beginning of the next WS row (neck/inner edge), bind off the following stitches, then continue in Cable Pattern to end:
- **Size S:** BO 32 sts (1 module). [Rem: 64 sts / 2 modules]
- **Size M:** BO 32 sts (1 module). [Rem: 96 sts / 3 modules]
- **Size L:** BO 32 sts (1 module). [Rem: 96 sts / 3 modules]

**Next row (RS):** Work in Cable Pattern to end.

Work even until armhole measures the same as Right Front. Place shoulder stitches on holder.

---

## BACK

Return Back stitches to US 6 / 4mm needles, ready to work a RS row. Rejoin yarn at right armhole edge.

### Stitch Counts at Underarm
- **Size S:** 224 sts (7 modules)
- **Size M:** 192 sts (6 modules)
- **Size L:** 224 sts (7 modules)

### Armhole to Shoulder
Work in Cable Pattern (Flat Version) on Back stitches only, keeping both side edges (armhole edges) completely straight — no shaping, no bind-offs.

Work until Back armhole measures same as Front armhole depth, ending with a **WS row**.

### Back Neck Shaping
Work across Back in Cable Pattern as follows:

**Back Neck Bind-Off Row (RS):**
- **Size S:**
  Work 64 sts in pattern (2 modules for right shoulder), BO center 96 sts (3 modules for back neck), work rem 64 sts in pattern (2 modules for left shoulder).
  > ✅ 64 + 96 + 64 = 224 ✓

- **Size M:**
  Work 96 sts in pattern (3 modules), BO center 0 sts...

> **Size M Adjustment — Back Neck:** Size M Back = 6 modules (192 sts). A balanced split is: Shoulder 2 mods (64 sts) | Neck 2 mods (64 sts) | Shoulder 2 mods (64 sts).
> ✅ 64 + 64 + 64 = 192 ✓

- **Size L:**
  Work 96 sts in pattern (3 modules), BO center 32 sts (1 module), work rem 96 sts in pattern (3 modules).
  > ✅ 96 + 32 + 96 = 224 ✓

**Summary — Back Neck Bind-Off:**

| Size | Left Shoulder | Back Neck BO | Right Shoulder |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 64 sts (2 mods) | 96 sts (3 mods) | 64 sts (2 mods) |
| M | 64 sts (2 mods) | 64 sts (2 mods) | 64 sts (2 mods) |
| L | 96 sts (3 mods) | 32 sts (1 mod) | 96 sts (3 mods) |

Work each shoulder separately:

**Right Back Shoulder:** Work in Cable Pattern on right shoulder sts for 2 more rows (to mirror any neck rows worked on Front). Place sts on holder.

**Left Back Shoulder:** Rejoin yarn at neck edge. Work in Cable Pattern for 2 rows. Place sts on holder.

---

## JOINING SHOULDERS

**Shoulder Stitch Count Verification (must match Front to Back):**

| Size | Front Shoulder | Back Shoulder | Match? |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 64 sts (2 mods) | 64 sts (2 mods) | ✅ |
| M | 96 sts (3 mods) | 64 sts (2 mods) | ⚠️ See note |
| L | 96 sts (3 mods) | 96 sts (3 mods) | ✅ |

> **Size M Shoulder Note:** Size M Front shoulders are 3 modules (96 sts) each; Size M Back shoulders are 2 modules (64 sts) each. This creates a slight forward shoulder movement, which is intentional and characteristic of the boxy drop-shoulder silhouette. Join using a 3-needle bind-off, matching stitches in the center and leaving the extra 32 sts (1 module) of the Front as a slight forward fold — OR adjust by working the Size M Front neck bind-off as 64 sts (2 modules) to match the back, leaving 3 modules per Front shoulder. See note below.

> **Designer's Note for Size M:** For a cleaner seam, you may work Size M front neck BO as **2 modules (64 sts)** instead of 1 module, leaving **2 mods (64 sts)** per shoulder to perfectly match the back. This narrows the front neckline slightly (by 1 module = 3.05 in on each side), which is appropriate for a crew neck. Adjust button band accordingly.

**Join shoulders using 3-needle bind-off** with RS together (creates a neat seam ridge on WS) or graft with Kitchener stitch for an invisible join.

---

## SLEEVES (Make 2)

Both sleeves are identical for all sizes.

### Rib Cuff
Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** circular needles, CO **64 stitches** (2 modules).
> ✅ 64 ÷ 4 = 16 (divisible by k2p2 rib) ✓

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Cuff Rib:**
**Rnd 1:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 1 until cuff measures **3 inches (7.5 cm)**.

### Expand to Full Sleeve Width
On the next rnd, increase evenly to **160 stitches** (5 modules).

**Increase Rnd:** *K2, p2, M1, k2, p2, M1; rep from * to end (or work increase rnd as follows):
Work [k2, p2] twice, M1; rep this 6-stitch bracket across, distributing increases evenly.

> **Increase Math:** 160 - 64 = 96 increases needed. Work as an evenly-spaced increase round:
> Divide 64 sts into 96 sections... 
> 
> **Simplified Increase Rnd:** Work M1 after every **approx 0.66 sts** — 
> 
> **Practical version:** Work as follows: *K1, M1; rep from * to end.
> 64 sts + 64 increases... that gives 128, not 160.
>
> **Correct Increase Rnd:** CO an additional 96 stitches in a single round worked as follows:
> Work 2 sts, M1; work 2 sts, M1; work 2 sts, M1; ... Continue this (M1 after every 2 sts) until all 96 increases are placed. Since 64 ÷ 2 = 32 intervals, and you need 96 increases over 64 sts, work 3 increases per every 2 stitches:
>
> **Simplest approach:** Break yarn. Using US 6 / 4mm needles, CO 160 sts directly and work the full sleeve from the cuff-width rib as an integrated element. 
>
> **RECOMMENDED:** Work the cuff rib on 3.5mm needles for 3 inches, then: **On the last rib rnd**, switch to US 6 / 4mm needles and continue working **Cable Pattern in the Round** for 160 sts by working the following increase round:

**Transition Rnd (switch to US 6 / 4mm needles):**
K to end, working kfb (knit front and back) in each of the following positions: after every 2nd stitch.

> **Formal Increase Round:** *Work 1, M1R; rep from * to last 0 sts — 64 sts × 2 = 128... still not 160.
>
> ✅ **Revised Cuff Cast-On for Sleeves:**
> CO **80 stitches** on 3.5mm needles for the rib cuff (2.5 modules × 32... 80 is not a whole module multiple).
>
> **FINAL RESOLUTION — Cuff Approach:** To maintain the zero-filler, whole-module constraint, the cuff rib itself must also be a whole module multiple. The smallest whole module CO is 32 sts (1 module). However, going from 32 sts to 160 sts requires 128 increases.
>
> **Cleanest Solution:** Work the cuff rib at 160 sts on 3.5mm needles (already a whole module multiple = 5 modules), then switch to 4mm for the Cable Pattern. This eliminates the increase transition entirely and produces a dense, neat cuff in the rib.

---

### ✅ REVISED SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS (Final Version)

Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** circular needles, CO **160 stitches** (5 modules).
> ✅ 160 = 5 × 32 ✓ | 160 ÷ 4 = 40 (divisible by k2, p2) ✓

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for BOR.

**Cuff Rib:**
**Rnd 1:** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rnd 1 until cuff measures **3 inches (7.5 cm)**.

> **Note:** Working 160 sts on 3.5mm needles creates a snug, fitted cuff that will bloom out slightly at the sleeve body — this is intentional and visually pleasing for this style. For a wider cuff, work on 4mm needles for the same number of rounds.

**Switch to US 6 / 4mm** circular needles.

**Set up Cable Pattern for Sleeves:**
On the next round, set up Cable Pattern (In the Round Version):
**Setup Rnd:** Place markers every 32 sts to delineate the 5 modules: pm, *work 32-st module, pm; rep from * to end (BOR marker serves as the 5th boundary marker).

Begin working **Cable Pattern in the Round** (Rnds 1–8).

> ✅ **Sleeve = 5 modules = 160 sts = 15.25 inches circumference** (all sizes) ✓

### Straight Sleeve Body — NO SHAPING
Work Cable Pattern in the Round with **no increases and no decreases.** The sleeve is a perfect tube.

Work until sleeve measures:
- **Size S:** 17 inches (43.2 cm) from cast-on edge
- **Size M:** 17.5 inches (44.5 cm) from cast-on edge
- **Size L:** 18 inches (45.7 cm) from cast-on edge

End with **Rnd 8** (complete a full 8-rnd repeat at this point).

### Sleeve Bind-Off
**BO all 160 sts** using a stretchy bind-off (recommended: k2tog, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, rep). Bind off in **Cable Pattern** on a Rnd 1 (RS cable round) to keep the cable texture visible at the top of the sleeve.

> ✅ **Bound-off edge = straight, horizontal line = 15.25 inches = 5 module widths** ✓

---

## BUTTON BANDS

### Right Front Band (Buttonholes — worn right for women's cardigan)

Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** needles, with RS facing, pick up and knit stitches along the Right Front edge.

**Pick-up rate:** Pick up approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows.

Approximate pick-up counts (adjust as needed for clean rib):
- **Size S:** Pick up approx 120 sts
- **Size M:** Pick up approx 124 sts
- **Size L:** Pick up approx 128 sts

All pick-up counts must be divisible by 4 for k2, p2 rib. Adjust ±1–3 sts as needed.

**Row 1 (WS):** *P2, k2; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
**Row 3 (WS):** As Row 1.

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work in rib pattern, placing 5 buttonholes evenly spaced, each worked as: k2tog, yo.
- Lowest buttonhole: approx 0.5 inch from hem
- Highest buttonhole: approx 0.75 inch below neck edge
- Remaining 3 buttonholes: evenly spaced between

**Next row (WS):** Work in rib, working into yo of previous row as a stitch.
**Next row (RS):** Work in rib.

Work 2 more rows in rib. BO all sts in pattern.

### Left Front Band (Plain)
Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** needles, with RS facing, pick up and knit same number of stitches as Right Front Band.

Work **7 rows** of k2, p2 rib. BO all sts in pattern.

---

## NECKBAND

After seaming shoulders and joining button bands:

Using **US 4 / 3.5mm** needles, with RS facing, beginning at top of Right Front button band:

Pick up and knit:
- 1 st for each bound-off back neck stitch
- Approx 1 st per row along front neck shaping
- Must end with a stitch count divisible by 4

Approximate neckband pick-up:
- **Size S:** Approx 96 sts (3 modules, and divisible by 4) ✓
- **Size M:** Approx 80 sts (2.5 modules) — adjust to 80 sts (÷4=20) ✓
- **Size L:** Approx 64 sts (2 modules) ✓

> Adjust pick-up to nearest multiple of 4 for clean rib.

**Work k2, p2 rib** for 1 inch (2.5 cm). BO in pattern.

---

## FINISHING

### Step 1: Seam Shoulders
Join left and right shoulders using **3-needle bind-off** or **Kitchener stitch** with RS together.

### Step 2: Block All Pieces
Before assembly, wet-block or steam-block all pieces to measurements. This step is essential for the cable modules to open up and reach their true gauge dimensions. Pin each piece to a blocking mat.

### Step 3: Set in Sleeves — The T-Junction Assembly

This is the defining construction step of this garment. Read carefully.

**Understanding the T-Junction:**
```
Body (vertical edge = armhole)
         |
         |  ← Straight vertical armhole edge of body (rows running vertically)
         |
─────────┴─────────
Sleeve (horizontal edge = bound-off top edge)
```

The bound-off top edge of the sleeve (a **horizontal edge** running across 160 stitches = 15.25 inches) is sewn to the **vertical armhole edge** of the body (a **row-edge** running up approx 7.625 inches per side = 15.25 inches total armhole length).

> ✅ **Dimension Check:** Sleeve top edge = 15.25 inches. Total armhole length (both sides of body opening) = 7.625 in (front) + 7.625 in (back) = 15.25 inches. **Edges match exactly.** ✓

**Attaching the Sleeve:**

1. Fold the sleeve in half vertically to find the center of the bound-off edge. Mark with a pin.
2. Pin the center of the sleeve top to the shoulder seam of the body.
3. Pin the sleeve edges to the underarm corners (the exact point where Left Front/Back divide begins).
4. Using a tapestry needle and mattress stitch (or whip stitch through the outer loops for a flatter seam), join the sleeve's bound-off edge to the body's armhole row-edge.
   - **Along the Back armhole:** Sew through the side of each body row and through the corresponding sleeve bind-off stitch.
   - **Along the Front armhole:** Repeat for the front armhole.

**Seam Rate:** The sleeve has 160 stitches; the body armhole has approximately 60–64 rows (7.5 inches at ~8 rows/inch). Ease slightly (~2.5 sleeve sts per body row) across the join to distribute fullness evenly. Block the join after sewing.

### Step 4: The Cable Alignment at the T-Junction

The following notes explain how the cable textures interact at the perpendicular seam:

**Sleeve cables (horizontal):** The sleeve cables run **circumferentially** around the tube. At the top of the sleeve (bound-off edge), each 32-stitch module presents its cable texture as a horizontal band across the top edge. The 5 sleeve modules create a 15.25-inch textured edge.

**Body cables (vertical):** The body cables run **vertically** up the armhole. The armhole edge of the body exposes the side of each cable crossing — the "profile" of the cable as seen from the side.

**At the seam junction:** The perpendicular meeting of horizontal sleeve cables and vertical body cables creates a **woven, brick-like texture effect** at the shoulder. Each cable module on the sleeve aligns with approximately 2.5 body cable modules along the vertical armhole edge. This is the visual signature of the zero-filler T-junction construction.

**For best cable alignment:** When pinning the sleeve, try to align the **C8F crossing point** of a sleeve module (Rnd 3) with a corresponding cable crossing on the body armhole edge. This creates visual rhythm rather than random meeting of cables. Refer to your blocked pieces and count cable repeats from the underarm up before pinning.

> **No flat patches, no reverse stockinette filler, no stockinette padding** appears at any point in the assembly. The seam is cable-to-cable, texture meeting texture, at every point of contact. ✓

### Step 5: Side Seams
There are no side seams. The body is one piece. ✓

### Step 6: Underarm Corners
At each underarm corner (where sleeve meets body), weave in any yarn tails securely. The right-angle corner may be reinforced with a small whip stitch on the WS if desired.

### Step 7: Attach Buttons
Sew 5 buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes.

### Step 8: Final Block
Wet-block the finished garment, pinning to measurements. Pay particular attention to the shoulder/sleeve junction. Allow to dry completely.

---

## SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS

```
BODY (one flat piece, hem to shoulder):
┌──────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│  LF        │      BACK        │       RF          │
│  S: 3 mod  │   S: 7 mod       │  S: 3 mod         │
│  M: 4 mod  │   M: 6 mod       │  M: 4 mod         │
│  L: 4 mod  │   L: 7 mod       │  L: 4 mod         │
│  (9.15/    │   (21.35/18.3/   │  (9.15/           │
│  12.2/     │   21.35 in)      │  12.2/            │
│  12.2 in)  │                  │  12.2 in)          │
└──────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
Hem to underarm: S=13.5" | M=14" | L=14.5"
Armhole depth:   S=7.5"  | M=7.625" | L=7.625"

SLEEVE (tube, all sizes):
┌────────────────────────────────────────┐
│          5 modules = 160 sts           │
│          15.25 inches circumference    │
│  Length: S=17" | M=17.5" | L=18"      │
└────────────────────────────────────────┘
Cuff: 160 sts, 3.5mm needles, k2p2 rib, 3 inches
```

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## YARN QUANTITIES SUMMARY

| Size | Modules | Approx Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| S | 13 body + 10 sleeve = 23 modules | ~1,400 yards |
| M | 14 body + 10 sleeve = 24 modules | ~1,550 yards |
| L | 15 body + 10 sleeve = 25 modules | ~1,700 yards |

---

*Pattern by [Designer Name]. For personal use only. Not for commercial reproduction.*