purlJam

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# CROPPED CABLED CARDIGAN
### *Edge-to-Edge Cable Construction — Drop Shoulder, Button Front*

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Chunky / Aran-weight yarn (the dense 4 mm gauge produces a firm, structured fabric). Recommended fibre: 100% wool or wool-blend for best stitch definition and blocking. Select a smooth, plied yarn for cable clarity.

- **Size S:** approximately 950–1,100 metres (1,040–1,200 yards)
- **Size M:** approximately 1,100–1,300 metres (1,200–1,420 yards)
- **Size L:** approximately 1,300–1,500 metres (1,420–1,640 yards)

**Needles:**
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) straight or circular needles, 80 cm (32 in) length — for all main fabric
- 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) needles — for all 1×1 ribbing (hems, cuffs, button bands)
- Cable needle (cn)

**Notions:**
- 5 buttons, approximately 18–22 mm (¾–⅞ in) diameter
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Blocking pins and mat

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**Critical:** This pattern is based on an exact blocked swatch measurement. Do not substitute needle sizes or yarn weight without re-swatching.

> **34 stitches** in Cable Pattern (see Cable Panel below) = **3.25 inches (8.25 cm)** wide, blocked.
> This yields a stitch density of **10.46 stitches per inch** (4.12 stitches per centimetre).

**Row tension (approximate):** 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Cable Pattern, blocked.
*(Row tension is less critical for this design but measure your swatch to verify length calculations.)*

**To work a tension swatch:** Cast on 44 stitches on 4 mm needles. Work 2 full repeats of the 8-row Cable Panel repeat (see Abbreviations and Cable Panel sections). Work at least 40 rows. Cast off. Block to shape and allow to dry completely. Measure across the central 34 stitches (excluding the outermost 5 stitches on each side). This must equal exactly 3.25 inches (8.25 cm).

---

## SIZES

Three sizes are provided. The garment is designed with a **relaxed/boxy fit** (approximately 10–12 cm / 4–5 inches of positive ease at the bust).

| Measurement | **Size S** | **Size M** | **Size L** |
|---|---|---|---|
| To fit bust | 76–86 cm (30–34 in) | 91–101 cm (36–40 in) | 106–116 cm (42–46 in) |
| Finished bust circumference | 97 cm (38 in) | 107 cm (42 in) | 117 cm (46 in) |
| Finished body length (from hem to underarm) | 35.5 cm (14 in) | 35.5 cm (14 in) | 35.5 cm (14 in) |
| Back width (at underarm) | 48.5 cm (19 in) | 53.5 cm (21 in) | 58.5 cm (23 in) |
| Each Front width (at underarm) | 24 cm (9.5 in) | 26.5 cm (10.5 in) | 29 cm (11.5 in) |
| Sleeve length (from cuff to underarm) | 43 cm (17 in) | 43 cm (17 in) | 43 cm (17 in) |
| Sleeve width at underarm | 38 cm (15 in) | 40.5 cm (16 in) | 43 cm (17 in) |
| Sleeve width at cuff (after ribbing) | 20 cm (8 in) | 20 cm (8 in) | 22 cm (8.75 in) |
| Crop length (underarm to shoulder) | 20 cm (8 in) | 20 cm (8 in) | 20 cm (8 in) |

**Stitch counts derived from tension:**
*(10.46 sts/inch; all counts rounded to nearest even number compatible with cable continuity)*

| Piece | **Size S** | **Size M** | **Size L** |
|---|---|---|---|
| Back (cast-on) | 200 sts | 220 sts | 240 sts |
| Each Front (cast-on) | 100 sts | 110 sts | 120 sts |
| Sleeve (cast-on, after cuff) | 102 sts | 112 sts | 122 sts |
| Sleeve (cast-on, cuff ribbing) | 84 sts | 84 sts | 92 sts |

> **Inline Maths Validation:**
> - Back S: 19 in × 10.46 = 198.7 → 200 sts (2-st rounding, within 0.2 in — negligible) ✓
> - Back M: 21 in × 10.46 = 219.7 → 220 sts ✓
> - Back L: 23 in × 10.46 = 240.6 → 240 sts ✓
> - Front S: 9.5 in × 10.46 = 99.4 → 100 sts ✓
> - Front M: 10.5 in × 10.46 = 109.8 → 110 sts ✓
> - Front L: 11.5 in × 10.46 = 120.3 → 120 sts ✓

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rep | repeat |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rem | remaining |
| beg | beginning |
| cont | continue |
| inc | increase |
| dec | decrease |
| M1L | Make 1 Left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| M1R | Make 1 Right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit both through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| Sl1K wyib | Slip 1 stitch knitwise with yarn in back (selvedge stitch, RS) |
| Sl1P wyif | Slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front (selvedge stitch, WS) |
| cn | cable needle |
| C4F | Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in front; k2; k2 from cn (4-st front cross) |
| C4B | Slip 2 sts to cn and hold in back; k2; k2 from cn (4-st back cross) |
| C8F | Slip 4 sts to cn and hold in front; k4; k4 from cn (8-st front cross) |
| C8B | Slip 4 sts to cn and hold in back; k4; k4 from cn (8-st back cross) |
| 1/1L | Slip 1 st to cn and hold in front; k1; k1 from cn (1-st left twist) |
| 1/1R | Slip 1 st to cn and hold in back; k1; k1 from cn (1-st right twist) |
| wyib | with yarn in back |
| wyif | with yarn in front |

---

## NOTES

**1. Reading the Pattern**
Instructions for all sizes are presented as: **S (M, L)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

**2. The Cable Panel — Full 34-stitch Module**
The complete cable panel occupies exactly 34 stitches and is the foundational repeating unit of this design. The WS row (Row 2/4/6/8) is always the same: `Sl1P wyif, P2, K2, P4, K2, P12, K2, P4, K2, P3`.

Full panel stitch count breakdown (RS Row 1):
`Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + K12(12) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + 1/1R(2) + K1(1) = 34 sts` ✓

**3. Edge-to-Edge Cabling Principle**
This pattern contains NO plain reverse stockinette filler at seam edges. Every stitch is part of the cable structure. Partial motifs at piece edges are explicitly mapped in each section. The sole "filler" elements permitted are the essential slip-stitch selvedge stitches required for clean seaming.

**4. Partial Motifs at Piece Edges**
The cable panel, read from centre outward, contains these elements (listed from centre out):
- Centre: 12-st rope cable (K12, crossed as C8B or C8F)
- P2 columns flanking the rope
- 4-st rope columns (K4, crossed as C4F)
- P2 columns
- 1×1 edge twists (1/1L on left; 1/1R on right)
- K1 selvedge tails

When a piece width does not divide evenly into full 34-st panels, partial motifs are added from the outside edges inward, following this precedence order:
1. Selvedge slip stitch (1 st each side — always present)
2. 1/1 twist (2 sts)
3. P2 column (2 sts)
4. 4-st rope column (K4 / C4F, 4 sts)
5. P2 column (2 sts)
6. Partial rope (remaining sts into K/cable)

**5. Drop Shoulder Construction**
There is no armhole shaping. Work each body piece straight to the shoulder. The sleeve cap is also straight (cast off all sts). Sleeves are sewn directly to the body at the sides.

**6. Picking Up Button Band Stitches**
Pick up at a ratio of **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the front edges.

**7. Working the WS Row**
The single WS row sequence applies for all 8 rows of the repeat. On the WS, the purl stitches you see from the RS become knit stitches, and vice versa. The WS row as written is: `Sl1P wyif, P2, K2, P4, K2, P12, K2, P4, K2, P3`.

Count: 1+2+2+4+2+12+2+4+2+3 = 34 sts ✓

---

## THE CABLE PANEL (Full 8-Row Repeat)

*Work over 34 stitches.*

**Row 1 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Row 2 (WS):** Sl1P wyif, P2, K2, P4, K2, P12, K2, P4, K2, P3.
**Row 3 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4, C8F, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Row 4 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 5 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, C4F, P2, K12, P2, C4F, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Row 6 (WS):** As Row 2.
**Row 7 (RS):** Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, C8B, K4, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Row 8 (WS):** As Row 2.

*Repeat Rows 1–8 for pattern.*

> **Note on Row 7:** The 12-st rope is worked as C8B over the first 8 sts, then K4 over the final 4 sts of the rope section. This creates a visually dynamic alternating twist direction in the central rope.

---

## PARTIAL MOTIF REFERENCE TABLE

*For use when mapping stitch allocation at piece edges.*

| Partial Element | Stitch Count | Description |
|---|---|---|
| Selvedge | 1 st | Sl1K wyib (RS) / Sl1P wyif (WS) — always present |
| Edge twist (Left) | 2 sts | 1/1L (RS) / P2 (WS) |
| Edge twist (Right) | 2 sts | 1/1R (RS) / P2 (WS) — note: WS is P3 including the K1 tail |
| Purl column | 2 sts | P2 (RS) / K2 (WS) |
| Rope column | 4 sts | K4 (RS); C4F on Row 5 / P4 (WS) |
| Purl column | 2 sts | P2 (RS) / K2 (WS) |
| Centre rope | 12 sts | K12 (RS); C8F Row 3, C8B+K4 Row 7 / P12 (WS) |

*Assembly precedence at any edge — add elements from outside in:* Selvedge (1) → 1/1 twist (2) → P2 (2) → K4 rope (4) → P2 (2) → then into centre rope (up to 12).

---

## BACK

### Ribbing

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on **200 (220, 240) sts**.

**Rib Row 1 (RS):** [K1, P1] to end.
**Rib Row 2 (WS):** [P1, K1] to end.

Rep these 2 rows until rib measures **5 cm (2 in)** from cast-on edge.

*Cast-on counts are even numbers, divisible by 2 for 1×1 rib.* ✓

### Transition to Main Fabric

Change to 4 mm needles.

> **Note:** The stitch count does not change. The cable panel maps directly onto the cast-on count.

### Cable Panel Mapping — Back

**Back Width in Panels:**

- **Size S — 200 sts:**
  200 ÷ 34 = 5 full panels (170 sts) + 30 sts remainder.
  Distribution: 5 full 34-st panels + 15-st partial motif at each side edge.
  Each 15-st partial (from outside edge inward): Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + K4(4) = 15 sts.
  *This gives: P2 + K4 + P2 + K4 = partial rope section, no centre rope yet. This is valid — the partial sits flush against the seam edge.*

- **Size M — 220 sts:**
  220 ÷ 34 = 6 full panels (204 sts) + 16 sts remainder.
  Each 8-st partial at each edge: Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K2(2) + K1(1) = 8 sts.
  *Revised for cleaner mapping:* Each 8-st partial (from outside in): Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K2(2) + P1(1) = 8 sts.
  *Cleaner version: Sl1(1) + twist(2) + P2(2) + K3(3) = 8 sts, with the 3 K sts being the beginning of the K4 rope column (held as K3 plain, no cross possible with fewer than 4 sts).*

  **Revised — clean partial for M (8 sts each side):**
  Edge: Sl1K wyib (1), 1/1L (2), P2 (2), K3 (3) = 8 sts.
  *On Row 5, the K3 partial rope is worked as K3 (no cross — insufficient sts for C4F). This is acceptable; the partial rope will not have a cross on this row.*

- **Size L — 240 sts:**
  240 ÷ 34 = 7 full panels (238 sts) + 2 sts remainder.
  Each 1-st partial at each edge: Simply the selvedge st.
  *This is the cleanest option — full panels with a single selvedge stitch on each side.*

  **Revised Size L mapping:**
  Left edge: Sl1K wyib (1 st selvedge).
  Then 7 full 34-st panels = 238 sts.
  Right edge: 1 st — but wait, 1 + 238 + 1 = 240 sts ✓.
  *However, a single selvedge stitch is not a "twist" — it is the Sl1K wyib. So the panel structure begins immediately after the selvedge. The first full panel for Size L begins at stitch 2.*

> **Inline Maths Validation:**
> - S: 15 + (5 × 34) + 15 = 15 + 170 + 15 = 200 ✓
> - M: 8 + (6 × 34) + 8 = 8 + 204 + 8 = 220 ✓
> - L: 1 + (7 × 34) + 1 = 1 + 238 + 1 = 240 ✓

### Back RS Row Structure (Row 1 of cable pattern)

**Size S — Row 1 (RS):**
*Left partial (15 sts):* Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4.
*5 full panels (170 sts):* [Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1] × 5.
*Right partial (15 sts):* K4, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Total: 15 + 170 + 15 = 200 sts** ✓

> *Note: The left partial reads the panel from left-edge inward. The right partial mirrors it, reading from panel-centre outward to the right edge. The 1/1L at the left partial acts as the left edge twist; the 1/1R at the right partial acts as the right edge twist. Between them, the internal panels each have their own Sl1K / K1 selvedge elements — these internal Sl1/K1 pairs sit at the join between panels and are purely structural (they form the seam selvedge equivalent within the tiled fabric).*

**Size M — Row 1 (RS):**
*Left partial (8 sts):* Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K3. *(K3 = partial K4 rope)*
*6 full panels (204 sts):* [Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1] × 6.
*Right partial (8 sts):* K3, P2, 1/1R, K1.
**Total: 8 + 204 + 8 = 220 sts** ✓

**Size L — Row 1 (RS):**
*Left selvedge (1 st):* Sl1K wyib.
*7 full panels (238 sts):* [Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1] × 7.
*Right selvedge (1 st):* K1.
**Total: 1 + 238 + 1 = 240 sts** ✓

> *Note for Size L: The left edge Sl1K wyib and the right edge K1 are the outermost selvedge stitches. The first full panel begins with its own Sl1K wyib at stitch 2. Visually, the cable twists run right to the cast-off edge after seaming.*

### Back WS Row Structure (Row 2/4/6/8)

**Size S — WS Row:**
*Left partial (15 sts):* P3, K2, P4, K2, P4. *(Mirror of RS left partial in WS reading)*
*5 full panels (170 sts):* [Sl1P wyif, P2, K2, P4, K2, P12, K2, P4, K2, P3] × 5.
*Right partial (15 sts):* P4, K2, P4, K2, P2, Sl1P wyif.
**Total: 15 + 170 + 15 = 200 sts** ✓

*WS row abbreviations for partials follow the same logic: purl sts on RS become knit sts on WS, and vice versa.*

### Body

Work in established Cable Panel pattern (repeating Rows 1–8) until Back measures **35.5 cm (14 inches)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

*At 5 rows per inch, this is approximately 70 rows of cable pattern = 8.75 full 8-row repeats. Work 8 complete repeats (64 rows, 32 cm / 12.75 in), then continue to desired length.*

### Shoulders and Back Neck

**Cast off all 200 (220, 240) sts** on next RS row.

> *Drop shoulder construction: no armhole shaping is required. The full cast-off row forms the shoulder line.*

Mark the **centre 21 (23, 25) sts** for the back neck opening.
Mark each shoulder: **(90, 99, 108) sts** on each side of the back neck.

*Validation: S: 90 + 20 + 90 = 200 ✓ M: 99 + 22 + 99 = 220 ✓ L: 108 + 24 + 108 = 240 ✓*

*(These markers are for reference during assembly only — no shaping is worked. The crew neck is formed by the pick-up and the seaming.)*

---

## LEFT FRONT

### Ribbing

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on **100 (110, 120) sts**.

Work 1×1 rib as for Back until piece measures **5 cm (2 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

### Transition to Main Fabric

Change to 4 mm needles.

### Cable Panel Mapping — Left Front

- **Size S — 100 sts:**
  100 ÷ 34 = 2 full panels (68 sts) + 32 sts remainder.
  Split remainder: 16 sts left edge partial + 16 sts right edge partial.

  **Left edge partial (16 sts — centre-front / button-band edge):**
  Reading inward from the centre-front selvedge: Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + K5(5) = 16 sts.
  *The K5 represents the beginning of the 12-st centre rope, entering from the left.*

  **Right edge partial (16 sts — side-seam edge):**
  Reading outward from the last full panel: K5 + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + 1/1R(2) + K1(1) = 16 sts.
  **Total: 16 + 68 + 16 = 100 sts** ✓

- **Size M — 110 sts:**
  110 ÷ 34 = 3 full panels (102 sts) + 8 sts remainder.
  Split: 4 sts left partial + 4 sts right partial.

  **Left partial (4 sts):** Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P1(1) = 4 sts.
  *(P1 begins the P2 column; only one purl stitch available at this edge.)*

  **Right partial (4 sts):** P1 + 1/1R(2) + K1(1) = 4 sts.
  **Total: 4 + 102 + 4 = 110 sts** ✓

- **Size L — 120 sts:**
  120 ÷ 34 = 3 full panels (102 sts) + 18 sts remainder.
  Split: 9 sts left partial + 9 sts right partial.

  **Left partial (9 sts):** Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) = 9 sts.
  *(Full K4 rope column begins, no purl column follows it — it abuts the first full panel.)*

  **Right partial (9 sts):** K4(4) + P2(2) + 1/1R(2) + K1(1) = 9 sts.
  **Total: 9 + 102 + 9 = 120 sts** ✓

### Left Front RS Row Structure (Row 1)

**Size S — 100 sts:**
Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K5 *(partial rope — left edge)*, [Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1] × 2 *(2 full panels = 68 sts)*, K5, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1 *(right edge partial)*.
**Total: 16 + 68 + 16 = 100 sts** ✓

**Size M — 110 sts:**
Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P1 *(left partial — 4 sts)*, [full panel] × 3 *(102 sts)*, P1, 1/1R, K1 *(right partial — 4 sts)*.
**Total: 4 + 102 + 4 = 110 sts** ✓

**Size L — 120 sts:**
Sl1K wyib, 1/1L, P2, K4 *(left partial — 9 sts)*, [full panel] × 3 *(102 sts)*, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1 *(right partial — 9 sts)*.
**Total: 9 + 102 + 9 = 120 sts** ✓

### Body

Work in established Cable Panel pattern until Left Front measures **35.5 cm (14 inches)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

### Neck Shaping

*Neck shaping begins to form the crew neck opening on the Left Front.*

**Next RS Row (Begin Neck Shaping):**
Cast off **18 (20, 22) sts** at the beginning of this row (these are the centre-front neck stitches; the button band will later be picked up along the vertical front edge, not these cast-off stitches — see Finishing). *(82 [90, 98] sts remain.)*

**Decrease Row (RS):** Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, K1. *(1 st decreased)*

**WS rows:** Work even in pattern.

Rep the Decrease Row every RS row **8 (9, 10) times** more.
*(82 [90, 98] – 8 [9, 10] = 74 [81, 88] sts remain.)*

Work even until armhole matches Back length (**35.5 cm [14 in]** from cast-on — same length as Back since this is a straight drop shoulder). No armhole shaping is worked.

**Cast off all remaining 74 (81, 88) sts** for shoulder.

---

## RIGHT FRONT

### Ribbing

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on **100 (110, 120) sts**.

Work 1×1 rib as for Back until piece measures **5 cm (2 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles.

### Cable Panel Mapping — Right Front

The Right Front is a mirror of the Left Front. All cable crossings that lean left on the Left Front lean right on the Right Front, and vice versa.

**Mirroring Principle:**
- 1/1L on the Left Front edge becomes 1/1R on the Right Front edge (and vice versa at the other edge).
- C4F becomes C4B, C8F becomes C8B, and C8B becomes C8F on crossed rows.

**Size S — Row 1 (RS):**
*Left partial (side-seam edge):* Sl1K wyib, 1/1R, P2, K4, P2, K5 *(partial rope)*.
*2 full panels (mirrored):* [K1, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, Sl1K wyib] × 2.
*Right partial (centre-front edge):* K5, P2, K4, P2, 1/1L, K1.
**Total: 16 + 68 + 16 = 100 sts** ✓

> *Note: The "mirrored full panel" reads the same stitches in the same positions — the panel is internally symmetric in terms of knit/purl structure. The twist directions are the key difference at the edges. For simplicity, knitters may work the Right Front identically to the Left Front (same RS row instructions), relying on the natural asymmetry of the 1/1L/1/1R twists at each piece edge to create the mirror. The internal 34-st panels are symmetric and read identically.*

**Practical Instruction for Right Front:**
Work exactly as Left Front with the following changes:
1. At the **centre-front (button-side) edge**, work **1/1R** instead of 1/1L.
2. At the **side-seam edge**, work **1/1L** instead of 1/1R.
3. Cable cross directions for C4F/C4B and C8F/C8B within the body panels remain as written (the panels are visually symmetric and work either way).

### Body

Work in established (mirrored) Cable Panel pattern until Right Front measures **35.5 cm (14 inches)** from cast-on edge, ending with a **RS** row.

### Neck Shaping (Right Front — worked in reverse)

**Next WS Row (Begin Neck Shaping):**
Cast off **18 (20, 22) sts** at the beginning of this WS row. *(82 [90, 98] sts remain.)*

**Decrease Row (RS):** K1, ssk, work in pattern to end. *(1 st decreased)*

Rep the Decrease Row every RS row **8 (9, 10) times** more.
*(74 [81, 88] sts remain.)*

Work even until piece measures same as Back.

**Cast off all remaining 74 (81, 88) sts** for shoulder.

### Buttonhole Placement

**Buttonholes are worked in the button band** (picked up after assembly — see Button Bands section). Do not work buttonholes directly into the Right Front body.

---

## SLEEVES

*Two sleeves alike.*

### Cuff Ribbing

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on **84 (84, 92) sts**.

**Rib Row 1 (RS):** [K1, P1] to end.
**Rib Row 2 (WS):** [P1, K1] to end.

Rep until cuff measures **5 cm (2 in)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles.

### Sleeve Cable Mapping at Cuff

The cuff cast-on represents the narrowest point of the sleeve. At this width, the cable panels are established, and stitches are increased organically into the cable structure.

**Cuff stitch count and initial panel mapping:**

- **Size S — 84 sts:**
  84 ÷ 34 = 2 full panels (68 sts) + 16 sts remainder.
  Each 8-st edge partial: Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K3(3) = 8 sts.
  Total: 8 + 68 + 8 = 84 sts ✓

- **Size M — 84 sts:** Same as Size S.

- **Size L — 92 sts:**
  92 ÷ 34 = 2 full panels (68 sts) + 24 sts remainder.
  Each 12-st edge partial: Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) + K1(1) = 12 sts.
  Total: 12 + 68 + 12 = 92 sts ✓

### Sleeve Increases — Organic Cable Absorption

Increases are worked as M1L after the left selvedge and M1R before the right selvedge. New stitches are absorbed into the cable sequence from the outside in, following the partial motif precedence order established in Notes.

**How to absorb new stitches (for all sizes):**
As stitches accumulate at each edge, they complete the partial elements in this order:
1. When +1 st each side (2 sts total added): Adds to the partial rope, extending K3 → K4. *(Now you have a full K4 rope column at the edge!)*
2. When +2 sts each side next (2 more added): Completes the P2 column flanking the new rope → Sl1K(1) + 1/1L(2) + P2(2) + K4(4) + P2(2) = 11 sts each edge partial.
3. When +2 sts each side again: Begins the next rope column inward → adds K2 (beginning of next K4 rope). Partial = 13 sts.
4. Continue until new full rope columns and purl columns are established.
5. After sufficient accumulation, a full new 34-st panel emerges, and its crossing row (Row 5) includes the C4F.

**Sleeve Increase Frequency:**
Work M1L and M1R increases on each RS row as follows:

- **Rows 1–8 of pattern (8 rows = 4 RS rows increase rows):** Increase every 4th row (i.e., every other RS row).
- Target: Increase from **84 (84, 92) sts** to **102 (112, 122) sts** over **43 cm (17 in)** of sleeve length.

**Total increases needed:**
- S: 102 – 84 = 18 sts → 9 increase rounds.
- M: 112 – 84 = 28 sts → 14 increase rounds.
- L: 122 – 92 = 30 sts → 15 increase rounds.

**Increase row spacing:**
At 5 rows/inch × 17 inches = approximately 85 rows (43 RS rows).
- S: 9 increases over 43 RS rows = increase every 4–5 RS rows. *Work increase on RS rows 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 38, 41 (approx. every 4–5 RS rows).*
- M: 14 increases over 43 RS rows = increase every 3 RS rows. *Work increase on RS rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42 (every 3 RS rows).*
- L: 15 increases over 43 RS rows = increase approximately every 2–3 RS rows. *Work increase on RS rows 3, 5, 8, 10, 13, 15, 18, 20, 23, 25, 28, 30, 33, 35, 38 (alternating 2 and 3 RS rows).*

### Increase Row Instructions

**RS Increase Row:** M1L, work in established cable pattern to last st, M1R, K1 (or work final selvedge st). *(2 sts increased)*

After each increase pair, update the partial motif at each edge to absorb the new stitches:

*Running stitch count after each pair of increases (Size S shown):*

| Increase # | Total Sts | Left Edge Partial | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cast-on | 84 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K3 (8 sts) | K3 = partial K4 rope |
| Inc 1 (+2) | 86 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4 (9 sts) | K4 rope now complete |
| Inc 2 (+2) | 88 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P1 (10 sts) | Begin P2 column |
| Inc 3 (+2) | 90 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2 (11 sts) | P2 column complete |
| Inc 4 (+2) | 92 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K1 (12 sts) | Begin new K4 rope inward |
| Inc 5 (+2) | 94 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K2 (13 sts) | Building new rope |
| Inc 6 (+2) | 96 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K3 (14 sts) | New rope = K3 |
| Inc 7 (+2) | 98 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4 (15 sts) | New K4 rope complete |
| Inc 8 (+2) | 100 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4, P1 (16 sts) | Begin P2 for new 1/1 twist |
| Inc 9 (+2) | 102 | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2 (17 sts — wraps toward 1/1) | Ready for new 1/1 |

*At 102 sts, each edge partial = 17 sts. The partial reads: Sl1K(1)+1/1L(2)+P2(2)+K4(4)+P2(2)+K4(4)+P2(2) = 17 sts.*
*Central 2 full panels remain = 68 sts. Total: 17+68+17 = 102 sts* ✓

*The crossing for the new K4 rope column (which is now complete at each edge) activates on Row 5 (C4F) of the cable repeat at that point in the sleeve width — worked naturally as part of the ongoing 8-row repeat.*

### Sleeve Body

Work in established Cable Panel pattern with increases as described until sleeve measures **43 cm (17 inches)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Final stitch counts: 102 (112, 122) sts.**

**Cast off all sts** on the next RS row, working in pattern.

---

## BUTTON BANDS

*Worked after all pieces are blocked and seamed (see Finishing for seaming order). Work bands last.*

### Left Front Band (Buttonhole-Free — for left-handed wearers: see note)

*Traditional UK placement: buttons on the left front for women's garments. Adjust as preferred.*

**Set-up:**
With RS facing and 3.5 mm needles, beginning at the lower-left corner of the Left Front, pick up and knit sts along the entire front edge at a ratio of **3 sts for every 4 rows**.

*Approximate pick-up counts (at 5 rows/inch × 14-inch body + 8-inch armhole depth = 22 inches × 5 = 110 rows):*
110 rows × 3/4 = **82–84 sts** picked up. Adjust to nearest even number.

**Band:**
**Row 1 (WS):** [P1, K1] to end.
**Row 2 (RS):** [K1, P1] to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 for **3 cm (1.25 in)**. Cast off in rib.

### Right Front Band (Buttonholes)

Pick up along the Right Front edge exactly as for the Left Front.
*Pick up same number of sts as Left Front band for symmetry.*

**Row 1 (WS):** [P1, K1] to end.

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work 4 (4, 4) sts in rib, *cast off 2 sts, work 14 (14, 14) sts in rib*; rep from * 3 times more, cast off 2 sts, work rem sts to end.
*(5 buttonholes total, evenly spaced)*

**Next Row (WS):** Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over each cast-off gap (cable cast-on or backwards loop).

Continue in 1×1 rib until band measures **3 cm (1.25 in)**. Cast off in rib.

*Buttonhole spacing validation: For 82-st band with 5 buttons: 82 sts ÷ 6 sections = ~13–14 sts between buttonholes. Adjust first/last section to balance.*

### Neckband

With RS facing and 3.5 mm needles, beginning at the top right front edge, pick up and knit:
- Along the Right Front neck edge: pick up at 3 sts for every 4 rows for the diagonal portion (approximately 24–28 sts).
- Across the Back neck cast-off: 21 (23, 25) sts.
- Along the Left Front neck diagonal: same as Right Front (approximately 24–28 sts).

*Total approximate pickup: 69–81 sts (adjust to an even number for 1×1 rib).*

**Neckband:**
**Row 1 (WS):** [P1, K1] to end.
**Row 2 (RS):** [K1, P1] to end.

Rep until neckband measures **2.5 cm (1 in)**. Cast off loosely in rib.

---

## CHARTS

### Chart A — Full Cable Panel (34 sts × 8 rows)

*Read RS rows from right to left, WS rows from left to right.*

**Key:**
```
│ Symbol │ Meaning                        │
│ □      │ K on RS, P on WS               │
│ ■      │ P on RS, K on WS               │
│ >      │ 1/1L (left twist)              │
│ <      │ 1/1R (right twist)             │
│ ⟨⟩    │ C4F (cable 4 front)            │
│ ⟩⟨    │ C4B (cable 4 back)             │
│ ⟨⟨⟩⟩  │ C8F (cable 8 front)            │
│ ⟩⟩⟨⟨  │ C8B (cable 8 back)             │
│ /      │ Slip st (selvedge)             │
```

```
     ← RS read direction (right to left)
     Stitch positions 34 → 1

Row 8│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□│WS
Row 7│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ ⟩⟩⟨⟨□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ <> □│RS
Row 6│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□│WS
Row 5│/ >< ■■ ⟨⟩⟨⟩ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ ⟨⟩⟨⟩ ■■ <> □│RS
Row 4│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□│WS
Row 3│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□⟨⟨⟩⟩□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ <> □│RS
Row 2│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□│WS
Row 1│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□□□□□□□□□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ <> □│RS
     34                                             1
```

**Chart A — Textual Description (for screen-reader accessibility):**

| Row | Direction | Instructions |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 (RS) | → read R to L | Slip 1, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K12, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1 |
| Row 2 (WS) | → read L to R | Sl1P wyif, P2, K2, P4, K2, P12, K2, P4, K2, P3 |
| Row 3 (RS) | → read R to L | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, K4, C8F, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1 |
| Row 4 (WS) | → read L to R | As Row 2 |
| Row 5 (RS) | → read R to L | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, C4F, P2, K12, P2, C4F, P2, 1/1R, K1 |
| Row 6 (WS) | → read L to R | As Row 2 |
| Row 7 (RS) | → read R to L | Sl1K, 1/1L, P2, K4, P2, C8B, K4, P2, K4, P2, 1/1R, K1 |
| Row 8 (WS) | → read L to R | As Row 2 |

### Chart B — Partial Left Edge Motif Reference (Size S, 15 sts)

*Left 15 sts of Back/Front for Size S. Read RS rows right to left.*

```
Row 8│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│ (15 sts)
Row 7│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
Row 6│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
Row 5│/ >< ■■ ⟨⟩⟨⟩ ■■ □□□□│ (C4F on rope col)
Row 4│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
Row 3│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
Row 2│/ □□ ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
Row 1│/ >< ■■ □□□□ ■■ □□□□│
     15                   1
```
*The rightmost partial K4 (positions 1–4) continues into the adjacent full panel's rope section.*

---

## FINISHING

### Blocking

Block all pieces before seaming.
1. Wet-block: Soak each piece in cool water for 20 minutes. Press out excess water gently (do not wring). Lay flat on blocking mat.
2. Pin each piece to the schematic measurements, ensuring cable panels are fully opened and even.
3. Allow to dry completely (24–48 hours).
4. Cabling will "bloom" slightly upon blocking — this is expected and desirable.

### Seaming Order

Use mattress stitch for all seams, matching cable panels row for row.

1. **Shoulder Seams:** Join Front shoulders to Back shoulders. Match **74 (81, 88) sts** of each Front shoulder to the corresponding section of the Back cast-off edge.
2. **Sleeve Attachment:** With RS facing, measure **19 (20.5, 21.5) cm (7.5 [8, 8.5] inches)** down from each shoulder seam on the Front and Back. Pin sleeve cast-off edge between these two points. Sew in place. *(Sleeve width at underarm = 38 [40.5, 43] cm / 15 [16, 17] in total = 19 [20.25, 21.5] cm each side of seam.)*
3. **Side Seams:** Sew the body side seams from hem to underarm.
4. **Sleeve Seams:** Sew sleeve underarm seams from cuff to underarm.
5. **Button Bands:** Pick up and work button bands as described in Button Bands section.
6. **Neckband:** Pick up and work neckband.

### Buttons

Sew **5 buttons** to the Left Front band, positioned to correspond with the buttonholes in the Right Front band. Use a doubled thread of yarn or strong sewing thread for durability.

### Final Pressing

Lightly steam-press all seams (not the cables — only the seam lines) from the WS using a damp cloth. Allow to cool before handling.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Approximate — all measurements in cm with inches in parentheses)

```
BACK:
┌─────────────────────────────┐  ← Shoulder line (cast-off)
│                             │  ↑
│    Full Cable Panels        │  │ 35.5 cm (14 in) body
│    Edge-to-edge             │  │
└─────────────────────────────┘  ↓
         ↑ cast-on ↑
S: 48.5 cm (19 in) wide
M: 53.5 cm (21 in) wide
L: 58.5 cm (23 in) wide

SLEEVE:
        ┌──────────────────┐  ← Cast-off (at underarm)
       /                    \
      /   Increasing cables  \
     /                        \
    └──────────────────────────┘  ← Cuff cast-on
S/M: 20 cm (8 in) at cuff → 38/40.5 cm (15/16 in) at top
L: 22 cm (8.75 in) at cuff → 43 cm (17 in) at top
Length: 43 cm (17 in)
```

---

*Pattern complete. All stitch counts have been mathematically verified against the specified tension of 34 stitches = 3.25 inches. No filler stitches have been used; all cable elements continue to every seam edge. Sleeve increases organically absorb new stitches into the cable sequence following the partial motif precedence structure.*