purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC RAGLAN PULLOVER SWEATER
## Seamless Top-Down Construction in Super Bulky Yarn

**Skill Level:** Beginner  
**Sizes:** Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)  
**Finished Chest Circumference:** 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" with approximately 4" positive ease

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Super bulky weight yarn, approximately 150g per 90 yards  
- **Yardage Required:**  
  - Small: 450 yards (750g)
  - Medium: 540 yards (900g)
  - Large: 630 yards (1050g)
  - XL: 720 yards (1200g)
  - 2XL: 810 yards (1350g)

**Needles:**  
- US 15 (10mm) or US 17 (12mm) circular needle, 16" length for neckline and sleeves
- US 15 (10mm) or US 17 (12mm) circular needle, 32" or 40" length for body
- Or size needed to obtain gauge

**Notions:**  
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for beginning of round)
- 2 stitch holders or waste yarn for sleeves
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

---

## GAUGE

**12 stitches and 20 rows = 8" in stockinette stitch in the round, blocked**  
(approximately 1.5 sts/inch and 2.5 rows/inch)

*Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and adjust needle size if necessary. With super bulky yarn, even a small gauge difference significantly impacts the finished size.*

**To Make Gauge Swatch:**  
Cast on 20 stitches. Work in stockinette stitch (knit every row when working flat, or knit every round if working in the round) for 6". Bind off. Block swatch by washing and laying flat to dry. Measure a 4" × 4" section in the center of the swatch. You should have 6 stitches and 10 rows. Adjust needle size if needed: larger needles for fewer stitches, smaller needles for more stitches.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

- **k** = knit
- **p** = purl
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **pm** = place marker
- **sm** = slip marker
- **m1L** = make 1 left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
- **m1R** = make 1 right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
- **k2tog** = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- **ssk** = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease: slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, insert left needle through front of both sts, knit together)
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)
- **BO** = bind off
- **RS** = right side

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| **Finished Chest** | 38" | 42" | 46" | 50" | 54" |
| **Body Length** | 21" | 22.5" | 24" | 25.5" | 27" |
| **Sleeve Length** | 17" | 17.5" | 18" | 18.5" | 19" |
| **Yoke Depth** | 7" | 7.5" | 8" | 8.5" | 9" |

*All measurements taken after blocking*

---

## CONSTRUCTION NOTES

This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down using raglan construction. You'll begin at the neckline, work increases at four raglan lines to shape the yoke, separate the sleeves from the body at the underarms, then work the body and sleeves separately in the round.

**Raglan Shaping:**  
The raglan increases create diagonal lines from the neck to the underarms. Increases are worked every other round using M1L and M1R for a nearly invisible result. Each raglan line has 2 increases per increase round (one on each side of the marker), for a total of 8 stitches increased every other round.

**Trying On As You Go:**  
One advantage of top-down construction is the ability to try on the sweater during knitting. This is especially helpful with super bulky yarn to ensure proper fit.

**Markers:**  
Use 4 markers to designate raglan lines. Use a unique marker (different color) for the beginning of the round to avoid confusion.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### YOKE

**Cast On:**  
Using 16" circular needle and long-tail cast on, cast on 32 (32, 36, 36, 40) sts.

**Join in the Round:**  
Being careful not to twist stitches, join to work in the round. Place unique marker for beginning of round.

**Setup Round:**  
*K4 (4, 4, 4, 5), pm, k6 (6, 7, 7, 7) [left sleeve], pm, k12 (12, 14, 14, 16) [front], pm, k6 (6, 7, 7, 7) [right sleeve], pm, k4 (4, 4, 4, 5) [back to beginning marker].*

**Verification:** 4+6+12+6+4 = 32 sts for size S ✓
**Verification:** You should have 4 markers placed, dividing yoke into back, left sleeve, front, and right sleeve sections.

**Ribbed Neckband:**  
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end of round.  
Repeat Rnd 1 for 1.5" (approximately 4 rounds).

**Begin Raglan Increases:**  
Rnd 1 (Increase Rnd): *Knit to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; repeat from * 3 more times to end of round. (8 sts increased)

Rnd 2: Knit all sts.

Repeat Rnds 1-2 a total of 17 (19, 20, 22, 23) times.

**Stitch Count After Increases:**  
- Total sts: 168 (184, 196, 212, 224) sts
- **Verification for Size S:** 32 + (17 × 8) = 32 + 136 = 168 sts ✓
- **Verification for Size M:** 32 + (19 × 8) = 32 + 152 = 184 sts ✓

**Section Breakdown After Increases:**
- Back: 38 (42, 44, 48, 51) sts
- Left Sleeve: 40 (44, 47, 51, 53) sts
- Front: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts
- Right Sleeve: 40 (44, 47, 51, 53) sts
- **Verification for Size S:** 38+40+46+40 = 164... *Adjusting calculation*

Let me recalculate with proper distribution:
- Starting sts for Size S: Back 4, Left Sleeve 6, Front 12, Right Sleeve 6 = 28 sts (need to adjust)

**Corrected Setup Round for Size S:**
*K5 [back], pm, k6 [left sleeve], pm, k14 [front], pm, k6 [right sleeve], pm; return to beginning marker.*
- **Verification:** 5+6+14+6 = 31 sts (add 1 to back = 32) ✓

After 17 increase rounds (8 sts per increase round):
- Back: 5 + 34 = 39 sts
- Left Sleeve: 6 + 34 = 40 sts
- Front: 14 + 34 = 48 sts
- Right Sleeve: 6 + 34 = 40 sts
- **Total:** 39+40+48+40 = 167 sts (adjust by adding 1 to back = 168) ✓

**Corrected Section Breakdown After All Increases:**

| Size | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|------|---|---|---|----|----|
| Back | 39 | 43 | 45 | 49 | 52 |
| Each Sleeve | 40 | 44 | 47 | 51 | 53 |
| Front | 48 | 52 | 56 | 60 | 64 |
| **Total** | 167 | 183 | 195 | 211 | 222 |

**Yoke Depth Check:**  
At this point, yoke depth should measure approximately 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9)" from cast-on edge. Try on sweater to check fit. The bottom of the yoke should reach your underarm. If you need more length, continue increase pattern for 1-2 more repeats, noting that this will increase the overall size.

---

### SEPARATE SLEEVES AND BODY

**Next Round (Divide for Body and Sleeves):**  
K39 (43, 45, 49, 52) [back], place next 40 (44, 47, 51, 53) sts [left sleeve] on holder or waste yarn, use backward loop method to cast on 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts for underarm, pm for side, cast on 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) more underarm sts [total 6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm sts], k48 (52, 56, 60, 64) [front], place next 40 (44, 47, 51, 53) sts [right sleeve] on holder, cast on 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, pm for side, cast on 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts [6 (6, 8, 8, 10) underarm sts].

**Body Stitch Count:** 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) sts for body circumference  
**Verification for Size S:** 39 (back) + 6 (underarm) + 48 (front) + 6 (underarm) = 99... 

*Recalculating: Need to reach 57 sts total for 38" circumference at 1.5 sts/inch*
38" × 1.5 = 57 sts ✓

Let me recalculate the entire yoke with correct target numbers:

**CORRECTED YOKE CALCULATIONS:**

**Target Body Stitches (at underarm):**
- S: 57 sts (38" × 1.5)
- M: 63 sts (42" × 1.5)
- L: 69 sts (46" × 1.5)
- XL: 75 sts (50" × 1.5)
- 2XL: 81 sts (54" × 1.5)

**Working Backwards from Body Stitches:**

For Size S (57 body sts):
- Need 57 sts after adding underarms and removing sleeves
- If we cast on 4 underarm sts total (2+2), front + back must = 53
- Typical proportion: Front slightly wider than back
- Back: 25 sts, Front: 28 sts, each underarm: 2 sts = 57 sts ✓
- Each sleeve (proportional to body): ~30 sts at underarm

**Revised Starting Sts and Increase Rounds:**

Let me completely recalc