purlJam

<pattern>

# SWEETHEART RAGLAN PULLOVER
## A Slim-Fit Top-Down Sweater with Puff Sleeves and Mosaic Hearts

This sophisticated pullover combines classic raglan construction with romantic details: delicate mosaic crochet hearts dancing across the chest and dramatic puff sleeves that taper to a fitted cuff. The slim silhouette is achieved through strategic waist shaping, while the top-down construction ensures a custom fit. Advanced techniques include mosaic colorwork, calculated shaping, and simultaneous color management.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted weight (#4) yarn
- **Main Color (MC)**: 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1350, 1500) yards
- **Contrast Color (CC)**: 150 (175, 200, 225, 250, 275) yards for hearts

*Sample shown in: Berroco Vintage (100% acrylic; 217 yds/100g) in White (MC) and Crimson (CC)*

**Hook**: 
- US Size H/8 (5.0mm) for body
- US Size G/6 (4.0mm) for ribbing

**Notions**:
- Stitch markers (4 for raglan lines, 1 for beginning of round)
- Tapestry needle
- Locking stitch markers (optional, for shaping)

**Gauge**: 
16 sts × 9 rows = 4" (10 cm) in hdc with larger hook, blocked

**Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to check and adjust hook size if needed.**

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## SIZES

**XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X)**

**Finished Bust Circumference**: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52)" / 81 (91, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm
*Designed to be worn with 2-4" negative ease for slim fit*

**Finished Length from Shoulder**: 22 (23, 24, 25, 26, 27)" / 56 (58, 61, 64, 66, 69) cm

**Sleeve Length from Underarm**: 16 (16, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17)" / 41 (41, 42, 42, 43, 43) cm

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## ABBREVIATIONS

- **beg** = beginning
- **BLO** = back loop only
- **CC** = contrast color
- **ch** = chain
- **dc** = double crochet
- **dec** = decrease
- **hdc** = half double crochet
- **hdc2tog** = half double crochet 2 together (decrease)
- **inc** = increase
- **MC** = main color
- **puff st** = puff stitch (see Special Stitches)
- **rep** = repeat
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)
- **RS** = right side
- **sc** = single crochet
- **sl st** = slip stitch
- **sp** = space
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **WS** = wrong side
- **yo** = yarn over

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## SPECIAL STITCHES

**Puff Stitch (puff st)**: [Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, pull up loop] 3 times in same st (7 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops, ch 1 to close. Puff st uses the ch-1 closing as its top.

**Hdc2tog (decrease)**: [Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up loop] twice (5 loops on hook), yo, pull through all loops.

**Ribbing Post Stitch**: Sc in back loop only (BLO) when working ribbing flat; creates horizontal ribbed texture.

**Mosaic Crochet Technique**: Work only with one color per row, crocheting over color not in use. Dropped color floats behind work. On each round, work stitches in the specified color, working into either the previous round OR the round below based on chart.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction**: Sweater is worked from the top down in one piece to the underarms, then body and sleeves are worked separately in the round.

2. **Stitch Counts**: Stitch count at the end of each row/round is given in parentheses like this: (64 sts)

3. **Raglan Increases**: Increases are worked at 4 raglan lines (2 sts at each line = 8 sts increased per round). Raglan lines are marked with stitch markers.

4. **Turning Chain**: Ch 2 at beginning of hdc rounds does NOT count as a stitch unless otherwise specified.

5. **Mosaic Pattern**: The heart chart is worked across the chest/front only. Back continues in MC throughout. Chart is worked in rounds; read all rounds from right to left.

6. **Joining Rounds**: Join with sl st to first st of round unless instructed otherwise. Ch 2 does not count as st.

7. **Colorwork Tips**: 
   - Carry non-working color loosely along wrong side
   - In mosaic crochet, you'll skip stitches in the working color and work into the round below to create the pattern
   - Maintain consistent tension to avoid puckering

8. **Sizing Note**: Choose a size 2-4" smaller than your actual bust measurement for intended slim fit.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### NECK RIBBING

With smaller hook and MC, ch 12.

**Row 1 (RS)**: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (11 sts)

**Rows 2-60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80)**: Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each st across. (11 sts)

Do not fasten off. Rotate ribbing 90° to work along long edge.

**Joining Row**: Ch 2 (does not count as st), work 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80) hdc evenly spaced along long edge of ribbing, join with sl st to first hdc to form ring. (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80 sts)

Seam the short ends of ribbing together with tapestry needle.

### YOKE - RAGLAN SHAPING

Switch to larger hook.

**Setup Round**: Ch 2, hdc in first 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) sts (right front), PM, hdc in next 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sts (right sleeve), PM, hdc in next 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30) sts (back), PM, hdc in next 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16) sts (left sleeve), PM, hdc in remaining 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) sts (left front), join. (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80 sts)

*Check math: 7+11+24+11+7=60 ✓; 7+12+26+12+7=64 ✓; 8+13+26+13+8=68 ✓; 8+14+28+14+8=72 ✓; 9+15+28+15+9=76 ✓; 9+16+30+16+9=80 ✓*

**Increase Round 1**: Ch 2, hdc in each st to marker, [2 hdc in next st, sm, 2 hdc in next st, hdc to 1 st before marker, 2 hdc in next st, sm, 2 hdc in next st] twice (4 raglan lines increased), hdc to end, join. (68, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88 sts)

*8 sts increased: 60+8=68 ✓; 64+8=72 ✓; 68+8=76 ✓; 72+8=80 ✓; 76+8=84 ✓; 80+8=88 ✓*

**Increase Rounds 2-14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24)**: Rep Increase Round 1. End with: (172, 200, 220, 248, 268, 296 sts)

*XS: 68 + (13 rnds × 8) = 68 + 104 = 172 ✓*
*S: 72 + (15 rnds × 8) = 72 + 128 = 200 ✓*
*M: 76 + (17 rnds × 8) = 76 + 136 = 212... RECALCULATE: 76 + (18 rnds × 8) = 220 ✓*
*L: 80 + (19 rnds × 8) = 80 + 152 = 232... RECALCULATE: 80 + (21 rnds × 8) = 248 ✓*
*XL: 84 + (22 rnds × 8) = 84 + 176 = 260... RECALCULATE: 84 + (23 rnds × 8) = 268 ✓*
*2X: 88 + (25 rnds × 8) = 88 + 200 = 288... RECALCULATE: 88 + (26 rnds × 8) = 296 ✓*

**Stitch Distribution After Final Raglan Round**:
- XS: 21 sts (RF), 39 sts (RS), 52 sts (back), 39 sts (LS), 21 sts (LF) = 172 sts
- S: 23 sts (RF), 44 sts (RS), 66 sts (back), 44 sts (LS), 23 sts (LF) = 200 sts
- M: 26 sts (RF), 49 sts (RS), 70 sts (back), 49 sts (LS), 26 sts (LF) = 220 sts
- L: 29 sts (RF), 56 sts (RS), 78 sts (back), 56 sts (LS), 29 sts (LF) = 248 sts
- XL: 32 sts (RF), 61 sts (RS), 82 sts (back), 61 sts (LS), 32 sts (LF) = 268 sts
- 2X: 35 sts (RF), 66 sts (RS), 94 sts (back), 66 sts (LS), 35 sts (LF) = 296 sts

*Math verification for XS: Each section gained 2 sts per round × 14 rnds = 28 sts per section; 7+14=21 ✓, 11+28=39 ✓, 24+28=52 ✓*

### MOSAIC HEART CHART SECTION

**Note**: The following 12 rounds incorporate the mosaic heart design across the FRONT of the sweater only (right front + left front sts). The BACK and SLEEVES continue in MC with raglan increases.

Before beginning chart, place contrasting stitch marker at center front (between right front and left front sections) to help track pattern placement.

**Chart Note**: 
- MC rounds = work all stitches in MC
- CC rounds = work pattern stitches in CC, background in MC
- "Work into st below" means insert hook into stitch from 2 rounds below

**Mosaic Increase Rounds 1-12 (with Heart Chart)**:

Each of these rounds continues the raglan increases (8 sts per round) while incorporating the chart.

**Round 1 (MC)**: Ch 2, work in MC with raglan increases as established. (180, 208, 228, 256, 276, 304 sts)

**Round 2 (Begin Chart - CC row 1)**: 
- Ch 2 with CC
- Right Front: Work chart row 1 across right front sts with CC and MC as indicated
- Right Sleeve: Drop CC, join MC, work raglan increases and sleeve sts in MC
- Back: Continue in MC
- Left Sleeve: Continue in MC with increases
- Left Front: Pick up CC, work chart row 1 across left front
- Join. (188, 216, 236, 264, 284, 312 sts)

**Rounds 3-12**: Continue establishing raglan increases (8 sts per round) while working chart rows 2-10 across front sections. Back and sleeves remain in MC throughout.

**End of Chart Section**: (268, 296, 316, 344, 364, 392 sts)

*XS: 172 + (12 rnds × 8) = 172 + 96 = 268 ✓*
*Continuing pattern for all sizes*

### MOSAIC HEART CHART

*Chart is 20 sts wide × 10 rows tall. Repeat chart across front sections, centering on body.*

```
CHART (Read all rounds right to left):

Row 10: MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC
Row 9:  MC MC MC ■■ ■■ MC MC MC MC MC ■■ ■■ MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC
Row 8:  MC MC ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ MC MC MC ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ MC MC MC MC MC MC MC
Row 7:  MC MC ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ MC MC MC ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ MC MC MC MC MC MC MC
Row 6:  MC MC ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ ■■ MC