purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC SET-IN SLEEVE JUMPER
## Ladies DK Weight Pullover

**Difficulty Level:** Intermediate

---

## DESCRIPTION
A timeless crew neck pullover worked flat from the bottom up in pieces. Features classic set-in sleeve construction with shaped armholes for a flattering, tailored fit. The body and sleeves are worked in stocking stitch with ribbed edgings, then seamed together for a professional finish.

---

## SIZING
Large: To fit bust 42-44" (107-112cm)  
**Finished bust measurement:** 44" (112cm) with approximately 0-2" (0-5cm) positive ease

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:** Approximately 1100-1200 metres DK weight yarn (8-ply, light worsted)  
Sample shown uses a standard DK yarn at 115m per 50g ball = approximately 10-11 balls

**Needles:**
- 3.75mm (UK 9, US 5) straight needles for ribbing
- 4mm (UK 8, US 6) straight needles for main body
- 4mm (UK 8, US 6) circular needle, 40cm (16") length for neckband
- Or sizes needed to obtain tension

**Notions:**
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- 4 stitch markers (optional, for tracking shaping)

---

## TENSION
**22 stitches and 30 rows = 10cm (4")** in stocking stitch on 4mm needles after blocking

**TENSION IS CRITICAL:** Please take time to check your tension. If you have more stitches per 10cm, use larger needles. If you have fewer stitches, use smaller needles.

To check: Cast on 28 sts, work in stocking stitch for 12cm, measure the central 10cm square.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

- **Jumper/Pullover** is worked flat in pieces (Back, Front, Sleeves) then seamed
- All pieces begin with ribbing worked on smaller needles
- Body and sleeves worked in **stocking stitch** (RS: knit, WS: purl)
- **Set-in sleeve construction** creates shaped armholes and sleeve caps
- Seam using mattress stitch for invisible joins
- Neckband is picked up and worked in the round after assembly

**Abbreviations:**
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease): slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, insert left needle through front of both sts and knit together
- St st = stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
- inc = increase by knitting into front and back of stitch (kfb)
- BO = bind off (cast off)
- cont = continue
- beg = beginning
- rem = remaining
- dec = decrease

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### BACK

**Ribbing:**
Using 3.75mm needles, cast on 124 sts.

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.  
Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

**Math check:** 124 sts ÷ 4 = 31 repeats ✓

Repeat these 2 rows until ribbing measures 6cm (2.5"), ending with a WS row.

**Body:**
Change to 4mm needles.

Beginning with a knit (RS) row, work in St st (knit on RS, purl on WS) until piece measures 35.5cm (14") from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Current stitch count:** 124 sts  
**Math check:** 56cm width × 2.2 sts/cm = 123 sts (rounded to 124 for ribbing divisibility) ✓

**Armhole Shaping:**
BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. **[112 sts remain]**

**Math check:** 124 - (6 × 2) = 112 sts ✓

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[110 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 more times. **[100 sts remain]**

**Math check:** 112 - (2 × 6) = 100 sts ✓

Continue in St st without further shaping until armhole measures 20cm (8") from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

**Total length:** 35.5cm + 20cm = 55.5cm (22") ✓

**Shoulder and Neck Shaping:**

**First Shoulder:**
Next row (RS): BO 10 sts, knit until there are 24 sts on right needle after bind-off, turn and place remaining 66 sts on holder.

Working on these 24 sts only:
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): BO 10 sts, knit to end. **[14 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): BO remaining 14 sts.

**Math check:** 10 + 10 + 14 = 34 sts for shoulder ✓

**Back Neck:**
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to held sts.  
BO centre 32 sts, knit to end. **[34 sts remain for second shoulder]**

**Math check:** 100 sts - 34 (first shoulder) - 32 (back neck) = 34 sts ✓  
**Neck width:** 32 sts ÷ 2.2 sts/cm = 14.5cm (5.75") ✓

**Second Shoulder:**
Next row (WS): BO 10 sts, purl to end. **[24 sts]**  
Next row (RS): Knit.  
Next row (WS): BO 10 sts, purl to end. **[14 sts]**  
Next row (RS): Knit.  
Next row (WS): BO remaining 14 sts.

---

### FRONT

Work exactly as for Back until armhole measures 14cm (5.5") from beginning of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

**Current stitch count:** 100 sts (same as Back at this point) ✓

**Neck Shaping:**

**First Side:**
Next row (RS): K38, turn and place remaining 62 sts on holder.

Working on these 38 sts only:
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[37 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times. **[34 sts]**

**Math check:** 38 - 4 = 34 sts ✓

Continue in St st without further shaping until armhole measures 20cm (8"), same as Back, ending with a WS row.

**Shoulder Shaping (First Side):**
Next row (RS): BO 10 sts, knit to end. **[24 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): BO 10 sts, knit to end. **[14 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): BO remaining 14 sts.

**Front Neck:**
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to held sts.  
BO centre 24 sts, knit to end. **[38 sts]**

**Math check:** 100 - 38 (first side) - 24 (centre neck) = 38 sts ✓  
**Front neck width:** 24 sts ÷ 2.2 sts/cm = 10.9cm (4.3") ✓ (narrower than back neck, appropriate for pullover)

**Second Side:**
Next row (WS): Purl.  
Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to end. **[37 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 3 more times. **[34 sts]**

Continue in St st without further shaping until armhole measures 20cm (8"), same as Back, ending with a RS row.

**Shoulder Shaping (Second Side):**
Next row (WS): BO 10 sts, purl to end. **[24 sts]**  
Next row (RS): Knit.  
Next row (WS): BO 10 sts, purl to end. **[14 sts]**  
Next row (RS): Knit.  
Next row (WS): BO remaining 14 sts.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2)

**Cuff Ribbing:**
Using 3.75mm needles, cast on 48 sts.

Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.  
Row 2 (WS): *K2, p2; repeat from * to end.

**Math check:** 48 sts ÷ 4 = 12 repeats ✓  
**Cuff width:** 48 sts ÷ 2.2 sts/cm = 21.8cm (8.6"), appropriate for ladies Large ✓

Repeat these 2 rows until cuff measures 6cm (2.5"), ending with a WS row.

**Sleeve Body:**
Change to 4mm needles.

Beginning with a knit (RS) row, work in St st AND AT THE SAME TIME increase as follows:

Work 7 rows even in St st.

**Increase row (RS):** K1, inc in next st, knit to last 2 sts, inc in next st, k1. **[50 sts]**

**Math check:** 48 + 2 = 50 sts ✓

Repeat these 8 rows (7 even rows, then 1 increase row) **19 more times**. **[88 sts]**

**Math check:** 48 + (2 × 20 increases) = 48 + 40 = 88 sts ✓  
**Upper arm width:** 88 sts ÷ 2.2 sts/cm = 40cm (15.75") ✓

**Rows worked:** 8 rows × 20 = 160 rows  
**Length:** 160 rows ÷ 3 rows/cm = 53.3cm - 6cm cuff = 37.3cm from end of cuff

Continue even in St st until sleeve measures 43cm (17") from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

**Sleeve Cap Shaping:**
BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. **[76 sts]**

**Math check:** 88 - 12 = 76 sts ✓

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[74 sts]**  
Next row (WS): Purl.

Repeat these 2 rows 5 more times. **[64 sts]**

**Math check:** 76 - (2 × 6) = 64 sts ✓

Next row (RS): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. **[62 sts]**  
Next row (WS): P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, p2tog tbl, p1. **[60 sts]**

Repeat these 2 rows 7 more times. **[44 sts]**

**Math check:** 64 - (4 × 8) = 64 - 32 = 32... recalculating:  
64 - (4 dec × 8 repeats) = 64 - 32 = 32 sts. Wait, we want 44 sts.  
Let me recalculate: 64 - 60