CLASSIC SET-IN SLEEVE PULLOVER

Mockneck or Round Neck · Short-Sleeve (T-shirt) or Full-Length · Worked Flat from the Hem Up

A traditional pullover in the style of the old favourites — cast on, work your ribbing, and up you go in stocking stitch. Only the collar calls for a set of circular or double-pointed needles; everything else is worked on ordinary straight needles.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted-weight (10 ply) pure wool
  • Approximate quantities (long-sleeved version):
    • Small: 900 m (approx. 9 × 50 g balls)
    • Medium: 1000 m (approx. 10 balls)
    • Large: 1100 m (approx. 11 balls)
    • XL: 1200 m (approx. 12 balls)
    • 2XL: 1300 m (approx. 13 balls)
  • For the short-sleeve (t-shirt) version, allow 2 balls fewer.
• Needles:
  • 1 pair 3.25 mm (old UK No. 10) straight needles — main needles
  • 1 pair 3.00 mm (old UK No. 11) straight needles — for ribbing
  • 1 short 3.25 mm circular needle or a set of 3.25 mm double-pointed needles — collar only
• Notions: wool needle for seaming, stitch holders or spare yarn, stitch markers.

A note for the loose knitter: This design is usually a 4 mm (No. 8) pattern. Because you knit loosely, we have dropped to 3.25 mm for the body and 3.00 mm for the ribbing to bring you to tension. Always knit the swatch below before starting.

TENSION (GAUGE)

20 sts and 26 rows to 10 cm (4 in) over stocking stitch on 3.25 mm needles.

Cast on 26 sts and work 36 rows in stocking stitch. Cast off, press lightly, and measure the centre. If you have more stitches to 10 cm, go up a needle size; if fewer, go down a size. Correct tension is essential for fit.

SIZES

Figures are given for the smallest size first, with larger sizes in brackets thereafter: S (M, L, XL, 2XL). Where only one figure is given, it applies to all sizes.

ABBREVIATIONS

k = knit; p = purl; st(s) = stitch(es); st st = stocking stitch (k on right side, p on wrong side); beg = beginning; rem = remaining; rep = repeat; cont = continue; RS = right side; WS = wrong side; k2tog = knit 2 together; ssk = slip, slip, knit these 2 sts together; tog = together; foll = following; alt = alternate; inc = increase (work into front and back of st, "kfb").

BACK

Using 3.00 mm needles, cast on 90 (100, 110, 120, 130) sts.

Rib row: *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep this row until the ribbing measures 5 cm (2 in) from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to 3.25 mm needles. Beginning with a knit row, work in st st until the Back measures 40 cm (15¾ in) from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes (set-in)

Cast off 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. → 82 (92, 102, 112, 122) sts.

Next row (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: purl. Rep these 2 rows 5 more times (6 decrease rows in all). → 70 (80, 90, 100, 110) sts. (6 decreases removed 12 sts: 82 − 12 = 70 ✓)

Cont straight in st st until the armhole measures 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) cm / 8 (8¼, 8¾, 9, 9½) in, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders

Cast off 10 (12, 14, 15, 17) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. → 50 (56, 62, 70, 76) sts. Cast off 10 (12, 13, 15, 16) sts at the beg of the foll 2 rows. → 30 (32, 36, 40, 44) sts. (shoulders: 10+10 = 20 S, matches Front)

Leave the rem 30 (32, 36, 40, 44) sts on a holder for the back neck.

FRONT

Work exactly as for the Back — including the armhole shaping — until the armhole measures 13 (13, 14, 15, 15) cm / 5 (5, 5½, 6, 6) in, ending with a WS row. You will have 70 (80, 90, 100, 110) sts.

Shape front neck

Next row (RS): k28 (32, 35, 39, 43), turn and leave the rem sts on a holder. Work each side of the neck separately.

Left side: Row 1 (WS): purl. Row 2 (RS): k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Rep these 2 rows until 20 (24, 27, 30, 33) sts rem. (28 − 8 = 20 S ✓) Cont straight until the armhole measures the same as the Back to the shoulder, ending at the armhole edge (WS row).

Shape shoulder: Cast off 10 (12, 14, 15, 17) sts at the beg of the next row. Purl 1 row. Cast off rem 10 (12, 13, 15, 16) sts.

Right side: With RS facing, slip the centre 14 (16, 20, 22, 24) sts onto a holder for the front neck, rejoin yarn to rem sts, k to end. → 28 (32, 35, 39, 43) sts. Row 1 (WS): purl. Row 2 (RS): k1, ssk, k to end. Rep these 2 rows until 20 (24, 27, 30, 33) sts rem. Cont straight until the armhole matches the Back, ending at the armhole edge (RS row so you cast off on WS — work to end and turn).

Shape shoulder: Cast off 10 (12, 14, 15, 17) sts at the beg of the next row (WS). Knit 1 row. Cast off rem 10 (12, 13, 15, 16) sts.

Neck check (S): centre 14 + two neck decreases of 8 each = 14 + 8 + 8 = 30 = back neck 30 ✓

SLEEVES (make two)

Choose either the long sleeve or the short (t-shirt) sleeve. Both begin the same way.

Using 3.00 mm needles, cast on 42 (44, 46, 48, 50) sts. Rib row: *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep until ribbing measures 5 cm (2 in), ending with a WS row. Change to 3.25 mm needles. Beginning with a knit row, work in st st.

FULL-LENGTH SLEEVE

Inc row (RS): k2, kfb, k to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. (2 sts increased) Working the increase row and then 7 (7, 6, 6, 5) plain rows between, rep the inc row until you have 72 (76, 82, 86, 92) sts. (S: 42 + 30 = 72, i.e. 15 inc rows ✓) Cont straight until the sleeve measures 44 (44, 45, 45, 46) cm / 17½ (17½, 17¾, 17¾, 18) in from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Proceed to Shape sleeve cap below.

SHORT (T-SHIRT) SLEEVE

Inc row (RS): k2, kfb, k to last 3 sts, kfb, k2. (2 sts increased) Working the inc row and then 3 (3, 3, 3, 3) plain rows between, rep until you have 60 (64, 70, 74, 80) sts. (S: 42 + 18 = 60, i.e. 9 inc rows ✓) Cont straight until the sleeve measures 13 (13, 14, 14, 15) cm / 5 (5, 5½, 5½, 6) in from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Proceed to Shape sleeve cap.

SHAPE SLEEVE CAP (both versions)

Cast off 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. → Long: 64 (68, 74, 78, 84) sts · Short: 52 (56, 62, 66, 72) sts.

Next row (RS): k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Next row: purl. Rep these 2 rows until 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts rem. Then cast off 3 sts at the beg of the next 4 rows. → 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) sts. Cast off rem sts.

MAKING UP

Press all pieces lightly on the wrong side under a damp cloth, following the ball band, avoiding the ribbing.

1. Join right shoulder seam using mattress stitch or backstitch.
2. Work the collar (see below) before joining the left shoulder if you prefer to work flat — otherwise join the left shoulder seam now and work the collar in the round.
3. Set in each sleeve: match the centre of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam and the underarm cast-offs to the body armhole cast-offs, and sew in place, easing the cap smoothly.
4. Join the side and sleeve seams in one continuous line from cuff to hem.
5. Weave in all ends.

COLLAR

You may choose a round neck or a mockneck. Both are worked in the round, so join both shoulder seams first, then use the 3.25 mm circular needle or double-pointed needles.

With RS facing, beginning at the left shoulder seam, pick up and knit stitches evenly around the neck as follows:

• Back neck (from holder): knit the 30 (32, 36, 40, 44) held sts.
• Left front neck edge: pick up and knit 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) sts down the shaped edge.
• Front neck (from holder): knit the 14 (16, 20, 22, 24) held sts.
• Right front neck edge: pick up and knit 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) sts up the shaped edge.

Total: 76 (80, 92, 98, 108) sts. (all even → suitable for k1, p1 rib ✓)

Place a marker and join to work in the round.

ROUND NECK OPTION

Round: *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep this round until the collar measures 3 cm (1¼ in). Cast off loosely in rib. (A loose cast-off is essential so the neck stretches over the head.)

MOCKNECK OPTION

Round: *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep this round until the collar measures 12 cm (4¾ in), or your preferred mockneck height. Cast off loosely in rib.

If you would rather avoid the circular/double-pointed needles entirely, you may instead work either collar flat: leave the left shoulder open, pick up the same total of stitches along the neck with a straight needle, work back and forth in k1, p1 rib to the required depth, cast off loosely in rib, then sew the left shoulder seam and the short collar seam.

FINISHING

Give the finished garment a final light press, avoiding all ribbing. Your classic pullover is ready to wear.

Schematic (finished measurements, half-width across):

• Back/Front width at hem: 45 (50, 55, 60, 65) cm = 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) in each → 91 (102, 112, 122, 132) cm round ✓
• Total length: 61 (62, 64, 65, 66) cm = 24 (24½, 25, 25½, 26) in ✓

Enjoy your knitting.