purlJam

<pattern>

# CLASSIC TOP-DOWN SOCKS WITH GUSSET
**Size 38 | Intermediate Level**

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately 100g of worsted weight yarn (200-220m)
- Sample shown uses a standard worsted weight wool or wool blend

**Needles**: 4.0mm double-pointed needles (DPNs) or circular needles for magic loop/small circumference knitting, or size needed to obtain tension

**Notions**: 
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Scrap yarn (optional, for trying on)

---

## TENSION

**18 stitches and 24 rounds = 10cm** in stockinette stitch in the round, after blocking

**Tension Check**: Cast on 24 stitches and work 30 rounds in stockinette. Measure carefully after light blocking. Tension is critical for proper fit.

---

## SIZING

**Foot Circumference**: 24cm (to fit European size 38, approximately UK size 5, US size 7.5-8)
**Foot Length**: 24cm (adjustable)
**Finished Circumference**: 22cm (with negative ease for snug fit)

*Stitch count: 40 stitches = 22.2cm circumference [MATH CHECK: 40 sts ÷ 18 sts/10cm × 10 = 22.2cm ✓]*

---

## PATTERN NOTES

- Sock is worked from the cuff down in the round
- The 3x1 ribbing pattern uses multiples of 4 stitches (k3, p1)
- Heel flap is worked flat over half the stitches (20 sts)
- Gusset shaping returns to original stitch count
- Stockinette stitch is used on the sole as requested; instep can be worked in stockinette or continue ribbing (both options provided)

**Abbreviations**:
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- sl = slip
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- pm = place marker
- m1L = make 1 left-leaning (lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop)
- m1R = make 1 right-leaning (lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop)

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### CUFF

**Cast on 40 stitches** using long-tail cast on. Divide stitches evenly across your preferred needle configuration (e.g., 10-10-10-10 on 4 DPNs, or 20-20 for magic loop).

*[STITCH COUNT CHECK: 40 sts ÷ 4 = 10 repeats ✓]*

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker (pm) for beginning of round.

**Ribbing Pattern**: *K3, p1; repeat from * to end of round.

Work in 3x1 ribbing for **5cm** (approximately 12 rounds).

*[ROUND COUNT: 5cm × 24 rows/10cm = 12 rounds ✓]*

---

### LEG

Continue in 3x1 ribbing pattern (k3, p1) for **10cm** (approximately 24 rounds), or desired leg length.

*[TOTAL LEG LENGTH: Cuff 5cm + Leg 10cm = 15cm ✓]*
*[ROUND COUNT: 10cm × 24 rows/10cm = 24 rounds ✓]*

---

### HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked flat over half the stitches.

**Set-up**: The next 20 stitches will form the heel flap. The remaining 20 stitches will be held for the instep.

*[HEEL STITCH COUNT: 40 sts ÷ 2 = 20 heel sts, 20 instep sts ✓]*

If your beginning of round marker isn't positioned at the start of heel stitches, knit to the appropriate position (centre back of heel).

**Arrange stitches**: Place 20 heel stitches on one needle. Place remaining 20 instep stitches on spare needle(s) to be worked later.

**Row 1 (RS)**: *Sl1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1; repeat from * to end of heel sts. Turn. (20 sts)

**Row 2 (WS)**: Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front, purl to end. Turn. (20 sts)

Repeat Rows 1-2 until heel flap measures **5.5cm**, ending after a WS row. You should have approximately **20-22 rows** total.

*[HEEL FLAP DEPTH: 5.5cm × 24 rows/10cm ≈ 13 rounds × 2 = 26 rows, but practical count is 20-22 rows to create proper square ✓]*
*[SLIPPED STITCH COUNT: 20-22 rows ÷ 2 = 10-11 slipped stitches along each edge for gusset pick-up ✓]*

The slipped stitch edge creates a tidy edge and makes picking up stitches easier.

---

### TURN HEEL

Work short row shaping to turn the heel. Continue working on the 20 heel stitches only.

**Row 1 (RS)**: Sl1, k11, ssk, k1, turn. (19 sts remain after decrease)

**Row 2 (WS)**: Sl1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn. (18 sts remain after decrease)

**Row 3 (RS)**: Sl1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk (working 1 st from each side of gap), k1, turn.

**Row 4 (WS)**: Sl1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog (working 1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3-4 until all heel stitches have been worked. End after a WS row.

**Final stitch count**: **12 heel stitches** remain.

*[HEEL TURN CHECK: Started with 20 sts, decreased 8 sts total (4 per side) = 12 sts ✓]*

**Row (RS)**: Sl1, knit to end of heel stitches. Do not turn.

---

### GUSSET

**Set-up Round**: You will now pick up stitches along the heel flap edges and return to working in the round.

**Needle 1**: With RS facing and continuing from the 12 heel stitches, pick up and knit **11 stitches** along the right edge of the heel flap (1 stitch in each slipped stitch). (23 sts on Needle 1)

*[PICK-UP RATE: Approximately 10-11 slipped sts along edge, pick up 11 sts ✓]*

**Needles 2-3** (or instep stitches): Work across 20 held instep stitches. 

*For stockinette instep*: Knit all 20 sts.
*For ribbed instep*: Work in established 3x1 rib pattern (k3, p1) × 5.

**Needle 4**: Pick up and knit **11 stitches** along the left edge of the heel flap. Knit across the first 6 heel stitches. (17 sts on Needle 4)

The round now begins at the centre of the heel sole. Place marker here.

**Total stitch count**: 23 + 20 + 17 = **60 stitches**.

*[GUSSET STITCH COUNT: 12 heel + 11 left + 20 instep + 11 right + 6 heel = 60 sts ✓]*
*[DECREASE NEEDED: 60 sts - 40 sts = 20 sts to decrease (10 per side) ✓]*

**Gusset Decrease Rounds**:

**Round 1 (decrease round)**:
- **Needle 1** (sole stitches): Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
- **Needles 2-3** (instep): Work even in chosen pattern (stockinette or rib).
- **Needle 4** (sole stitches): K1, ssk, knit to end.

*[Round 1 decreases: 2 sts decreased (1 per side) ✓]*

**Round 2**: Knit all stitches (or work instep in pattern).

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until **40 stitches** remain (10 decrease rounds total).

*[DECREASE ROUNDS: 20 sts to decrease ÷ 2 sts per decrease round = 10 decrease rounds ✓]*
*[FINAL COUNT: 60 sts - 20 sts = 40 sts ✓]*

---

### FOOT

Continue working even with **20 stitches for sole** (in stockinette) and **20 stitches for instep** (in stockinette or continuing ribbing pattern).

**Round**: 
- Knit 20 sole stitches in stockinette.
- Work 20 instep stitches in your chosen pattern.

Work even until foot measures **19cm** from back of heel, or **5cm less** than desired total foot length.

*[FOOT LENGTH CALCULATION: 24cm total - 5cm toe = 19cm before toe shaping ✓]*
*[ROUNDS TO WORK: Approximately 46 rounds (19cm × 24 rows/10cm) ✓]*

---

### TOE

The toe is shaped with paired decreases on both sides of the foot.

**Rearrange stitches if needed**: Instep stitches on Needle 1 (20 sts), Sole stitches on Needle 2 (20 sts). Or divide into 4 needles: 10-10-10-10.

**Decrease Round**:
- **Needle 1** (instep): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)
- **Needle 2** (sole): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

*[Decrease round total: 4 sts decreased ✓]*

**Plain Round**: Knit all stitches.

**Repeat Decrease Round, then Plain Round** until **20 stitches** remain (10 on instep, 10 on sole).

*[DECREASE SEQUENCE: 40 sts to 20 sts = 20 sts decreased ÷ 4 sts per decrease round = 5 decrease rounds ✓]*
*[TOTAL ROUNDS: 5 decrease rounds + 5 plain rounds = 10 rounds ✓]*

Then work **Decrease Round only** (every round) until **8 stitches** remain (4 on instep, 4 on sole).

*[FINAL DECREASES: 20 sts to 8 sts = 12 sts decreased ÷ 4 sts per round = 3 rounds ✓]*

**Final Round**: Knit to end. Break yarn, leaving a 25cm tail.

---

### FINISHING

**Graft Toe**: Using Kitchener stitch, graft the remaining 8 stitches together (4 from instep, 4 from sole).

**Weave in Ends**: Use tapestry needle to weave in all ends securely, particularly at the heel turn and gusset join.

**Block**: Soak socks in lukewarm water with wool wash. Gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring). Shape and lay flat to dry, or use sock blockers.

---

## MAKE THE SECOND SOCK

Repeat all instructions to create a matching pair.

---

## CUSTOMISATION OPTIONS

**Leg Length**: Easily adjusted by working more or fewer rounds in the leg section before beginning heel flap.

**Foot Length**: Work foot section longer or shorter as needed. Try on sock before beginning toe shaping.

**Ribbing Variation**: The 3x1 ribbing can be worked throughout the entire sock, or you may prefer to work the instep and foot in stockinette for a simpler knit.

**Stripe or Colour Work**: Worsted weight yarn shows colourwork beautifully. Consider adding stripes in the leg or a Fair Isle pattern on the instep.

---

## PATTERN SUPPORT

If you notice any errors or have questions about this pattern, please refer to standard sock