purlJam

# Cloud Crop — Cropped Oversized Raglan Turtleneck with Balloon Sleeves

A cozy, slightly oversized cropped pullover in DK weight yarn. Worked flat in four separate pieces from the bottom up, featuring decorative fully-fashioned raglan seams that frame the yoke, dramatic gathered balloon sleeves, and a tall folded turtleneck picked up after seaming.

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## Sizes

XS (S, **M**, L, XL)
To fit bust: 32–34 (34–36, **38–40**, 42–44, 46–48)" / 81–86 (86–91, **96–101**, 106–112, 117–122) cm

**Finished measurements:**
- Bust circumference: 39 (42, **44**, 47, 50)" / 99 (107, **112**, 119, 127) cm — designed with 5–6" / 12–15 cm positive ease
- Total length (hem to shoulder): 14 (14.5, **15**, 15.5, 16)" / 35.5 (37, **38**, 39.5, 40.5) cm — cropped
- Sleeve length (cuff to underarm): 16 (16.5, **17**, 17.5, 18)" / 40.5 (42, **43**, 44.5, 45.5) cm
- Turtleneck height: 7" / 18 cm (folds to ~3.5" / 9 cm)

Sample shown in size **M**.

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## Materials

**Yarn:** DK weight (light worsted), wool or wool blend recommended for memory and bloom.
- Approx. yardage: 1000 (1100, **1200**, 1350, 1500) yds / 915 (1005, **1100**, 1235, 1370) m

**Needles:**
- US 6 / 4 mm straight needles (main fabric)
- US 4 / 3.5 mm straight needles (hem and cuff ribbing)
- US 6 / 4 mm 16" circular needle (turtleneck)
- US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" circular needle (turtleneck ribbing)

**Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, removable markers.

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## Gauge

- **22 sts × 30 rows = 4" / 10 cm** in stockinette stitch on US 6 / 4 mm, blocked.
- 24 sts × 32 rows = 4" / 10 cm in 2x2 ribbing, relaxed, on US 4 / 3.5 mm.

*Take time to check gauge — fit depends on it.*

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## Abbreviations

- **k / p** — knit / purl
- **k2tog** — knit 2 together (right-leaning dec)
- **ssk** — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec)
- **p2tog / ssp** — purl decreases
- **CO / BO** — cast on / bind off
- **RS / WS** — right side / wrong side
- **st(s)** — stitch(es)
- **rep** — repeat
- **sl1 wyib** — slip 1 stitch with yarn in back

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## Special Techniques

**Decorative Raglan Decrease (DRD):**
On RS rows: K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
On WS rows: P2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, ssp, p2.
This places fully-fashioned decreases 2 sts in from each edge, creating a clean decorative line that highlights the raglan seam after mattress stitch seaming.

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## Construction Notes

The jumper is worked flat in four pieces (Back, Front, two Sleeves) on straight needles, from the bottom hem upward. Raglan shaping decreases the body and sleeve tops simultaneously, leaving decorative seams when assembled. After seaming three of the four raglan lines, stitches are picked up around the neckline and the turtleneck is worked in the round. The remaining raglan and side seams are then closed.

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## BACK

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO **108 (116, 122, 130, 138)** sts.

**Rib hem:**
- Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
- Row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
- Rep Rows 1–2 until rib measures 1.5" / 4 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

**Body:**
Work in stockinette st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 8 (8, **8.5**, 8.5, 9)" / 20.5 (20.5, **21.5**, 21.5, 23) cm from CO, ending after a WS row.

*Validation:* 108 sts ÷ 22 sts/4" = 19.6" → 19.6 × 2 sides ≈ 39.3" finished bust for XS ✓.
For M: 122 ÷ 22 × 4 = 22.18" × 2 = 44.4" ✓.

### Raglan Shaping — Back

**Underarm BO:**
- Row 1 (RS): BO 4 sts, knit to end. *[104 (112, 118, 126, 134) sts]*
- Row 2 (WS): BO 4 sts, purl to end. *[100 (108, 114, 122, 130) sts]*

**Decorative Raglan Decreases:**
- **Dec Row (RS):** K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. *[2 sts dec'd]*
- **Dec Row (WS):** P2, p2tog, purl to last 4 sts, ssp, p2. *[2 sts dec'd]*

Work Dec Row every row (i.e., every RS and every WS row) for **2 rows**, then work Dec Row every RS row only and purl WS rows plain, until **40 (42, 44, 46, 48)** sts remain.

*Validation, size M:* Start 114 sts → end 44 sts = 70 sts dec'd. First 2 rows dec 4 sts → 110 sts. Remaining 66 sts dec'd at 2 sts per RS row = 33 RS rows → 66 rows. Total raglan rows: 2 + 66 = 68 rows ÷ 30 rows/4" = 9.07" / 23 cm raglan depth ✓.

BO all sts loosely.

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## FRONT

Work exactly as for Back until **48 (50, 52, 54, 56)** sts remain after raglan shaping (i.e., stop 4 dec rows / 8 sts earlier than Back).

### Front Neck Shaping

**Next Row (RS):** Work Dec Row across first 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts as established (k2, ssk, knit remaining sts of left shoulder), BO center **20 (20, 20, 20, 20)** sts, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Working each shoulder separately:

**Right shoulder (as worn) — first set of sts on needle, with WS facing rejoin yarn:**
- WS Row: BO 2 sts at neck edge, purl to last 4 sts, ssp, p2.
- RS Row: K2, ssk, knit to last 2 sts at neck edge, k2tog (neck dec).
- Rep last 2 rows until 0 sts remain. Fasten off.

**Left shoulder:** Mirror shaping, BO 2 sts at neck edge on RS rows, decreasing at both raglan and neck edges every RS row until 0 sts remain.

*Note:* The exact final rows will work out evenly because front neck and raglan decreases consume the remaining sts simultaneously — work neck BOs of 2 sts twice, then single neck decs every RS row alongside raglan decs to zero. Fasten off remaining st.

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO **44 (44, 48, 48, 52)** sts.

**Cuff:**
- Row 1 (RS): K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
- Row 2 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
- Rep until cuff measures 2.5" / 6.5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

**Gather/Increase Row (RS):** *K1, kfb; rep from * to end.
*[88 (88, 96, 96, 104) sts]*

This doubling creates the dramatic balloon volume above the cuff.

**Sleeve Body:**
Beginning with a WS purl row, work in stockinette st until piece measures **17 (17.5, 18, 18.5, 19)" / 43 (44.5, 46, 47, 48)** cm from CO, ending after a WS row.

*Designer note:* The sleeve does NOT taper — it remains full width all the way to the underarm to maintain the balloon silhouette. The volume gathers softly above the cuff.

### Raglan Cap Shaping — Sleeve

**Underarm BO:**
- Row 1 (RS): BO 4 sts, knit to end.
- Row 2 (WS): BO 4 sts, purl to end. *[80 (80, 88, 88, 96) sts]*

**Decorative Raglan Decreases:**
- Work Dec Row both RS and WS for **2 rows** *[76 (76, 84, 84, 92) sts]*.
- Then work Dec Row every RS row, purl plain on WS, until **14 (14, 16, 16, 18)** sts remain.

*Validation, size M:* 84 sts → 16 sts = 68 sts dec'd at 2 sts/RS row = 34 RS rows = 68 rows. Plus 2 initial rows = 70 rows ÷ 30 rows/4" = 9.33" / 23.7 cm. Should match Back raglan depth (~9.07"); the extra 2 rows of sleeve cap match the 4 extra sts at top, easing into the neckline ✓.

BO all sts loosely.

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## FINISHING

### Blocking
Wet-block all four pieces to schematic measurements before seaming. Pin the raglan edges straight to emphasize the decorative decrease line. Allow to dry fully.

### Seaming Raglan Lines
Using mattress stitch and matching yarn, seam **three of the four raglan edges**, leaving one back raglan (e.g., back-left-sleeve) open for collar pickup access. Seam order:
1. Front-left-sleeve raglan
2. Front-right-sleeve raglan
3. Back-right-sleeve raglan

The fully-fashioned decreases will sit just inside the seam line, framing each raglan as a decorative chain.

### Turtleneck Collar

With RS facing and US 6 / 4 mm 16" circular needle, beginning at the open back raglan, pick up and knit stitches around the neck opening as follows:
- Across each sleeve top: **14 (14, 16, 16, 18)** sts (knit live BO sts directly, or pick up 1 st per BO st)
- Across back neck: **40 (42, 44, 46, 48)** sts
- Down left front neck slope: **12** sts
- Across front neck BO: **20** sts
- Up right front neck slope: **12** sts

**Total: 112 (114, 120, 124, 130) sts** — adjust on next round if needed to a multiple of 4.

For size M, target **120 sts** (multiple of 4 ✓).

Now seam the final (back-left) raglan using mattress stitch.

Join collar in the round; place marker for beginning of round.

**Round 1:** *K2, p2; rep from * around.

Continue in 2x2 rib until collar measures **3" / 7.5 cm**.

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm 16" circular needle. Continue in 2x2 rib until collar measures **7" / 18 cm** total.

BO very loosely in pattern (use a stretchy bind-off such as Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off).

### Side and Sleeve Seams

With WS facing, seam each sleeve from cuff to underarm using mattress stitch. Seam side seams from hem to underarm. Carefully close the underarm corners by weaving in the BO corner sts.

### Final Steps

Weave in all ends on the WS, working along seam lines where possible. Steam-block the turtleneck lightly into shape and fold over once for wear.

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## Schematic Measurements (size M)

- Hem width (flat): 22.2" / 56 cm
- Underarm width (flat): 22.2" / 56 cm
- Body length to underarm: 8.5" / 21.5 cm
- Raglan depth: 9" / 23 cm
- Total length: 17.5" / 44.5 cm (before turtleneck)
- Sleeve cuff: 8" / 20 cm circumference
- Sleeve at fullest (above cuff): 17.5" / 44.5 cm circumference
- Sleeve length to underarm: 17" / 43 cm
- Sleeve cap depth: 9.3" / 23.7 cm
- Neck opening: ~21.8" / 55 cm circumference
- Turtleneck height: 7" / 18 cm

Enjoy your Cloud Crop! 🧶