Cotswold Cardigan

Seamless top-down raglan cardigan with integrated neckband Cotton DK · Advanced

A crew-neck cardigan worked in one piece from the neck down. The neckband is cast on and knitted with the body — there is no picking up around the neck. Raglan increases shape the yoke; sleeves are set aside at the underarm and the body continues to the hem. Sleeves are worked in the round from the held stitches. Button bands are picked up along the front edges.

Cotton has little elasticity and grows with wear. Rib on the smaller needles, block gently, and do not stretch the rib.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) To fit bust 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) in

Numbers are given as S (M, L, XL, 2XL). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes. Highlight your size throughout.

Recommended ease: 5–11 cm (2–4¼ in) positive ease at the bust. Choose the size whose finished bust is 5–11 cm larger than your actual bust.

Finished measurements (after blocking)

Yarn

DK-weight cotton (or cotton blend), approx. 125 m / 50 g. 1100 (1250, 1450, 1650, 1900) m / 1200 (1370, 1590, 1800, 2080) yd 10 (11, 13, 15, 17) balls of 50 g / 125 m

Allow extra if you lengthen the body or sleeves. Cotton varies in metreage — always match metres, not ball count.

Suggested yarns: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (125 m / 50 g); King Cole Cottonsoft DK (210 m / 100 g — you will need 6 (6, 7, 8, 10) × 100 g balls); Rico Baby Cotton Soft DK; Cascade Ultra Pima Fine (held to DK tension).

Sample colour: a solid or heathered shade; the raglan lines read clearly in a light-to-mid colour.

Needles

• 4 mm circular, 80–100 cm, for the body (or size needed to obtain tension)
• 3.5 mm circular, 80–100 cm, for neckband, hem and button bands
• 4 mm and 3.5 mm DPNs, short circular, or long circular for magic loop — sleeves and cuffs

Change needle size if necessary to obtain tension.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (plus 1 unique marker for sleeve beginning)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons, 15–18 mm diameter

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking.

Work a swatch at least 15 cm square, wet-block, and measure the centre. Cotton relaxes: if your blocked swatch is larger than 22 sts / 10 cm, go down a needle size. Tension is critical for fit.

Rib tension is not specified; using 3.5 mm for all rib keeps bands firm in cotton.

Abbreviations (UK)

k knit · p purl · st(s) stitch(es) · RS right side · WS wrong side · rnd(s) round(s) · pm place marker · sm slip marker · rm remove marker · sl slip · wyif with yarn in front · st st stocking stitch (knit RS, purl WS; knit every rnd in the round) · k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning dec) · ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec) · yo yarn over · rep repeat · rem remain(ing) · cont continue · meas measures · CO cast on · DS double stitch (German short row)

m1l (make 1 left, RS): with left needle, lift the strand between needles from front to back; knit through the back loop.

m1r (make 1 right, RS): with left needle, lift the strand between needles from back to front; knit through the front loop.

m1lp (make 1 left, WS / purl): with left needle, lift the strand from front to back; purl through the back loop.

m1rp (make 1 right, WS / purl): with left needle, lift the strand from back to front; purl through the front loop.

Work all lifted increases loosely so the raglan line does not pucker, especially in cotton.

Construction notes

• Worked flat from the neck to the underarm and through the body; sleeves are worked in the round.
• The neckband is the cast-on rib — do not pick up stitches around the neck later.
• Four markers divide Right Front | Right Sleeve | Back | Left Sleeve | Left Front. The RS row begins at the Right Front (as worn).
• Raglan line: 2 knit stitches (the stitch before and the stitch after each marker) with increases slanting away from them.
• Phase A increases every row (RS and WS) at all four raglans. Phase B increases every RS row at all four raglans. Phase C increases every RS row on the body side only, so the sleeves stop growing while the fronts and back reach bust width.
• German short rows raise the back neck. The front yoke is shorter than the back; the underarm is level.
• Buttonholes sit on the Right Front as worn (wearer’s right). For a men’s-style closure, work the buttonholes on the Left Front band instead.

Integrated neckband

With 3.5 mm circular needle and a stretchy cast-on (long-tail, or tubular if you prefer), cast on 98 (106, 114, 122, 130) sts, placing markers as you go:

Cast on 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) Right Front sts, pm, 16 (18, 18, 20, 22) Right Sleeve sts, pm, 38 (42, 46, 50, 50) Back sts, pm, 16 (18, 18, 20, 22) Left Sleeve sts, pm, 14 (14, 16, 16, 18) Left Front sts.

Check: 14+16+38+16+14 = 98 ✓ · 14+18+42+18+14 = 106 ✓ · 16+18+46+18+16 = 114 ✓ · 16+20+50+20+16 = 122 ✓ · 18+22+50+22+18 = 130 ✓

Work 2×2 rib as follows, slipping markers as you meet them:

Row 1 (RS): k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

These two rows form the rib. Cont until the neckband meas 3.5 cm (1½ in) from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. (About 12–14 rows.)

The cast-on edge is the finished neck. Do not pick up a neckband later.

Short-row back-neck shaping

Change to 4 mm needle. Begin stocking stitch.

Set-up row (RS): Knit to the 3rd marker (end of Back), sm, k6 (8, 8, 10, 10) Left Sleeve sts, turn.

Make DS: slip the next st purlwise wyif, bring the yarn over the right needle to the back, creating a double stitch. The DS counts as one stitch.

Set-up row (WS): Purl to the next marker (start of Back as seen from the WS), sm, p6 (8, 8, 10, 10) Right Sleeve sts, turn, make DS.

Short-row pair: RS: Knit to the DS, knit both legs of the DS together, k4, turn, make DS. WS: Purl to the DS, purl both legs of the DS together, p4, turn, make DS.

Work this pair 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) more times — 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) pairs in total after the set-up, counting the set-up as the first turn on each side.

Next row (RS): Knit to end, working any rem DS as one stitch. Next row (WS): Purl to end, working any rem DS as one stitch.

Stitch count is unchanged: 98 (106, 114, 122, 130) sts. The back neck now sits approximately 2 (2, 2.5, 2.5, 2.5) cm higher than the front.

Yoke — raglan increases

Two raglan increase rows are used.

Raglan Inc Row, RS (all 4 raglans — 8 sts increased): *Work in st st to 1 st before marker, m1l, k1, sm, k1, m1r; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. (8 sts inc ✓)

Raglan Inc Row, WS (all 4 raglans — 8 sts increased): *Work in st st to 1 st before marker, m1lp, p1, sm, p1, m1rp; rep from * 3 more times, work to end. (8 sts inc ✓)

Body-only Inc Row, RS (4 sts increased): Knit to 1 st before 1st marker, m1l, k1, sm, k1 (no sleeve inc), knit to 1 st before 2nd marker, k1, sm, k1, m1r, knit to 1 st before 3rd marker, m1l, k1, sm, k1 (no sleeve inc), knit to 1 st before 4th marker, k1, sm, k1, m1r, knit to end. (Right Front +1, Back +2, Left Front +1 = 4 sts inc ✓)

Phase A — increase every row, all raglans

Work Raglan Inc Row RS, then Raglan Inc Row WS. Rep these 2 rows 3 (3, 5, 5, 8) times in total.

6 (6, 10, 10, 16) increase rows worked.
Sts inc: 6×8=48 (6×8=48, 10×8=80, 10×8=80, 16×8=128) ✓
146 (154, 194, 202, 258) sts.

Distribution:

• Fronts: 20 (20, 26, 26, 34) each
• Sleeves: 28 (30, 38, 40, 54) each
• Back: 50 (54, 66, 70, 82)
• Check S: 20+28+50+28+20 = 146 ✓

Phase B — increase every RS row, all raglans

Next row (RS): Raglan Inc Row, RS. Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Rep these 2 rows 18 (20, 19, 21, 18) more times — 19 (21, 20, 22, 19) RS increase rows in this phase.

Sts inc: 19×8=152 (21×8=168, 20×8=160, 22×8=176, 19×8=152) ✓
298 (322, 354, 378, 410) sts. (146+152=298 ✓; 154+168=322 ✓; 194+160=354 ✓; 202+176=378 ✓; 258+152=410 ✓)

Distribution:

• Fronts: 39 (41, 46, 48, 53) each
• Sleeves: 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) each
• Back: 88 (96, 106, 114, 120)
• Check M: 41+72+96+72+41 = 322 ✓

Phase C — increase every RS row, body only

Next row (RS): Body-only Inc Row. Next row (WS): Purl, slipping markers.

Rep these 2 rows 7 (8, 9, 10, 12) more times — 8 (9, 10, 11, 13) body-only RS increase rows.

Sts inc: 8×4=32 (9×4=36, 10×4=40, 11×4=44, 13×4=52) ✓
330 (358, 394, 422, 462) sts. (298+32=330 ✓; 322+36=358 ✓; 354+40=394 ✓; 378+44=422 ✓; 410+52=462 ✓)

Yoke at divide:

• Right Front 47 (50, 56, 59, 66)
• Right Sleeve 66 (72, 78, 84, 92)
• Back 104 (114, 126, 136, 146)
• Left Sleeve 66 (72, 78, 84, 92)
• Left Front 47 (50, 56, 59, 66)

Check S: 47+66+104+66+47 = 330 ✓
Check 2XL: 66+92+146+92+66 = 462 ✓

The front raglan, measured from the top of the stocking-stitch yoke (base of the neckband) to the needle, should meas approximately 20 (22, 23.5, 25.5, 26.5) cm. If it is short of this, work even in st st (no increases) to length, ending with a WS row. If it is already at length, proceed.

Divide body and sleeves

Divide row (RS): Knit 47 (50, 56, 59, 66) Right Front sts, rm, slip the next 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) Right Sleeve sts to waste yarn, rm, using the backward-loop (or cable) method cast on 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, knit 104 (114, 126, 136, 146) Back sts, rm, slip the next 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) Left Sleeve sts to waste yarn, rm, cast on 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, knit 47 (50, 56, 59, 66) Left Front sts.

Body sts: 47+8+104+8+47 = 214 ✓ · 50+10+114+10+50 = 234 ✓ · 56+10+126+10+56 = 258 ✓ · 59+12+136+12+59 = 278 ✓ · 66+12+146+12+66 = 302 ✓

Next row (WS): Purl. Optionally place a side marker at the centre of each underarm (after 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) of the new sts) to mark the “side seams”.

Body

Cont even in st st (knit RS, purl WS) until the body meas 35 (36, 37, 38, 39) cm from the underarm divide, ending with a WS row.

Hem

Change to 3.5 mm needle.

Row 1 (RS): k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

(214, 234, 258, 278, 302 all = multiple of 4 + 2, so the rib begins and ends with k2 on RS ✓)

Cont in 2×2 rib until the hem meas 5 cm (2 in). Cast off loosely in rib.

Body from underarm, including hem: 40 (41, 42, 43, 44) cm.

Sleeves

Both sleeves are worked the same.

Return the 66 (72, 78, 84, 92) held sleeve sts to 4 mm needle. With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the centre of the underarm. Pick up and knit 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts from the underarm cast-on, placing 1 unique marker at the centre of the underarm to mark the beginning of the rnd, then knit across the held sts. Pick up 1 extra st in each underarm corner if a hole appears — decrease these extras away on the next rnd with k2tog so that you start the sleeve with 74 (82, 88, 96, 104) sts.

74 (82, 88, 96, 104) sts. (66+8=74 ✓; 72+10=82 ✓; 78+10=88 ✓; 84+12=96 ✓; 92+12=104 ✓)

Knit 4 rnds even.

Dec rnd: k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1. (2 sts dec)

Work the Dec rnd every 7th (6th, 6th, 5th, 5th) rnd 14 (16, 19, 21, 25) more times — 15 (17, 20, 22, 26) decrease rnds in total.

Sts rem: 74−30=44 ✓ · 82−34=48 ✓ · 88−40=48 ✓ · 96−44=52 ✓ · 104−52=52 ✓

Cont even (if needed) until the sleeve meas 40 (41, 42, 42, 43) cm from the underarm.

Cuff

Change to 3.5 mm needle. If you are not already on a multiple of 4, decrease 0–2 sts evenly on the first rib rnd.

Rnd 1: *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Cont in 2×2 rib for 5 cm (2 in). Cast off loosely in rib.

Total sleeve from underarm: 45 (46, 47, 47, 48) cm.

Work the second sleeve to match.

Button bands

Bands are picked up along the front edges only. The neck is already finished.

Pick up at a rate of 3 sts for every 4 rows, skipping the 4th row. Aim for the counts below; if you are 1–3 sts out, increase or decrease evenly on the first rib row so the count is a multiple of 4 + 2.

Right Front band (buttonholes — as worn)

With 3.5 mm needle, RS facing, and beginning at the hem of the Right Front, pick up and knit 142 (146, 150, 158, 162) sts evenly along the front edge to the cast-on of the neckband.

Row 1 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Row 2 (RS): k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

Work 3 more rows in rib as set, ending with a WS row (5 rows in total).

Buttonhole row (RS): Work in rib, placing 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) 1-row buttonholes (yo, k2tog) as follows. If a yo, k2tog falls where the rib expects purl stitches, work yo, p2tog instead so the rib columns continue.

• S (142 sts, 6 holes): k5, [yo, k2tog, work 24 sts in rib] 5 times, yo, k2tog, k5.
  (5 + 5×26 + 2 + 5 = 142 ✓)
• M (146 sts, 6 holes): k7, [yo, k2tog, work 24 sts in rib] 5 times, yo, k2tog, k7.
  (7 + 5×26 + 2 + 7 = 146 ✓)
• L (150 sts, 7 holes): k5, [yo, k2tog, work 21 sts in rib] 6 times, yo, k2tog, k5.
  (5 + 6×23 + 2 + 5 = 150 ✓)
• XL (158 sts, 7 holes): k6, [yo, k2tog, work 22 sts in rib] 6 times, yo, k2tog, k6.
  (6 + 6×24 + 2 + 6 = 158 ✓)
• 2XL (162 sts, 7 holes): k8, [yo, k2tog, work 22 sts in rib] 6 times, yo, k2tog, k8.
  (8 + 6×24 + 2 + 8 = 162 ✓)

Cont in rib until the band meas 3.5 cm (1½ in) from the pick-up (about 12 rows in total). Cast off loosely in rib.

Left Front band

With 3.5 mm needle, RS facing, and beginning at the cast-on of the neckband of the Left Front, pick up and knit 142 (146, 150, 158, 162) sts evenly along the front edge to the hem.

Work in 2×2 rib as for the Right Front, omitting buttonholes, for 3.5 cm (1½ in). Cast off loosely in rib.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends, using ends at the underarms to close any remaining gaps.
2. Wet-block the cardigan to the finished measurements. Pin the body and sleeves to size; do not stretch the neckband, hem, cuffs or button bands. Cotton grows — block to measurements, not beyond them. Dry completely before unpinning.
3. Sew 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes.
4. If the neckband edge is the least bit tight, steam it very lightly from the WS without flattening the rib.

Schematic (key dimensions)

              neckband 3.5 cm
         ┌──── back neck 17.5–22.5 cm ────┐
        ╱    raglan     ·     raglan      ╲
       ╱                                  ╲
      │     yoke (front) 20–26.5 cm        │
      │                                    │
   ───┤ underarm          underarm         ├── sleeve
      │  8–12 sts          8–12 sts        │   45–48 cm
      │                                    │   upper arm 33.5–47.5 cm
      │     body 40–44 cm from underarm    │
      │                                    │
      └──────── bust 97–137.5 cm ──────────┘
                    hem 5 cm

Technical editor’s checklist (for the knitter)

• After the neckband: 98 (106, 114, 122, 130) sts ✓
• After Phase A: 146 (154, 194, 202, 258) sts ✓
• After Phase B: 298 (322, 354, 378, 410) sts ✓
• After Phase C / at divide: 330 (358, 394, 422, 462) sts ✓
• Body after underarm cast-on: 214 (234, 258, 278, 302) sts ✓
• Each sleeve at start: 74 (82, 88, 96, 104) sts ✓
• Each cuff: 44 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts ✓

Work a tension swatch. Count after every phase. Cotton DK rewards a slightly firm fabric — if in doubt, go down 0.5 mm for the body rather than up.