Dropped-Shoulder Shawl-Collar Cardigan

A relaxed, hip-length cardigan in DK yarn with dropped shoulders, integrated 1×1 rib details and a short-row shawl collar. Worked flat in pieces and seamed. Approximately 18–22 cm positive ease.

Materials

Yarn: DK weight (approx. 120 m / 50 g). Wool or wool-mix recommended.

• Metreage: 1100 (1200, 1350, 1500, 1650, 1850, 2000, 2200, 2400) m
• 50 g balls at 120 m: 10 (10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20) balls

Needles

• 3.5 mm needles for rib
• 4 mm needles for stocking stitch
• 4 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm, for picking up the collar (worked flat)

Notions

• 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) buttons, 18–20 mm
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Spare 3.5 mm needle for picking up

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking. 1×1 rib on 3.5 mm needles measures approximately 26 sts = 10 cm (unstretched).

Check your tension and change needle size if needed. Fit depends on it.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

To fit bust: 76 (86, 96, 106, 117, 127, 137, 147, 157) cm [30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62) in]

Finished bust (buttoned): 96.5 (107.5, 118, 129, 140, 151, 162, 173, 183.5) cm [38 (42¼, 46½, 50¾, 55, 59½, 63¾, 68, 72¼) in]

Finished length from shoulder: 60 (61, 63, 64, 66, 67, 69, 70, 72) cm

Armhole depth: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) cm

Sleeve length to underarm: 45 (45, 45, 46, 46, 46, 47, 47, 47) cm

Upper sleeve width: 40 (41.5, 43.5, 46.5, 48, 51, 52.5, 55.5, 57.5) cm

Shown with approximately 20 cm ease. Choose the size closest to your bust plus the ease you prefer.

Abbreviations

• st(s) — stitch(es)
• k — knit
• p — purl
• RS / WS — right side / wrong side
• st st — stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS)
• rib — 1×1 rib (k1, p1) as set
• k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, insert left needle into the fronts and k2tog tbl)
• m1L — make 1 left (lift the bar between sts from front to back, k through the back loop)
• m1R — make 1 right (lift the bar between sts from back to front, k through the front loop)
• yo — yarn over
• w&t — wrap and turn (see Pattern notes)
• pm / sm — place marker / slip marker
• rem — remaining
• rep — repeat
• foll — following
• beg — beginning
• tbl — through back loop
• cast off — bind off

Pattern notes

• UK English; measurements in centimetres with inches in brackets.
• Worked flat. A circular needle is used only to hold the large collar pick-up; the collar itself is worked flat.
• Selvedge: knit the first and last stitch of every stocking-stitch row for a firm seaming edge.
• w&t (wrap and turn): on a knit row, slip the next st purlwise, bring yarn to front, return the st to the left needle, turn. On a purl row, slip the next st purlwise, bring yarn to back, return the st, turn. On the following complete row, work the wrap together with its stitch (knit or purl as the rib requires) to hide it.
• When two shapings happen at once (armhole and neck), read the whole section before you start.
• Buttonholes sit on the Right Front as worn (women’s buttoning).
• Block the pieces before seaming; rib will relax.

Back

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on 106 (118, 130, 142, 154, 166, 178, 190, 202) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Rib row 2 (WS): *K1, p1; rep from * to end. These 2 rows set 1×1 rib. Continue until rib measures 5 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles. Starting with a k row, work in st st (with selvedge as in Notes) until the Back measures 40 (40, 41, 41, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows. 98 (110, 120, 132, 142, 154, 164, 176, 186) sts. (106 − 4 − 4 = 98 ✓; 118 − 8 = 110 ✓; 130 − 10 = 120 ✓; 142 − 10 = 132 ✓; 154 − 12 = 142 ✓; 166 − 12 = 154 ✓; 178 − 14 = 164 ✓; 190 − 14 = 176 ✓; 202 − 16 = 186 ✓)

Work even in st st until the armhole measures 18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape back neck and shoulders

Next row (RS): K 32 (36, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54, 58, 61) sts, cast off the centre 34 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64) sts, k to end. (32 + 34 + 32 = 98 ✓; 36 + 38 + 36 = 110 ✓; 40 + 40 + 40 = 120 ✓; 44 + 44 + 44 = 132 ✓; 47 + 48 + 47 = 142 ✓; 51 + 52 + 51 = 154 ✓; 54 + 56 + 54 = 164 ✓; 58 + 60 + 58 = 176 ✓; 61 + 64 + 61 = 186 ✓)

Work each side separately. Join a second ball of yarn for the left shoulder (as worn).

Right shoulder (as worn) — this is the first set of sts you just knitted:

• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (neck edge decrease)
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, k to end.
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off rem 10 (12, 14, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts. (11 + 11 + 10 = 32 ✓; 12 + 12 + 12 = 36 ✓; 13 + 13 + 14 = 40 ✓; 15 + 15 + 14 = 44 ✓; 16 + 16 + 15 = 47 ✓; 17 + 17 + 17 = 51 ✓; 18 + 18 + 18 = 54 ✓; 19 + 19 + 20 = 58 ✓; 20 + 20 + 21 = 61 ✓)

Left shoulder (as worn): With WS facing, rejoin yarn at the neck edge.

• WS: Cast off 1 st (neck), p to end. (one extra neck decrease to match the right side)
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, p to end.
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, p to end.
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off rem 10 (12, 14, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts.

Left Front (as worn)

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on 53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83, 89, 95, 101) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Rib row 2 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Continue in 1×1 rib until the rib measures 5 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles. Starting with a k row, work in st st until the Front matches the Back to the armhole, 40 (40, 41, 41, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole and neck

Read this whole section before continuing — both shapings run at the same time.

Armhole (side edge = beg of WS rows): Next row (RS): Knit. Next row (WS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts, p to end. 49 (55, 60, 66, 71, 77, 82, 88, 93) sts. (53 − 4 = 49 ✓; 59 − 4 = 55 ✓; 65 − 5 = 60 ✓; 71 − 5 = 66 ✓; 77 − 6 = 71 ✓; 83 − 6 = 77 ✓; 89 − 7 = 82 ✓; 95 − 7 = 88 ✓; 101 − 8 = 93 ✓)

Neck (centre-front edge = end of RS rows), starting on the next RS row: Decrease 1 st at the neck edge on this RS row and every RS row until 32 (36, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54, 58, 61) sts rem, as follows:

• RS neck decrease: K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS: Purl.

You will work 17 (19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) neck decreases. (49 − 17 = 32 ✓; 55 − 19 = 36 ✓; 60 − 20 = 40 ✓; 66 − 22 = 44 ✓; 71 − 24 = 47 ✓; 77 − 26 = 51 ✓; 82 − 28 = 54 ✓; 88 − 30 = 58 ✓; 93 − 32 = 61 ✓)

Once the shoulder count is reached, work even in st st on these sts until the armhole matches the Back to the start of shoulder shaping 18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26) cm, ending with a RS row (so the next row is WS, ready to cast off at the armhole edge).

Shape shoulder

Cast off at the armhole edge (beg of WS rows) to match the Back:

• WS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, p to end.
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, p to end.
• RS: Knit.
• WS: Cast off rem 10 (12, 14, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts.

Place a locking marker at the centre-front edge on the row where the first neck decrease was worked — you will need it when picking up the button band.

Right Front (as worn)

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on 53 (59, 65, 71, 77, 83, 89, 95, 101) sts.

Work the 5 cm of 1×1 rib as for the Left Front.

Change to 4 mm needles and work in st st until the Front measures 40 (40, 41, 41, 42, 42, 43, 43, 44) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole and neck

Armhole (side edge = beg of RS rows) and neck (centre-front edge = beg of RS rows) start together.

Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (armhole cast-off and first neck decrease on the same row) 48 (54, 59, 65, 70, 76, 81, 87, 92) sts. (53 − 4 − 1 = 48 ✓)

Next row (WS): Purl.

Continue: decrease 1 st at the neck edge every RS row until 32 (36, 40, 44, 47, 51, 54, 58, 61) sts rem:

• RS neck decrease (after the armhole is already cast off): K1, ssk, k to end.
• WS: Purl.

You will work 16 (18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31) further neck decreases after that first one, for a total of 17 (19, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) neck decreases including the first. (48 − 16 = 32 ✓; 54 − 18 = 36 ✓; 59 − 19 = 40 ✓; 65 − 21 = 44 ✓; 70 − 23 = 47 ✓; 76 − 25 = 51 ✓; 81 − 27 = 54 ✓; 87 − 29 = 58 ✓; 92 − 31 = 61 ✓)

Work even until the armhole matches the Back to the start of shoulder shaping, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulder

Cast off at the armhole edge (beg of RS rows):

• RS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, k to end.
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off 11 (12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) sts, k to end.
• WS: Purl.
• RS: Cast off rem 10 (12, 14, 14, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21) sts.

Mark the centre-front edge on the row of the first neck decrease, as for the Left Front.

Sleeves (make 2)

With 3.5 mm needles, cast on 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 64, 66, 70) sts.

Work 6 cm in 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; rep from * to end), ending with a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles. Starting with a k row, work 4 rows in st st.

Increase row (RS): K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. (2 sts increased)

Work 5 (5, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) rows even.

Rep the last 6 (6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) rows — i.e. increase every 6th (6th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) row — until you have 88 (92, 96, 102, 106, 112, 116, 122, 126) sts. Increases each side: 19 (20, 21, 23, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28). (50 + 19 + 19 = 88 ✓; 52 + 40 = 92 ✓; 54 + 42 = 96 ✓; 56 + 46 = 102 ✓; 58 + 48 = 106 ✓; 60 + 52 = 112 ✓; 64 + 52 = 116 ✓; 66 + 56 = 122 ✓; 70 + 56 = 126 ✓)

Work even until the Sleeve measures 45 (45, 45, 46, 46, 46, 47, 47, 47) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Next 2 rows: Cast off 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts at the beg of each row. 80 (84, 86, 92, 94, 100, 102, 108, 110) sts. (88 − 8 = 80 ✓; 92 − 8 = 84 ✓; 96 − 10 = 86 ✓; 102 − 10 = 92 ✓; 106 − 12 = 94 ✓; 112 − 12 = 100 ✓; 116 − 14 = 102 ✓; 122 − 14 = 108 ✓; 126 − 16 = 110 ✓)

Work 4 rows even. Cast off rem sts.

The cast-off edge (plus the small underarm steps) is sewn to the armhole. Width of the sleeve top is 40 (41.5, 43.5, 46.5, 48, 51, 52.5, 55.5, 57.5) cm, matching 2 × armhole depth.

Making up

Block all pieces to the schematic measurements. Allow to dry fully.

Shoulders: Join the Front shoulders to the Back shoulders with mattress stitch (or backstitch just inside the cast-off edge).

Sleeves: Set each sleeve into its armhole, matching the underarm cast-offs and easing the sleeve top along the armhole edge. The dropped shoulder sits at the edge of the body; there is no set-in cap. Sew with mattress stitch.

Side and sleeve seams: Join the side seams from hem to underarm and the sleeve seams from cuff to underarm, in one continuous mattress-stitch line where possible. Match the rib sections carefully.

Button bands

Left Front band (button band — buttons sewn on later)

With RS facing, 3.5 mm needles and starting at the Left Front neck marker (first neck decrease), pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows down the centre-front edge to the cast-on, then 1 st in the corner of the hem. Aim for 88 (88, 90, 90, 92, 92, 94, 94, 96) sts, adjusting by 1 st if needed so the total is even.

Work 11 rows of 1×1 rib, beginning with a WS row (p1, k1 across). Cast off in rib.

The band should measure approximately 3.5–4 cm wide.

Right Front band (buttonhole band)

With RS facing, 3.5 mm needles and starting at the Right Front hem, pick up and knit the same number of sts as the Left Front band, up to the neck marker.

Work 4 rows of 1×1 rib, beginning with a WS row.

Buttonhole row (RS): Make 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8) buttonholes, evenly spaced from 1.5 cm above the hem to 1.5 cm below the neck marker. For each hole, work (yo, k2tog) on two knit-facing rib stitches (if a hole would fall on a purl column, shift it by 1 st). Work in rib as set between holes.

Work 6 more rows of 1×1 rib (11 rows total, to match the Left band). Cast off in rib.

Shawl collar

With RS facing, 3.5 mm circular needle (used flat) and starting at the top of the Right Front buttonhole band (at the neck marker):

1. Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along the Right Front neck slope to the shoulder seam.
2. Pick up and knit 1 st per cast-off st across the Back neck, plus 2 extra sts at each corner of the neck (to prevent holes) — 38 (42, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68) sts across the Back neck including corners.
3. Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows down the Left Front neck slope to the top of the Left Front button band.

Target total (odd number, so the rib is symmetrical with a k st at each end): 121 (129, 135, 147, 155, 167, 175, 187, 195) sts.

If you are 1 st out, inc or dec on the first row at the centre back. Place markers:

• M1 after the Right Front slope sts (right shoulder).
• M2 after the Back neck sts (left shoulder).

Set-up row (WS): *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1. This sets 1×1 rib beginning and ending with a knit column on the RS.

Short-row shaping

The short rows add extra depth at the Back neck so the collar stands and folds like a shawl. Always work in the 1×1 rib as set. Hide each wrap on the first pass back over it.

Short row 1 (RS): Rib to M2, sm, rib 6 sts, w&t. Short row 2 (WS): Rib to M1, sm, rib 6 sts, w&t. Short row 3 (RS): Rib to 6 sts past the previous wrap, w&t. Short row 4 (WS): Rib to 6 sts past the previous wrap, w&t.

Rep Short rows 3 and 4 until you have wrapped a stitch 4 sts or fewer from each end of the needle. Do not worry if the last step on one side is 4 sts rather than 6 — stop when fewer than 6 sts remain unworked at that end.

Next row (RS): Rib to the end of the needle, hiding any rem wraps. Next row (WS): Rib to the end, hiding any rem wraps.

Work even in 1×1 rib on all sts until the collar measures 8 cm at the front edges (the shortest points, next to the button bands). The centre back will be about 6–8 cm deeper because of the short rows.

Cast off loosely in rib. A larger needle (4 mm) for the cast-off helps the edge stay elastic so the collar folds without flaring.

Finishing

• Weave in all ends.
• Sew the short side edges of the collar to the top edges of the button bands, with the collar sitting on top of the band ends so the join is hidden when the collar is folded.
• Sew the buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes.
• Steam or lightly press the seams (avoid flattening the rib). Fold the shawl collar to the outside and steam the fold if you want it to sit permanently; otherwise leave it to fold naturally in wear.

Schematic (finished measurements)

• Bust (buttoned): 96.5 (107.5, 118, 129, 140, 151, 162, 173, 183.5) cm
• Back width: 48 (53.5, 59, 64.5, 70, 75.5, 81, 86.5, 92) cm
• Length: 60 (61, 63, 64, 66, 67, 69, 70, 72) cm
• Armhole depth: 20 (21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28) cm
• Sleeve length: 45 (45, 45, 46, 46, 46, 47, 47, 47) cm
• Upper sleeve: 40 (41.5, 43.5, 46.5, 48, 51, 52.5, 55.5, 57.5) cm
• Cuff: 23 (24, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27, 29, 30, 32) cm
• Button-band width: 3.5–4 cm
• Collar depth at centre back (unfolded): approximately 14–16 cm

Wear the collar folded back along the short-row fullness; the fronts button closed beneath it.