purlJam

# Openwork Off-Shoulder Cardigan
### A Classic Crochet Kimono — Beginner Friendly

A relaxed, airy cardigan worked in a simple openwork mesh. Built from five flat rectangles in true kimono (T-shape) construction — no fiddly shaping. The wide neckline and dropped shoulders let the soft sleeves sit gently off the shoulder for an easy, romantic look. Perfect for layering over a vest top in warmer months.

*Terminology: UK crochet terms are used throughout (tr = US dc, dc = US sc, htr = US hdc). Measurements are given in centimetres first, with inches in parentheses.*

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## SKILL LEVEL
Beginner — straight rectangles, one easy repeating mesh stitch, simple seaming.

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## SIZES

| Size | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|------|-----|------|---------|
| To fit bust | 81–96 cm (32–38") | 101–117 cm (40–46") | 122–137 cm (48–54") |

This is an **oversized, boxy** garment with generous positive ease. Choose by desired drape rather than exact bust. Instructions are written for **S/M**, with **L/XL** and **2XL/3XL** in brackets, e.g. 45 (54, 63).

### Finished Measurements
| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|-------------|-----|------|---------|
| Bust (buttoned/closed, approx.) | 112 cm (44") | 135 cm (53") | 157 cm (62") |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 60 cm (23½") | 60 cm (23½") | 65 cm (25½") |
| Sleeve width (flat) | 40 cm (15¾") | 40 cm (15¾") | 44 cm (17¼") |
| Sleeve length (shoulder seam to cuff) | 30 cm (11¾") | 32 cm (12½") | 32 cm (12½") |

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran/Medium #4). A drapey cotton, bamboo, or cotton blend is recommended for the best openwork drape.
- **Approx. yardage:** 1000 (1250, 1500) m / 1095 (1370, 1640) yds.
- **Hook:** 5 mm (UK metric — recommended) for the main fabric; 4.5 mm for edging.
- **Notions:** Tapestry/yarn needle, stitch markers, scissors. Optional: 2 small buttons or a length of fabric/yarn for a tie closure.

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## TENSION (GAUGE)
Worked in mesh pattern, blocked, on a 5 mm hook:
- **16 mesh squares × 16 rows = 10 × 10 cm (4 × 4")**
- **1 mesh square = 1 tr + ch 1 ≈ 1.25 cm (½") wide**

*Tension is forgiving on this relaxed fit, but check it — mesh grows when blocked. Make a swatch at least 15 cm square, block it, then measure.*

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## STITCH PATTERN: SIMPLE MESH
Worked over a multiple of **2 stitches + 1**, plus turning chain.

**Set-up (worked into foundation):** 1 tr in 5th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch*; repeat to end.

**Mesh Row (repeated):** Ch 4 (counts as 1 tr + ch 1), turn. Skip first ch-1 space, 1 tr in next tr, *ch 1, 1 tr in next tr*; repeat across, working last tr into the top of the turning chain.

This creates a neat grid of square holes — your openwork.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (UK)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet (US sc)
- htr = half treble (US hdc)
- tr = treble (US dc)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS / WS = right side / wrong side
- rep = repeat

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# THE PIECES

> **Construction note:** All five pieces are plain rectangles. There is **no armhole shaping, no sleeve tapering, and no shoulder shaping** — this is what gives the kimono its T-shape and off-shoulder drape. Work in rows, turning at the end of each row.

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## BACK (make 1)

Target width: 56 cm = **45 mesh squares**.
Each square uses 2 ch in the foundation; 45 squares = 90 ch, +1 for the final tr, +3 to begin the first tr.

**Foundation:** Ch **94 (112, 130)**.
*(Math check S/M: 45 squares × 2 = 90; +1 final st = 91; +3 turning allowance = 94. ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** 1 tr in 5th ch from hook (the skipped 4 ch count as tr + ch 1). *Ch 1, skip 1 ch, 1 tr in next ch*; rep to end. → **45 (54, 63) tr** with mesh spaces between.

**Rows 2 onward:** Work **Mesh Row** until piece measures **60 (60, 65) cm** from foundation — approx. **96 (96, 104) rows**.

Fasten off. Set aside.

*Check: 96 rows ÷ 16 rows per 10 cm = 60 cm. ✓*

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## LEFT FRONT (make 1)

Target width: 27.5 cm = **22 mesh squares**.

**Foundation:** Ch **48 (58, 66)**.
*(Math check S/M: 22 squares × 2 = 44; +1 = 45; +3 = 48. ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** Work as Back Row 1. → **22 (27, 31) tr**.

**Rows 2 onward:** Work **Mesh Row** until piece measures **60 (60, 65) cm** — same row count as Back, approx. **96 (96, 104) rows**.

Fasten off.

> **Off-shoulder note:** The front neck edge is left **straight** (no neck decreases). Keeping the neckline wide and shallow is exactly what allows the finished cardigan to slide gently off the shoulders. Do not shape the neck.

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## RIGHT FRONT (make 1)

Work exactly as **Left Front**.

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

Wide, **untapered** rectangles — the same width top to bottom.

Target width: 40 (40, 44) cm = **32 (32, 35) mesh squares**.

**Foundation:** Ch **68 (68, 74)**.
*(Math check S/M: 32 squares × 2 = 64; +1 = 65; +3 = 68. ✓)*

**Row 1 (RS):** Work as Back Row 1. → **32 (32, 35) tr**.

**Rows 2 onward:** Work **Mesh Row** until sleeve measures **30 (32, 32) cm** — approx. **48 (51, 51) rows**.

Fasten off. Make a second sleeve the same.

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# ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces first (see Blocking) — this opens the mesh and makes seaming easier and more even. Use mattress stitch or a slip-stitch seam with your tapestry needle.

### 1. Shoulder seams (straight, horizontal)
Lay the Back flat (RS up). Place a Front piece RS up beside it, top edges aligned.
- From each outer top corner of the Back, measure **15 cm (6")** inward and mark — this is the shoulder seam length.
- Seam each Front to the Back along this 15 cm shoulder line on both shoulders.
- The remaining **26 cm (10¼")** gap across the top centre of the Back, plus the open front top edges, forms the **wide off-shoulder neckline**.

*Check S/M: Back top = 56 cm. Two shoulders × 15 cm = 30 cm seamed; 56 − 30 = 26 cm neck opening. ✓*

### 2. Attach sleeves (perpendicular — the T-shape)
Find the shoulder seam point on each side. Centre the top edge of a Sleeve over the side edge of the body, aligning the **middle of the sleeve** with the shoulder seam. The sleeve attaches at a **right angle** to the body (dropped shoulder).
- Sew the top edge of the sleeve to the body side edge, working **20 cm (8")** down from the shoulder seam on the Front side and **20 cm (8")** down on the Back side — a total sleeve seam opening of **40 cm (15¾")**, matching the sleeve width. ✓
- Repeat for the second sleeve.

### 3. Side and sleeve seams
In one continuous line on each side:
- Seam the **sleeve underarm** from cuff to underarm point.
- Continue down the **body side seam** from underarm to hem.
- Leave the lower body open if a side vent is desired (optional — stop 8 cm above the hem).

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# EDGING

With the 4.5 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at the bottom of the Right Front.

**Round/Pass 1 (dc border):** Work an even row of **dc** up the Right Front, around the back neck, down the Left Front, and along the hem if desired. Work approximately **3 dc per 4 rows** along vertical edges and **1 dc per st** along horizontal edges, keeping the edge flat (do not pucker or flare).

**Round/Pass 2 (optional crab stitch):** Work **reverse dc (crab stitch)** along the same edge for a neat corded finish. Fasten off and weave in ends.

**Cuffs:** Work 1 round of **dc** evenly around each cuff edge, then a round of reverse dc if desired.

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# CLOSURE (optional)

This cardigan is designed to be worn **open** for the off-shoulder drape. If you'd like a closure:
- **Tie:** Make two chains 30 cm long; attach one to each front edge at mid-bust level and tie.
- **Buttons:** Sew 1–2 small buttons to one front; the open mesh squares act as ready-made buttonholes opposite.

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# BLOCKING (IMPORTANT)

Mesh stitch looks its best blocked.
1. Wet or steam-block each piece (or the finished garment) to the finished measurements above.
2. Gently open out each mesh square into an even grid, pinning to shape.
3. Allow to dry fully before wearing. Re-block after washing.

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# QUICK REFERENCE — PIECE SUMMARY (S/M)

| Piece | Foundation ch | Width | Length | Approx. rows |
|-------|--------------|-------|--------|--------------|
| Back | 94 | 56 cm | 60 cm | 96 |
| Left Front | 48 | 27.5 cm | 60 cm | 96 |
| Right Front | 48 | 27.5 cm | 60 cm | 96 |
| Sleeve ×2 | 68 | 40 cm | 30 cm | 48 |

**Final bust check:** Back 56 cm + Left Front 27.5 cm + Right Front 27.5 cm = **111 cm ≈ 112 cm finished bust.** ✓

Enjoy your airy, off-shoulder kimono cardigan — relaxed, beginner-friendly, and made to drape beautifully.